TMI Bench Seat Sport R Pro-Series Split Back Black With Brackets Chevrolet C10 1973-1987
CJ's Part Number:
SEAT331B-V
Only %1 left
Product Description
TMI Black Split Back Pro-Series Sport R Bench Seat with Mounting Brackets for all 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986 and 1987 Chevrolet C10s.
If you’re restoring a classic 1973-1987 Chevrolet C10, then chances are you’re going to do some work to its interior. So be sure to upgrade from your old, uncomfortable bench seat to this new TMI Black Split Back Pro-Series Sport R Bench Seat from CJ Pony Parts!
Features & Benefits:
- Made of Premium Hand-Crafted Padded Black Vinyl with Black Unisuede Bolsters
- Your Choice of Contrast Stitching
- Tubular Steel Frame with Molded Seat Foam
- Includes Vehicle Specific Mounting Brackets
- Includes Reclining Mechanism and Slide Tracks
- Made in the USA
This TMI Black Split Back Pro-Series Sport R Bench Seat is proudly made in the USA! It features a tubular steel frame with molded seat foam surrounded by premium hand-crafted padded black vinyl with black unisuede bolsters. This seat also has a reclining mechanism and slide tracks, so you can easily adjust it to whatever position makes you the most comfortable! CJ Pony Parts makes it easier than ever to install your new seats with the provided vehicle specific mounting brackets!
Please Note: The black vinyl material used on these seats will not match a factory black interior.
For over 30 years, TMI Products has been a leader in the industry with its highly-respected construction of upholstery, consoles, door panels and many other interior products. TMI makes each of their products in the USA and pay special attention to maintaining the highest quality, along with using the best materials available.
Order a TMI Black Split Back Pro-Series Sport R Bench Seat for your 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986 or 1987 Chevrolet C10 from CJ Pony Parts today!
Related Categories: Chevrolet C10 Parts, C10 Interior, C10 Restomod, C10 Seats, C10 Restomod Interior
Installation & Fitment
Installation Videos
Video Transcript
Freddy:Hey, Freddy with CJ's. No, your eyes aren't fooling you. This is actually a beautiful 1965 C10. As you know, CJ's has really been expanding our truck market, and we're getting into one of my favorite categories, the classic Chevy truck. Although this truck is beautiful, it still has the factory interior, so I brought Waylon from TMI. What are we going to be doing to this today?
Waylon:Today, we're going to be taking out that factory interior. It still looks good, still in great shape, but with a matter of just a couple bolts, we can be upgrading that to our Sport R buckets, console, and door panel that I brought with me. This Sport R Series, basically, has a contrast stitch around the perimeter. It comes in a multitude of colors, and it has that suede insert you see there in the bolster.
Now, these buckets come out of the box just like you see them, completely ready to install. You just mount the sliders and the bracket into the truck and you're ready to go. No hog rings, no listing channels, no frustration trying to pull vinyl over foam. Out of the box, they're ready to go. Hour down the road, you've swapped out your interior. The center's our waterfall console, again, that fits right between the buckets. You could see it has the contrast stitch and the suede accents on the side.
I also brought with me a set of Sport R door panels that match the seat upholstery, and you may notice these dimples across the top. What's nice about everything I'm bringing today is it utilizes all the factory attachment points, so right here's where we're going to put those factory screws that are inset right now in the factory door panels. Same thing with the seats. They utilize all the same attachment points as the factory bench.
Freddy:All right. This stuff looks awesome. Let's get to the installation.
Waylon:Let's do it.
Freddy:All right, Waylon, so where do you want to start on this thing?
Waylon:I tell you what. I'll take the bench, you take the door panels.
Freddy:Fair enough.
Waylon:You just want to remove this factory hardware. We're going to be reusing that, so make sure you hold onto it.
Freddy:Before we remove the door panel, we have to remove the window crank and the door handle. There is a set screw on each one that you have to remove with a flathead screwdriver. Once you remove all the handles, you can remove all the screws from the perimeter of the door panel. Once you get all the screws out, you can remove the door panel. All right, so we got both door panels off. What are we going to do now?
Waylon:Let's get that bench out of there.
Freddy:Sounds good.
Waylon:I'll get it on this end. Now that the original bench is removed, the next step is just installing all the sliders and brackets on the new seats to get them in the truck. First thing you want to do is flip that bucket over and take out your sliders. Right now, the holes that we're going to need to attach on the bottom of the seat are blocked, so if you want to release the teeth right, Freddy, help me slide that down until you could see that first hole right there. You're going to go ahead and just attach the hardware to the bottom of the seat.
Freddy:And the hardware comes with the seats, right?
Waylon:Correct. Yeah, all the hardware, including the Allen wrench, comes in a little bag in the kit. We'll just go ahead and repeat the process, release the teeth and slide the track up to reach the second attachment point on the bottom. There you go.
All right, once you get this side of the slider installed, you want to take this connecting rod right here, you want it through this hole, and I suggest putting it on this slider before you install the slider. Makes for a little easier on the install. Slide it down, there you go. All right, now your handle is functional, so go ahead and release those teeth again, slide the track up. Go ahead and slide the track up until you can see that hole come through right there, and install your attachment.
You're going to want to wait until you get both those bolts in loosely before you tighten them down. That one's in good and tight, and now we can go back to the first one we did now that this is working. Once you get the last one installed, go back and tighten down the first one we did. Make sure everything's nice and good and tight.
Once you've got all your bolts tight, you're going to want to go ahead and disengage your teeth, and make sure the sliders are level. There we go. Now we're all ready to install this on the bracket. We're going to go ahead and repeat this process on the other bucket.
All right, once you get both of your sliders in place, you're going to install the bracket, but before you do that, you want to make sure that your adjustment handles, right here, for the recline mechanism are on the outside. You don't want those to face on the inside, not going to work when we install the console later on. So, grab your powder-coated bracket. Now on this, there's two sides to this. There's a lower end and a raised end. Obviously, you want the raised end at the front of the buckets, so line that up. How you looking over there, Freddy? Good?
Freddy:I'm good. All on.
Waylon:All right. Now again, in the packet of the supplied hardware we do have the nuts for this, and we're going to install four on each side. With the bracket installed, next step is just to slide this bad boy into the cab and get it bolted down to the floor.
Freddy:Let's get to it.
Waylon:Once you get those bolts lined up, you're just going to tighten them down to the frame.
Freddy:Once you get the seats in, you can tighten all your hardware.
Waylon:Once you have the bracket bolted down to the floor, the next step is to install the center console, so you want to take this, slide it in the place between the two buckets, and pop out these center cup holders. You've got to reach in there, kind of in the dark, and you'll find a Velcro strap. Simple, yet effective. What you're going to do is you're going to take this Velcro strap and Velcro it down to the bracket, good and tight. Once that's done, cup holders back in, and you're ready to go.
The only thing you're going to need to do to prep the door panels for installation is grab an awl, or any small, sharp object, and you're going to want to feel through here, through the panel, and find out where this is punctured, and then simply just press through. You're going to have to put that screw right through there. That's all you're going to have to do. Do that all the way around, and repeat for the other door panel.
To install these door panels, you're just going to reutilize the original hardware. I find it's easier to go ahead and kind of start it off through the hole we punched with the awl, and get it started, lined up, and screwed in. Don't worry about the handles for the door or the window. We'll get to those after all the screws are installed.
One thing I do want to point out while we're doing this, since you're going to be reusing your original hardware. The owner of this truck has since changed his out. Originally, this had a stainless steel flange around it, gave it a little bit more of a finished edge and encompassed a little bit more of this panel area right here, with a recessed area. Now would be the time, if you wanted to change this out, upgrade it, maybe use a black screw to blend in, that'd be up to you, now would be the time to do it though.
With the door panel screwed in, the next step is to install your handles. It's a little tricky, a little scary, you actually have to cut the panel, but it's simple enough. What you're going to do is feel through until you can find the attachment points on both sides, and you're going to want to make a small incision. You're going to turn into a surgeon for a minute. A small X, then you're going to poke that handle through it. So again, right there, I can feel where the crank site is. You can see it. I suggest a sharp razor blade. One X, then the other side. Once I X through, if you cut all the way through, you should be able to just pop it through. Handle goes in, tighten down your set screw, and you're good to go. Way to go, Freddy. I told you we'd be done by lunch.
Freddy:Honestly, I am super impressed. It installed super easy. Everything lined up great. And you're right, it installed super quick. I'm very impressed.
Waylon:It's basically a swap. You're going to reuse your factory hardware, so you're basically just replacing everything you've got, but the end result is a massive upgrade in not only comfort but, obviously, style.
Freddy:Yeah, it really does look amazing.
Waylon:Well, thanks. One thing I did want to point out is we do offer a bench option for these trucks as well, both in a 55 and a 60-inch bench to fit the early model trucks as well as the late model. These buckets, as a matter of fact, will fit all the way from 1960 to 1987. The only thing that changes, the bracket and the console are a little bit different, and, of course, door panels are different per year. We also do dashes. This one, obviously, didn't come with a factory dash, but when you get up into the years that do, we supply a dash that matches this interior as well.
Freddy:Awesome. This TMI interior, along with other TMI products for your classic Chevy truck, can be found at CJPonyParts.com.
Waylon:Today, we're going to be taking out that factory interior. It still looks good, still in great shape, but with a matter of just a couple bolts, we can be upgrading that to our Sport R buckets, console, and door panel that I brought with me. This Sport R Series, basically, has a contrast stitch around the perimeter. It comes in a multitude of colors, and it has that suede insert you see there in the bolster.
Now, these buckets come out of the box just like you see them, completely ready to install. You just mount the sliders and the bracket into the truck and you're ready to go. No hog rings, no listing channels, no frustration trying to pull vinyl over foam. Out of the box, they're ready to go. Hour down the road, you've swapped out your interior. The center's our waterfall console, again, that fits right between the buckets. You could see it has the contrast stitch and the suede accents on the side.
I also brought with me a set of Sport R door panels that match the seat upholstery, and you may notice these dimples across the top. What's nice about everything I'm bringing today is it utilizes all the factory attachment points, so right here's where we're going to put those factory screws that are inset right now in the factory door panels. Same thing with the seats. They utilize all the same attachment points as the factory bench.
Freddy:All right. This stuff looks awesome. Let's get to the installation.
Waylon:Let's do it.
Freddy:All right, Waylon, so where do you want to start on this thing?
Waylon:I tell you what. I'll take the bench, you take the door panels.
Freddy:Fair enough.
Waylon:You just want to remove this factory hardware. We're going to be reusing that, so make sure you hold onto it.
Freddy:Before we remove the door panel, we have to remove the window crank and the door handle. There is a set screw on each one that you have to remove with a flathead screwdriver. Once you remove all the handles, you can remove all the screws from the perimeter of the door panel. Once you get all the screws out, you can remove the door panel. All right, so we got both door panels off. What are we going to do now?
Waylon:Let's get that bench out of there.
Freddy:Sounds good.
Waylon:I'll get it on this end. Now that the original bench is removed, the next step is just installing all the sliders and brackets on the new seats to get them in the truck. First thing you want to do is flip that bucket over and take out your sliders. Right now, the holes that we're going to need to attach on the bottom of the seat are blocked, so if you want to release the teeth right, Freddy, help me slide that down until you could see that first hole right there. You're going to go ahead and just attach the hardware to the bottom of the seat.
Freddy:And the hardware comes with the seats, right?
Waylon:Correct. Yeah, all the hardware, including the Allen wrench, comes in a little bag in the kit. We'll just go ahead and repeat the process, release the teeth and slide the track up to reach the second attachment point on the bottom. There you go.
All right, once you get this side of the slider installed, you want to take this connecting rod right here, you want it through this hole, and I suggest putting it on this slider before you install the slider. Makes for a little easier on the install. Slide it down, there you go. All right, now your handle is functional, so go ahead and release those teeth again, slide the track up. Go ahead and slide the track up until you can see that hole come through right there, and install your attachment.
You're going to want to wait until you get both those bolts in loosely before you tighten them down. That one's in good and tight, and now we can go back to the first one we did now that this is working. Once you get the last one installed, go back and tighten down the first one we did. Make sure everything's nice and good and tight.
Once you've got all your bolts tight, you're going to want to go ahead and disengage your teeth, and make sure the sliders are level. There we go. Now we're all ready to install this on the bracket. We're going to go ahead and repeat this process on the other bucket.
All right, once you get both of your sliders in place, you're going to install the bracket, but before you do that, you want to make sure that your adjustment handles, right here, for the recline mechanism are on the outside. You don't want those to face on the inside, not going to work when we install the console later on. So, grab your powder-coated bracket. Now on this, there's two sides to this. There's a lower end and a raised end. Obviously, you want the raised end at the front of the buckets, so line that up. How you looking over there, Freddy? Good?
Freddy:I'm good. All on.
Waylon:All right. Now again, in the packet of the supplied hardware we do have the nuts for this, and we're going to install four on each side. With the bracket installed, next step is just to slide this bad boy into the cab and get it bolted down to the floor.
Freddy:Let's get to it.
Waylon:Once you get those bolts lined up, you're just going to tighten them down to the frame.
Freddy:Once you get the seats in, you can tighten all your hardware.
Waylon:Once you have the bracket bolted down to the floor, the next step is to install the center console, so you want to take this, slide it in the place between the two buckets, and pop out these center cup holders. You've got to reach in there, kind of in the dark, and you'll find a Velcro strap. Simple, yet effective. What you're going to do is you're going to take this Velcro strap and Velcro it down to the bracket, good and tight. Once that's done, cup holders back in, and you're ready to go.
The only thing you're going to need to do to prep the door panels for installation is grab an awl, or any small, sharp object, and you're going to want to feel through here, through the panel, and find out where this is punctured, and then simply just press through. You're going to have to put that screw right through there. That's all you're going to have to do. Do that all the way around, and repeat for the other door panel.
To install these door panels, you're just going to reutilize the original hardware. I find it's easier to go ahead and kind of start it off through the hole we punched with the awl, and get it started, lined up, and screwed in. Don't worry about the handles for the door or the window. We'll get to those after all the screws are installed.
One thing I do want to point out while we're doing this, since you're going to be reusing your original hardware. The owner of this truck has since changed his out. Originally, this had a stainless steel flange around it, gave it a little bit more of a finished edge and encompassed a little bit more of this panel area right here, with a recessed area. Now would be the time, if you wanted to change this out, upgrade it, maybe use a black screw to blend in, that'd be up to you, now would be the time to do it though.
With the door panel screwed in, the next step is to install your handles. It's a little tricky, a little scary, you actually have to cut the panel, but it's simple enough. What you're going to do is feel through until you can find the attachment points on both sides, and you're going to want to make a small incision. You're going to turn into a surgeon for a minute. A small X, then you're going to poke that handle through it. So again, right there, I can feel where the crank site is. You can see it. I suggest a sharp razor blade. One X, then the other side. Once I X through, if you cut all the way through, you should be able to just pop it through. Handle goes in, tighten down your set screw, and you're good to go. Way to go, Freddy. I told you we'd be done by lunch.
Freddy:Honestly, I am super impressed. It installed super easy. Everything lined up great. And you're right, it installed super quick. I'm very impressed.
Waylon:It's basically a swap. You're going to reuse your factory hardware, so you're basically just replacing everything you've got, but the end result is a massive upgrade in not only comfort but, obviously, style.
Freddy:Yeah, it really does look amazing.
Waylon:Well, thanks. One thing I did want to point out is we do offer a bench option for these trucks as well, both in a 55 and a 60-inch bench to fit the early model trucks as well as the late model. These buckets, as a matter of fact, will fit all the way from 1960 to 1987. The only thing that changes, the bracket and the console are a little bit different, and, of course, door panels are different per year. We also do dashes. This one, obviously, didn't come with a factory dash, but when you get up into the years that do, we supply a dash that matches this interior as well.
Freddy:Awesome. This TMI interior, along with other TMI products for your classic Chevy truck, can be found at CJPonyParts.com.
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