Mopar Trailer Wiring Harness 7-Way Jeep Wrangler JL 2018-2022



  • Fits Fca Us Llc Wirings
  • High-Quality Connectors
  • Protective Wrapping
  • Seven and Four Way Connectors

Mopar 7-Way Trailer Wiring Harness for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, and 2022 Jeep JL Wranglers.

Mopar designed this 7-Way Trailer Wiring Harness (82216329AA) specifically for your 2018-2022 JL Wrangler. This harness has a seven-four way connector that reduces the need for wire splicing.

Features and Benefits:
- Custom fit to FCA US LLC wirings specs
- High-quality connectors
- Connector enables trailer stop, turn, reverse, parking lights and brake circuit IP and B+ circuit
- Features protective wrapping that guards against weather and abrasions

Kit Includes:
- Harness
- Module
- Tie straps
- Connector
- Loose in-line connector

This harness includes a seven-four way connector that enables trailer stop, turn, reverse, parking lights and brake circuit and B+ circuit. Designed for JL Wranglers sold in the USA, Canada or Mexico, this wiring harness minimizes the need for wire splicing. This harness features a protective wrapping that guards against weather and abrasion, and has high-quality connectors and relays as necessary.

*Estimated installation time is 3 hours.

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

We're going to help you tow with your JL Wrangler.

If you have a trailer hitch on your JL Wrangler and are looking to tow and have the option to add trailer brakes, today we're going to be installing this Mopar seven way trailer wiring harness, fitting your brand new 2018 JL Wrangler.

This Mopar seven way trailer wiring harness is going to fit both two door and four door JL Wranglers and includes a seven pin connection as well as your standard four pin connection on the back end of your Jeep. It includes a metal bracket to get it mounted up, all of the wiring necessary, zip ties and everything you need to get it put onto your JL. With that being said, we're going to get it installed in our 2018 JL Wrangler.

Tools needed for this installation, 3/8th inch ratchet, 10 millimeter deep socket, 13 millimeter deep socket, T40 Torx bit, small pick, small pair of pliers, a pair of snips, a plastic pry bar and a rivet tool.

To start this installation we're actually going to be at front of our Jeep Wrangler on the passenger side. You have to cut four of the rivets on the outer fender flare. This is going to give you access to that inside panel and get started on the main wiring connection. Let's get started.

You're going to remove these four rivets. Start at the top and work your way down. It's going to be these lower four. This'll allow you access to that rear panel. You're going to have to cut out these top two, we already have these bottom two removed because we did have the Mopar accessories already previously installed. Go ahead and grab a pair of snips and cut these top two out. The kit does include new rivets.

There are going to be two pushpins right here. Pull those out and save them for later. Now you can pull the inner fender out and get access to that wiring connection. While we're at the front of the Jeep, the next step is going to be to disconnect and isolate our three battery grounds. Those are going to be two 10 millimeter sockets on the outside and a 13 here in the center. We'll get them all disconnected and set aside. Thread the hardware here back onto the stud, completely isolate the battery.

Going to the back of the Jeep we're actually going to start by removing this plate here. All you have to do is grab it on both sides, pull it straight out towards you and it'll unlatch off of the clips. After you have that plate removed, remove the panel here that covers up your jack and also holds all the hinge bolts. All you have to do is slide this over, pull it straight up and set it aside.

The next step is going to be to remove the taillight. As you might know by now, you have to remove this inside access panel and then there's a 10 millimeter screw underneath. Let's go ahead and pop this off with a plastic pry bar. Then we'll get that bolt removed with a 10 millimeter socket. Now remove the plastic screw with a 10 millimeter socket. After the bolt's removed, go ahead and pull your taillight out, then we're going to disconnect the wiring harness here. Pull the red tab down and then set your taillight aside. Once you have the passenger side taillight out, repeat the same process on the other side.

The next step is going to be to remove the passenger side cargo hold downs. There's a little cap that covers them up. Pop that off and then use a T40 Torx bit to get them removed. Now you can remove the panel underneath. Remove this plastic trim piece around the seatbelt base. Use a plastic pry bar. If your Jeep is equipped with a premium sound system there's going to be a subwoofer right here, remove the two bolts and get that pulled out. There's a wiring connection on the back.

With the seatbelt retention piece removed you can now remove this panel. I'm going to start at the bottom corner and pull outwards. Then remove this plastic panel around the roll cage. If you have a four door you're going to move onto this center section here. The two door will be at the exact same spot however you won't have this opening here. You have to pull off this plastic panel where your wiring connection and your door limiting strap go. If you pull around towards the front it'll start popping out and just work your way down. And it's out.

After you have that piece removed you're going to move onto this lower kick panel here. Grab it by the back and pull it straight out towards the seat. There's going to be Christmas tree on the back of it. Then you work your way front. The same thing out front, pull it towards the center of the Jeep. Remove the front area of the kick panel, same steps. Just pull it out. Before we can remove this front kick panel, pull the front cap off here exposing your wiring connection for the door then remove this 10 millimeter bolt. Now you can pop the kick panel off.

To remove the glove box, simply release it. Go up inside and push the rubber piece up. It'll drop down and pull right out.

We're back up under the hood and we're actually going to remove the top of this fuse box panel and start using some of the included wiring. To do so all you have to do is pull on the clips on both outer sides of it. Pull it straight up and set it aside. There's going to be a nut on this first stud, that's where we're going to connect the positive wire to our back power for the seven way trailer hitch. Use a 10 millimeter socket and remove the nut on the top. Attach this end of your single red wire to that stud that you just pulled off then we're going to tighten down the nut that's been pressed onto the top. We're going to place it like so.

Leave that loose, we'll zip tie it with the included zip ties later once we have that back tightened down. Use two of the included zip ties to go onto this main harness here to keep it out of the way. Make sure they're a 100 millimeter apart exactly or else the entire install's going to go to ... Once you have both of the zip ties tightened down, you take a pair of snips and trim off the excess. Put the fuse box cover back on. Make sure that the wire is free up above.

Now you're going to tuck this end of the wire down through in between the fender and underneath to where you remove that inner fender piece so you can see it. Get it through the cab and work back toward the back of the Jeep. Pretty hard to see where it goes but you'll find an opening in here and then go underneath and check if it's coming out. After you find it, pull it all the way through, make sure it's not getting caught up anywhere. It is a lot of wire, has to make it all the way to the back end of the Jeep.

The grommet is going to be on the inside of the fender well. It's really tucked up there you can't even see it on camera. Feel around with your hand, it's going to be towards the fender sides. It'll be a big rubber grommet. Go ahead and use a clothes hanger and just poke it through then we'll get the wires through.

We're going to run the wire along the bottom kick panel to make sure it doesn't interfere. Use some of the included zip ties and loosely put them around. We're not going to tighten them up until we have it all the way run to the passenger side taillight. There are nice little clips where they snap into. Keeps them nice and tucked away. I'm going to use some of these zip ties to go along some of the factory harnesses. Just get them tightened up. Pull the carpet back a little bit and run it up along this wiring harness.

Find the grommet here, it's on the rear top of this inner fender and you're going to use a long screwdriver to poke a hole through. Once you have the hole poked you can now run your wire through there and it's going to go behind the taillight. Go ahead and put the wire through the hole that you just poked in.

The next step is going to be to grab the included harness. First I'm going to take this light blue wire and the ground post right here, go back up through that grommet that you came down with that red wire and then run it up towards the front. This is going to go on a stud and this wire's going to go all the way up behind the glove box. This is going to be your brake controller for the trailer. Let's get started.

Get the blue wire through first, make sure it doesn't get snagged on anything. Pull your black wire through. Then we're going to run it up through the zip ties that we just installed and put this up to the post up towards the front of this fender well. The ground for this kit is going to go on this stud. It's right below the rear entrance of the door towards the back of the Jeep. Use a 10 millimeter to get the nut off of it. Place the harness over it and reinstall the nut. Tighten it up then run the blue wire all the way up behind the glove box and then we'll go to the taillight and start working on that.

The next step's going to be to put the pin connection into this harness that came with the kit. To do so, go to the back side and push the retention plate out. It'll get caught there and then we'll place it into this back slot that's open. This smaller red pin is going to go into this open slot on the end. It's going to be right next to the plug. Take the included back cover and slide it into the grooves like so.

We're now going to install this control module. It's going to go right below this post here for the tailgate. That's the limiting strap for it. It's going to go right below it. We're going to get it cleaned off with some alcohol that way it sticks on nice. Now we're going to use the double stick tape that came with the kit. Put it on the back here and attach it to the inner wall. Now we're going to get this back side peeled off and stuck onto the inside. I'm going to put it upside down like this that way we can plug it in easier. Push on it, make sure it sticks really well and we can move on. Place this connection into the module that you just stuck on. Pull the black tab up, you'll hear it click and it's completely secure.

Before we can run the wires behind the Jeep we're going to use the factory taillight harness. Go into this female plug and connect them. You still have this output here that's going to go into your taillight on this side. We're going to tuck this wiring away. Go to this side of the Jeep, get that inner wheel well liner out and run the wires across the other side of the vehicle.

There are going to be three eight millimeter screws that attach to this inner fender liner. Go ahead and remove them and pull this panel out. After you have it out, repeat the same process on the other side.

We're back to the outside of the Jeep and that panel that we just removed we're actually going to put our wires through this hole, run some of them all the way across to the taillight and then the other six are going to be underneath in the seven pin. I'm going to start by running some of these through the hole right behind where you put that module.

You're going to run these two wires along the frame rail all way up the same type of hole that you went in. It's going to go up the driver's side and stick out here. We're now going to use this harness. It comes with the kit. We have to pull off these retention pins and repin it with these two wires to ensure that we have the taillights and all the proper functionality. Let's get started.

For this female side there's going to be a little access port here. You're going to get this lightly colored white piece out. That's going to allow you to repin it through the back. Simply get in there with a small pick, pop it upwards. And then pull it right out like so. For the male end here you're going to use a small pair of pliers and reach in there. You can see there's two little holes. Pull that piece straight out and that's out. As you can see on this side there's only one location where's there's an empty hole, that's where we're going to put this yellow wire. This male end is going to go on this side here while the female's going to go on the other side. If you look in there you can easily see that there's male ends in there as well. That's the side it's going to go with. You're going to slide it up in this manner. Make sure it's coming through okay.

Now you can see that all 10 are in there. We're going to work on the other side now. Grab your female side of the spade and put it through the back in the same way you just did the last one. Should go right up through. Just take a look at it up front and make sure it goes in there. Now all 10 are there, we're going to put this retention piece back in. Make sure it clicks all the way down and that yellow piece is secure and that's all it takes for this side.

Plug this female end into the male end of the factory. You'll hear it click and then this is going to go in the taillight once we put it back on.

We're going to use one of these side butter clips that come with the kit. They slide over this flat piece of metal here and grab onto it. And then you use the zip tie to go around the connection that you just made. So keep it nice up and out of the way that way you can plug your taillight in and you're good to go.

Since we're just finishing up on this side you can actually reinstall the taillight. Plug it in, you'll hear it click. Push it in all the way. Then you're going to use this white screw here that you pulled off. It uses a 10 millimeter socket. Get it back tightened up.

As you can see we're going to start to pin our seven pin connection to the back here. I already have the black one in and honestly I was just trying it out but if you get them in there they're going to stay so make sure you put the right one in. The next color we're going to do is going to be brown. The brown is going to go into cavity F. Hear it click in there. Let's do the blue next. Blue is going to go into cavity C and these are labeled. They're pretty easy to see too if you have it up close. Green is going to go into cavity D, that's right next to the blue one. Yellow's going to go into cavity G which is right above the black cavity right here.

If you look at it from the front it's easier to see which way you need to line it up. I'll show you at the end what they look like when they're all lined up. The red wire that you ran all this way is going to go through the E cavity. And last but not least the white wire's going to go right through the center. Then we're going to put our retention clip on the back of this. This'll keep the wires nice and divided there. Then they'll click in like so. Keep them nice and secure and then once we're ready we're going to plug this into the back of the seven way connection. It'll give us power to both the seven way and the four pin here. Really nice feature.

Before we get everything zip tied up into place I'm actually going to install the bracket here. Going to use the two provided bolts to get it secured. One's going to go on the outside and then one all the way here on the inside. Nice thing is the frame is already threaded for them. They use a 16 millimeter socket to get tightened up. With the bracket properly installed you can now install the outside of your electrical components. They'll simply snap into place. Then you can connect the back side of your electrical connection. You'll notice there's a little slot it's going to be about here underneath there. You'll hear that also snap into place. And now we can zip tie the wires up out the way and start assembling our Jeep again.

Reinstall these covers once you have everything tied up and out of the way. They're a little bit tricky to get in there. After you have everything buttoned up on the inside we're going to go back out to this front fender and use the included plastic rivets to get this fender back attached. You're going to do these four lower ones and install them.

The last step of this installation is to reconnect your battery ground by placing it onto the negative terminal and using a 10 millimeter socket to get it tightened up. Once it's tightened down you can close up your hood and you're ready to go tow with your brand new trailer wiring harness.

We just wrapped up the installation of our Mopar seven way trailer harness onto the back of our brand new 2018 JL Wrangler. This is a really complete kit that allows you to have a seven way trailer connection and even a four way trailer connection onto the back of your JL. You now have power from your battery and even a brake controller if you're towing a trailer that has electric brakes.

Now you can find this trailer harness as well as many other great parts for your JL right here at

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Wrangler years:

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