Ridetech Coilover Kit Level 2 HQ Series Mustang 2015-2022
- Improves Ride Quality
- Improves Handling
- Fully Adjustable
Ridetech Level 2 HQ Series Coilover Kit for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, and 2022 Mustangs.
This Ridetech Level 2 HQ Series Coilover Kit is designed to fit 2015-2022 Mustangs. Once installed, the transformation from your factory or current aftermarket suspension setup will have you thoroughly impressed. Featuring the ability to perfectly dial in your ride height, caster and camber settings is only the beginning. You will also have 26 possible adjustment points when attempting to dial in rebound. All of this, combined with a rugged and innovative design, will give your S550 Mustang the ability to confidently tackle just about any corner without sacrificing ride quality.
Features and Benefits:
- Anodized Finish Protects Against Corrosion
- High Tensile Premium Steel CNC Cold Wound Coil Springs
- Double Sealed Rod Guide with Dust Cover Eliminates Oil Leakage
- Unique Pinch Clamp Height Adjuster Uses Finer Thread for Easy Adjustment
- Monotube Gas Pressure Design for Fade Free Performance
- Large 1.834" Piston Provides Outstanding Ride Quality
- Kevlar Lined Bearings for Noise Free Operation
- Upper Strut Mount Offers Caster Adjustment
- Lower Strut Mounts Offers Camber Adjustment
- CNC Machined Billet Hardware
- Rebound Single Adjustable
- 5/8" Chrome Shock Shaft
Taking an old-school muscle car and enhancing its performance is one thing, but taking a late-model muscle car to the next level of performance is another. This kit does just that by letting you tune your suspension with the simple rebound adjustment. We are pleased to offer you the ultimate in ride quality and handling performance with these new Ridetech Level 2 HQ Series Coil-Overs. The design and engineering behind this kit will offer you the consistency and compliance that the new Mustang platform deserves.
*This kit is NOT designed to work with vehicles that are equipped with the factory MagneRide suspension.
Included in Kit:
- (2) Steel Mono-Tube Coilover Struts
- (2) Aluminum Mono-Tube Coilover Shocks
- (4) HyperCo 2-1/2” Coilover Springs with Proper Spring Rate
- Performance Engineered Mounting Brackets
- Rear Sway Bar Relocator Kit
- Drill Bit and Riv-Nut Installation Tools
- All Necessary Hardware for Installation
- Spanner Wrench
- Detailed Installation Instructions
Tech Tip: This kit is designed and engineered to offer you the best performance while providing a 1-3/4” to 2” drop when compared to the stock ride height. Although this kit can be adjusted to lower the vehicle up to approximately 3”, you will end up being outside the range of caster and camber adjustment as well as limited by the size wheel and tire combinations that you choose to go with.
Please Note: This kit will require you to drill two holes (drill bit included) on the driver and passenger side and install the included Riv-Nuts. This is the only modification that will need to be made to complete the installation.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Intermediate skill is required for this installation.
I was planning my next upgrade when the answer kind of presented itself in the form of this Ridetech HQ suspension kit. I ran the Ridetech system on my 2011 and absolutely loved it, so today it's going to be the next modification for my 2015 Mustang GT. This is the Ridetech Level Two HQ coil-over kit that's going to fit all 2015-2022 Mustangs. The HQ stands for handling quality. I mean, this is designed to give you much better performance overall out of any 2015-2022. You're going to have 26 total adjustment points as far as the compression, plus you also have high adjustability with the coil-overs.
The entire kit is complete. It comes with everything to install both the front and rear setup. The kit comes with a steel adjustable mono-tube front strut, and then aluminum adjustable mono-tube rear shocks, and the HyperCo 2 1/2-inch springs. The springs are designed by HyperCo specifically for Ridetech to work with the weight of the S550 chassis, so we're ready to go right outside of the box. This kit will allow an 1 1/2" - 3" drop. The recommended rate is 1 3/4" to 2", because once you go past two inches you're not going to have enough caster camber adjustment to make the car align properly.
The Ridetech kit is what I would call a 98% bolt-on kit. The front is a direct replacement, no modifications necessary. For the rear, you do have to install four rib nuts for additional support for the rear shock bracket. The kit also includes the rib nut tool and the drill bit, so there's no tools required beyond normal hand tools for installation. For this installation, you'll need a lift and a pull jack, or a jack and jack stands, and a good selection of hand tools. The only specialty tool required is the rib nut tool, which is provided by Ridetech.
The first step of the installation is to get the car off the ground and remove the wheels. In case you haven't met him yet, this is Freddie. He's our new guy. We do a lot of our truck videos. He's also given me a hand on some installation videos as well. The strut in the front is just like removing it to do the springs, which I've done a million times. I'm going to let Freddie handle the installation today on the front, then I'll help out with the back.
Freddie: All right, the first thing that you have to do to take this strut off is take off the brake caliper so we can get access to the bolts and nuts on the strut. All right, to remove this caliper, all you do is remove the two 15mm bolts securing it.
When you remove the caliper, you want to make sure it doesn't hang by the brake line. You want to put it in a nice, secure place. Now, you don't absolutely need to, but we're going to remove the rotor just to give us a little bit more room.
Now we can begin to remove the strut. First thing you want to do is remove the sway bar end link. It's a 17mm nut on the back, and the front nut is an 18mm.
Now, we have to remove this ABS line. It's just secured with some clips. Just pop them out. There's another one on the side of the knuckle. Now, before we can move the strut bolts, we have to lower the car and support the control arm with a jack.
Now that we have the lower control arm supported with a jack, we can remove the strut nuts. They are a 24mm nut. You don't need anything on the bolt because the bolts are actually splined.
Now, to remove the bolts, you want to put the nut back on a few threads and then hit the nut with a hammer. You don't want to hit just the bolt or you could damage the threads.
Now, to remove the two bolts on the strut and spindle, we're going to remove two of these nuts on top of the strut, but we're going to leave one in. This is going to give us some play and allow for the bolts to come out a little easier.
Bill: This is one of the nice things about the Ridetech suspension kit is your front strut is a full direct replacement. We don't have to disassemble this, take nothing off of it. This is ready to go in as it is. In case you were wondering about the weight difference, not a huge weight difference. You're talking about a pound-and-a-half, roughly, lighter for the Ridetech versus stock setup.
Now, the Ridetech struts are side- specific so when you go to install them, this is going to face outward. You want to make sure this tab here, which is for your sway bar is facing the back of the car. Before it goes in the car, a couple of things you want to make sure of. These slotted holes here, you want to make sure the one is towards the outside, towards the wheel, these two towards the inside. Like I said, this whole thing is assembled. It doesn't mean it's already tight. Double check everything is tight before you put the assembly on the car.
Freddie: We're ready to install the new coil-over. We're going to start off by putting these three bolts and the strut mount. Now, we're going to install the coil-over. We're going to get it into the knuckle, and then try to line it up with the bolts on top. Now that we have the upper strut nuts and bolts hand tight, we're going to install the strut to the knuckle. First thing we're going to install is this hand bolt. It slides on with the washer, lock washer, and then the nut. Then on the bottom we're going to install a factory nut and bolt; and we reinstall the factory nut.
Now, we're going to reinstall the sway bar bracket. You might need to jack up the control arm a little bit, and we reinstall the factory nut. Now that we have everything loosely installed, we're going to start by tightening the top strut bolts. They are a 9/16 nut and bolt. All right, the upper strut nuts and bolts are tight. Now we can tighten up the knuckle.
Now, we're going to tighten the centric bolt on top of the knuckle. You want to make sure the washer is inside this indentation. You don't want it hanging over the edge. You want it seated properly before torqueing it.
Now, we're going to tighten the sway bar end link. Now, if go to tighten this and the shaft starts to spin, put an 18mm wrench on it, and then a 10mm socket on the shaft.
Now, reinstall the ABS sensor wire. Once you have everything assembled, Ridetech says to torque the strut bolts to 150 foot pounds.
All right, everything is tightened up. Just repeat the process on the other side.
Bill: Now, we'll move on to the back of the car. The first thing you have to do is get some of the stock components out of the way. We're going to start by taking the rear sway bar with the end link, because that does have to be relocated. Then we can remove our factory shocks and shock mounts; and finally, our factory springs.
Freddie: Now with the brake hose bracket removed, we can remove the sway bar. To remove this end link, it's a 6mm hex key, and an 18mm wrench.
The sway bar end link is off. Now, we can go on to the brackets that hold the sway bar to the body itself.
Bill: The next step will be just like a spring or shock replacement in the back. What we're going to do is disconnect the brackets up here, the line itself, and then unbolt the sub-frame and lower it down. Obviously, make sure you support the sub-frame before you take the bolts out. Then we can lower it down, remove the spring, and start the work on installing our coil-over.
We'll start with the bolt on the brake line. While you have that socket in your hand, there are two little support bolts for the bracket in front; remove those as well. You can just loosen them up. I find it easier just to remove them.
Before we let the sub-frame down, we'll remove the bolt from the top of the shock mount, we'll remove both sub-frame bolts, and lower everything down removing the shock and the spring.
Now the sub-frame is supported. Again, make sure you have a jack underneath it. We're going to remove the sub-frame bolts. Before we lower down the sub-frame, we're going to take off both these bolts to remove the shock. It gives us more room to get the spring out of the way.
Now, we're ready to assemble our rear coil-overs. We're going to start by turning this all the way clockwise until it's tight. We use a small torque spit to remove the adjuster. Take the adjuster sleeve, put it on from the bottom, like three turns to get it started. Now grab all your washers, and put that in place over the adjuster. Lower the spring down into place. Make sure it is seated properly. Now the washer on the top. Now the spring cap. Now this little ring, you basically put this down over the top here, and snap that into place.
What you want to do now is turn it upside down. Right now we have zero pre-load on our spring. What you want to do now is turn this, basically until the slack is gone. Not real tight against, but make sure it's tight enough against so that the spring, nothing is moving. Now we're at zero pre-load. To install this, what we're going to do is go 1/2" above zero pre-load; and use that as our starting point. What you'll do is measure the flat part of the bottom of the shock, up half an inch more than we're at now, and that'll be our set point we're going to start with. Ridetech includes a spanner wrench to adjust this. Again, we're going to adjust it up half an inch from zero pre-load.
Perfect, and just install the set screw. You don't have to crank this too tight. Just get it snug, so it's not going to move. Then reinstall the adjuster. That coil is ready to go on our car.
Since we're going with the coil over, the upper shock mount, then I'll have the pressure of the shock and the springs; so Ridetech beefs it up a little bit. What we're going to do next is bolt this into place using the new hardware, and we're going to drill two new holes at the bottom down here, and we're going to install the riv-nuts there. That way there will be four bolt holes to the chassis instead of just two.
Freddie: Now, we're going to mark the holes with a Sharpie, so we know where we're drilling. Then we're going to take off the bracket and drill the holes.
Bill: Ridetech provides this 17/32 drill bit to drill the holes for the riv-nuts. In my opinion, don't start with this bit. Start with an 1/8", something smaller; work your way up to the larger bit.
Ridetech includes this riv- nut installation tool which has this washer. Basically, the way it works is you put the riv-nut in, you thread this in until it touches, and then you're going to hold a wrench on this here to keep it tight while turning that. As you turn that, this will expand on the inside and hold your riv-nut in place. It is something you can do yourself. A two-man job makes it a lot easier; to have somebody to actually wrench it, while somebody else holds onto it.
This is what the riv-nut should look like when you're finished. You want to make sure you can see the threads. The threads are pulled toward the surface; the nut does not move at all. When you know it's installed properly, you can move onto the next step.
With the riv-nuts installed, now we can actually install the bracket using the supplied hardware by Ridetech. Put everything in loosely at first, and get it all lined up. Then go back and tighten it down.
Freddie: We're going to torque these top bolts to 65 foot pounds. All right. Now, we're going to torque the lower bolts to 23 foot pounds. Now we can install the lower mount.
Bill: Now we're ready to get our coil-over installed. Before we do that, you have to connect it to this bracket. What you want to do ... The bracket is going to mount with the round part facing the forward part of your car. Your coil-over is going to sit like that. Make sure you install it the correct way, so your adjuster is facing outward so you can actually reach it.
The first thing you need to do is take this square headed bolt; put that in the bottom here. We're going to take our aluminum spacers; put that in the bottom of the shock. We'll assemble the whole thing with the provided nut and bolt. All right, once assembled, then we're going to tighten down; and we're going to torque to 75 foot pound.
Freddie: Now with the coil-over and mount assembled, we can install this on the car. You want to make sure the coil-over is mounted on the rear of this bracket. Then once you have the coil-over in place, insert this 3/8 bolt into the other side of the bracket. Now install a washer and a nylon nut on the bottom. Now, we're going to reinstall our sub-frame bolts. Now we're going to torque the two big sub-frame bolts to 175 foot pounds. Now we're going to torque these smaller bolts to 55 foot pounds. Now that the sub-frame is properly torqued, we can jack up the control arm and line up the coil-over with the upper mount.
First thing you want to do is put the inserts on the shock itself. Slide it in. Put your bolt with the washer on it. Slide it through. Then the washer and nut on the other side. Now we can torque the upper coil-over bolt to 75 foot pounds. All right, now just repeat the process on the other side.
Now, we're going to be installing these sway bar relocation brackets. They move the sway bar slightly towards the rear of the vehicle. You want the smaller holes toward the rear of the bracket; and the bigger holes, which are the factory holes, towards the front of the bracket. They reinstall using the factory hardware. Now we're going to install the sway bar bracket on the other side.
Now that we have both coil-overs installed on the rear, and we have both sway bar relocation brackets, we can reinstall our sway bar. Attach the sway bar to the new relocation bracket using the provided hardware. Then do the same thing to the other bracket. Okay, our sway bar is now secured to the new relocation bracket; we can reinstall the end links.
All right, now we're going to reinstall our end link. Put it through the sway bar. This sway bar requires a special brake bracket. Your OEM sway bar will install the same way. This sway bar requires this bracket here. We're going to install the nut, and then the bolt through the brake hose bracket, and a nut behind it. Then tighten everything up. Now repeat the process on the other side, and your installation is finished.
Bill: Now that the installation is finished, we'll discuss the adjustability of the coil-over; because, honestly, that's why you something like this in the first place. Remember when we assembled the rear shocks, we went 1/2" above zero pre-load. We want an inch above pre-load on the front which is what Ridetech recommends for about an 1 1/2" - 1 3/4" drop. What you want to do as far as the adjustability, turn the rebound all the way up to full stiff. Then what you want to do, to start, is twenty clicks in the opposite direction.
That's going to be a fairly soft ride. You could go further down; but beyond that, it's too soft for any kind of performance driving. Start here, get your ride height where you want it, and then you can adjust the rebound to get the firmness; and you're ready to go.
My car's ride height is, honestly, about where it was before, the slight rake to the front; but that's where I wanted it. The benefit now is not only is the car lowered, but thanks to the Ridetech shocks and struts, it's fully adjustable. And the coil-overs, I can really dial in the height where I want it.
I do want to mention, when this install is done, the first thing you want to do is get the car aligned. You don't want to drive until you get a could alignment, make sure everything is in spec. As far as the installation, figure about five to six hours, probably, for the install, plus a little time to dial it in. Take your time, and you're back on the road in no time.