Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966

CJ's Part Number: DBC1
MSRP: $70.98

Regular Price: $68.99

Special Price: $51.74

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DBC1 Play Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Non Power Drum Brakes OE Steel Kit 1965-1966 Video 1

Product Description

Dual Bowl Master Cylinder Conversion Kit with OE Metal Lines for 1965-1966 Mustang with Non-Power Drum Brakes.

This kit allows you to upgrade your single bowl brake master cylinder to a modern, safer dual bowl without any extensive line bending or modifications. Includes pre-bent lines and a fully remanufactured master cylinder.

Please Note: The original push rod from your single bowl master cylinder must be reused to provide the correct pedal height and drive for the new master cylinder. Do not use the one included with the dual bowl master cylinder.

Click Here to visit our tech article for installation instructions.

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Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Ford Mustang years:

Product Reviews

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It is nice that all of these parts are put together in a "kit" but it would be nicer if the extra mile was gone and an appropriate length rod and retaining ring was included in the kit. Also, the instructions are sparse and as such will require a great deal of confidence when you are bending the lines (from kit and existing) to get it all to fit. My reccomendation to remove the stock push rod without damaging the retainer ring is to carefully cut the old piston length wise and then gently pry it apart to get the stock rod out. Be carefull cutting! Included plug and union may not work for your application as noted in instructions, I spent another $7 on correctly sized plug/union at the hardware store to get it all to fit correctly.
John October 8, 2014
Needs some tweeking
In general I'm happy with this but I have several recommendations:
1. Online you mentioned to use the original pushrod instead of the one that comes with it, but nothing is mentioned in the package when it arrives. In addition, nothing is mentioned about front/rear brake arrangement
2. The line to the front brakes (tee) fits reasonably well requiring just a little tweaking. However, the rear brake lines aren't even close, requiring a lot of careful bending and adjusting to line them up. In addition, I had to trim the line to the rear and re-flare it.
3. There is no provision in the kit for the brake light switch. I recommend providing a tee with IF on each end and NPT in the middle to thread the switch into, instead of the union for the rear brakes. This is a standard part and it is what I did.
Simon Huizer October 3, 2014
Quick Swap? Not so much..
The instructions on this unit say that you should use the original push rod. However, my original push rod is at least 3/4 inch to short. An adjustable push rod is almost $50!! We used the new push rod (supplied in the kit) and lengthened it by 1 inch (so its final length is 6 1/4 inch from the center of the eye. Now it works. This is a very low mileage 65 6 cyl.
JW Boyd June 12, 2013
Cyl fit great. The rod would not come off so I removed the C-clip and removed old rod with the piston. I than put it on the vice and cut the old piston long way in half with a grinding wheel just up to where the rod was. I did this on both sides and it released the rod. I than took the telflon ring off the new one and used it on the old one and installed the old Rod into the new cylinde. Was very easy.
Manny April 27, 2013
Easy installation but get yourself a tubing bender
This is an easy and prudent safety modification for 65-66 Mustangs. Relying on a single bowl system may be original but is not safe. This kit makes changing to a safer dual bowl system very easy. The instructions aren't as good as the kit. They're written as though the drum and disc brake systems were the same, which they are not. Also, you will need to tweak the hardlines and the stainless tubing is REALLY STIFF. I like the standard steel lines. Use a plier-type tubing bender for a nice fit.
Bruce Kawaguchi August 21, 2012
beware on a 66!!
thought this would be a quick switch-BUT on a 66 (i found out the hard way) the push rod is kept inside the mc by a steel or nylon washer that gets ruined when you have to separate your original p.r. from the original m.c. (you must use your orig. p.r.) Now the bad-once you ruin the retaining clip, there is now nothing to hold your original p.r. inside your new m.c.!! most 66's dont have a brake pedal stop, so your pushrod can actually pull out of your m.c. (that would be bad). i actually took the rubber washer off the supplied pushrod and put it on my orig., but that didn't work either (not enough resistance). Called CJ and they don't carry the retaining ring needed (why they dont send you one with the 'kit' is beyond me). Also the prebent lines that i received didn't line up well at all, so i actually had to bend/flare my own. Not real happy here, as now i have to spend my time tracking down a 30 cent clip to make the whole debacle work :(
jp July 29, 2012
Dual Cylinder Conversion
My original single bowl master cylinder had been worrying me for a while, I didn't know about a dual cylinder conversion until I happened across it here. Very easy to do, it almost fell in to place. I had to re-position my brake lines a bit (they are not original), but there was nothing difficult about it. Very reassuring to know my brake system now has some system redundancy should any part of it have a problem.
Carl May 8, 2012
65 Coupe
I used this in a complete replacement of all brake components on my wife's 65 Coupe. So far so good. I would highly recommend this for anyone wanting to upgrade from the single bowl master cylinder.
Todd May 1, 2012
8 Results

Product Video

By Bill Tumas: As we’ve said in many or our videos, technology has come a long way in the last 15 years, especially in the area of safety. If you’re going to drive your Mustang on the streets, safety should be a main concern, especially when adding or upgrading parts. The case of our ’65 Coupe, we’ve upgraded our lighting to much better LED lighting, and also added three-point seatbelts for increased safety. Today, we’re going to upgrade the brakes, in particular the brake master cylinder. On the ’64 through ’66 Mustang, the brake master cylinder is a single reservoir goes out to all four wheels.

If you had a problem with your brake lines at any of these wheels, you can actually lose your entire braking system. In ’67, Ford switched to a dual bowl master cylinder. It’s got a reservoir for your rear brakes, and a separate one for the front. This has become a very popular upgrade for the ’64 through ’66 cars. Today, I’m going to show you how to do it using our ’65 Coupe. We offer kits that will give you all the parts necessary to do a dual bowl master conversion on your early Mustang. Our ’65 uses drum brakes, so we’re using the ’67 through ’70 dual bowl drum brake master cylinder, which includes the push rod, which we may or may not need and we’ll get to that later.

The kit also includes both lines necessary, a plug for the port you’re not going to be using and a union to connect to your factory rear brake line. For this installation, you’ll need a 3/8-inch ratchet, 5/8-inch socket, 9/16-inch socket, six-inch extension, 9/16-inch wrench, 1/2-inch wrench, 7/16-inch wrench, 3/8-inch line wrench or a standard wrench will work, large flathead screwdriver and a flashlight.

We’re going to remove two lines from the distribution block to start the installation, the main line here and the bottom one here that goes to our rear brake. I’m going to make sure you get the correct line. In our case, it’s going to be this on right here and this one here. Once they’re both disconnected, then we can unbolt and remove our master cylinder. We’re going to start with the rear brake lining to the bottom one here. Carefully slightly bend that out of the way once it’s disconnected. Now, we’re going to take this applied plug and put it right in that port we’ve just removed.

Now we’re going to remove the front line that goes from our factory master cylinder to our distribution block. Before we unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall, we want to disconnect the push rod from our brake pedal. Underneath the dashboard you start by removing the harness that goes to your brake light switch. Unfortunately, you can’t see it on camera, but right behind the brake light switch my finger is touching is a cotter pin. Once you remove that cotter pin, that will actually separate the push rod from the switch and the pedal assembly. Then I’m going to unbolt the master cylinder and remove it.

There we go, we got it separated. Now that it’s disconnected from the pedal, we can remove the master cylinder from the firewall. To do that, we remove these two bolts down here. The top ones can stay. It’s just the two bottom ones that holds the firewall. We mentioned in the introduction that it comes with a new push rod you may or may not use. What you’ll want to do is measure the push rod that comes off the car. Make sure the one included is the same length. If it is, you can use it. If not, reuse the original one.

Unfortunately for my sake, but unfortunately for camera sake, this normally has to be punched out. Ours is broken. It came right out. That is probably not going to happen when you have this at home. What you’re going to want to do, put the bottom of this in a vice. With the push rod still installed … Let’s put it back in here so you can sort of see what I’m saying here. With this in a vice, you want to put a punch or something on this end and you’ll want to hammer it out. This usually is difficult to get out. Ours, like I said happened to be broken so we can’t show you. Again, put this in a vice. Put a punch through this end here, and just hammer until this push rod comes out. Then we’ll compare it with our new one.

As you can see, our factory push rod is longer. Make sure everything works properly with our brake pedal where we use our factory push rod. Now that we’ve decided we can use our factory push rod, we’re going to bench plate the master cylinder. With the push rod, we do offer adjustable ones. If you wanted to go with a new one, you can buy the adjustable one and measure it out. The factory one is going to work fine on our application. Now to bench bleed the master cylinder, you start by removing these two plugs. Install the plugs provided with the master cylinder.

Just tighten them up by hand. You don’t have to actually crank them down. Now, we’re going to put in our vice and bench bleed. I’m going to grab some brake fluid. We’re going to top off the master cylinder to start. You don’t have to bring it all the way to the very tip top but get close. What you want to do is grab a screwdriver. You can use the push rod, but a screwdriver is going to be a lot easier. You can put it where the push rod is going to go. Basically, what you’re going to do is just push in, get the bubbles out. Just keep slowly pushing in. Once you get all the air out, it will get nice and hard when pushed in. When you have a firm pedal, you know you have it right.

Once you only go about 1/8-inch or a 1/4-inch, you’re done. Before we bolt the master cylinder in, we’re going to install the push rod boot that’s included with it. Install the original push rod. The original push rod doesn’t have a clip on it, so it’s basically going to be held in place by the boot, but once it’s bolted on it will be fine. Line it up, and we’re ready to install. We put the cylinder down into place. Then bolt it on. Now we’re going to install the hard lines that are included in our dual bowl conversion kit. This line here with the block fitting is going to go to our distribution block, which is going to run our front brakes. This line here is going to go to your rear brakes.

I’m not going to promise you these are going to fit 100 percent. Your car could be up to 50 years old. If the lines were changed or the distribution block was changed, the fitting may be off a little bit, but it will definitely get you in the neighborhood with what we’re looking for. We’re going to start with the front brake line, which is actually going to go from the rear port on our master cylinder over to our distribution block. Basically, it will fit just like that. Once we tighten then at the distribution block, now we can tighten at the master cylinder.

On the rear line, the first thing we’re going to do is install the union that’s included with our kit. Then we can bend that back in the neighborhood where it came from over here. We’ll connect this to the master cylinder side first. What you’ll want to do here is basically get an idea where this is going to sit. If it faces downward like it should … Remember, we moved that rear line out a little bit. You just want to bend that carefully back towards where your connection is going to be to your master cylinder. The lines are flexible. They’re easy to bend. Just make sure you don’t kink it.

Now you want to hold the union while you tighten the fittings. Finally, we can tighten at the master cylinder. Now back under the dash, we’re going to reach back at the pedal. Once you get the clip in, reinstall the harness. You’re installation is finished. At this point, you want to check and make sure you have a good pedal. Because we bench bled the master cylinder, you should have a good pedal and should be good to go. If you do have a soft pedal, you want to bleed the brakes as normal starting with the line furthest from the master cylinder.

The dual bowl is an excellent safety upgrade, and as we showed it’s a pretty easy installation. Keep in mind, these lines are designed for factory lines. If the lines have been changed in your car, you may need some adapters to make it work. Overall, the installation should only take you around an hour. You’ll be back on the road in no time.