Roush 2650 Supercharger Installation Guide

Roush 2650 Supercharger Installation Guide

Last Updated July 21, 2021 | Meghan Drummond

Between hot-rodding tricks, custom tunes, aerodynamic adjustments, and reducing weight there are plenty of ways to nickel and dime your Mustang GT up to an outrageous horsepower.

Or you could just supercharge it.

Roush and Ford Performance teamed up to make a supercharger for 2018 and 2019 Mustang GTs that promises huge performance gains and is designed to work very specifically with the Coyote engine in your GT.

Twin Vortices Series Superchargers

Superchargers come in a lot of different packages. The Roush 2550 is a twin vortices series supercharger, frequently abbreviated to TVS. The first TVS supercharger was manufactured in 1985 for Eaton and was exclusively high-end, used in cars like Lotuses and Ferraris.

What makes TVS design so special is that it uses four lobes instead of the traditional three. All superchargers, regardless of design, are able to deliver on their performance boosting promises by increasing the pressure and density of air to the engine. More lobes equals more air, but also the inner rotors are positioned so that the additional air can be stored for longer. The result is more air, less loss of energy, and less heat. Overall, TVS styled superchargers are about 12 percent more efficient than other superchargers.

For the 2018 and 2019 GT that's enough to take its pretty darn good 460 horsepower and 420 lb-ft of torque and amplify it enough to catapult the GT into Shelby territory. Using the Roush supercharger, you can elevate your GT to more than 700 horsepower.

Will a Supercharger Void My Warranty?

This is a great question, and one that a lot of enthusiasts have given that customizing your car is awesome but so is having a warranty.

The first thing you should know is that thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act the dealer would have to prove that your aftermarket modifications in some way contributed to the mechanical failure. This means that if you install a short-throw shifter but then are having trouble with your brakes, the two are obviously unrelated and your brakes would still be covered.

That said, a supercharger installs to your engine, so it's good to have some questions.

As long as your supercharger is installed by a Ford dealer or ASE certified mechanic the Roush supercharger won’t affect your warranty, and the supercharger itself comes with a three-year or 36,000-mile warranty as well.

Video Installation

In this video, Bill walks us through every step in one very informative video. These steps will follow the ones below but show the actions associated with each stage of the install. If you're invested in doing the installation yourself, watching the video and then using the steps below will make sure your installation gets started right.

Roush and Ford Performance outdid themselves with this supercharger and we couldn't be happier with the results. If you're looking for the best way to add a lot of horsepower to your GT, then this supercharger is a great way to do it.

Supercharger Installation How-To

If you care less about the warranty and would prefer to install your supercharger yourself, these are our instructions for how to spend one of the most mechanically fascinating weekends of your life. Even if you aren't interested in installing it yourself, it's worth reading through the steps just to understand everything that's coming with your supercharger and how it works together to create such an unbelievable power bump.

Roush has also provided a handy PDF on the proper installation of their supercharger.

A supercharger install is a lot to take it at once, so we've divided it into three sections.

Section 1 - Dissamble Stock Components

Section 2 - Modify Stock Components

Section 3 - Supercharger Installations

Please Note: This guide is a tool to help you install the parts on your vehicle. If you don’t feel confident in performing this installation properly on your own, have a professional install the parts for you.

Required Tools:

  • Vehicle lift or Jack Stands
  • 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch Ratchets with Extensions
  • Metric and Standard Socket Sets
  • Metric and Standard Wrench Sets
  • 3/8” Drive Torque Wrench
  • 6” Scale
  • Assembly Lubricant
  • Electrical Tape
  • Sharp Knife or Razor
  • Medium Strength Thread Locker
  • T-20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  • 5/16 Inch Drill Bits and Motor
  • Coolant
  • 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet or Breaker Bar
  • Short Phillips-Head Screwdriver
  • 3/8 Inch Fuel Line Removal Tool
  • Heat Gun
  • Trim Pad Tool
  • Fender Covers
  • 6.9mm Drill Bit
  • M8 x 1.25 Tap

    Disassemble Stock Components

  1. Removing fuseLocate the underhood fuse panel and remove the fuse for the fuel pump (which will be either 48 or 49, consult your owner's manual). Once you've pulled the fuse, start your car and let it run till it dies, which drains pressure from the fuel system. Turn the ignition to the off position afterwards.
  2. Disconnecting batteryLoosen the retaining nuts and then disconnect the positive and negative battery connections.
  3. Removing PCMThe PCM will need to be removed and flashed, to do this remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the PCM in place, then pull forward and lift out of engine compartment.

    Tech Tip: If you're sending your PCM to Roush for flashing, as a bonus, you can send in your warranty card at the same time.
  4. removing close-out panelRemove the close-out panel from underneath your car. This will require removing the nineteen lower closeout panel bolts and six pushpins.

    Tech Tip: Keep bolts and pins that you'll be reusing in a small labeled container like a ziplock bag to avoid a potential headache later.
  5. Drain coolantRemove cap from degas bottle and drain the coolant from the petcock located on the lower passenger side of the radiator.

    Tech Tip: Use a clean container and save the coolant for later use.
  6. Remove engine accessoriesIf you have a strut tower brace, an intake cover, or anything else that might block the path of the supercharger you'll need to remove it.
  7. Disconnect lines around throttle bodyDisconnect the brake aspirator line and PCV tube from the clean air tube and then remove clean air tube from throttle body. The clean air tube will not be reused. Remove the MAF sensor, the air filter, and the throttle body electrical connector. Disconnect the evaporative emission canister purge valve.
  8. Disconnect Fuel hoseCarefully disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel rail on the driver's side and disconnect the fuel supply line from the DI pump on the passenger's side. Tape up fuel supply lines afterwards

    Tech Tip: Use a rag under the lines the catch any excess fuel during disconnection.
  9. Removing brake boost vacuum hoseFirst remove the two nuts that secure the brake boost vacuum hose to the cylinder head. Then, remove hose from firewall on driver's side and carefully set aside for modification later.
  10. Removing Fuel Rail CoversOn both the driver's and passenger's side, remove the fuel rail covers from the cylinder heads. This will require removing two nuts with a 10 mm socket.
  11. Disconnect heater hosesDisconnect the heater feed and return hoses located the front of the driver's side and passenger's side head intake flanges.
  12. Disconnect fuel pressure sensorDisconnect the fuel pressure sensor from the fuel rail on the driver's side.
  13. Disconnect fuel injectorsDisconnect each of the four fuel injectors on the driver's and passenger's side, eight in total.
  14. Disconnect degas hoseDisconnect the clamps on the hose ends from the 3/8 inch hose that goes from engine to degas bottle and remove hose.
  15. Remove fuel railsRemove the four fuel rail bolts and carefully save since they will be reused. Then lift and remove fuel rail.
  16. Removing intake manifoldRemove intake manifold. There will be six intake manifold bolts that will require a 10 mm socket to remove. Disconnect the CMCV harness connector and remove harness from intake. Disconnect the four harness connectors carefully. Do not damage the harness.
  17. Intake ports covered with tapeUse tape to cover the intake ports so that they don't become contaminated.
  18. Removing radiator hoseDisconnect the vent hose from the engine coolant degas bottle and the water pump inlet. Disconnect the clamp on the end of the upper radiator hose and then push the clip down on the connector to remove the radiator hose.

    Tech Tip: Use a rag under radiator hose to catch extra coolant.
  19. Removing radiator fan and shroudDisconnect the electric fan harness connector. Remove the two bolts connecting the shroud to the cooling module. Then, remove the electric fan and shroud assembly from vehicle.
  20. Removing front end accessory beltRelease tension from front end accessory drive belt by rotating tensioner counter clockwise. Then remove and set the belt carefully aside.
  21. Remove Water Pump PulleyCarefully remove and set aside the three 10mm bolts securing the water pump pulley and then remove the water pump pulley.
  22. Cutting through A/C compressor beltRemove the A/C compressor belt. Since this belt will not be reused, you can simply cut it and discard.
  23. Removing heater hosesRemove heater hoses and carefully set aside.
  24. Taping up portsBefore moving on to section II of installation, cover up the radiator hose port, inlet port, PCV port, and heater feed tube with tape.

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    Modify Stock Components

  1. Separating hose and hardlineTake brake booster aspirator hose assembly and remove hose from hardline. Keep all clamps from this process since they will be reused.
  2. Pulling out check valveRelease the clamp and remove the check valve from the straight end of the hose.
  3. Pulling off foamThe other section of hose has foam wrapped around it. Carefully remove this foam since it will also be reused.
  4. Pulling apart brake aspirator assemblyOnce the foam has been removed, disassemble the remaining brake aspirator assembly, taking care to preserve all of the clamps.
  5. Brake aspirator with new parts addedYou will be left with an aspirator assembly that has four ports. Take the check valve, brake aspirator hose, and plug from your Roush Supercharger kit and attach them appropriately. The plug will go diagonally from the half-inch grey port and the brake booster hose will be attached on the other end of the same side as the plug.
  6. Attaching new hoses to brake aspirator assemblyOn the two grey ends of the brake aspirator, you will install the hose that will go to the clean air tube and the hose that will go to the supercharger.
  7. Wrapping foam around brake aspiratorRewrap the brake aspirator assembly with the foam from earlier.
  8. Cutting hoseCut the old removed hoses to get the PCV fitting.
  9. Install PCV fittingInstall PCV fitting into the clean air hose, which will be the hose that does not have the right angle.
  10. Removing old hoseRemove the old hose from the emissions cannister purge line. This will not be reused, so it may be cut.
  11. Install new hoseInstall the new extension hose to the purge valve and secure it with supplied clamp.
  12. Lining up templateTake supplied paper template and line up against fan shroud.
  13. Marking drilling locationsUsing template, mark on radiator fan where to drill and where to create cutouts.

    Tech Tip: Move template away and then realign to make sure that marks are accurate before actually drilling.
  14. Cutting fan shroudUse a drill to punch out holes where marked and use a dremel to shave away plastic for cutouts.
  15. Pointing out boss to be drilledLocate the portions of the timing cover to be drilled. Before continuing to modify the timing cover, make sure your engine is covered and protected so nothing is damaged by metal shards.
  16. Grinding BossLocate a boss that is nearly center on the passenger's side cylinder head, where the intake cover will rest. This boss will be surrounded by three ribs. Carefully grind the boss down to the same height as the ribbing around it.
  17. Drilling intake cover bossLocate the boss that needs to be drilled. It will be to the right of the boss you just ground down. It will need to be drilled to a depth of 35 mm.

    Tech Tip: Use a stop on your drill bit so that it won't go too deep.
  18. Tapping holeOnce it's been drilled, tap the hole to 25 mm. Vacuum the metal shavings out of the hole and clean the entire area.

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    Supercharger Installation

  1. Installing intercooler harnessInstall the electrical harness for the intercooler pump. Route and tuck the harness under the engine harness and around to the rear of the cylinder head and to the driver's side.
  2. Plug in Intercooler HarnessSeparate the radio capacitor from the retainer and cut off the retainer. Plug the intercooler harness in between the two.
  3. Attaching fuse relayOn the passenger's side, remove the 8 mm bolt near the strut tower and install the fuse holder and relay from the wiring harness. Then reinstall the bolt.
  4. Connecting power eyelet to fuse boxThe power wire will go to the fuse box and attach there and the ground eyelet will connect to the existing ground wire.
  5. Routing hoseRoute the other end of the harness down between the frame rail and washer bottle. This will be connected to the intercooler pump later.
  6. Connecting MAF harnessRoute the MAF to MAP harness behind the cylinder heads and connect the two small connectors to the corresponding colors.

    Tech Tip: Use zip ties to connect the MAF harness to the engine harness all the way around the cylinder heads.
  7. Locate PCM ConnectorIn order to connect the MAF to the PCM Connector you will need to clear a path which may involve unplugging multiple other connections as well. The PCM will be near the wiper fluid bottle at the front of the vehicle.
  8. Removing back coverCarefully remove the back cover, taking care to keep the tabs from being broken.
  9. Remove front of PCM connectorRemove the gray front of the plug in the same manner as you removed the rear cover.
  10. Punching out blanksUsing a very small screwdriver, punch out the blanks in location 12, 28, and 80. The black wire will connect to location 12, the red will connect to 28, and the green will connect to 80.

    Tech Tip: You will hear a light click when the wires are in place.
  11. Reconnect PCM connectorPut back and front covers back into place and reconnect PCM and any other plugs that may have been disconnected.
  12. Holding up Throttle Body Adapter ModuleTo install the throttle body adaptor module, first connect the adapter and then run along passenger side. The power wire will need to connect to the fuse box.
  13. Plug in sent module adapterPlug the sent module adaptor into the factor throttle body connector, cutting off any tape that may be in the way.
  14. Mount moduleMount the module inside the battery box using double sided tape. Connect the red power wire into the post on the fuse box and reinstall bolt. Secure sent module adaptor harness to the engine harness using zip ties.
  15. Adjusting knock sensorsThe knock sensors, located in the valley in between the cylinder heads, will need to be adjusted to allow for more clearance. Remove and discard 10 mm bolts.
  16. Adjusting harnessReorient the wiring harness and rewrap the wires with tape as needed. Once knock sensors are oriented downwards install the new provided bolts and torque to 20 NM.
  17. New spark plugsFactory spark plugs will need to be removed and replaced with the supplied spark plugs.

    Tech Tip: Even though the new spark plugs should already be gap checked, recheck plugs before installation. They should be gapped to .028-.031 inches.
  18. Fitting grommets into new radiatorWith brackets facing up, place rubber grommets and metal fittings into bottom corners of new radiator.
  19. Sticking foam to back of radiatorOn the back of the radiator, glue foam around the edges.
  20. Sticking foam to bracketsApply strips of foam to the upper intercooler brackets.
  21. Installing intercooler harnessAdd rubber grommets to the intercooler brackets.

    Tech Tips: Use the Roush logo to orient the brackets and make sure you're installing the grommets correctly.
  22. Applying foam strips to intercooler reservoirAdd foam to the intercooler reservoir bottle, using one strip of foam on the curve and the other strip on the bottom.
  23. Heat shrinking clampConnect the reservoir to pump hose with a shrink clamp to the intercooler reservoir and use a heat gun to shrink the fitting to size.
  24. Connecting hose to intake manifoldAttach the rubber hose section from PCV purge to the fitting on the bottom of the intake manifold and secure it.
  25. Connecting SIP sensorConnect the SIP sensor to the side of the intake manifold and secure with provided bolt. Torque to 10 NM.
  26. Add O-Ring to superchargerAdd o-ring, or gasket, for throttle body and seat carefully into the groove on the supercharger.
  27. Installing throttle bodyAdd throttle body and make sure that the electronics are facing the pulley. Install the four provided bolts and torque to 10 NM.
  28. Install supercharger pulleyInstall supercharger's pulley onto the supercharger shaft. Put a dab of loctite onto each bolt prior to installation and torque to 10 NM.
  29. Removing clips from stock fuel railCarefully remove clips from the stock fuel rail.
  30. Removing sensor from stock fuel railRemove sensor from the stock fuel rail.
  31. Installing sensorInstall sensor into new fuel rail. Hold the nut with a 19 mm wrench and use a 27 mm socket to torque the nut to 53 lb-in and then angle tighten 25 degrees.
  32. Connecting air filterInstall the fuel injectors into the new fuel rail using the clips from the stock fuel rail to secure.

    Tech Tip: Add a dab of petroleum jelly to help the injectors get seated.
  33. Installing intercooler harnessTake air filter and install onto the MAP tube, make sure the arrow is facing downward and attach with provided clamp, torqued to 3-5 NM.
  34. Bolting MAP assembly into air trayTake MAP tube assembly and place through airbox tray opening. Bolt together using two bolts torqued to 10 NM.
  35. Adding grommets to airboxRemove rubber grommets and metal sleeves as well as the rubber mounting isolator from factory airbox and use for Roush airbox.
  36. Connecting intercooler piping to hosesInstall supplied rubber hoses onto the ends of the intercooler piping. Place shrink clamps on connections and use heat gun to fit to size.

    Tech Tip: On the high setting, it should only take 35 seconds to secure each shrink band.
  37. Placing the intake manifoldRemove the tape from the cylinder heads and give all surfaces a final wipe down. Route the PCV hose under the DI fuel rail. Move intake manifold to car and lower, then connect MAF sensor.
  38. Loosening boltOn the firewall, loosen the bolt and rotate ground wire towards the brake booster and then retighten.
  39. Installing intercooler harnessLightly bolt down the intake manifold, but do not torque down yet.
  40. Placing intercooler hardlinePlace the intercooler hardline in position and connect the hoses to the tubes on the rear of the intake manifold. When finished, the PCV hose should be routed around the injector tube and towards the driver's side cam cover. Once they're in place, proceed to next step.
  41. Torquing intake manifold boltsTorque the bolts down on the intake manifold in this specific order: First, the bolt that's center on the passenger's side, then center on the driver's side, then rear on the passenger's side, then rear on the driver's side, then front on the passenger's side, and then finally front on the driver's side. Torque in two stages, first to 10 NM then tighten an additional 45 degrees.
  42. Connecting ACT sensorConnect the ACT sensor to the intake manifold.
  43. Installing fuel railsInstall the fuel rails. Line up the injectors and place gently before reinstalling bolts. The longer Roush bolts will go into the lower holes while the shorter bolts will go on top. Torque to 10 NM and then tighten an additional 45 degrees in the same order as the intake manifold.
  44. Connecting fuel railsConnect the fuel pressure sensor and all eight fuel injector electrical connectors.
  45. Installing pulley bracketInstall bracket for pulley. Four bolts will be standard bracket to engine bolts, but one bolt will be to the intake in the upper left corner. All five bolts should be tightened to 25 NM.
  46. Installing pulleysInstall two pulleys with respective bolts. Both bolts should be torqued to 25 NM.
  47. Placing superchargerLower the supercharger into position and connect the throttle body connector before moving the wiring out of the way.
  48. Connecting SIPConnect the SIP connector on the supercharger on the driver's side.
  49. Bolting supercharger into placeEnsure that the supercharger is fully seated on mounting dowels. If so, then install the eight fasteners and torque to 25 NM in the same order as the intake manifold.
  50. Installing brake booster hose assemblyInstall the brake booster hose assembly that has been modified over the driver's coil area, connecting the check valve and the aspirator assembly. Make sure no hoses are pinched.
  51. Connecting hose to superchargerConnect the booster hose to the rear port on the front of the supercharger.
  52. Connect emissions cannister purge to superchargerThe emissions cannister purge connects to the supercharger and the purge line. Zip tie to the engine harness.
  53. Connecting fuel linesConnect the fuel inlet line on the driver's side and the high-pressure fuel supply line on the passenger's side and lock both into position.
  54. Installing coil cover bracketsInstall the driver's side and passenger's side coil cover brackets and install two bolts on each. Torque bolts to 10 NM using a 10 mm socket.
  55. Installing heater hosesInstall the heater hoses into location and connect as before, but ziptie both sides in place.
  56. Connecting PCV purge hoseConnect the fitting side of the PCV purge hose to the end of the hose that's installed on the intake manifold and make sure they are both locked. Connect to the passegner's side cam cover and supercharger.
  57. Laying FEAD belt outLay the Front Engine Accessory Drive (FEAD) belt loosely in place, but do not route onto the supercharger pulley yet.
  58. Install tensioner bracket assemblyPlace pulleys and bolts onto the tensioner bracket assembly and then move assembly into place, using loose bolts to hold in place.
  59. Torque tensioner bracketAfter ensuring that the belt is correctly laid out behind the tensioner, tighten bolts. Torque tensioner bracket bolts to 25 NM.
  60. Pulling belt over superchargerUse a 17 mm socket to release tension on the pulley and then pull the belt onto the supercharger. Inspect each pulley to make sure that the belt is properly seated.
  61. Reinstalling water pump pulleyReinstall water pump pulley using original hardware. Torque the bolts to 25 NM with a 10 mm socket.
  62. Installing second beltInstall stock FEAD belt following diagram. Then lift car to install radiator.
  63. Spanner bar locationRemove the spanner bar from underneath your Mustang including all of its bolts and washers. Bolts will require an 8 mm socket.
  64. Pulling out air deflectorsRemove plastic air deflectors from both the driver and passenger's sides.
  65. Installing new radiator bracketInstall new upper brackets for radiator and repeat on both sides.
  66. Sliding radiator into locationSlide new radiator into mounting position against the brackets and install bolts. Torque to 25 NM.
  67. Mounting intercooler reservoir bottleMount new intercooler reservoir bottle. Remove the bolt and J-clip from washer bottle and discard, place reservoir bottle next to washer fluid bottle bracket and loosely install one bolt. Keep loose until finished with pumps and hoses.
  68. Connecting intercooler pump to reservoirInstall intercooler pump onto hose from intercooler reservoir.
  69. Placing upper brackets over frameInstall the two upper intercooler pump mounting brackets over the frame.
  70. Connecting bottom bracketConnect the bottom intercooler mounting bracket to the top brackets.
  71. Connecting intercooler pumpPlace the supplied clamp around the intercooler pump and connect to the brackets. Tighten everything into place.
  72. Connect pump to radiatorTake the U-Shaped radiator outlet hose and connect to the passenger's side of the low temperature radiator and then connect to intercooler pump.
  73. Cutting radiator panelsA similiar hose has to connect on the driver's side, but in order for it to fit the plastic radiator close-out panels must be trimmed. Mark the point the hose crosses on the plastic and cut it out.

    Tech Tip: Even if you can squeeze the hose through without cutting, it's important to not pinch any hoses.
  74. Inserting modified panelReplace the trimmed closeout panels and ensure that the hose is able to pass through unimpeded.
  75. Installing lower brackets for radiatorInstall the lower brackets to support the radiator. Secure each bracekt with two bolts torqued to 25 NM.
  76. Connecting superchargerConnect the driver's side hose to the lower port on the supercharger.
  77. Connecting radiator hoseGrab the radiator hose assembly and connect to the intercooler reservoir bottle below the frame rail.
  78. Installing intercooler harnessReinstall the radiator fan connecting the electrical connector on the passenger's side mounting bolt.
  79. Reinstalling degas bottleReinstall degas bottle using the original mounting bolts.
  80. Connecting intercooler degas bottleLine up the clip on the bottom of the intercooler degas bottle with the hole on the fan shroud and snap into place. Use two bolts torqued to 10 NM to hold in place.
  81. Reinstalling factory radiator hoseReinstall factory radiator hose, connecting first to the radiator and securing with a clamp and then to the engine degas bottle.
  82. Installing MAF connectorInstall the MAF connector plug and zip tie the connector out of the way. Orient it so that the connector is pointing down, that way it will stay dry.
  83. Installing airboxInstall the lower air box tray. Torque bolts to 10 NM.
  84. Installing inlet tubeInstall the inlet tube, connecting the PCV fresh air inlet, clean air tube, and brake aspirator hose.
  85. Installing airbox coverInstall the airbox cover assembly onto the airbox tray. The cover must slip under the notch or it won't be correctly seated. Install 6 included screws but do not overtighten.
  86. Refilling fluidsFill the engine cooling system to the marked level on the radiator degas bottle and fill the intercooler system. The coolant should come up to one inch below the cap.

    Tech Tip: Both coolant systems can trap air, verify that all air has been purged and that coolant is flowing correctly.
  87. Reinstalling close-out panelReinstall close-out panel and inner fenders.
  88. Reinstalling PCMReinstall the flashed PCM and fuel pump fuse. Do not power up car without a flashed PCM.
  89. Reconnecting batteryReconnect the battery, with the positive cable first and then the negative cable.
  90. Place decalsPlace Roush's provided decals on oil cap, fuel door, and hood.

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About the Author

Meghan is a Classic Mustang geek with a soft spot for four-eyed Foxes. She has over 300 in-depth articles to her credit that have been cited by some of the top news sites in the US. Read full bio →

Roush 2650 Supercharger Installation Guide

Roush and Ford Performance teamed up to make a great supercharger. Here are the specifications of what makes it special as well as a video and step-by-step guide for installation.