Pedders Lowering Spring Kit SportsRyder Focus RS 2016-2018
- Lowers Center Of Gravity
- Improves Handling
- Direct Fit
- Powder Coated
Pedders SportsRyder Lowering Spring Kit for all 2016, 2017 and 2018 Focus RSs.
This Pedders PED-804021 SportsRyder Lowering Spring Kit is a fantastic way to add some aggressive, street-race style to your 2016-2018 Focus RS while significantly improving your performance. This four (4) piece kit is comprised of the premium range of Pedders lowered coil springs for both sport and performance applications.
Coil Spring design and manufacturing is a craft which requires strict adherence to a demanding series of procedures, all of which are critical to the performance of the final product. Built to ISO 9001 standards, this lowering spring kit has a tolerance of only +/- 2 millimeters at loaded height. The springs are cut to a precise length for ideal fitment in your 2016-2018 Focus RS. The coils are hot formed and quenched in an oil bath along with being slowly tempered in the oven for an extremely durable and strong end product. As a finishing touch, this kit is powder coated after being shot peened for enhanced scratch resistance.
This SportsRyder Lowering Spring Kit from Pedders will give your Focus RS the unrivaled handling and performance you’re looking for while adding a touch of street style.
Features and Benefits:
- Lowers center of gravity
- Improves handling
- Manufactured to a precise length for a perfect fit
- Hot formed coils are quenched in oil bath
- Slowly tempered in oven for strength
- Shot peened
- Powder coated
- Front: 3/4”
- Rear: 1.18”
- Front: 246 in/lbs.
- Rear: 263 in/lbs.
*This spring kit is compatible with OEM struts or any aftermarket strut that accepts OEM springs and strut mounts.
Tech Tip: CJ Pony Parts recommends getting an alignment after installation to ensure your Focus RS's specs are in check. Otherwise, your tires may wear improperly.
Order this Pedders PED-804021 SportsRyder Lowering Spring Kit for your 2016, 2017 or 2018 Focus RS today from CJ Pony Parts.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
The nice thing with these, though, is they're gonna retain the factory rod. The front springs are actually the same rate as the factory springs at 246 inch path and the rears are just slightly heavier at 263 versus the factory 246. So the ride of the RS should stay the same. We'll have a nice lower stance, better center of gravity, and better handling. For this installation, with a lift and a pole jack or jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 10 millimeter socket, 13 millimeter socket, 15 millimeter socket, 5 millimeter Allen Socket or Allen key, short extension, 8 millimeter wrench, 13 millimeter wrench, 15 millimeter wrench, 19 millimeter offset wrench, T-30 Torx bit, a Phillips head or flat head screwdriver, panel removal tool, small pry bar, 1/2" impact gun, and a spring compressor.
We're gonna start off with the front, so the first thing we're gonna go is actually separate the cal. I'm gonna walk you through the process of how to do this. RK's gonna handle turning the wrenches for me. We'll start off with these two torque screws and there will be one on each side. Now what we're gonna do now is remove this grill. There's a bolt underneath it. What we're doing is actually separating the lower cal from the upper cal. By doing that, we can leave the wipers on. Don't have to take those off. We just remove the lower cal assembly to access the bolts. With the bolts out, now we can actually remove the weather stripping that hold the two cals together. Now the last step is to separate the cal of these four pushpin clips, two in the center, then one behind each grill. Now if we just lift up on the upper grill, you can remove the lower. What we're gonna do now is pop this clip off right here. This is for the active suspension.
What you're gonna do, is this little lip down here. Get underneath there with a little screwdriver and basically pop that up, open this up. There's a little clip right here, so if we press up on this, pull, then it'll separate. The front strut disconnected, now you can see the three bolts that hold the strut in place. We're gonna loosen one and remove the other two. All right, now we can move down to the wheel well. All right. We're down in the wheel well area with the wheel off. The first thing we're gonna do now is remove the sway bar from the bracket and then move onto to ABS line and the brake line. Then we're just gonna pop the clips off for the ABS line. Make sure that's out of the way and we can move onto the brake line. You're gonna remove the bolt now that holds the brake line to strut and we can move onto the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle.
Now this is the bolt here that hold the spindle to the strut. What we're gonna do is remove this bolt. We're gonna flip it around to the other side. What we have to do is actually spread the spindle out a little bit to separate the strut. So what we're gonna do, again, remove this bolt. We'll thread it in from the opposite side. We're gonna put a piece of metal right in the middle here. So the bolt will hit the metal and then spread open the spindle. Now when you do this, be careful. You don't want to spread it too far because actually, it would be really hard to get the bolt back in. Spread it just enough. You'll start to feel the spindle loosen up from the strut and that's plenty. What we're gonna do now is kind of pull down the spindle assembly to separate from the strut. This part is the most difficult part of this installation, but you gotta basically just push it down to the right point and it'll kind of pivot and get it out of the way.
At this height, it may not work. You may actually want to put it down further to sort of use your leg to push down on it. But if you shimmy it enough, it will pop free. All right, with the strut and spindle now separated, we can go back up to the top, remove that last bolt, and remove the strut assembly. What we're gonna do now is remove this nut. Now unfortunately, because we have the wire going through the center of it, using an impact is out of the question. So what we're gonna do is install two of the original bolts, use a pry bar on those and then an offset wrench to remove the nut. Now remember, you don't want to remove the nut, but you can break it free first and then we'll use the spring compressor. Right now, we're gonna compress the spring so we can remove it from the factory strut. Okay, now we can remove the nut and remove the strut top. Then we can remove the spring from the spindle and then decompress it.
All right, now we're gonna compress our new Pedder spring. It is a shorter spring than the factory, but you still gotta compress it just a little bit to get it onto the strut assembly. Now be careful because the spring does have a top and bottom. The larger opening goes on the bottom. The small opening's gonna go on top. Now we want to get the spring into the factory location and there is a stop on the bottom of the strut that holds it. Then you want to tighten up the strut nut before you decompress the spring compressor. You want to make sure when you go to decompress this, you want this lined up down here with the factory location. The same things with this. You want this to follow the correct curve. Okay, now our strut assembly is ready to go back on the car. Now you want to carefully fish the line up through the hole on the top. And this is nice. A two-man job at this point, if you have some help. Have somebody hold the strut and then you can install the bolts.
All right, now we're gonna put the strut back into the spindle. Basically just push down on it and sort of have to get it lined up and it'll pop back into place. All right, we're gonna remove the factory bolt that we used to spread the spindle earlier and you want to make sure, before you go to tighten it up though, that the spindle is fully seated with the strut bottomed out in it. All right, and sometimes, we want to use a jack, actually, just to make sure everything is fully seated. Once it's fully seated, now we can reinstall the bolt and tighten it down. All right, with the spindle tightened down, now we're gonna reinstall the brake line, the ABS line, and then finally the sway bar end link. All right, we're gonna put the third bolt in up top and tighten all three of these down. Now we're gonna reconnect the electrical connection for the strut. All right, now you want to repeat the process on the other side and then we're gonna reassemble the cal. Both sides finished. Now we're gonna reinstall the lower cal.
Now with the seal on, last step, reinstall the grills. And now we can move onto the rear suspension. Okay, now for the rear, this is actually pretty simple. What we're gonna do is support the arm here. You're gonna remove this bolt. Simply lower it down to remove the spring. Now on the bottom part of the spring, this tail here, again, there will be a sport in the lower control room where that's gonna fit as well. Spring up into place. Bring the arm up. You can actually sort of turn it and it'll lock into that spot. When it locks in, you can put the jack underneath it. You'll jack it into place. Now this can be a little bit of an issue getting this to line up here. Using a screwdriver through the hole and possibly a small pry bar is gonna be necessary because you have to twist it just a little bit. Once you get it lined up, you can use a screwdriver like this and you can see how you can sort of move it around. You want to get it lined up and then start installing the bolt.
All right, we're gonna repeat the process on the other side and your installation's finished. The Pedder sport rod or springs provided a nice drop for our 2016 RS. It's not slammed, but it's definitely lower and a low center of gravity's gonna improve handling. By keeping the spring very similar to factory, though, the rod's gonna be just the same as it was before. The installation, as you saw, is pretty straightforward, probably about a two to two and a half hour install. You'll be back on the road in no time.