Roush Front Chin Splitter for 2013-2014 V6 and GT Mustangs and 2013 Boss 302 Mustangs.
The Front Chin Splitter, from ROUSH? adds true race-inspired styling and performance to your 2013-2014 Ford Mustang including V6, GT, Boss 302 and California Specials.
ROUSH's Front Chin Splitter is made from high-strength TPO (thermal plastic olefin) with a black grained finish for an OEM look and long lasting durability. The plastic is molded with high-pressure injection, the same process used by the automotive manufactures which allows for excellent impact resistance, tough yet flexible, easy color ability, low density and light weight.
Designed with OEM CAD data to ensure precise fitment for an easy installation, no trimming needed. Includes all required hardware, templates and instructions.
ROUSH's Front Chin Splitter helps to reduce drag and increase downforce on your Mustang. When in use, the front chin splitter improves your car's aerodynamics by improving the transition between the high-velocity airflow underneath your Mustang and the much slower freestream airflow of the ambient atmosphere. The front chin splitter works by providing a space for the underbody airflow to decelerate and expand so that it does not cause excessive flow separation and drag. Very scientific!
*Does not require paint!
Today, we're going to be installing a Roush Performance Chin Splitter on our 2013 Mustang. Roush produces a splitter to fit all 2013 V6 and GT models, and it comes factory on all the Roush Mustangs. The splitter will give your car a more aggressive frontend while bolting to your stock bumper cover.
The chin splitter includes detailed instructions along with other mounting hardware necessary to install. It will require cutting your factory chin splitter, so make sure you have the proper tools before beginning the installation.
For this installation, you'll need a lift or jack and jack stands, a small screwdriver or pick, a quarter-inch ratchet, a short extension, a 7-millimeter socket, an 8-millimeter socket, a tape measure, an air or electric saw, a deburring tool, a razor blade, a drill, an 1/8-inch drill bit, quarter-inch drill bit, and safety glasses.
We'll be installing the Roush performance splitter on our 2013 Gotta Have It Street car. The first step is getting the car safely supported in the air using either a lift or a jack stand. At that point, you'll need to remove the factory lower air deflector to begin your installation.
First step is to turn your wheel inward so you can get to the two 7-millimeter bolts that are holding on the edges of the front splitter. Next, you remove the three 7-millimeter bolts holding on the edges of the splitter. Now, you want to repeat that process on the other side.
Next step is to remove the lower air deflector, which is held in place by six 8-millimeter bolts in the front, five 7-millimeter bolts in the rear. Now, move on to the five rear 7-millimeter bolts. Now, you can remove your lower air deflector. Once you remove the lower air deflector, you want to access the final two 8-millimeter bolts and remove them.
Next, remove the eight gray plastic U-nut holders. We'll use a small screwdriver or pick, get a hold on it, and then they simply pop out. Now, you can remove the three pushpins located on either side of the bottom of the fascia. Using a small pick, push up on the tab to remove it. Now, you need to remove the six push tabs that are holding the fascia to the lower of the bumper. Push the tab in and pull down. Now, remove your factory splitter.
The next step in installation is to modify a factory splitter, since part of it is used with insulation of the new Roush splitter. First step is to remove the factory mounting tabs from the top surface of your splitter. You may need a razor blade of some sort. You'll find, for the most part, if you just put pressure on the tab, it will simply snap off.
You want to continue to do that with the rest of the tabs. Typically, they'll remove cleanly. If there is any excess, just take a razor blade and clean the surface to make sure it is flat with the splitter. Here, you can see our Roush splitter with our factory splitter. The Roush splitter is going to use the factory splitter as a base for a mounting point, which is going to require you to trim it 18 1/2 inches in from the end.
You want to cut just this top piece off using the pneumatic saw, so this can lay on top of it. Now, you have to finish modifying your factory splitter to use as a base for the new Roush splitter. You need to measure 18 1/2 inches from the end and mark the section to be cut.
Now, you need to actually cut out your factory splitter and mount your Roush splitter to it. Because of the flexibility of the factory splitter, it's a good idea to have two people do this. We're going to have RK from our restoration shop give us a hand in cutting our splitter.
Now, you want to grab some sort of a deburring tool and just clean up your edges. Since it's not visible, it doesn't have to be perfect. You just want to get rid of any of the large pieces. Now, you want to place your Roush splitter on top of your original modified splitter to see how it fits.
You're going to line up the holes in the center and then check your edges for fitment. The Roush splitter should fit flush with the end of the factory splitter here. In our case, we have to trim this a little bit more to make it sit flush. Recheck our fitment. Now, it fits nice and flush in the corner like it's supposed to.
Now, we need to install the eight supplied J-clips in the factory location, making sure the stud is pointing upward. They simply slide into place onto our bumper cover. The Roush cover will require to drill six additional holes in your bumper cover, but this time, you want to grab the splitter and put it in place using three screws to hold it, as template to drill your holes.
Now, you want to line your new splitter up with the edge of the bumper cover, make sure it's flush, and mark your holes that you're going to be drilling. Now, you want to drill your holes. Your holes are required to be a quarter inch. You want to start with an eighth-inch to give yourself a pilot hole.
Now, we'll drill our eighth-inch pilot holes. We can get our quarter-inch drill bit and drill the actual mounting holes. Now, you want to repeat the process on the other side. Once you've drilled your holes using the new splitter as a template, you can remove the three mounting bolts you'd put in earlier. Now, you can put the splitter aside.
Now, you're going to go back to your supplied hardware bag and grab six more of the J-clips to install into your newly drilled holes. We're now ready for reassembling. First step is to remove the J-clips from the factory air deflectors since you will no longer be using them. Simply pull up on them and slide them off.
You can now begin installing your splitter and lining it up with the holes in the front, installing screws into the holes you just drilled and installed J-clips onto. Now, you can install the last six supplied J-clips on the three points on either end of the splitter. Now, you want to grab your modified original splitter to put in place underneath your Roush splitter.
The first screw you want to install is in this cutout area here, winds up underneath your new splitter. Now, do the same thing on the other side to hold the splitter in place. Now, you want to install the original splitter into the wheel wall area using the factory hardware. Now, you're ready to reinstall your factory air deflector.
We're going to make sure the outside ends fit between your new splitter and your original splitter. Now, you want to install three of the factory 7-millimeter screws on the outside ends of the factory splitter. Repeat the process on the other side. Now, you want to finish installing your factory air deflector using the last six supplied bolts in the Roush hardware pack.
Last step is install the rear of factory air deflector, reinstalling the factory 7-millimeter bolts that we removed earlier. That completes the installation of our Roush chin splitter on our 2013 Mustang. Due to the lowered stance, it gives the car a nice aggressive look.
Figure on about two to three hours for installation time, given the cutting and modifications required, so you'll be back on the road in no time.