Between hot-rodding tricks, custom tunes, aerodynamic adjustments, and reducing weight there are plenty of ways to nickel and dime your Mustang GT up to an outrageous horsepower.
Or you could just supercharge it.
Roush and Ford Performance teamed up to make a supercharger for 2018 and 2019 Mustang GTs that promises huge performance gains and is designed to work very specifically with the Coyote engine in your GT.
Twin Vortices Series Superchargers
Superchargers come in a lot of different packages. The Roush 2550 is a twin vortices series supercharger, frequently abbreviated to TVS. The first TVS supercharger was manufactured in 1985 for Eaton and was exclusively high-end, used in cars like Lotuses and Ferraris.
What makes TVS design so special is that it uses four lobes instead of the traditional three. All superchargers, regardless of design, are able to deliver on their performance boosting promises by increasing the pressure and density of air to the engine. More lobes equals more air, but also the inner rotors are positioned so that the additional air can be stored for longer. The result is more air, less loss of energy, and less heat. Overall, TVS styled superchargers are about 12 percent more efficient than other superchargers.
For the 2018 and 2019 GT that's enough to take its pretty darn good 460 horsepower and 420 lb-ft of torque and amplify it enough to catapult the GT into Shelby territory. Using the Roush supercharger, you can elevate your GT to more than 700 horsepower.
Will a Supercharger Void My Warranty?
This is a great question, and one that a lot of enthusiasts have given that customizing your car is awesome but so is having a warranty.
The first thing you should know is that thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act the dealer would have to prove that your aftermarket modifications in some way contributed to the mechanical failure. This means that if you install a short-throw shifter but then are having trouble with your brakes, the two are obviously unrelated and your brakes would still be covered.
That said, a supercharger installs to your engine, so it's good to have some questions.
As long as your supercharger is installed by a Ford dealer or ASE certified mechanic the Roush supercharger won’t affect your warranty, and the supercharger itself comes with a three-year or 36,000-mile warranty as well.
In this video, Bill walks us through every step in one very informative video. These steps will follow the ones below but show the actions associated with each stage of the install. If you're invested in doing the installation yourself, watching the video and then using the steps below will make sure your installation gets started right.
Roush and Ford Performance outdid themselves with this supercharger and we couldn't be happier with the results. If you're looking for the best way to add a lot of horsepower to your GT, then this supercharger is a great way to do it.
Supercharger Installation How-To
If you care less about the warranty and would prefer to install your supercharger yourself, these are our instructions for how to spend one of the most mechanically fascinating weekends of your life. Even if you aren't interested in installing it yourself, it's worth reading through the steps just to understand everything that's coming with your supercharger and how it works together to create such an unbelievable power bump.
Roush has also provided a handy PDF on the proper installation of their supercharger.
A supercharger install is a lot to take it at once, so we've divided it into three sections.
Section 1 - Dissamble Stock Components
Section 2 - Modify Stock Components
Section 3 - Supercharger Installations
Please Note: This guide is a tool to help you install the parts on your vehicle. If you don’t feel confident in performing this installation properly on your own, have a professional install the parts for you.
- Vehicle lift or Jack Stands
- 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch Ratchets with Extensions
- Metric and Standard Socket Sets
- Metric and Standard Wrench Sets
- 3/8” Drive Torque Wrench
- 6” Scale
- Assembly Lubricant
- Electrical Tape
- Sharp Knife or Razor
- Medium Strength Thread Locker
- T-20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
- 5/16 Inch Drill Bits and Motor
- 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet or Breaker Bar
- Short Phillips-Head Screwdriver
- 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Removal Tool
- Heat Gun
- Trim Pad Tool
- Fender Covers
- 6.9mm Drill Bit
- M8 x 1.25 Tap
Disassemble Stock Components
- Locate the underhood fuse panel and remove the fuse for the fuel pump (which will be either 48 or 49, consult your owner's manual). Once you've pulled the fuse, start your car and let it run till it dies, which drains pressure from the fuel system. Turn the ignition to the off position afterwards.
- Loosen the retaining nuts and then disconnect the positive and negative battery connections.
- The PCM will need to be removed and flashed, to do this remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the PCM in place, then pull forward and lift out of engine compartment.
Tech Tip: If you're sending your PCM to Roush for flashing, as a bonus, you can send in your warranty card at the same time.
- Remove the close-out panel from underneath your car. This will require removing the nineteen lower closeout panel bolts and six pushpins.
Tech Tip: Keep bolts and pins that you'll be reusing in a small labeled container like a ziplock bag to avoid a potential headache later.
- Remove cap from degas bottle and drain the coolant from the petcock located on the lower passenger side of the radiator.
Tech Tip: Use a clean container and save the coolant for later use.
- If you have a strut tower brace, an intake cover, or anything else that might block the path of the supercharger you'll need to remove it.
- Disconnect the brake aspirator line and PCV tube from the clean air tube and then remove clean air tube from throttle body. The clean air tube will not be reused. Remove the MAF sensor, the air filter, and the throttle body electrical connector. Disconnect the evaporative emission canister purge valve.
- Carefully disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel rail on the driver's side and disconnect the fuel supply line from the DI pump on the passenger's side. Tape up fuel supply lines afterwards
Tech Tip: Use a rag under the lines the catch any excess fuel during disconnection.
- First remove the two nuts that secure the brake boost vacuum hose to the cylinder head. Then, remove hose from firewall on driver's side and carefully set aside for modification later.
- On both the driver's and passenger's side, remove the fuel rail covers from the cylinder heads. This will require removing two nuts with a 10 mm socket.
- Disconnect the heater feed and return hoses located the front of the driver's side and passenger's side head intake flanges.
- Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor from the fuel rail on the driver's side.
- Disconnect each of the four fuel injectors on the driver's and passenger's side, eight in total.
- Disconnect the clamps on the hose ends from the 3/8 inch hose that goes from engine to degas bottle and remove hose.
- Remove the four fuel rail bolts and carefully save since they will be reused. Then lift and remove fuel rail.
- Remove intake manifold. There will be six intake manifold bolts that will require a 10 mm socket to remove. Disconnect the CMCV harness connector and remove harness from intake. Disconnect the four harness connectors carefully. Do not damage the harness.
- Use tape to cover the intake ports so that they don't become contaminated.
- Disconnect the vent hose from the engine coolant degas bottle and the water pump inlet. Disconnect the clamp on the end of the upper radiator hose and then push the clip down on the connector to remove the radiator hose.
Tech Tip: Use a rag under radiator hose to catch extra coolant.
- Disconnect the electric fan harness connector. Remove the two bolts connecting the shroud to the cooling module. Then, remove the electric fan and shroud assembly from vehicle.
- Release tension from front end accessory drive belt by rotating tensioner counter clockwise. Then remove and set the belt carefully aside.
- Carefully remove and set aside the three 10mm bolts securing the water pump pulley and then remove the water pump pulley.
- Remove the A/C compressor belt. Since this belt will not be reused, you can simply cut it and discard.
- Remove heater hoses and carefully set aside.
- Before moving on to section II of installation, cover up the radiator hose port, inlet port, PCV port, and heater feed tube with tape.
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Modify Stock Components
- Take brake booster aspirator hose assembly and remove hose from hardline. Keep all clamps from this process since they will be reused.
- Release the clamp and remove the check valve from the straight end of the hose.
- The other section of hose has foam wrapped around it. Carefully remove this foam since it will also be reused.
- Once the foam has been removed, disassemble the remaining brake aspirator assembly, taking care to preserve all of the clamps.
- You will be left with an aspirator assembly that has four ports. Take the check valve, brake aspirator hose, and plug from your Roush Supercharger kit and attach them appropriately. The plug will go diagonally from the half-inch grey port and the brake booster hose will be attached on the other end of the same side as the plug.
- On the two grey ends of the brake aspirator, you will install the hose that will go to the clean air tube and the hose that will go to the supercharger.
- Rewrap the brake aspirator assembly with the foam from earlier.
- Cut the old removed hoses to get the PCV fitting.
- Install PCV fitting into the clean air hose, which will be the hose that does not have the right angle.
- Remove the old hose from the emissions cannister purge line. This will not be reused, so it may be cut.
- Install the new extension hose to the purge valve and secure it with supplied clamp.
- Take supplied paper template and line up against fan shroud.
- Using template, mark on radiator fan where to drill and where to create cutouts.
Tech Tip: Move template away and then realign to make sure that marks are accurate before actually drilling.
- Use a drill to punch out holes where marked and use a dremel to shave away plastic for cutouts.
- Locate the portions of the timing cover to be drilled. Before continuing to modify the timing cover, make sure your engine is covered and protected so nothing is damaged by metal shards.
- Locate a boss that is nearly center on the passenger's side cylinder head, where the intake cover will rest. This boss will be surrounded by three ribs. Carefully grind the boss down to the same height as the ribbing around it.
- Locate the boss that needs to be drilled. It will be to the right of the boss you just ground down. It will need to be drilled to a depth of 35 mm.
Tech Tip: Use a stop on your drill bit so that it won't go too deep.
- Once it's been drilled, tap the hole to 25 mm. Vacuum the metal shavings out of the hole and clean the entire area.
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- Install the electrical harness for the intercooler pump. Route and tuck the harness under the engine harness and around to the rear of the cylinder head and to the driver's side.
- Separate the radio capacitor from the retainer and cut off the retainer. Plug the intercooler harness in between the two.
- On the passenger's side, remove the 8 mm bolt near the strut tower and install the fuse holder and relay from the wiring harness. Then reinstall the bolt.
- The power wire will go to the fuse box and attach there and the ground eyelet will connect to the existing ground wire.
- Route the other end of the harness down between the frame rail and washer bottle. This will be connected to the intercooler pump later.
- Route the MAF to MAP harness behind the cylinder heads and connect the two small connectors to the corresponding colors.
Tech Tip: Use zip ties to connect the MAF harness to the engine harness all the way around the cylinder heads.
- In order to connect the MAF to the PCM Connector you will need to clear a path which may involve unplugging multiple other connections as well. The PCM will be near the wiper fluid bottle at the front of the vehicle.
- Carefully remove the back cover, taking care to keep the tabs from being broken.
- Remove the gray front of the plug in the same manner as you removed the rear cover.
- Using a very small screwdriver, punch out the blanks in location 12, 28, and 80. The black wire will connect to location 12, the red will connect to 28, and the green will connect to 80.
Tech Tip: You will hear a light click when the wires are in place.
- Put back and front covers back into place and reconnect PCM and any other plugs that may have been disconnected.
- To install the throttle body adaptor module, first connect the adapter and then run along passenger side. The power wire will need to connect to the fuse box.
- Plug the sent module adaptor into the factor throttle body connector, cutting off any tape that may be in the way.
- Mount the module inside the battery box using double sided tape. Connect the red power wire into the post on the fuse box and reinstall bolt. Secure sent module adaptor harness to the engine harness using zip ties.
- The knock sensors, located in the valley in between the cylinder heads, will need to be adjusted to allow for more clearance. Remove and discard 10 mm bolts.
- Reorient the wiring harness and rewrap the wires with tape as needed. Once knock sensors are oriented downwards install the new provided bolts and torque to 20 NM.
- Factory spark plugs will need to be removed and replaced with the supplied spark plugs.
Tech Tip: Even though the new spark plugs should already be gap checked, recheck plugs before installation. They should be gapped to .028-.031 inches.
- With brackets facing up, place rubber grommets and metal fittings into bottom corners of new radiator.
- On the back of the radiator, glue foam around the edges.
- Apply strips of foam to the upper intercooler brackets.
- Add rubber grommets to the intercooler brackets.
Tech Tips: Use the Roush logo to orient the brackets and make sure you're installing the grommets correctly.
- Add foam to the intercooler reservoir bottle, using one strip of foam on the curve and the other strip on the bottom.
- Connect the reservoir to pump hose with a shrink clamp to the intercooler reservoir and use a heat gun to shrink the fitting to size.
- Attach the rubber hose section from PCV purge to the fitting on the bottom of the intake manifold and secure it.
- Connect the SIP sensor to the side of the intake manifold and secure with provided bolt. Torque to 10 NM.
- Add o-ring, or gasket, for throttle body and seat carefully into the groove on the supercharger.
- Add throttle body and make sure that the electronics are facing the pulley. Install the four provided bolts and torque to 10 NM.
- Install supercharger's pulley onto the supercharger shaft. Put a dab of loctite onto each bolt prior to installation and torque to 10 NM.
- Carefully remove clips from the stock fuel rail.
- Remove sensor from the stock fuel rail.
- Install sensor into new fuel rail. Hold the nut with a 19 mm wrench and use a 27 mm socket to torque the nut to 53 lb-in and then angle tighten 25 degrees.
- Install the fuel injectors into the new fuel rail using the clips from the stock fuel rail to secure.
Tech Tip: Add a dab of petroleum jelly to help the injectors get seated.
- Take air filter and install onto the MAP tube, make sure the arrow is facing downward and attach with provided clamp, torqued to 3-5 NM.
- Take MAP tube assembly and place through airbox tray opening. Bolt together using two bolts torqued to 10 NM.
- Remove rubber grommets and metal sleeves as well as the rubber mounting isolator from factory airbox and use for Roush airbox.
- Install supplied rubber hoses onto the ends of the intercooler piping. Place shrink clamps on connections and use heat gun to fit to size.
Tech Tip: On the high setting, it should only take 35 seconds to secure each shrink band.
- Remove the tape from the cylinder heads and give all surfaces a final wipe down. Route the PCV hose under the DI fuel rail. Move intake manifold to car and lower, then connect MAF sensor.
- On the firewall, loosen the bolt and rotate ground wire towards the brake booster and then retighten.
- Lightly bolt down the intake manifold, but do not torque down yet.
- Place the intercooler hardline in position and connect the hoses to the tubes on the rear of the intake manifold. When finished, the PCV hose should be routed around the injector tube and towards the driver's side cam cover. Once they're in place, proceed to next step.
- Torque the bolts down on the intake manifold in this specific order: First, the bolt that's center on the passenger's side, then center on the driver's side, then rear on the passenger's side, then rear on the driver's side, then front on the passenger's side, and then finally front on the driver's side. Torque in two stages, first to 10 NM then tighten an additional 45 degrees.
- Connect the ACT sensor to the intake manifold.
- Install the fuel rails. Line up the injectors and place gently before reinstalling bolts. The longer Roush bolts will go into the lower holes while the shorter bolts will go on top. Torque to 10 NM and then tighten an additional 45 degrees in the same order as the intake manifold.
- Connect the fuel pressure sensor and all eight fuel injector electrical connectors.
- Install bracket for pulley. Four bolts will be standard bracket to engine bolts, but one bolt will be to the intake in the upper left corner. All five bolts should be tightened to 25 NM.
- Install two pulleys with respective bolts. Both bolts should be torqued to 25 NM.
- Lower the supercharger into position and connect the throttle body connector before moving the wiring out of the way.
- Connect the SIP connector on the supercharger on the driver's side.
- Ensure that the supercharger is fully seated on mounting dowels. If so, then install the eight fasteners and torque to 25 NM in the same order as the intake manifold.
- Install the brake booster hose assembly that has been modified over the driver's coil area, connecting the check valve and the aspirator assembly. Make sure no hoses are pinched.
- Connect the booster hose to the rear port on the front of the supercharger.
- The emissions cannister purge connects to the supercharger and the purge line. Zip tie to the engine harness.
- Connect the fuel inlet line on the driver's side and the high-pressure fuel supply line on the passenger's side and lock both into position.
- Install the driver's side and passenger's side coil cover brackets and install two bolts on each. Torque bolts to 10 NM using a 10 mm socket.
- Install the heater hoses into location and connect as before, but ziptie both sides in place.
- Connect the fitting side of the PCV purge hose to the end of the hose that's installed on the intake manifold and make sure they are both locked. Connect to the passegner's side cam cover and supercharger.
- Lay the Front Engine Accessory Drive (FEAD) belt loosely in place, but do not route onto the supercharger pulley yet.
- Place pulleys and bolts onto the tensioner bracket assembly and then move assembly into place, using loose bolts to hold in place.
- After ensuring that the belt is correctly laid out behind the tensioner, tighten bolts. Torque tensioner bracket bolts to 25 NM.
- Use a 17 mm socket to release tension on the pulley and then pull the belt onto the supercharger. Inspect each pulley to make sure that the belt is properly seated.
- Reinstall water pump pulley using original hardware. Torque the bolts to 25 NM with a 10 mm socket.
- Install stock FEAD belt following diagram. Then lift car to install radiator.
- Remove the spanner bar from underneath your Mustang including all of its bolts and washers. Bolts will require an 8 mm socket.
- Remove plastic air deflectors from both the driver and passenger's sides.
- Install new upper brackets for radiator and repeat on both sides.
- Slide new radiator into mounting position against the brackets and install bolts. Torque to 25 NM.
- Mount new intercooler reservoir bottle. Remove the bolt and J-clip from washer bottle and discard, place reservoir bottle next to washer fluid bottle bracket and loosely install one bolt. Keep loose until finished with pumps and hoses.
- Install intercooler pump onto hose from intercooler reservoir.
- Install the two upper intercooler pump mounting brackets over the frame.
- Connect the bottom intercooler mounting bracket to the top brackets.
- Place the supplied clamp around the intercooler pump and connect to the brackets. Tighten everything into place.
- Take the U-Shaped radiator outlet hose and connect to the passenger's side of the low temperature radiator and then connect to intercooler pump.
- A similiar hose has to connect on the driver's side, but in order for it to fit the plastic radiator close-out panels must be trimmed. Mark the point the hose crosses on the plastic and cut it out.
Tech Tip: Even if you can squeeze the hose through without cutting, it's important to not pinch any hoses.
- Replace the trimmed closeout panels and ensure that the hose is able to pass through unimpeded.
- Install the lower brackets to support the radiator. Secure each bracekt with two bolts torqued to 25 NM.
- Connect the driver's side hose to the lower port on the supercharger.
- Grab the radiator hose assembly and connect to the intercooler reservoir bottle below the frame rail.
- Reinstall the radiator fan connecting the electrical connector on the passenger's side mounting bolt.
- Reinstall degas bottle using the original mounting bolts.
- Line up the clip on the bottom of the intercooler degas bottle with the hole on the fan shroud and snap into place. Use two bolts torqued to 10 NM to hold in place.
- Reinstall factory radiator hose, connecting first to the radiator and securing with a clamp and then to the engine degas bottle.
- Install the MAF connector plug and zip tie the connector out of the way. Orient it so that the connector is pointing down, that way it will stay dry.
- Install the lower air box tray. Torque bolts to 10 NM.
- Install the inlet tube, connecting the PCV fresh air inlet, clean air tube, and brake aspirator hose.
- Install the airbox cover assembly onto the airbox tray. The cover must slip under the notch or it won't be correctly seated. Install 6 included screws but do not overtighten.
- Fill the engine cooling system to the marked level on the radiator degas bottle and fill the intercooler system. The coolant should come up to one inch below the cap.
Tech Tip: Both coolant systems can trap air, verify that all air has been purged and that coolant is flowing correctly.
- Reinstall close-out panel and inner fenders.
- Reinstall the flashed PCM and fuel pump fuse. Do not power up car without a flashed PCM.
- Reconnect the battery, with the positive cable first and then the negative cable.
- Place Roush's provided decals on oil cap, fuel door, and hood.
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