Mountaintop Tuning Turbo Exhaust Adapter Kit Hi-Flow 3.5L EcoBoost F-150 2011-2020/ F-150 Raptor 2017-2020
- Increase Air Flow
- Decreases Back Pressure
- Spool Faster, Less Turbo Lag
- Made In The USA
Mountaintop Tuning Hi-Flow Turbo Exhaust Adapter Kit for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s and 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020 F-150 Raptors.
If you're looking to further boost the performance of your 2011-2020 3.5L F-150 or your 2017-2020 F-150 Raptor, then this Mountaintop Tuning Hi-Flow Turbo Exhaust Adapter Kit is exactly what you need! This all-new, American-made turbo exhaust adapter will replace your favorite Ford truck's stock catalytic converter adapter.
Features and Benefits:
- Reduced Turbo Lag
- Increased Exhaust Airflow
- Decreased Back Pressure
- Reduced Exhaust Temperature
- Compatible with Factory and Aftermarket Downpipes
It will help to increase your F150's exhaust airflow and decrease back pressure, allowing your EcoBoost engine's turbo to spool faster and reduce turbo lag. This kit is the perfect way to get a bit more boost out of your 3.5L engine, but also helps reduce your truck's exhaust temperature. Your new turbo adapter will work with both factory and aftermarket downpipes, and will easily install with fresh hardware from Ford (TEAINSTL1).
Please Note: This turbo adapter install kit (sold separately) is recommended for installation--it includes gaskets, studs and nuts (TEAINSTL1).
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Right from the factory, the Ecoboosts are powerful and great performing trucks, but being that they're turbo charged, there's a lot of potential waiting to be unlocked. Today we're gonna make the turbo's fuel up faster, and crank out more power in our 2017 F-150 Raptor.
This is the Mountaintop Tuning Hi-Flow Turbo Exhaust Flange Kit for the 2011 to 2019 3.5 liter EcoBoost F-150 and Raptor. It's gonna directly replace the factory flange, connecting the turbo's to the factory downpipes. They feature a smoother and larger inside diameter for a significant reduction in back pressure and exhaust temperature, while allowing the turbos to spool up quicker for some serious power. For more information and pricing, click the link in the description down below. Now let's get to the install.
Tools you'll need for this installation, a 3/8" ratchet, various wobble extensions, a 10 millimeter socket, 13 millimeter socket, 15 millimeter socket, a half-inch ratchet, 21 millimeter socket, 10 millimeter wrench, 15 millimeter wrench, and an 18 millimeter wrench.
All right, the first thing we're gonna do to install these turbo flanges is to remove the factory exhaust. Now right now we have an after market exhaust on the truck, so we're gonna show you footage from a previous install of us removing the factory exhaust, and then we'll resume with removing the downpipes.
The first thing we're gonna do is remove this bracket here on the tailpipes. Remove both 10 millimeter nuts from each bracket. The brackets on each tailpipe can then be removed as well. Loosen the 15 millimeter nut on the clamp, and remove the tailpipe, and then do the same thing to the other side.
Next, we're gonna loosen the two clamps at the front of the muffler, so the muffler can be removed. The muffler can now be removed. Loosen the flange end clamp securing the muffler to the downpipe. Once you remove these two bolts, the muffler can be removed. To remove the factory downpipes, the transmission crossmember has to be removed. We're gonna start off by removing that, by removing this plate right here.
Before we remove the crossmember, you wanna make sure that you have the transmission or the transfer case, supported. We have a pole jack applying very light pressure to the transfer case. Remove the two bolts that secure the wiring harness to the crossmember. Remove the two 21 millimeter nuts securing the transmission mount to the crossmember. Use an 18 millimeter socket and wrench to remove the four bolts securing the crossmember. There's three more bolts securing heat shields to the crossmember, there's one right here. It's really hard to see, but it's just right on top of this crossmember. There's a bolt. There's another one right here securing this heat shield.
To disconnect the heat shield from the crossmember on the driver's side, there's two options you can do. You could either remove the bolt on top of the crossmember right here, but I find it really hard to get to. So we're gonna remove the bolt that secures the heat shield further up to the frame. And now the crossmember should come down.
Next we have to remove the transmission mount from the transmission. It's held on by four 15 millimeter bolts. It's definitely hard to see the bolts on the driver's side, but there are two securing the mount to the transmission. The first one is easy to get, but the second one that's right here, we need to remove this bolt to even get to it.
Use a 15 millimeter wrench to remove this bolt. The mount can now be removed from the downpipe. Locate the two nuts on the turbo flange, and remove them. You may wanna let them soak with some Pb Blaster, or another lubricant like that because these are going to be very corroded and very hard to get off.
In our case, with trying to remove this nut, the stud actually backed out of the turbo instead of the nut coming off. That's actually a good thing because these studs have to come off for us to change this flange, so this actually made it a little bit easier. Hopefully it'll happen for the rest of them.
So for the top nut on this flange, I'm actually coming above the frame from the wheel side. This is gonna make it a little bit easier. But for the lower one, you would definitely want wobble extensions to get to it. Before we can remove the downpipe from the vehicle, there's four oxygen sensors that we need to disconnect. The two upstream ones on the driver and passenger side, those wires run up behind the engine block, and the connectors are on each side of the engine. They're pretty hard to get to, but if you just follow the wire, you'll find the connector, and the other two are on the transmission, and I'll show you them.
On the Raptor, the downstream oxygen sensor on the passenger side is extremely difficult to get to. On the F-150, it's not as hard to get to, but on the Raptor, this connector was basically centered above the transmission. Very hard to see, very hard to get to, but if you just follow the wire from the sensor, you can find it, but it is difficult to unplug. The driver's side downstream sensor is much easier to get to. It's just on the side of the transmission.
We're on the driver's side now. We're going to remove the two nuts on the turbo flange. We have a couple of wobble extensions. These really help out. And we're gonna break them loose, and hopefully get lucky by removing the stud with the nut, which that broke the stud loose, which is a good thing for us. That will make this easier. As you can see, we are turning the stud, so this is the third one that's happened like this, which is a good thing. Hopefully, it happens for you when you go to do this.
When you remove the last nut from the downpipes, you wanna make sure that your downpipes are supported, or that you have an extra set of hands, so it doesn't fall on you. Lucky for us, all four of the studs came out of the turbo. Now we can try to maneuver these out of the truck. With the downpipe lowered a little bit, we can now get our impact gun on this clamp. You can break it loose before you drop it, but it's gonna be really hard to do it with a wrench because it is extremely corroded, so we're gonna use our impact to break this loose. Hey, there we go. Oh, now we're on the lift.
So this is what we're upgrading. This is the flange that was secured to the turbo with the two studs. Now if we measure the inside diameter, roughly 52 millimeters. Our upgraded one, 58 millimeters. So significantly larger for better exhaust flow. As you can see on the other side, it's very evident just how much larger this one is, so this is gonna flow a lot more, and help our turbos just spool up a lot faster. All right, so we're just about ready to install our new high-flow turbo flanges, but it's highly recommended that you get a new hardware and gasket for these turbos. We do offer this kit here at CJ's. You're gonna get four new studs, four new nuts, and four new gaskets. It's a really good idea to get this because this hardware, and the gaskets, have been through a lot of heat cycles, and they probably need replaced anyway. So we're gonna throw this new set on our Raptor to make sure it seals properly.
We're ready to install our high-flow flange now. Take one of your new studs, or if you're reusing your OEM ones, take one of the OEM studs. Place it through the flange, and through the gasket. I'm gonna recommend starting by installing the bottom stud first. Then the top one. There's a couple different methods you could use to install these studs. What I'm gonna do is take a nut that's larger than the stud, place it all the way down, then a washer, then take your new nut, and tighten it down. Get it nice and snug, break the nut loose, and do the same thing to the top one, and break it loose.
Install the driver's side flange now. Tighten both studs. Both flanges are now installed onto the turbos, the next part's gonna be a bit tricky, and that's installing the downpipes. Line up the flange with the stud, and install your two nuts. Make sure you tighten the flanges down evenly. Tighten the clamp on the downpipe. We're going to install the transmission mount now. If you have trouble lining this up, you might have to loosen the flanges, and readjust, but it should line up for you. Install the second piece of the downpipe hanger. Plug in the downstream oxygen sensors. Reinstall the driver's side heat shield. Reinstall the crossmember. Secure the mount to the crossmember with the two nuts. Install all four crossmember bolts. Get all four of the nuts and bolts tightened up.
Now that they're tightened up, I can finally remove this support that's been in my way this whole time, and really annoying me. Get all of your heat shields secured to the crossmember. Secure the wiring harness back on to the crossmember. Reinstall the transfer case skid plate, then install the cat-back exhaust. We're not gonna show you how to do that because we don't have the factory exhaust on this truck. So now we're gonna go up to the engine bay, and reconnect the two oxygen sensors. All right, we have the upper oxygen sensors plugged in now. They're really difficult to show you, you're gonna have to fish the wires up from the bottom of the truck to the engine bay. It's a bit tricky, but it is possible. Now, let's take this thing to the dyno, and see how much power it picks up.
This was the run previous, and this is after this modification, this run. We also did a second run to back it up, and it was roughly the same within a couple horsepower. But across the board, in the mid-range you gained much more than that, you gained over 20 horsepower between this run here at about 5,000 RPM, and just below that at 4,500 RPM you gained 25 full pounds of torque. So a lot of the usable power in the mid-range is where you gained. All right, guys, there you go. You just saw it. This thing made a gain of over 20 usable horsepower. That's pretty impressive. This is definitely a really good horsepower per dollar modification. It's gonna take you probably the better part of a day to install this kit, but for the price of the kit, and how much power you gain, it's an absolute no brainer.