Steeda Tri-Ax Street Short Throw Shifter for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 Mustangs with a Manual Transmission.
If you just picked up a new 2015-2017 Mustang and you’re looking for a little more out of that stock, sloppy manual shifter, then look no further! Steeda has your answer with their new Tri-Ax Street Short Throw Shifter designed specifically for your 2015-2017 GT, EcoBoost or V6 Mustang, available right here at CJ Pony Parts.
Features and Benefits:
- 30% Throw Reduction
- Made With High-Quality Billet Steel for Durable and Reliable Operation
- Coated in a Nickel-Plated Finish for Great Looks and Corrosion Protection
- Zero Increase in Shifter NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness)
- Includes a 360-Degree Enclosed Reverse Lockout
- Detailed Installation Instructions Included
With a relatively easy installation, this Steeda Tri-Ax Street Short Throw Shifter is the perfect choice for your S550 Mustang. Made from billet steel for a solid and reliable operation, this shifter is coated in a nickel-plated finish for great looks and corrosion protection. This manual short throw shifter also features a 30% in throw reduction and doesn’t increase NVH so you can dramatically improve your overall driving experience!
Please Note: Accepts factory shift knobs and aftermarket knobs with M12 x 1.25 thread pitch. Easy to install and does not require any permanent modifications to your Mustang.
The extensive list of Steeda parts includes everything from exhaust kits and shift kits to wheels and interior dress up parts. CJ Pony Parts offers a huge selection of Steeda parts to meet your specific performance and styling needs; and at prices that won’t break your car care budget.
Order a Steeda Tri-Ax Street Short Throw Shifter for your 2015-2017 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Product ReviewsWrite a review
is the there nvh or vibration with the steeda lever? are the throws shorter than the barton lever?
Hello, Does the actual height of the shifter change (how far the knob is above the center console)? Thanks.
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While I do offer complete replacement shifter assemblies for the 2015 and up Mustang, for some people, a short lever might be all you need to improve your shifting experience. If that's the case, a Steeda short throw shifter lever might be right up your alley. I'll show you how to install it using our 2015 Mustang GT.
The Steeda short throw shifter lever is going to be one of the simplest ways to convert to a shorter shifter on your 2015 through 2016 Mustang. This is going to replace the factory lever, it also includes a new version of a lock-out, and additional hardware for installation. It will require you to take apart your factory shifter bucket, but you're going to reinstall it and everything will look factory when the installation is finished. Again, with this style lever you also have the ability to add additional bushings or aftermarket brackets if you would like.
For this installation, you'll need a lift or a jack and jack-stands, small pair of vice grips, hammer, small punch, T20 Torx bit, 3/8 ratchet, 10 millimeter shallow socket, 10 millimeter deep socket, assorted extensions, swivel, 5/64 Allen key, and 3/32 Allen key.
We'll start the installation in the car, then eventually we're going to move underneath to finish it. First thing, I'm going to do though is remove our shift ball, and work on remove the shift bezel. The shift ball simply turns counter-clockwise to remove it. If you have the factory one, it will come right off. Aftermarket ones and using Loctite, you may need a strap wrench of some sort to get it loose.
Now I'm going to remove the bezel around the shifter with the shift boot. There's clips on the corners. I'm just going to separate the reverse lock-out lever from the reverse lock-out piece on the shifter itself. As you can see in our case, ours is actually chipped. This has been out of the car many time for different installations, and over time it got damaged. Actually nice thing is it does come with a new lock-out. What you're going to do though, there's three fingers. One here, one back here, and one over here with stock lock out, so we'll just push back with a finger, and lift up and off.
We'll put our bezel aside. Next pull this little plastic ring off here, and hang on to this because we'll need it later. You have to remove this pin next to remove this spring and the lock-out mechanism. First thing to do, push this spring down, we're just going to lock it out of the way. A pair of vice grips will do a fine job here. There's a couple different ways you can do this. You can get a small dowel, use a C-clamp to push it out, you can try using the small punch to hammer it out. In my case, I have an old pick I am going to use. That should be able to hammer it out for us. Just put it forward into gear so it's locked, and try to hammer it out.
I got the pin out, I'm just going to remove the vice grips and remove the spring. After spring removal, the last step is to remove the lockout mechanism itself. To do that, use a small torx screw over here on the driver side.
Now we can move under the car. The first step under the car is going to be to remove the rear support bracket here. It's held in place by two 10 millimeter nuts. We have the nuts off, now we're going to pull the rear support off the transmission shifter. So if you're looking to upgrade this bushing, now is the time to do so. Now we're going to separate the two halves of the shifter base itself. There's four screws, two on each side. We'll start with the two on our passenger side. The shifter is disconnected so you can actually push it over, give yourself a little more room to get to them.
Now we're going to pull the seal off the front of the shifter here, and separate the two halves. There is a gasket. Just give it a good tug, usually it will come apart. You want to be careful though, because the bottom comes out. The linkage will also come off with the bushings, push that off to the side for now.
Last step in removing the factory shifter lever is to remove these two screws inside the shifter housing. One in the back here, and one in the front here. Once we remove those two, then we can remove the shifter lever. When you remove the last screw the plate will fall out, as will the shifter handle.
Here's the comparison of the stock shifter we just removed and the Steeda shift handle we're going to be installing. As you can see, it's much shorter which will result in much shorter throws. Now before we can install, we have to take these plastic cups. The bottom one here, and a secondary one here, and transfer them over. So what you usually can just do with your finger is just pop them off. Make sure there is still plenty of grease, you can actually take some, if you want, from your original shifter. Put it over here on our Steeda. It's ready to reinstall.
All right, we're ready to put the new shift handle into place. Something I want to mention before we do so, if you look, there's a thread here on this side. It's only on the one side of the shift handle. You want to make sure the hole for the reverse lock-out collar screw is facing the passenger side when you install this. Be very particular about this because it's on the driver side from the factory, but the lock-out you use with the seated handle, it has to be on the passenger side.
We're about to lower part of the factory shifter bucket back into place, be careful with the gasket. Get it lined up and reinstall the hardware. I'm going to the original shifter arm assembly here with the bushings back into place. You have a front and a rear bushing, they have slots where there go into. The middle goes in the shifter cup itself. Make sure you're lined up and reinstall the bottom.
Once you get everything hand-tight, we're going to go back through and tighten everything up. We got everything back into place, now we're going to reinstall the seal on the front. The last step is to reinstall the rear support bracket. Now you can move to the interior. A quick next couple steps will be easier now, we're going to take this rubber boot, simply pop it off. Put it aside for now. We have a supplied grease, it was given to us by Steeda. Basically the whole thick section on the bottom here, we're going to install some grease. Now take the supplied two O-rings and put them down into place. One on the bottom indent and the other one goes on the top.
Now you can slide the reverse collar down, the opening facing the passenger side where the screw hole is going to be. Make sure it goes smoothly over both O-rings, moves up and down freely. Install the screw. Make sure it moves up and down smoothly. Locks, reverse, pull it up. We're good.
Now I'm going to install the lock-out spring again. Once again, use a pair of vice grips to clamp it down out of the way. Unlike the dowel pin the factory setup uses, Steeda provides really small Allen screws. One goes on each side, you want to thread them in evenly, enough to hold the spring in place. Make sure when the spring comes up, it's held in place.
Now we're going to reinstall the boot. The top seal of the boot here actually has a ring and a reverse collar for it, and the bottom goes in the factory location. Now I'm going to install the plastic ring we took off earlier. You want to make sure these two screws are inside the plastic ring. If they're outside of it, you'll have a clearance issue. Make sure they're tucked down inside. Put our shift boot in place. Then push it down into the base.
Actually tighten the first screw just until it touches to work your way around and evenly tighten the other ones. Make sure it feels good, nice and tight. Also make sure it moves freely. I'm going to take our boot, shifter is in neutral, press it down into place. We install your shift knob and your installation is finished.
The best way to describe the Steeda short throw shifter lever is this is how it should have come from the factory. Steeda claimed a 30 percent shorter throw, and being that it sits a full inch shorter, I believe every bit of that. It's nice and comfortable with your arm on the console, you can reach it very easily. As far as the installation goes, it's a little time consuming, and some small areas to work in. Figure about an hour and half to two hours, and you'll be back on the road in no time.