Barton Industries Short Throw Shifter Hybrid 3 With Reverse Lockout Collar GT 2015-2021

CJ's Part Number:
MS62-V
Rating:
99% of 100
From
$475.00

Barton Industries Hybrid 3 Short Throw Shifter with Reverse Lockout Collar for all 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021 GT Mustangs.

Achieve quicker shifts with your 2015-2021 GT Mustang that are more accurate and decisive by upgrading your shifter to a Barton Industries Hybrid 3 Short Throw Shifter with Reverse Lockout Collar from CJ Pony Parts! When Barton designed this short throw shifter, they set out to design a shifter that would get the quickest, smoothest, and most precise shifts for your S550 Mustang.

Features and Benefits:
- Smoother Shifts with 25% Throw Reduction
- Billet Reverse Lockout Collar
- Unique Cartridge Design
- Dual Mounting Options
- Adjustable Side to Side Spring Pressure Dials in Perfect Second to Third Shift Every Time
- More Accurate Shifts with 3 Bushing System
- Little to No Increase in NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harshness)
- Increased Side to Side Distance Between Gears for More Forgiving Shift
- Most Complete Shifter on the Market
- Includes all Necessary Hardware
- Made in the USA

Barton brings their Hybrid 3 Short Throw Shifter to S550 Mustang owners who are looking for an upgraded shifter feel for their beloved Mustangs. The Hybrid 3 shifter reduces throw by 25 percent, giving you quick shifts that are precise and accurate thanks to the shifters 3-bushing system. Side to side distance has been increased for more forgiving shifts with a side to side spring pressure that is adjustable to give you the control to dial in the perfect second to third gear shift every time. A dual mounting system gives you the option of mounting the shifter to your Mustang’s transmission directly with a solid linkage or to the body with a pivot linkage. This shifter comes with a billet reverse lockout collar in your choice of brushed aluminum or black powder coat. The lockout retains the factory style pull up reverse lockout and is compatible with factory style shift knobs. Made in the USA, Barton has constructed the most complete shifter you can buy on the market and one that produces little to no increase of NVH.

Please Note: The factory shift boot will need to be modified before installation.

*Only fits 2015-2021 GT Mustangs.

*Shift knob not included.

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

While many people will question its strength, anybody who's driven a modern Mustang with the MT-82 six-speed manual will agree it's one of the smoothest shifting transmissions out there. Now, if you like the MT-82 and want to make it last, the best investment you can make is a good quality shifter.

I already run Barton's Transmission mounted shifter on my 2015 and absolutely love it. When they announced the new Hybrid 3, we had to get our hands on one and do an installation. Today, we're going to tell you about the Hybrid 3 shifter and install it on this 2016 Mustang GT.

Like all Barton shifters, the Hybrid 3 is made right here in the USA of high-quality products. The Hybrid 3 name comes from the fact that the shifter is very flexible. Gives you different options for not only the shift mechanism itself but also for the shift mounting, and even adjustments for the spring settings themselves.

Now, getting to the mount option, there's two ways you can mount this shifter in your 2015-2017 Mustang. It can be mounted on the body or it can be mounted on the transmission itself. There's benefits to both. We'll get to that in a minute. All the hardware is included for both mounting options. Now, as far as the shifter mechanism goes, there's two options there as well, which we're going to cover right now.

In the shifter mechanism itself is another place the Barton Hybrid 3 really shines. Both options are going to give you adjustable springs so you can get the tension exactly where you want it. They're also going to give you a 25% shorter throw, which will be much better for banging gears. The difference here between these main two is going to be not only the style of it but how they function. This style here is going to be a standard pull-up reverse, which is factory on the 2015-2017. If you're not a fan of that style, they also offer the flat stick version shown here, which will be a push-down style as found in the earlier Mustangs. When you order the shifter, you're basically going to choose which version you want, the pull-up or push-down. All the other parts for mounting are going to be included.

Like I mentioned before, the Hybrid 3 has two mounting options. You can do a body mount or you can do a trans mount. The trans mount will be the absolute strongest mount and because you're mounting to the transmission, you will get a little bit of NVH as its just standard with that kind of a mount. If you want to go with the body mount, which is more isolated, that's also included with the Hybrid 3. What you'll do is you'll use that there. This will now connect to the body and what you'll do is remove this screw and this screw here. What that'll do is allow this linkage to move, so you'll have vertical movement, but you can see it also twists.

A lot of concerns with body mounting is that you're getting a lot of deflection when you're driving the car. Well, this design allow it to actually spin a lot freer, will get rid of the deflection, and make the car shift a lot firmer.

Now, if you decide to go with the trans mount, which is the way we're going to install it on this vehicle, you'll need these brackets here. This will actually screw to the side of the shifter and this will bolt to the bottom of the transmission to support, which is going to make it a lot stronger. In this case, the hardware's going to stay in the linkage. There's no reason for the linkage to pivot as it's mounted the transmission will not move separate like it would if it was mounted to the body.

Like I mentioned before, in our case, we're actually going to go with the pull-up style reverse. We want to keep the car looking original inside, but also use our factory Ford shift knob, which we already had installed.

For this installation, you need a lift and a pole jack or a jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 10mm socket, 11mm socket, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 1/4-inch Allen socket or Allen key, swivel, short extension, long extension, 10mm wrench, 13mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 19mm wrench, channel lock pliers, small flat head screwdriver, and a plastic pry bar.

The installation of the Barton Hybrid 3 is going to take place in the interior of the car and also underneath. We're going to start by removing our factory knob, boot, and original lockout. The knob is easy to remove. Get a good grip on it and just turn it counterclockwise. Remove the boot. Take the rubber cup out of the front here. Use a small plastic pry bar and very carefully pry it up.

Then remove the lockout. You want to carefully pry the little tabs here. There's three of them and they'll pop right off. When it pops off, this little ring will most likely go flying. Sometimes it stays in there. A lot of times it falls off. Make sure you do not lose this. You will need it with the Barton to make it work properly.

In addition to the little white ring, there's also a little rubber O-ring on here. We're going to remove that and we're going to grab the tool provided by Barton, which will allow us to remove this roll pin, the spring, and the lockout collar.

The first thing you want to do is get a set of pliers. This tiny hole here, line that up with the pin and you want to squeeze the pin until it's flush. You want to make sure it's flush in the front. If it's not flush, when you use this tool it's just going to spread the pin and make it impossible to remove. With it flush, what you're going to do, slide that down into place of the screw that's included. Make sure, again, you have the slot here sitting on the pin. Push it all the way down. The pin removed, now pull up on this rubber boot. It's only held in place by a zip tie. Put that aside. Now, the last step, remove the plastic lockout, which is the little screw over here on the side. Put that aside, now we can move onto the car.

Now we're going to begin disassembly under the car. The drive shaft and exhaust, they are in the way but you can work around them. They don't have to be removed but you will need some extensions and some swivels. First thing we're going to do is remove the two nuts from the body mount. Now, give it a good tug to get the little retaining clips off and slide the mount off the back of the transmission shift gear.

Next, we have to separate the bottom of the shifter bucket itself. It's held on by these four screws. There's two on this side and two on the other. Okay, now that the screws are out we can separate the bottom. It's held on by a seal. Sometimes you can get it by hand. Other times you may have to get a small screwdriver up in there. Now you can see that black bushing covered with grease. That's the bottom of the factory shifter handle. To get that out, right on top of that bushing are two 10mm screws. Again, you'll need an extension and a swivel to get up in there and remove the screws.

The next bolt for the shift driver is very difficult to get to, so what I'm going to do is actually take off the bolts from the transmission mount and lower it down just a little bit to give me some more room. We should move our pole jack for now. With the motor mounts, the trans is perfectly safe. It's not going to go anywhere, but it gives us enough room to get up in there a little bit easier to get these bolts out. We can't access the bolt for the linkage until we remove this bolt up here that holds the arm to the transmission. This is going to be a 10mm. You need a small wrench to get in there. This is going to be a little bit tight. Give a little tug down on the transmission to get the bolt out. With that disconnected, you can pull the back of the shifter here. Pull this back out of the way.

Moving up top, we're going to remove the stock shifter base and arm. This will come through here. It's a very tight fit, but it will come through if you're careful. This is one of the hardest parts of the install because it's very hard to see and hard to get to as well. There's a bolt on the top of the linkage right up here that holds the linkage on. You've got to get up here. You can actually get a ratchet and socket on it. You have to come up from the back and it is kind of tough. You really can't see it. You sort of have to go by feel. Make sure you push the linkage all the way back so you’re on one of the back gears. It makes it easier to reach it.

We'll have to disassemble the Barton to install, but I want to show you a couple of things that really make the Barton special compared to the factory shifter. The biggest thing, now, is these three rings right here. Here, you can see the stock shifter only has these two rings. This is basically how the shifter moves when it's installed in the car. The Barton uses three and they're much larger. What this is going to do, make this shift not only a lot smoother and a lot firmer, but a lot less deflection on the one too so that clunk and movement you get with the factory shifter is going to go away with the Barton.

Now, remember when I said removing the factory linkage was the hardest part of the removal process? Well, installing the Barton is the hardest part of the install as well. What you have to do is get this up into place on that stud, push it on, and put the retaining bolt in it from the top, get it lined up, and then start tightening it down by hand. Then, go back and tighten it with a wrench. You are not going to be able to see this. This is not an easy spot of the installation. I guarantee it's not going to look anywhere as easy as it does on camera. Take your time. You can get it up in there and get it locked in place.

Now, this is the top of the shifter assembly. What we're going to do is fish this into place, reinstall that 10mm bolt in the front here, and the linkage we just installed will sit in the base here and we'll bolt the cover back on. When you put this in, you sort of want to come back here over the exhaust. It's a little bit tricky to get in here. Then slip it up into the top. Now you're going to reinstall the factory bolt here. This is the one we removed, so we're going to have to wiggle the transmission to get it up into place.

What we're going to do now is install the bottom plate on the shifter bucket itself. What you want to do is get the linkage in the bucket, line up all the rollers where they belong. Get this from the bottom and install with the included hardware. With the shifter assembled, now we can work on the actual mount for it. What we're going to do is remove these two bolts down here. That's where we're going to install the transmission bracket.

We're ready to install the lower mounting bracket now for our shifter. If you notice, there's a larger step on each side here. The larger step is going to go forward for our installation and this will be at the bottom. You could actually flip it around the other way if you're using a Barton drive shaft loop. Since we're not, we're going to install it this way using the supplied hardware. Now, these are the support brackets that go from the block we just installed to the shifter itself. They are labeled. Make sure you grab the correct side because you do have to tighten this bolt down and if you flip them you'll never be able to get to this. We did spray a little bit of synthetic lube on here, make it a little bit easier to get these on.

You want to slide this right up and in. You can't put it back and slip it over because it will not work. I'm going to grab the bolt that's included. All right, now we're going to go back and tighten everything down. Okay, now we're going to tighten up the bolts down here. Now we can lift it back into place.

Now we're going to install the shifter assembly itself into our base. Now, what you're going to first here includes two new springs. Essentially two additional springs. One goes on each side. These are optional. It depends how you feel. Usually, I'll tell you to put them in, try it. If you don't like it, you can always take them out later. The additional springs will give it a much more heavy duty feel. Put one on each side and then one of these little stoppers.

You want to make sure that center shifter hole is not in gear. You want to make sure it is centered. If it is in gear, use a small wrench or whatever, put it here. Kind of pop it until you get it centered. Now we're going to install the shifter assembly itself. When you put the shifter in, make sure this bolt is facing towards the driver side. This is your reverse lockout. That's going to slide up to go into reverse. If you put it in the other way, it will bolt in but it won't go into reverse. I would also suggest putting the hardware in first. It makes it easier than trying to get down in there. It's important you have the shifter straight and also, like I said, the shift assembly is straight, because this is a very exact fit. You may have to play with it a little bit to get it to go in. Or get lucky I got it.

There's an adjustable ring on top of the shifter. You want to make sure it goes into gear smoothly before we tighten everything down, so what you want to do, push the clutch in, slowly take it soft into first and make sure it goes into gear. Feels good. Now, give it a little more force and do the same thing. You can see here, it doesn't want to go into fourth, so we're going to make a small adjustment. Bump that over just a hair. Tighten it back up.

Okay, the shifter is set up properly and everything bolted down. Install the provided seal. Now I'm going to reinstall the original O-ring, and on top of it the plastic spacer. The lower seal installed, now we're going to reinstall the factory seal. Got front and back arrows. You want to follow those. Install the supplied zip tie in the groove to hold it in place. Now, to lift up on the collar, I'm going to put it in reverse and we're going to install our billet collar with our boot. You want to push it down until you hear it click in place like that. Take it out of reverse and reinstall the shift boot. We're going to install the pocket in the front, and we're going to thread our factory shift knob on. Nice and tight. Make sure reverse still works. Go through all the gears, and your installation is finished.

All right, so the install for the Barton shifter, it is involved. I mean, you’re working in a small location. It's definitely going to take some time. You probably figure you want to give yourself, honestly, I would say at least four hours. Probably closer to four or five hours to do the installation, but it's definitely going to be worth it.

Like I said, I have the Barton shifter in my car already. This one feels exactly like I expect it to. It throws nice and short, but not ridiculously short. It still has a nice solid feel to it. It has just a firm feel when you go into gear. It doesn't have a lot of the slop. It's completely gone. As far as NVHs, if we have this trans mounted, which if anything is going to transfer more NVH than doing the body mount, but really there's none. You can feel just the hair of it. If this kind of stuff bothers you, I wouldn't modify your car at all because it's really minor. Again, totally worth it for how well it shifts.

You can keep your elbow pretty much on the console and just flick into the next gear. Instead of holding your hand on the shifter. Seriously, the vibration is so minimal. Most people probably wouldn't even notice a difference. That's one of the things that's nice about the Barton is it does give you that option. If you would rather go with the original style body mount and just make it an upgrade to the original style, you have that option with this shifter. They also give the optional springs and the optional transmission mount, which really gives you a lot of different ways you can use it.

Now for the install, like I said, we did put the additional springs in here. I would recommend them. If you want to take them out, it really isn't that big of a deal to take them back out, but I like the feel of it. It makes the shifter just a little bit firmer but to me I like a positive engagement. I like that feeling and I would absolutely go this way. At least try it first. This thing feels so nice. This could be a factory shifter and people would be absolutely fine with it. It's short, engagements are positive, which is what you want on a car like this.

By using the factory seal and the Barton seal, there's no additional noise. You don't hear anything from the transmission. Again, a lot of that deflection you always feel, that clunk clunk you get from the stock shifter, completely gone with the Barton. I will mention the shifter does sit a little lower than the original one. It's a shorter throw. The handle's a little bit shorter, so it does sit a little bit closer to the console. On my personal car, I have a different shift knob, which is a little bit higher than this one. I actually like the feel of that a little bit better, but this is still usable. You can still shift from the top if that's the way you like to, or if you want to hold it from the side, there's still plenty of room to do that as well.

Unfortunately, it's a little cold out in Pennsylvania today and we're running on the Pirelli's, which are not the greatest tire, especially when it's cold out. We'll try a little more of an aggressive shift up here on the road but can't get too crazy with these conditions. For aggressive shifting, power shifting, whatever, the shifter feels absolutely great. The nice thing with the trans mount is you don't get any kind of that movement. I mean, Barton designs so that movement's not an issue, but the trans mount just makes it that much better. Now, you're attached to the transmission when you make aggressive shifts, it feels nice and solid like it should.

Like I said, it is a little bit of work to install it, but overall the Barton is going to be an excellent choice for your Mustang, so give yourself about four or five hours and you'll be back on the road in no time.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

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