Mustang Clutch Equalizer Bar Kit (1967-1968) Installation Instructions
The Clutch Equalizer Bar Kit will fit 1967-1968 289/302 Mustangs.
Take the guess work out of rebuilding your equalizer bar! CJ Pony Parts offers this Clutch Equalizer Bar Kit for 1967-1968 289/302 Mustangs, which includes everything you need to rebuild the equalizer bar of your non-289 HiPo V8 1967-1968 Mustang.
Tools Required:
- SAE Ratcheting Wrench Combo
- 3/8-inch Ratchet & Sockets
- 3/8-inch Universal Joint
- Grease Gun
- Bent Needle Nose Pliers
Install Difficulty:
- Moderate Project
1. If you still have the original clutch equalizer on your car, start the installation of your new Mustang Clutch Equalizer Bar Kit by removing the springs on the upper and lower ends of the equalizer bar.
2. Remove the pins on the clutch rod and both ends of the upper clutch rod (one at the equalizer bar and the other behind the clutch pedal). As you can see in the picture below, my car incorrectly had cotter pins rather than the roller pins depicted in the shop manual.
3. Once all pins are removed, the clutch rods can be freed from the Mustang equalizer bar and the clutch pedal.
4. The easiest way to remove the equalizer bar is to unbolt the Mustang equalizer bar bracket (frame side pivot stud #7507) on the driver’s fender wall beneath the steering column. This is held in place by two bolts.
5. After these bots are removed, you should be able to lift the Mustang fender side of the equalizer enough to free the engine block end from the pivot (#7A531) and drop the equalizer bar and the bracket out of the car.
6. Replace the engine side pivot and washer (#7A531 and #34809-S), felt washer (#351517-S) and Mustang clutch equalizer bushing (#7543) and secure with the retaining clip (#7A629). You might notice the engine side pivot is shorter that your original one. Due to this, an additional stainless washer will not fit (I tried). I believe that is why the kit does not include part #371613-S (XX-202) that I highlighted in green on my diagram.
7. Now, repeat the process on the fender side pivot (#7507) placing the Mustang clutch equalizer felt washer (#351517-S) then the bushing (#7543) and secure with the retaining clip (#7A629). Place a liberal amount of lithium grease inside each end of the clutch equalizer bar (#7528). Install in the same manner as uninstall, by inserting the fender pivot into the equalizer bar and work onto the engine pivot while maneuvering the fender pivot bracket (#7507) into position.
8. The fender pivot (#7507) has grooved slots for adjustment. Ensure the free pivot without binding of the Mustang clutch equalizer bar, yet tight enough the equalizer bar can’t work itself free of the pivots. I left approximately 1/16-inch play on mine.
9. While under the car, replace Mustang clutch release lever boot. Ensure you get the flanges of rubber underneath the metal of the transmission housing to form a flush seal; a small flat head screw driver might help accomplish this.
10. Next insert the Mustang upper clutch rod (#7521) through the clutch rod boot (#7A533) and install the clutch rod boot in the firewall. Insert one of the clutch rod bushings (#7526); I also like to lubricate these with some grease. Insert the upper clutch rod and secure with a roller clip.
11. Install a clutch rod bushing in the bottom hole of the lower arm on the equalizer bar. Once again, I like to grease these plastic bushings. Use your old lower clutch rod as a guide to setting the adjustment (#7A528) on the new Mustang lower clutch rod (#7521). Check the clearance for full range of motion. I had to trip approximately 1.25” of thread off my new rod to be clear of the headers. Install the lower clutch rod (#7521) by inserting the adjustment block (7A528) through bushing in the bottom hole and secure with roller clip. Set the pointed end of the clutch rod in the recess on the clutch release lever. Finally add the release lever spring (#7591) to the release lever and the top hole of the lower arm on the equalizer bar.
12. Install a clutch rod bushing in the bottom hole of the lower arm on the equalizer bar. Once again, I like to grease these plastic bushings. Use your old lower clutch rod as a guide to setting the adjustment (#7A528) on the new clutch rod (#7521). Check the clearance for full range of motion. I had to trip approximately 1.25-inch of thread off my new rod to be clear of the headers. Install the lower clutch rod (#7521) by inserting the adjustment block (7A528) through bushing in the bottom hole and secure with roller clip. Set the pointed end of the clutch rod in the recess on the clutch release lever. Finally add the release lever spring (#7591) to the release lever and the top hole of the lower arm on the equalizer bar, which finishes the installation of your new Mustang Clutch Equalizer Bar Kit.
