Scott Drake Stainless Steel Hood Pin Kit for all 2005-2009 Mustangs.
When you're driving your 2005-2009 Mustang, you want to look good, but you also want to be sure you're as safe as possible. It's not just for your own benefit: it also benefits the other drivers on the road too. This Hood Pin Kit from Scott Drake can help you get the vintage look you want while keeping your hood from accidentally flying open when you’re on the road.
Features & Benefits:
- Includes the Pins, Plates, Cables and Special Mounting Brackets Needed for Installation
- Adds a Classic Muscle Car Look While Enhancing Safety
- Keeps Your Hood from Flying Up When You're Driving
- Comes with Detailed Installation Instructions
Sometimes, the hood latch will fail and cause your hood to fly open unexpectedly. You can keep this from happening by installing this Scott Drake S1MS-16892-SSK Stainless Steel Hood Pin Kit. It’ll give your Mustang the vintage look you want and keep your hood from accidentally opening while you’re driving, even if the hood latch system fails. This kit mounts to your car and includes the pins, plates, cables and special mounting brackets you'll need for installation.
Please Note: This hood pin kit also requires another install kit. CJ Pony Parts sells the correct kit (HW2965) to properly install these hood pins onto your Mustang.
Order a Scott Drake S1MS-16892-SSK Stainless Steel Hood Pin Kit for your 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 or 2009 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Will this fit on my 94' thunderbird Lx?
Will this work with my Cervini heat extractor fiberglass hood?
will this fit a 1999 mustang v6?
Will this fit a 2013 Mustang without making other modifications beyond the ones required for the install on a 2005-2009 Mustang?
Is this Hood Pin kit (S1MS-16892-SSK) the same one that is on the 2007 Shelby GT that was was built at Shelby American in their Vegas facility.
Hello. Is the picture showing black and stainless round plates in the kit so I can choose which color I want on the hood? Or is that black round plate a pad or spacer that is installed under the actual stainless plate? Thanks
Will these work a 2007 GT/CS with a Cervini 05-09 Mustang Heat Extractor Hood, also the after market hood struts i bought will not support the weight of the fiber glass, do you have recommendation?
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Just because they're meant to be functional, doesn't mean they can't look great as well. The Scott Drake kit includes these billet aluminum plates, stainless steel linchpins, and stainless steel hood pins as well. The complete kit is designed to fit all 2005 through 2009 Mustangs.
For this installation you need a small pick, Phillips head screwdriver, 1/4 inch ratchet, 10 mm socket, drill, 1/8 inch drill bit, 3/4 inch drill bit, although we do recommend a unibit, adjustable wrench, 3/4 inch wrench, marker, tape, Dremel tool, and safety glasses.
The Scott Drake kit includes brackets to mount the hood pins to your radiator support. To get to the place where we mount the bracket, we first have to remove the cover. The radiator support cover is held on by six of these little push pins here. To remove them, you want to pull up on the center of the pin, and then slide it out. Now, we'll remove the cover and set it aside.
Now, we're going to install the support brackets for the hood pins. They're going to bolt underneath our radiator brackets here. You want to make sure when it's installed it's going to be like this with it pointing towards the outside. Both brackets will have an "L" on them for the left side, that's going to be correct for that side facing up and you simply flip it over for the other side.
Lift up and slide the bracket underneath. Line up the holes and reinstall our hardware. You don't want to tighten it down all the way yet, just get it snug. Now you want line up the bracket with the outside edge of the support bracket for the radiator, and then we'll tighten them down. Now, do the same thing on the other side.
There we have installed both pins so we can mark our hood. We want to thread it about half way down. Don't get them too tight; just get them tight enough so they're not going to move. Now, I want to use a Sharpie just to mark the tip of our hood pin. Since they're stainless steel, they'll clean up real easily when we're done. We'll close the hood so it touches the hood pins. A quick press to mark it, and you can see where it left a little mark on our hood; that's where we're going to drill our pilot hole.
Now, we're ready to drill out pilot holes. This is probably the most difficult part of the installation of the hood pins. Not that it's difficult to drill the hole, but you're drilling a hole in your Mustang's hood so you want to be careful of what you're doing. You want to make sure the drill is at the same angle the pins going to through. You don't want to go straight up. You want to stay kind of at the same angle it's going to be when the hood is closed.
Next, we'll remove the hood pins before we drill the main holes. Now, we'll have to open up this hole to 3/4 of an inch. You want to start by opening it up from the top, but you'll have to probably have to open it up from the bottom as well. We'll put some tape around the areas to protect the paint. Now we're going to open up the hole from the bottom. Now, we'll test fit our pin and we're good.
You want to get the pin as close to perfectly centered in the hole as possible. It doesn't have to be dead center because the plate will take up the gap. But you want to get it close enough that there's no contact between the hood and the pin when closing your hood. Once you have them there, you can tighten them up and we're ready to install our plates.
You want to make the sure the hole is facing it crossways and then we're going to make them snug; we don't want to get them real tight yet because we still have to adjust for the plate height. Now, you want lay this seal and then the bushing and the plate, the oval towards the front. I'm going to lay the plate on top. Now, you want to grab your linchpin, see if it goes across. Okay, the height is perfect on that one. We can go back and tighten it down. You want to repeat the process on the other side.
Now, you can see over on the other side the linchpin won't go all the way through because the pins not up high enough. We'll have to loosen it up and thread it up once; go one thread further out and tighten it down. Once you have them adjusted, then you can tighten them down.
Now, we're ready to screw down the plates. You want to start by putting the seal over the pin. Then we're going to install the plate and the bushing. Make sure everything's lined up and then you'll install the pin to hold it in place. I recommend wrapping some tape around the drill bit to make sure you don't damage the billet when drilling the holes. Once we drill the first two holes we install two screws to make sure everything lines up. We're going to get these barely snugged; do not over tighten them. You can strip the aluminum hood very easily. Now I'll drill the last two, and we're ready to attach our lanyards.
Now, we need to attach the lanyards to the radiator support. The lanyard usually goes through the edge of the grill here. I usually like to put them on this flat spot right on the front edge of the radiator support. You can use a rivet or you can use a small screw to hold it in place.
The last part of the process is to cut the radiator support cover for your hood pins. If you don't feel comfortable cutting this, we do sell them precut. Scott Drake does provide a template, though, if you are going to cut it yourself. Line it up with the crease and with the edge of our radiator cover.
Now, we're ready to cut it out. Now, we use our sanding Dremel and clean it up a little bit. We'll reinstall our radiator support cover. We'll reinstall the plastic clips, push it into the hole and then push down the center and our installation's finished.
While hood pins may not be for everyone, if you need a set for your Mustang, it's tough to beat the look of the Scott Drake billet pins. You want to take your time with the installation, since you are drilling holes in your hood as well as cutting your radiator support cover. Figure out about two hours total, you'll be back on the road in no time.