Mopar Auxiliary Switch System Sport/Sport S/Sahara Jeep Wrangler JL 2018-2021/Jeep Gladiator 2020-2021

Mopar:
82215190
Rating:
80% of 100

Highlights

  • Connects Through Uconnect
  • Power Distribution Center
  • Wiring Harness Included
  • Direct Fit
MSRP $423.49
$410.79
You save $12.70

Mopar Auxiliary Switch System for 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021 Sport, Sport S and Sahara Jeep JL Wranglers and 2020-2021 Gladiators.

Did your 2018-2021 Sport, Sport S or Sahara Jeep JL Wrangler or 2020-2021 Jeep Gladiator not come with the auxiliary switch system? Not to worry, CJ Pony Parts has you covered with this Auxiliary Switch System (82215190) from Mopar! This kit will include everything that you will need to install the auxiliary switch system in your Sport, Sport S or Sahara Jeep JL Wrangler or Jeep Gladiator. This system is designed to allow you to connect up to 4 accessories to the power distribution center. Featuring a black trim ring, the switch panel and cubby bin will fit right in with your rig’s interior.

* Your local dealership will need to flash the computer for the auxiliary switches to work properly with your Uconnect system.

Please Note: This Mopar Auxiliary Switch system is not designed to work on 2018-2020 Wrangler JL Rubicon’s. The Rubicon features a silver switch bezel and switches for differential lockers and sway bar disconnect are located in place of the included storage bin.

Includes:
- Black Switch Bank Trim
- Switches
- Power Distribution Center
- Bracket
- Wiring Harness
- Cubby Bin
- Tie Straps
- Splice Kit

For eight decades, the name ‘Mopar’ has been synonymous with quality and reliable auto parts. Mopar is an industry leader in producing some of the finest parts and accessories on the market for a number of widely-recognized vehicles, including Dodge Rams, and Jeep Wranglers among others.

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

Today on CJ Off-road, we're going to show you how to power electrical accessories on your JL Wrangler.

If you're looking to add electrical accessories to your brand new Jeep Wrangler and want to give it that factory look, then today we're going to be installing this Mopar Auxiliary Switch Bank, fitting your brand new 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler Sport or Sierra model.

This Mopar Auxiliary Switch Bank features four auxiliary switches and factory looking wiring that bolts directly on to your 2018 JL. Features a blank switch trim, all four buttons, all the brackets, everything needed to get it on. This kit is going to give you a nice factory looking switch option. With that being said, let's get it installed.

Tools needed for this installation: Trim removal tool. A pair of cutters. 1/4" ratchet. 5.5mm deep socket. 10mm deep socket. 13mm socket. A small pair of pliers. Plastic trim panel removal tool. A small flathead screwdriver. Medium-sized pick. Phillips head screwdriver. Electrical Tape and a rivet installation tool.

The first step of this installation is actually a little bit strange to me. You have to go to your passenger side fender weld and we're going to pull off the inner liner. They actually come with the new rivets, let's pull the tabs and get those rivets cut, and get started.

You're at your passenger side fender and you're going to start by removing these four rivets that go along the bottom side. Kit does include new rivets, so just pop them out a little bit and then we can come with a pair of snips and just trim them right off. Helps to just pop them out, that way you have some access to the back.

As you can see, we do already have the Mopar front splash guards installed. They have the same two rivets that hold them on. Just go on the inside of those, pop them out a little bit, and we can cut them just like the top. After all four of the outer rivets are removed, you're going to go to the inside, there's two push pins. Grab a flathead screwdriver, pop the inside of the push pin out towards you.

In our case, the pin wanted to stay in. As long as it's free from that inner liner, it's good to go. We'll work on this next one here. We did take our front splash guard off. It had an extra rivet that was preventing us from pulling the inner liner out, so we pulled that off and now we're ready to pull it off. We're just going to pull it, start from the bottom, work all the way up to the top. I'm going to tuck it behind the tire here, as far as I can. That'll give us access to the electrical connection bulkhead, which is where we're going to be next.

Once this is pulled back, you'll have access to the electrical bulkhead back there. That's where we're going to be next. One of the most important things to remember when you're adding electrical accessories to your Jeep or any other vehicle, is to make sure you're working on a safe platform. We're going to disconnect the grounds, that way we have no power going to any of the electrical connections we're going to be working with in the future.

There are going to be two ground isolators right here. They're on the inside of the fender well right by the battery. There's a 10mm bolt here, and then a 13mm bolt there. We're going to start by removing the 10. Change your socket out to a 13, then remove this bolt.

Take this connection bracket and pull it towards the inside of the vehicle. I like to place a small rag or a shop towel in between these two and any of the body where they could potentially ground out. Make sure they're not going to move, then you're ready for the next step. The last ground to be removed is of course on the battery here. It takes a 10mm socket to get that nut off. This is just some cheap insurance that way you don't ground anything out while you're working on your vehicle, and you can stay safe throughout the entire process. We'll pop that up, set it right on top of the battery here.

We're going to change locations a bit in the engine bay. We're up by the cowl and we're going to remove these three nuts that hold on this cooling bracket as well as this one here. We're going to use a 10mm socket. I do have a deep socket to get on this first nut. Simply pull these off. Make sure you safe all this hardware, as you will be reinstalling it.

We're going to pick our coolant overflow tank up and pop it out of the way. This is going to allow us to run the wiring harness for the new switch panel right behind there. We're going to reinstall it once we have the harness behind it. Locate the power distribution bracket that comes with the kit, orient it in this manner. It's going to have the larger section towards the passenger side of the vehicle and the smaller section here. Place it over these two studs on the end.

One of these bolts you removed and the other one actually comes with a new nut with the kit. Place these larger nut and washer onto this side. Get it snugged up by hand. And I'm going to use the included nut that came with the kit. Place it on this side over here. Get these both tightened down.

The power distribution center looks like this. You're going to want to make sure that the wires come out of this side, face the passenger side of the vehicle, as that's where we're going to be going next. There's a slit on the back side with this little clip. This is where the bracket goes into. You'll hear it snap. It might be a little bit confusing, but once you have it in the right way, it'll snap right there. Let's slide it on. It goes on the outer post and just drops right into that little slot. And you can hear it click.

We're going to run the wires underneath the coolant tank here, all the way across to our battery. We're going to tuck the wiring up underneath this coolant tank reservoir. Just lay it on top of the engine cover for now. We're going to work over to the passenger side then, once we get this back bolted up.

The bottom of the coolant tank sits on a stud and has to slide over here all at the same time. It's a little bit tight. Make sure that this wire is pulled up and out of the way, or it will interfere with it. This outer bracket, you can actually put the wire a little bit lower for this whole harness. Place the coolant tank back onto its stud. You're going to have to kind of work it a little bit to get it back onto the original studs. Then reinstall the nuts, get them tightened down.

Once the coolant tank is completely installed, we're going to start running to the loom behind the back of the firewall. It simply tucks away in the back. You're going to have to get creative on the way you stand up. The Mopar kit includes the zip ties. You want to go around this plastic trim, pull it out towards you a little bit. It'll tuck under there and go straight down, and pull the bottom out towards you, till it pops out. It's a little bit tricky to get it done. This will give you a nice finish, though.

Pop it through the zip tie. I like to get the zip ties nice and tucked out of the way. We'll come back later and trim that up. Go along the entire center and do the same process. We're going to actually utilize this little bracket here to mount the last section on.

There's going to be two end terminals like so with red wires coming out of it. One has two wires coming on, the other one also has two wires. They're going to have a small fuse on the end. These go onto the positive end of the battery here. Simply pop this cover off and they're going to go onto this bolt. It's a nut that pulls off of the end here, use a 10mm and let's put this on.

Go ahead and place the terminals on. Then use that same nut that you pulled off, get it nice and snugged up. You don't have to go over-tight, it is just battery terminal. Lay that protective cover back on. As I said before, it'll lay nice, and see, they come out here. It almost looks like a factory option.

As far as the auxiliary switches, as well as the ground for the power distribution center, you're going to run it to this stud right here. The auxiliary switches are obviously going to stay unconnected until you decide to put some accessories on them. Remove this 10mm bolt on the end stud. This is going to be right next to those two grounds that we pulled off. It's going to be this end stud right here. Throw this under, get started.

Pop the nut off that stud, and I'm actually going to run it above these two other studs here where we pulled off. That way we can easily put them back on. Just set it on there and reinstall the nut again. The wires back here, it actually tucks behind the fuse box. Get it nice and tucked out of the way, never even know it's there. We're not going to reattach these two grounds, as well as the ground on the battery. We're going to wait till we go on the inside and get that all buttoned up.

We're going to start to work the wiring to the inside of the vehicle. Make sure that you leave these auxiliary hots on the outside. They're going to be connected to that ground that you just attached. We'll tuck them down here right next to the battery.

Go ahead and grab the longer piece, which is going to have a couple other fittings, your inside auxiliaries, as well as these six other connections. These are going to be dropped down right in between the fuse box here. It's kind of hard to see. They're going to tuck in through a grommet on the firewall. We'll show you how to get it through the firewall then next.

The wire's tucked away nicely. Now we can move on to the inside of the fender well and get these through the firewall. We're at the outside of our Jeep and we're right inside that inner liner that we pulled off in the beginning step. Now, as you can see, it's really hard to see where the grommet is to go inside the firewall. There's actually this metal structure here. It's about two inches in. There's a little rubber piece.

We are going to use an old metal clothes hanger, kind of pop through that hole there, and then we can get started popping the rest of that harness inside the Jeep. A little tip for getting the wires on the inside of the Jeep, we actually used a metal-bound clothes hanger, we cut the end of it and made it a little bit sharp, that way it pops through. Don't make it too sharp, 'cause you don't want it to cut any wires. It goes right to the inside of the vehicle and it comes underneath the passenger side glove box.

It helps to have two people do this. One person on the outside to push the clothes hanger through and any other sharp object, and then one on the inside to kind of see where it's going. If you push it through, and don't have anyone on the inside, it can go up behind your firewall and it can grab on to all sorts of things, so just make sure you have somebody in there to watch where it goes.

We're going to grab a bit of scrap wire that we have laying around. Go on the inside of the vehicle, get this wrapped around that clothes hanger that we have in there, pull this through, attach this with some electrical tape to the outside harness and pull that through the firewall. Once you have the wire on the clothes hanger pulled out, remove the tape on this. You can throw the coat hanger away or put it aside.

Get this wire wrapped around your factory harness, throw some electrical tape on it, and then get it pull through to the inside. Get them wrapped up. And we're going to throw a nice amount of electrical tape on here. Make it a lot easier. Just around the edges, too and where the auxiliary switches kind of end there, that's where it's going to get hung up. Make it as flat as possible. Some more up here.

After that's all on, I'm actually going to put a little dab of grease right here, that way it slides through. That's actually in the Mopar instruction manual. Makes it a little bit easier to get through that rubber grommet. Get a little grease on there, now you're ready to pull it through.

We've got the floor mat out. Makes it a little bit easier to access the trim panel. First step is to pop this panel here. Pulls right out towards you. It'll pop out in the back, pop out in the front, it's on a little strap. Underneath here, you have your door connection. This powers your power windows and locks and all that. Simply pull the red tab up to get this off. Push the red tab upwards, push the black tab while you push the white tab up towards the top of the Jeep. Keep going, you'll hear it click, and you can pull it out.

Then remove the door limiting strap. Pull it right up and off. I'm just going to set this aside. This will give us access to this panel here that has to be pulled off. Pull this out, there's a little tab behind it. Slides out. And then there's a 10mm nut right here that you have to get off. It'll only take a couple turns and you can do it by hand. Falls just like that. There's a little rubber piece in here too. Get that out, set these both aside.

To get this kick panel off, you have to start up at the front, give it a nice little pull. Then we'll work our way around. It's kind of cumbersome to get off. Gotta just kinda work underneath it. Pull up along, you'll hear it pop out. Then it'll pull right out towards you.

The connection that we're going to start with is this lower gray plug. You have to pull the small pin in here. Pull this towards you, and it actually comes apart. You've got the male side here, going to set that aside. Pop the female out, there's a little push pin, it'll come towards you. Then we can start tinkering with these wires here to go into our connections.

Pull the TPA out of the inside of the electrical connector. Pull the other side of the connection harness out, just ever so slight. Go to the top row of the connection on the right and count over to the left five. That'll be number 13. It's an orange wire on the outside. We're going to pop that one through. To remove these pins, it's actually a little easier than you think. Grab a small pick, push it through the front of the connection, then with a small pair of needle nose pliers, gently pull it out. Should come out pretty easily.

Look at the two orange wires that come off the new harness for the auxiliary switch. You'll notice one have a straight end and the other is rounded off. Use the rounded off end, and that's going to go back into that 13 connector in the factory bulkhead. Grab the female connection that comes with the kit. This is going to be a two prong connector. This'll be the female and the shorter end. Grab the factory wire that came out of that harness and we're going to place that in there, as well as a plastic filler piece.

Grab the longer end of the connection that's included with the kit and the orange wire with the smaller end that comes off of the auxiliary switch wiring. This is going to slide into the same side where you have the orange wire on the other connection. Make sure you line it up and put it on the same side, 'cause the other side gets a blank, and if you mix them up, it won't make the proper connection.

Same as the other side, you will hear it click once it's fully seated. Put a plastic filler into the male side of the connection and you can go ahead and make a full connection and secure them together. Now you can reinstall the red lock plate and then reconnect the connectors. You'll hear it snap into place, then connect them. Zip tie the wires out of place and you're good to go for the next step.

The nice thing about this kit is you do have four auxiliary outputs. These are going to be hots for inside the vehicle, if you have any interior accessories you'd like to power, such as a CB radio or maybe some interior lights. We're going to tuck that up and out of the way until we decide to use it.

Place this back into the slot, there's a little tab that goes into a hole on the inside of the kick panel. Make sure everything's tucked and out of the way. Leave these six wires with enough clearance that way you can tuck them up behind the dash. This is what powers your switch panel. We're not going to put the kick panel on yet, wait until we have everything buttoned up, then we'll put it on.

We're going to remove this whole inner panel here. Use a plastic trim removal tool and get it started at the edge. Disconnect this wiring in the center here. Push down on the tab and pull it. For the remote start, it's the same set up. Push down on the top, pull it towards you. It might take a little bit of wiggle. And you can set this out of the way.

To get the rest of this cluster out, there's a Phillips head screw right at the top center. We're going to pull that off. Pop the lower panel off, it'll pull off with a few clips. Flip it around and disconnect the few connections that are on the back. We're going to remove the storage cubby here. There's seven screws on the outside. It's going to use a 5.5mm socket to get them pulled off. We have them on a gun just to make it a little bit quicker. Going to start with this side here.

We're going put the switch panel on the right side when it's facing you, so we'll place it on the left side in the back. It's going to go right over the locations here for the holes. Go ahead and start it with a factory screw up in the corner. And then they include a little cubby to go on the other side. Then the cubby goes on the right here. Just sits nicely into place there and we can use the factory screws on those as well.

Now we can get them all tightened up. Now we'll get the wiring connector on and we can reassemble everything. In order to get the wiring harness over into the center dash cluster, you have to pull your glove box off, drop it down on the left hand side, push it up a tad bit, push this towards you, and it'll pull right out. You can lower this and then up inside there's a little bracket that gets pushed towards the front of the Jeep. It sorta falls right towards you, then you can pull it up and out of the way.

There's going to be seven connections here for the harness that go on the back of the switches. Use the connector that comes with the kit. We're going to pull this small safety latch off. Go in through the groove here, pop it up, use these and just gently pull it up towards you.

Now we can put in all the connectors into the back. They are labeled for which cavity you have go into. I'll show you exactly where they go. If you turn the connector around, you'll see the clasp on the top. It is labeled one through five on the top row and then six through 10 on the bottom row. We're going to start with the orange wire, it's going to go in number nine, which is one to the left of number 10.

Put it in the back, get all the connections in first before you put that safety lock back in. Put the orange wire into number nine here. Make sure it goes all the way in. It'll click. So your orange wire went in cavity number nine. We're going to place the red wire into cavity one. Brown with white is going to go into cavity six.

We're going to put the brown and violet into cavity number four. Next, put the brown and gray wire into cavity number seven. The brown and orange wire goes into cavity three. Last, but not least, the black wire goes into cavity 10. Make sure that all seven are properly seated in the back, then you can put that safety clip back in. Reconnect all the wires that you pulled out. You're going to put that new connection on to the auxiliary switches. Reinstall all the fittings that you took off.

Pop the center section back into place. Go around the edge and make sure it's all clipped in, then we can reinstall the screw right here. Then we can put the upper section back on. Reinstall the upper panel, there's a connection for the push button start and for the central controls. Make sure you have everything connected, then push it back into place.

Place the glove box back into place. It'll go over there, you'll hear it click. Drop this back down, get it closed up. Then we can move on to our kick panel. Place the kick panel back into place, slide it into the front there. Pull your door connection up and out of the way. This will sit below, it'll all pop and clip back in all the way up to the back. Put the rubber washer back into place long-ways towards the top and then this small, silver retention nut can go over it, then can be tightened down with a 10mm socket.

Place your door connection back into place. It'll slide up onto it. Lock on there. Then we can connect the door again, put the limiting strap back on, push it right into place. That white tab gets pulled down, red tab also gets pulled down. And you can put your cover back on. And we're done on the inside, we can move back to the outside.

We can now reconnect the negative side of the battery. Use a 10mm to get it nice and snugged up. Reconnect both of the battery isolator studs. Then put the nuts onto them. And get them both tightened up. This smaller one's a 10mm and this other one is a 13.

The last step is to reinstall the inner fender. The kit does include all the rivets to do so. Simply tuck this back under, work it around. Then since we did have the front splash guards, I'm going to set those back into place. Place the front splash guard back into place. We're going to start with these lower two rivets.

There are two more push pins that have to go in. One on the inside here, and then one right towards the middle. After you have those in, close up your hood and your installation's complete.

We just wrapped up the installation of the Mopar Auxiliary Switch System on our 2018 Jeep JL Wrangler. This is a really awesome system that allows us to connect it through the factory Uconnect. One thing for you guys is you will have to take it to the dealership after it's done. They have to re-flash it and put in a little program into it to make it function.

Now, you can find it here as well as many other great parts for your JL at CJPonyParts.com.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Gladiator years:

  • 2020,
  • 2021,

This product will fit the following Wrangler years:

Only registered users can ask/answer questions. Please sign in or create an account.
Write Your Own Review
Only registered users can write reviews. Please sign in or create an account.