SSBC Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit Power 6 Cylinder Automatic Transmission 1964-1966

SSBC Brakes: A120-5
MSRP: $1,099.95
CJ's Low Price:
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SSBC Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit Power 6 Cylinder Automatic Transmission 1964-1966
SSBC Brakes

Product Description

SSBC Power Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for 1964-1966 6-Cylinder Mustangs with an Automatic Transmission.

Caliper Specs:
Type of Caliper - Standard
Number of Pistons - 1
Piston Size - 57mm
Constructed From - Cast Iron

Rotor Specs:
Diameter - 10.25"
Thickness - 0.875"
Venting - Uni Directional (straight vane)
Finish - Standard
Bolt Pattern - 4 x 4.5"

Kit Features:
-Pair of Rotors
-Pair of Calipers
-Front Brake Pads
-Dual Bowl Master Cylinder & 7" Single Diaphragm Booster
-Brake Hoses
-All Brackets, Bearings, Seals & Hardware

*Requires use of 14" or larger wheels
*Bolts to factory 6-cylinder spindles

Similar Mustang Parts

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Installation Instructions


Difficulty: Moderate

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

Product Reviews

Write a review
SSBC Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit Power 6 Cylinder Automatic Transmission 1964-1966 is rated 3.6 out of 5 by 5.
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Same problems as others The manufacturer, SSBC, dropped the ball and included the wrong sized spacers between the calipers and the lines. The first time I called customer support, I was literally told to "rap them with a hammer" until they fit. After demanding new parts, they were grudgingly shipped to me. Except they actually weren't, and I had to call again multiple times. The restoration shop I was working with was able to make it work with what we had and the brake kit works well, but it is not worth the headache. Can't fault CJs at all in this mess. They're always spot on.
Date published: 2016-06-23
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Some Challenges The kit and instructions are overall fairly good. What I mean is that the instructions from SSBC and CJ Pony Parts "Combined" were fairly easy to follow and probably 95% complete when used together. Important things to consider, set up your plumbing in the engine bay before adding the master cylinder and booster. Bending tubing and getting alignments would be much easier before installing the booster/MC parts. I changed to stainless hard lines which made some connections hard to seal...especially in the cramped area after the booster and MC are installed. Another trick I found was to use a 10 inch crescent wrench set between the booster and MC to hold the distribution block when tightening hard lines. The brake calipers were pretty easy to install...but getting the flex line banjo bolt to seal is something I'm still working on a month later. The instructions say torque to 20 ft lbs. At this value, I can not get a seal on the crush washer between the caliper and flex line. The circles cut into the face of the caliper are not concentric and I think the face is slightly off from the 90 degree line of the bolt. The frustrating part is that SSBC initially wanted to act like I had no clue what I was doing. Finally they admitted you MUST use a slightly thicker crush washer on the inside between the caliper and flex line. Then they promised to send the correct washers...and through a number of missed opportunities finally mailed them 3 weeks later...but not in time for me to do the work this the delay will be just over a month when I get to work on the car again. In the meantime I've experimented, and found that the crush washer will not fully imprint without torquing the banjo bolt to over 28 ft lbs. At that torque the circles on one side of the crush washer is perfect, and I can get rings all the way around the washer side to the caliper...just barely. Those rings do not imprint well, even with an annealed washer. The caliper side rings are well imprinted on about 95 % of the washer and just barely visible in the remaining 5%. These experiments were done with standard crush washers, not the thicker washers that I haven't received yet. My hope is the slightly thicker washer will imprint at less torque/ concern of course is too much torque on the hollow banjo bolt could cause it to break. I've been told to just keep tightening the banjo bolt until the leak stops, but I'm very nervous about that...and that suggestion was from someone else who did SSBC brakes on a corvette. The calipers and roter look awesome on the car, and the booster and MC look good in the engine bay. If you do your plumbing in the engine bay before install of the MC and booster, and can get a good seal on the caliper flex line connection (Thick washer on the inside connection) this is a great upgrade. I'll try to evaluate again once I get the washers and seal up the flex line connection...and most important get the car on the road.
Date published: 2016-04-30
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Not as expected Bought these for my son to have better stopping power. While I will say the do work better than the original breaks its not what i expected for the cost. Also there is little help in the directions and had to spend a lot of time don the phone with SSBC.
Date published: 2017-09-12
Rated 4 out of 5 by from What an upgrade Bought this kit with a little reservation because of the reviews about missing parts and wrong parts. After two 4 hour work sessions the kit is in and works great. It quadruples braking power from the original drums. Like others, I watched CJ's video and went through the written instructions(only reason this didn't get 5 stars). Just make sure to do both because the video kit is slightly different especially when it comes to the plumbing. Everything sealed up on the first try. They over compensated for the reviews on the banjo nut seal, I had 6 extra washers in the kit. The only difficulty I ran into was the depth of brake pedal. Even with the adjustable push rod at its longest, the braking range was too close to the floor board. So, I cut the old push rod and threaded it to fit the adjustable piece and now the pedal is in the sweet spot. Also, the brake light switch which worked before needed replacing, but that was simple. One last bit, the kit shows wheel spacers and talks about them in the instructions, but they were not included. Working that out because there is a light scraping sound upon a fully turned steering wheel (15" wheels). So, I guess my review includes missing parts and mods but totally worth it.
Date published: 2017-01-01
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Stock Wheel Challenge This is a follow up to my first review as groundburst: So I got everything buttoned up on the kit, got the replacement washers from SSBC, see my previous review. Once complete I installed the stock Ford 14 inch wheels. Spun them and heard scrunch, scrunch, noise...but thought it might be the pads slightly misaligned with the rotor. rolled it out of the garage and heard a g-dawg awful crunch, grind noise that vibrated through the whole car. I thought again maybe a misalignment of a brake pad...but on both sides??? Jacked up the car and checked the brakes...everything looked fine. I removed the wheels and I inspected the inside of the Ford stock steel wheels. Rub marks could be seen on both wheels. It seems Ford didn't have much in the way of quality control on the parts for the wheel. The inner section that is riveted to the outer wheel rim is stamped and shaped. The piece of the inner section that is turned back to allow the rivets to connect through the part is not the same all the way around the rim. In some places the turn back sticks further into the wheel toward the inside of the car. They varied by more than a 1/2 inch. On one wheel two of these flanged shaped surfaces were scraping the caliper (three on the other), but only on the leading edge. It took a little work, but I removed about 1/4 inch of the offending surfaces with a angle grinder and stopped the terrible noise, but it may not be enough at speed. I'm not sure how much clearance I've created...and when cornering these riveted steel wheels do flex. Since I was grinding on them...not a structural part of the wheel...I'll have to have them rebalanced. I'll know more when I can get the car on the street for a real test.
Date published: 2016-05-10
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Product Questions

I have a 64 1/2, which uses a pressure switch for the brake lights. Would this require that I buy the SSBC A0730 proportioning valve, or do the instructions include details on how to plumb the switch in?

Asked by: MKGCars
You would need to use this adapter,, I don't believe the instructions include this.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2017-08-28

will this kit work with standard 14x6 inch wheels

Asked by: 435hpman
This kit requires use of 14" or larger wheels. You would need to assemble the calipers onto the rotors and fit them to the wheels to make sure there are no interference issues prior to installing on the car.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-11-23

Can you use synthetic break fluid with this system.

Asked by: Louisr
You should only use dot 3 brake fluid.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-11-14

Would this kit work for a 65 Falcon. 6 cylinder, automatic with 4 lug 14 inch wheels?

Asked by: DalyCityFog
The vendor has not provided any information regarding cross-fitments of this part to any other model then what is listed.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-08-30

I am looking for the part number for the master cylinder only for this application. SSBC Brakes: A120-5 Thanks

Asked by: crashcfg
You would have to contact the manufacturer for the part number.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-08-08

So what pads and roters will I need to do future brake jobs on the car with this kit installed? 

Asked by: Groundburst
Mike at SSBC replied to my question with this response: 23183AC1A.. is the rotor number.. they are available $84.77 each if you need them. They also stated in a previous message that upgrade rotors were available. I did a part number look up on the SSBC site shortly after getting this message, and the part number did not come up with a part. It would make sense that they would have parts available....but I always get nervous when looking several years down the road for a non-standard part.
Answered by: Groundburst
Date published: 2017-05-12

I have a 1966 6 cylinder with  manual transmission. Why will this kit not work with a manual transmission?

Asked by: Must66
The brake booster would interfere with the clutch linkage.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2017-01-26

what steel brake lines will i need for this setup

Asked by: hktire
This kit includes everything you will need to connect to your factory setup.
Answered by: CJPP Dave
Date published: 2015-11-04
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