Roush Fender Flare Kit With LED Lighting F-150 2015-2017
Roush:
422013
Highlights
- Matte Black Finish
- Easy Install
- Uses OE Attachment Points
- Made In The USA
MSRP $1,199.99
$979.99 You save 18%
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Product Description
Roush Fender Flare Kit with LED Lighting for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 F-150s.
Continue to enhance the overall appearance of your 2015-2017 F-150 by ordering this Roush Fender Flare Kit with LED Lighting. This kit will provide your truck with one-of-a-kind styling and improved body protection, while making room for adding other off-road upgrades and accessories.
Kit Includes:
- Set of Four Wheel Flares
- LED Light Kit
- All Necessary Mounting Hardware
When you purchase Roush's 422013 fender flare kit, you'll receive a set of four flares, one for each wheel on your F-150. These identical flares will not only help give your truck that off-road appearance, but also accommodate for any aggressive wheel & tire upgrades and lift kits you put on. Each flare is easily mounted into place using your OE attachment points. You'll also get segment unique LED lighting to give your truck a legitimate tactical style with the flares while also keeping it compliant with vehicle safety regulations. Roush also makes sure to include all of the necessary mounting hardware you'll need to install everything into place and get it done right.
Features & Benefits:
- Fits all F-150 Models
- OEM Matte Black Finish that is Easily Paintable
- Adds up to 2-3/4" of Tire Coverage
- Utilizes Dura-Flex 2000 that is 100% UV Protected
- Compatible with Aftermarket Bumpers
- Easy Install Using OE Attachment Points
- Made in the USA
Roush designs this assembly to fit all F-150 models, adding up to 2-3/4" of tire coverage from the wheel well sheet metal. Completely made in the USA, this kit is compatible with any factory or aftermarket bumper. Each flare has an OEM matte black finish that is easy to paint to match the rest of your truck's exterior style. Roush also uses Dura-Flex 2000 that is 100% UV protected to last for plenty of years to come without any chalking.
*Minor drilled will be necessary to properly route the LED wiring.
Please Note: This kit is NOT compatible with F-150 models that are installed with the Technology Package option 68T.
Like all of the parts available from Roush Performance, you can achieve a major performance overhaul or add some visual styling that will make your F-150 stand apart from the crowd. CJ Pony Parts is a Roush Top 10 Dealer and has over several parts from Roush Performance for many different years and models of F-150, many of which are in stock and ready to ship today.
So purchase Roush's 422013 Fender Flare Kit with LED Lighting for your 2015, 2016 or 2017 F-150 from CJ Pony Parts today!
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Related Categories: Ford F-150 Parts, F-150 Body & Appearance, F-150 Fender Flares
Installation & Fitment
Installation Difficulty
Moderate
Intermediate skill is required for this installation.
Installation Videos
Video Transcript
If you've been following our project F-150 EcoBoost, you've seen we've done a lot of LED upgrades and some
performance modifications as well. Well now, things are getting a little serious and we plan on modifying the
suspension and getting some nice wheels and tires. To prepare for the bigger tires, we're going to be installing
a Roush Fender Flare kit on our on project F-150 EcoBoost.
These fender flares will give our truck a much more aggressive look while covering the bigger tires to protect the paint and keep the truck legal and also feature marker LED's on each flare. These fender flares install using the factory mounting joints and all necessary hardware and wiring is included.
Tools you'll need for this installation: A quarter inch ratchet, 5.5 millimeter socket, 7 millimeter socket, 8 millimeter socket, 10 millimeter socket, an extension, a trim removal tool, flat head screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers, some sort of cutting device, marker, a drill, an 11/16 drill bit or a universal bit and safety glasses.
If you're wondering, these fender flares do work if your truck has factory fender flares and you will need to remove them if your truck does however, our truck doesn't have them so we won't need to be removing them. What we will need to remove are the headlights so we can run the wiring for the marker lights. To remove the headlight, this front trim panel has to come off. It's secured using a clip and two screws in the back. With a 7 millimeter socket you can remove the two screws on the back.
Grab the panel and lift it away from the truck and then forward and it will pop right off. Remove the seven screws holding this bottom molding. With the bolts out you can now remove the trim clip. Grab yourself a set of needle nose pliers and pinch this clip right here. Pull this tab down with a screwdriver and pull it out. There's three bolts holding in the headlight. Two up top and one back in here. Lift up on the tab right here and pull out and disconnect your lights.
We're going to be running the wiring across the radiator here so you need to remove this upper panel and the sides. There's four clips holding this panel on. Just let it hang down. With both lights out we can now run the wiring harness. We're going to take the front wiring harness with the relay and run the relay over toward the passenger side of the truck and run this on top of the radiator. I'm not going to secure this just yet on top of the grill. We're going to get everything mounted over here connected to the battery and then we'll clean up the wiring as we go.
Before we do any sorts of wiring, we're going to disconnect the battery just to be safe. We're going to remove this 10 millimeter bolt here to mount the relay. Reinstall the bolt with the relay. Grab the wire and you're going to run it up into the engine compartment behind the washer reservoir. You're going to run this harness around the battery. Remove this 8 millimeter bolt and secure the ground wire to it. There's two covers to the fuse box. You're going to remove both. We're going to be removing the nut on this terminal to connect the positive terminal on the harness to it.
You can put this cover back on now. Locate fuse 113 in your fuse box, which is the 7 and half amp fuse right here and pull it out. Take the fuse that you just removed and install into the fuse cap of the wire harness. There we go. We're going to cut a little notch right here in the fuse box to allow clearance for the wire to come through. With the notch cut in the fuse panel and the fuse reinstalled in the fuse tap, you can reinstall in the fuse holder 113. Now reinstall the cover.
Leave everything loose for now. You don't need to clean up the wiring until everything is connected. You want to make sure you have enough wiring to connect everything. Roush supplies you this template with the instructions. What you're going to do, you're going to put this template over the front trim here and there's a dot right here for where you want to drill a hole. This is where the LED is going to come through the panel. You're going to mark this, drill an 11/16th hole, then put it on the truck and drill through the panel behind it. I'm going to poke a hole through this hole with a Phillips head screwdriver. You can use anything, really, just to poke a hole. I'm doing it just so I can use that to mark it with a Sharpie. Now I know where to drill the hole. We're going to start off using a smaller drill bit to make a pilot hole and then we'll use the 11/16ths drill bit.
Now just flip the template over and repeat the process on the other side. Now we have to drill a hole in this piece for the harness to go through. We're going to loosely install this trim panel. Now we'll put the outer cover on. Now we can see where we need to drill a hole. Mark it. Now you can remove this panel and drill it out. Now repeat the process on the other side for this panel as well. With this hole drilled, you can remove the panel. Now we're going to run the wiring. We're just going to loosely run this wire over here, we're not going to make it super clean right now. We're going to clean it up at the end. We're just going to get the pigtail over to this corner.
This is about where the harness needs to be. You can run this section up here. Now we can reinstall the headlight, connect the light and put on the flare. Pull the harness out here. Now install the headlight. You can reinstall this outer trim piece but, before you install it put the harness through the hole that you drilled. Grab the outer panel, put the harness through the hole that you drilled. Snap it into place. We did not reinstall the two screws securing this outer trim panel on because now we have to remove the five screws over here. There's three on the wheel well in this area and then two screws here that we have to remove. These are all 5.5 millimeter.
Grab your flare retaining bracket which is side specific. This one is labeled LF for driver side front, or left front, and install three J clips in the three mounting holes. Now you can install this in the truck using these three screw holes for the three screws that you removed from the wheel well. As you can see on this flare, there's 8 mounting holes. The two up here mount on the headlight molding and the three right here mount on the retainer that we just installed. These two mount on the lower part of the wheel well but, this one does not have a hole. What we need to do, is put this J clip on the truck with this rubber pad so it doesn't scratch the paint and then we can put a screw through the flare into the J clip.
We made a mark where this J clip needs to go, so we're going to peel the backing of the rubber pad. You want to make sure the surface is clean when you do this. Put the pad on and slide the J clip over it. Now we can install the flare. Now is a good time to test to make sure the lights work before you install the flares. In order to test them just turn the ignition on and now they work so you can go ahead and finish the install.
The LED is going to get sandwiched between this plate and the fender flare with 3M tape so we're going to use this adhesive promoter and wipe it down. You're going to let that sit for a minute before you put anything on it. Apply the adhesive tape and the LED. It doesn't use any screws. It just goes on like this. Get is seated nicely in the flare and push down. You can now plug in the LED. The white wire goes to the white wire and the yellow wire goes to the yellow wire. Get it in place and make sure this rubber trim is fully seated so you don't scratch your paint and install all the screws.
I'm installing the factory screws first. You can do it in whatever order you would like but, I'm just installing the factory screws first. Install the remaining four Phillips head screws that are provided. With the fender flare installed you can repeat the process on the other side and then move to the rear.
We're going to start off the rear of the truck by running this rear engine harness from the engine bay down the frame rail to the rear of the truck. Now we're going to run this wire up behind the fender liner into the engine compartment. I'm hanging up zip ties right now just to hang the liner up. I'm not making it super tight just in case I need more slack or need to take slack away. I'm just putting zip ties up just to hang it so it's not on the ground. Run the harness through the hole that's already in the rear wheel well.
For the rear fender flares Roush provides a template so you can drill holes for a cleaner install but, you won't need to drill holes here and right here. We really don't want to be drilling holes in the body of our truck. You guys can do it if you want but, we just don't want to put holes in our truck right now. We're going to try to install these fender flares without drilling any holes. There's four mounting holes on the inside of this fender flare and there's no mounting points on the rear fender so you need mark locations on the rear fender to install J clips to secure the flare. Put the flare in place and mark the holes.
Where you mark the holes you're going to apply this rubber pad and then the J clips. Fold this around the edge and the put the J clip on. You're going to the same thing for all four mounting locations. You're going to install this threaded clip into this hole on the bottom of the fender. If your truck came with the lip kit, you have a hole on the front and back of this fender. Ours didn't so we only have this one and if you want to you can drill a hole up front for another clip but, like I said earlier, we're going to try not to drill any holes in the metal of our truck. We're going to the same thing on the rear flares that we did up front. We're going to apply adhesive promoter to the molding and then the 3M tape.
Pop the LED into the hole. Push down to secure the tape. Connect the LED now. Red wire goes to red and the white goes to white. All right so it looks like we installed this without having to drill any holes. Repeat the process on the other side, clean up the wiring and your installation is finished. If the weather stripping on here becomes misaligned or falls in, they supply this tool that helps you pull the weather stripping out. This wiring harness has auxiliary lighting pigtails, we're not going to use them so we're just going to lay them on top here underneath the cover, and the final clip.
Our Roush fender flares are installed, they look great. They make this truck a lot more aggressive even with the stock wheels and tires but, we do plan on modifying the suspension and getting some bigger tires in the future. The installation should take you about 4 to 6 hours depending on how much you want to tuck the wiring. Before you know it, you'll be heading down the road.
These fender flares will give our truck a much more aggressive look while covering the bigger tires to protect the paint and keep the truck legal and also feature marker LED's on each flare. These fender flares install using the factory mounting joints and all necessary hardware and wiring is included.
Tools you'll need for this installation: A quarter inch ratchet, 5.5 millimeter socket, 7 millimeter socket, 8 millimeter socket, 10 millimeter socket, an extension, a trim removal tool, flat head screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers, some sort of cutting device, marker, a drill, an 11/16 drill bit or a universal bit and safety glasses.
If you're wondering, these fender flares do work if your truck has factory fender flares and you will need to remove them if your truck does however, our truck doesn't have them so we won't need to be removing them. What we will need to remove are the headlights so we can run the wiring for the marker lights. To remove the headlight, this front trim panel has to come off. It's secured using a clip and two screws in the back. With a 7 millimeter socket you can remove the two screws on the back.
Grab the panel and lift it away from the truck and then forward and it will pop right off. Remove the seven screws holding this bottom molding. With the bolts out you can now remove the trim clip. Grab yourself a set of needle nose pliers and pinch this clip right here. Pull this tab down with a screwdriver and pull it out. There's three bolts holding in the headlight. Two up top and one back in here. Lift up on the tab right here and pull out and disconnect your lights.
We're going to be running the wiring across the radiator here so you need to remove this upper panel and the sides. There's four clips holding this panel on. Just let it hang down. With both lights out we can now run the wiring harness. We're going to take the front wiring harness with the relay and run the relay over toward the passenger side of the truck and run this on top of the radiator. I'm not going to secure this just yet on top of the grill. We're going to get everything mounted over here connected to the battery and then we'll clean up the wiring as we go.
Before we do any sorts of wiring, we're going to disconnect the battery just to be safe. We're going to remove this 10 millimeter bolt here to mount the relay. Reinstall the bolt with the relay. Grab the wire and you're going to run it up into the engine compartment behind the washer reservoir. You're going to run this harness around the battery. Remove this 8 millimeter bolt and secure the ground wire to it. There's two covers to the fuse box. You're going to remove both. We're going to be removing the nut on this terminal to connect the positive terminal on the harness to it.
You can put this cover back on now. Locate fuse 113 in your fuse box, which is the 7 and half amp fuse right here and pull it out. Take the fuse that you just removed and install into the fuse cap of the wire harness. There we go. We're going to cut a little notch right here in the fuse box to allow clearance for the wire to come through. With the notch cut in the fuse panel and the fuse reinstalled in the fuse tap, you can reinstall in the fuse holder 113. Now reinstall the cover.
Leave everything loose for now. You don't need to clean up the wiring until everything is connected. You want to make sure you have enough wiring to connect everything. Roush supplies you this template with the instructions. What you're going to do, you're going to put this template over the front trim here and there's a dot right here for where you want to drill a hole. This is where the LED is going to come through the panel. You're going to mark this, drill an 11/16th hole, then put it on the truck and drill through the panel behind it. I'm going to poke a hole through this hole with a Phillips head screwdriver. You can use anything, really, just to poke a hole. I'm doing it just so I can use that to mark it with a Sharpie. Now I know where to drill the hole. We're going to start off using a smaller drill bit to make a pilot hole and then we'll use the 11/16ths drill bit.
Now just flip the template over and repeat the process on the other side. Now we have to drill a hole in this piece for the harness to go through. We're going to loosely install this trim panel. Now we'll put the outer cover on. Now we can see where we need to drill a hole. Mark it. Now you can remove this panel and drill it out. Now repeat the process on the other side for this panel as well. With this hole drilled, you can remove the panel. Now we're going to run the wiring. We're just going to loosely run this wire over here, we're not going to make it super clean right now. We're going to clean it up at the end. We're just going to get the pigtail over to this corner.
This is about where the harness needs to be. You can run this section up here. Now we can reinstall the headlight, connect the light and put on the flare. Pull the harness out here. Now install the headlight. You can reinstall this outer trim piece but, before you install it put the harness through the hole that you drilled. Grab the outer panel, put the harness through the hole that you drilled. Snap it into place. We did not reinstall the two screws securing this outer trim panel on because now we have to remove the five screws over here. There's three on the wheel well in this area and then two screws here that we have to remove. These are all 5.5 millimeter.
Grab your flare retaining bracket which is side specific. This one is labeled LF for driver side front, or left front, and install three J clips in the three mounting holes. Now you can install this in the truck using these three screw holes for the three screws that you removed from the wheel well. As you can see on this flare, there's 8 mounting holes. The two up here mount on the headlight molding and the three right here mount on the retainer that we just installed. These two mount on the lower part of the wheel well but, this one does not have a hole. What we need to do, is put this J clip on the truck with this rubber pad so it doesn't scratch the paint and then we can put a screw through the flare into the J clip.
We made a mark where this J clip needs to go, so we're going to peel the backing of the rubber pad. You want to make sure the surface is clean when you do this. Put the pad on and slide the J clip over it. Now we can install the flare. Now is a good time to test to make sure the lights work before you install the flares. In order to test them just turn the ignition on and now they work so you can go ahead and finish the install.
The LED is going to get sandwiched between this plate and the fender flare with 3M tape so we're going to use this adhesive promoter and wipe it down. You're going to let that sit for a minute before you put anything on it. Apply the adhesive tape and the LED. It doesn't use any screws. It just goes on like this. Get is seated nicely in the flare and push down. You can now plug in the LED. The white wire goes to the white wire and the yellow wire goes to the yellow wire. Get it in place and make sure this rubber trim is fully seated so you don't scratch your paint and install all the screws.
I'm installing the factory screws first. You can do it in whatever order you would like but, I'm just installing the factory screws first. Install the remaining four Phillips head screws that are provided. With the fender flare installed you can repeat the process on the other side and then move to the rear.
We're going to start off the rear of the truck by running this rear engine harness from the engine bay down the frame rail to the rear of the truck. Now we're going to run this wire up behind the fender liner into the engine compartment. I'm hanging up zip ties right now just to hang the liner up. I'm not making it super tight just in case I need more slack or need to take slack away. I'm just putting zip ties up just to hang it so it's not on the ground. Run the harness through the hole that's already in the rear wheel well.
For the rear fender flares Roush provides a template so you can drill holes for a cleaner install but, you won't need to drill holes here and right here. We really don't want to be drilling holes in the body of our truck. You guys can do it if you want but, we just don't want to put holes in our truck right now. We're going to try to install these fender flares without drilling any holes. There's four mounting holes on the inside of this fender flare and there's no mounting points on the rear fender so you need mark locations on the rear fender to install J clips to secure the flare. Put the flare in place and mark the holes.
Where you mark the holes you're going to apply this rubber pad and then the J clips. Fold this around the edge and the put the J clip on. You're going to the same thing for all four mounting locations. You're going to install this threaded clip into this hole on the bottom of the fender. If your truck came with the lip kit, you have a hole on the front and back of this fender. Ours didn't so we only have this one and if you want to you can drill a hole up front for another clip but, like I said earlier, we're going to try not to drill any holes in the metal of our truck. We're going to the same thing on the rear flares that we did up front. We're going to apply adhesive promoter to the molding and then the 3M tape.
Pop the LED into the hole. Push down to secure the tape. Connect the LED now. Red wire goes to red and the white goes to white. All right so it looks like we installed this without having to drill any holes. Repeat the process on the other side, clean up the wiring and your installation is finished. If the weather stripping on here becomes misaligned or falls in, they supply this tool that helps you pull the weather stripping out. This wiring harness has auxiliary lighting pigtails, we're not going to use them so we're just going to lay them on top here underneath the cover, and the final clip.
Our Roush fender flares are installed, they look great. They make this truck a lot more aggressive even with the stock wheels and tires but, we do plan on modifying the suspension and getting some bigger tires in the future. The installation should take you about 4 to 6 hours depending on how much you want to tuck the wiring. Before you know it, you'll be heading down the road.
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