Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966

CJ's Part Number: DBC1
MSRP: $73.98

Regular Price: $71.99

Special Price: $50.39

1490572800 9832
Earn 50 RPM Points What's this?
1490054400 1490918400
On Sale: Up to 30% Off Sale!
Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966
Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966 Play Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966 Video 1

Product Description

Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Kit with OE Metal Lines for 1965-1966 Mustang with Non-Power Drum Brakes.

This kit allows you to upgrade your single bowl brake master cylinder to a modern, safer dual bowl without any extensive line bending or modifications. Includes pre-bent lines and a fully remanufactured master cylinder.

Please Note: The original push rod from your single bowl master cylinder must be reused to provide the correct pedal height and drive for the new master cylinder. Do not use the one included with the dual bowl master cylinder.

Click Here to visit our tech article for installation instructions.

Similar Mustang Parts

similar Mustang parts More Brake Master Cylinders  

Installation Instructions

Mustang Installation

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

Product Reviews

Write a review
Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966 is rated 4.4 out of 5 by 29.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Dual Bowl Conversion kit I installed this kit this past weekend on my 65 Drum/Drum. Kit had everything I needed. Fit was decent (didn't need to bend the lines but did need to disconnect the existing rear line from the firewall to attach to new line from MC, then reattached the line to the firewall). Bench bled the MC, but took a while to blead the breaks with the help of my wife. Took 3 hours (had some issues removing input lane from distribution block). All in all, I'm happy with the kit and would recommend to others.
Date published: 2015-06-04
Rated 5 out of 5 by from works nicely on 1964 1/2 Great safety upgrade. Works on 64 1/2. I have seen lots of questions on how to hook up the pressure switch that activates the taillights. Just take the kit to NAPA, etc when you get it, along with your original screw-in switch that was previously mounted to your original master cylinder. They can provide the fittings that you need to place the pressure switch onto the brake lines. There will be enough wiggle room on the brake lines to do this easily. Mine works fine in-line on the rear brake line near the firewall. Also, despite what the CJ video says, I don't see how you can do this installation without bleeding your brakes afterwards. Expect to bleed your brakes which will only improve safety and performance.
Date published: 2016-10-18
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Great safety upgrade Bought this along with a bunch of other brake parts for a 1966 Mustang that had sat for 10 years. Kit is terrific, but with some minor issues. First, there are no instructions, but there is a video. The video is great, but I had to destroy the old master cylinder to get the pushrod out. Second, as others have said, the fitting to the front brakes on the distribution block was the wrong size. I was able to buy an adapter, but better yet, a brake parts house was able to put the right fitting on and then re-flare the pipe. Better fit and look.
Date published: 2015-10-08
Rated 2 out of 5 by from poor fitment Be prepared to do the following when installing this dual master cyl kit on original 66 Coupe: 1. Purchase an adapter for the included flare fitting to the factory distribution block, cut and re-flare line. 2. Significantly re-bend both included lines for proper fitment.
Date published: 2016-10-03
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Worked Great! With a small caveat Installed the dual bowl on my 66 mustang replacing the original single bowl master cylinder. The original distribution box on my 66 has a 1/4 inch connectors and the kit only has 3/8's. I had to purchase a 1/4 plug and turn the distribution box around 180 degrees so that the 1/4 plug that used to be the main feed from the master cylinder faced the back of the firewall. After that everything connected fine and worked great, but I can no longer bolt down the distribution box to the engine compartment.
Date published: 2015-10-18
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Nice kit Bought this kit to convert to a dual master cylinder. The front line has a 3/16 fitting to the distribution block but the block was 1/4 inch, needed to buy an adapter.
Date published: 2015-05-26
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Nice upgrade Just put this on my '66 Mustang and glad I did. Definite safety advantage over the old single reservoir and a little more brake pedal. The only disappointment was the brake line adapter kit. The rear brake line adapter leaked but after inverting the coupler it sealed up. The front line was the big problem. The adapter line would not bolt to my proportioning valve as the fitting was too small. My old line would not bolt to the master cylinder as it was too small. I had to fabricate a line that would work. I cut off the master cylinder fitting from the new adapter line and one end of my old line. I had to drill out the center of the master cylinder fitting so that I could run one end of my old line thru it. I then had to flange the old line to the fitting and install it. It worked perfectly but took a lot more time to complete the job than expected.
Date published: 2016-07-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Easy Install I replaced my original single bowl cylinder with this kit. The install was pretty easy and I am no master mechanic. The hardest part was getting the original fittings loose from the distribution block. I did have to purchase a 3/16 to 1/4 adapter that goes to the front lines. Cost about $2 from Autozone. The kit also came with the boot but I didn't see that listed. I now have a spare boot since I purchased one as well.
Date published: 2016-09-14
  • y_2017, m_3, d_24, h_23
  • bvseo_bulk, prod_bvrr, vn_bulk_1.0.0
  • cp_1, bvpage1
  • co_hasreviews, tv_0, tr_29
  • loc_en_US, sid_DBC1, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=RELEVANCE, direction=DESCENDING)]
  • clientName_cjponyparts
  • bvseo_sdk, p_sdk, 3.2.0
  • CLOUD, getContent, 37.84ms

Product Questions

If we buy this dual cylinder for my 65 4 wheel drum brake car, can we use this cylinder when we upgrade to front disc and drum rear?

Asked by: Mickey65
No, you would need a disc/drum master cylinder.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2017-02-08

will this work on my 1963 Falcon Futura?

Asked by: Lowboy
The vendor has not provided any information regarding cross-fitments of this part to any other model then what is listed.
Answered by: CJPP Dave
Date published: 2017-01-11

will this work on 66 f100

Asked by: chris0066
The vendor has not provided any information regarding cross-fitments of this part to any other model then what is listed.
Answered by: CJPP Dave
Date published: 2016-12-27

Will this dual bowl master cylinder conversion kit also fit a 1965 ford Fairlane 500, 200ci, 6 cyl?

Asked by: Find4
The vendor has not provided any information regarding cross-fitments of this part to any other model then what is listed.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-08-29

where and how would i find the adapter listed in the reviews?

Asked by: mattyk
Your local parts store should be able to get the correct fitting, not all cars will need a fitting, this kit fits the majority of the cars, some came with a different size fitting.
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-06-06

Can this be used with adisc conversation

Asked by: den66
You will need this master cylinder, http://www.cjponyparts.com/dual-bowl-master-cylinder-conversion-kit-non-power-disc-brakes-oe-lines-1965-1966/p/DBC3/
Answered by: rk cjpp
Date published: 2016-04-01

I have a 64 1/2 coupe. Where would you mount the brake light pressure switch with this application?

Asked by: CDodson
the early 65 cars with the pressure switch will need HW2466 to plumb in line between the line and master cylinder.
Answered by: tom cjpp
Date published: 2016-01-26

I have the master cylinder already. Can you sell me the accessories that come with the kit separately?

Asked by: zugdon
MU14200O is our part number for the line kit only.
Answered by: tom cjpp
Date published: 2016-07-10
  • y_2017, m_3, d_24, h_23CST
  • bvseo_bulk, prod_bvqa, vn_bulk_1.0.0
  • cp_1, bvpage1
  • co_hasquestionsanswers, tq_20
  • loc_en_US, sid_DBC1, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=LAST_APPROVED_ANSWER_SUBMISSION_TIME, direction=DESCENDING)]
  • clientName_cjponyparts
  • bvseo_sdk, p_sdk, 3.2.0
  • CLOUD, getContent, 11.02ms

You Might Also Like

Product Video

Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: As we’ve said in many or our videos, technology has come a long way in the last 15 years, especially in the area of safety. If you’re going to drive your Mustang on the streets, safety should be a main concern, especially when adding or upgrading parts. The case of our ’65 Coupe, we’ve upgraded our lighting to much better LED lighting, and also added three-point seatbelts for increased safety. Today, we’re going to upgrade the brakes, in particular the brake master cylinder. On the ’64 through ’66 Mustang, the brake master cylinder is a single reservoir goes out to all four wheels.

If you had a problem with your brake lines at any of these wheels, you can actually lose your entire braking system. In ’67, Ford switched to a dual bowl master cylinder. It’s got a reservoir for your rear brakes, and a separate one for the front. This has become a very popular upgrade for the ’64 through ’66 cars. Today, I’m going to show you how to do it using our ’65 Coupe. We offer kits that will give you all the parts necessary to do a dual bowl master conversion on your early Mustang. Our ’65 uses drum brakes, so we’re using the ’67 through ’70 dual bowl drum brake master cylinder, which includes the push rod, which we may or may not need and we’ll get to that later.

The kit also includes both lines necessary, a plug for the port you’re not going to be using and a union to connect to your factory rear brake line. For this installation, you’ll need a 3/8-inch ratchet, 5/8-inch socket, 9/16-inch socket, six-inch extension, 9/16-inch wrench, 1/2-inch wrench, 7/16-inch wrench, 3/8-inch line wrench or a standard wrench will work, large flathead screwdriver and a flashlight.

We’re going to remove two lines from the distribution block to start the installation, the main line here and the bottom one here that goes to our rear brake. I’m going to make sure you get the correct line. In our case, it’s going to be this on right here and this one here. Once they’re both disconnected, then we can unbolt and remove our master cylinder. We’re going to start with the rear brake lining to the bottom one here. Carefully slightly bend that out of the way once it’s disconnected. Now, we’re going to take this applied plug and put it right in that port we’ve just removed.

Now we’re going to remove the front line that goes from our factory master cylinder to our distribution block. Before we unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall, we want to disconnect the push rod from our brake pedal. Underneath the dashboard you start by removing the harness that goes to your brake light switch. Unfortunately, you can’t see it on camera, but right behind the brake light switch my finger is touching is a cotter pin. Once you remove that cotter pin, that will actually separate the push rod from the switch and the pedal assembly. Then I’m going to unbolt the master cylinder and remove it.

There we go, we got it separated. Now that it’s disconnected from the pedal, we can remove the master cylinder from the firewall. To do that, we remove these two bolts down here. The top ones can stay. It’s just the two bottom ones that holds the firewall. We mentioned in the introduction that it comes with a new push rod you may or may not use. What you’ll want to do is measure the push rod that comes off the car. Make sure the one included is the same length. If it is, you can use it. If not, reuse the original one.

Unfortunately for my sake, but unfortunately for camera sake, this normally has to be punched out. Ours is broken. It came right out. That is probably not going to happen when you have this at home. What you’re going to want to do, put the bottom of this in a vice. With the push rod still installed … Let’s put it back in here so you can sort of see what I’m saying here. With this in a vice, you want to put a punch or something on this end and you’ll want to hammer it out. This usually is difficult to get out. Ours, like I said happened to be broken so we can’t show you. Again, put this in a vice. Put a punch through this end here, and just hammer until this push rod comes out. Then we’ll compare it with our new one.

As you can see, our factory push rod is longer. Make sure everything works properly with our brake pedal where we use our factory push rod. Now that we’ve decided we can use our factory push rod, we’re going to bench plate the master cylinder. With the push rod, we do offer adjustable ones. If you wanted to go with a new one, you can buy the adjustable one and measure it out. The factory one is going to work fine on our application. Now to bench bleed the master cylinder, you start by removing these two plugs. Install the plugs provided with the master cylinder.

Just tighten them up by hand. You don’t have to actually crank them down. Now, we’re going to put in our vice and bench bleed. I’m going to grab some brake fluid. We’re going to top off the master cylinder to start. You don’t have to bring it all the way to the very tip top but get close. What you want to do is grab a screwdriver. You can use the push rod, but a screwdriver is going to be a lot easier. You can put it where the push rod is going to go. Basically, what you’re going to do is just push in, get the bubbles out. Just keep slowly pushing in. Once you get all the air out, it will get nice and hard when pushed in. When you have a firm pedal, you know you have it right.

Once you only go about 1/8-inch or a 1/4-inch, you’re done. Before we bolt the master cylinder in, we’re going to install the push rod boot that’s included with it. Install the original push rod. The original push rod doesn’t have a clip on it, so it’s basically going to be held in place by the boot, but once it’s bolted on it will be fine. Line it up, and we’re ready to install. We put the cylinder down into place. Then bolt it on. Now we’re going to install the hard lines that are included in our dual bowl conversion kit. This line here with the block fitting is going to go to our distribution block, which is going to run our front brakes. This line here is going to go to your rear brakes.

I’m not going to promise you these are going to fit 100 percent. Your car could be up to 50 years old. If the lines were changed or the distribution block was changed, the fitting may be off a little bit, but it will definitely get you in the neighborhood with what we’re looking for. We’re going to start with the front brake line, which is actually going to go from the rear port on our master cylinder over to our distribution block. Basically, it will fit just like that. Once we tighten then at the distribution block, now we can tighten at the master cylinder.

On the rear line, the first thing we’re going to do is install the union that’s included with our kit. Then we can bend that back in the neighborhood where it came from over here. We’ll connect this to the master cylinder side first. What you’ll want to do here is basically get an idea where this is going to sit. If it faces downward like it should … Remember, we moved that rear line out a little bit. You just want to bend that carefully back towards where your connection is going to be to your master cylinder. The lines are flexible. They’re easy to bend. Just make sure you don’t kink it.

Now you want to hold the union while you tighten the fittings. Finally, we can tighten at the master cylinder. Now back under the dash, we’re going to reach back at the pedal. Once you get the clip in, reinstall the harness. You’re installation is finished. At this point, you want to check and make sure you have a good pedal. Because we bench bled the master cylinder, you should have a good pedal and should be good to go. If you do have a soft pedal, you want to bleed the brakes as normal starting with the line furthest from the master cylinder.

The dual bowl is an excellent safety upgrade, and as we showed it’s a pretty easy installation. Keep in mind, these lines are designed for factory lines. If the lines have been changed in your car, you may need some adapters to make it work. Overall, the installation should only take you around an hour. You’ll be back on the road in no time.