cp-e Motor Mount xFlex 55A Durometer Passenger Side Focus ST 2013-2018/Focus RS 2016-2018

We're starting to make some progress with the modifications to our Focus RS. So far, I've done a MagnaFlow exhaust system, Turbosmart blow-off valve, a COBB tune, and two of the three front motor mounts we've replace with high-quality aftermarket pieces from cp-e. So far we did the rear mount and the driver mount, it's only going to make sense to finish that off by installing the passenger side motor mount on our 2016 Focus RS.

Like our other mounts from cp-e, the xFlex passenger side mount features high-quality construction. It's made of billet aluminum with a 55A durometer bushing which we found to be a perfect compromise between a strong solid bushing, be it livable NVH. That includes billet aluminum brackets and all necessary hardware for installation.

For this installation you need a jack and a small block of wood, 3/8ths ratchet, 18mm sockets, 1/4" Allen key or Allen socket, short extension, 1/2" ratchet, 19mm socket, torque wrench, 19mm wrench and both blue and red Loctite.

Just like the driver side mount, the passenger side mount installation is handled under the hood. It's actually located right here underneath the coolant tank. I'm going to explain the process and Freddy's going to handle the wrenching.

We're going to begin installation by removing the coolant tank to get to the mount. First thing I'm going to do is make sure the cap is tight and then there's a single clip that holds it on, you can use a small screwdriver or your fingers and just pop it off. Yeah, just lift it up and put it out of the way.

Right here you can see the motor mount itself, now before we remove this, we're going to grab a jack and a block of wood and support the engine just so it doesn't move around. Then after that, we'll remove these three nuts here and the two bolts on the side.

Now we're just going to remove our intake cover, just to make it a little bit easier to access the three nuts on the top.

Now we're going to pre-assemble our mount before we install it. We're going to start with a couple drops of red Loctite, put that on each bolt. Yep, we don't want these backing out. Now we're going to assemble the mount, it's really only going to line up one way. Just put it like this, it's going to angle that way there. Then we go through and tighten them down. We're going to put the mount on next and to make sure your orientation is correct, take your original mount and we can compare it now to our cp-e, yeah, that's going to mount like that. At this point, you don't want to tighten this down, just get it assembled. Leave that like that and it's ready to go back on the car.

With our motor mount assembled, we can put it down in the place. You'll line up with the three studs on the engine and see how close the bottom is, it may or may not line up, more than likely you may have to jack the engine either up or down to get it to line up. In our case, ours lines up absolutely perfectly. Now we're going to grab your original hardware, put some blue Loctite on and bolt it down.

With the bolts in the frame tightened up, now we can install the nuts that hold the mount to the engine. With everything tighten down, now we're going to go back and torque everything to spec. The two bolts going into the frame are 66 ft lb, the three nuts, 60.

With everything else torqued, now we're going to torque the main bolt that holds the motor mount together, the 75 ft lb. With everything torqued down, the last step, we're going to install your coolant tank and your installation's finished.

Okay, now that we have all three mounts installed, we did pick up a little more NVH. I mean, you can definitely tell again. A majority of it though is going to be off idle. You're getting it from idle to about 1500, as soon as you get over that, it completely goes away. From your 2000 and up, where your normal driving's going to be, there really is no difference. You can feel it a little bit through the wheel, it is a little firmer and it's something you're going to deal with. The factory rubber mounts are so soft, yeah, they're comfortable as far as driving goes but you also are losing out on the performance aspect because you are losing power and causing hot because of the softness is going to make it a lot looser and that's the reason you're having a problem.

Firming up the bushings, yeah, the little tradeoff is a little bit more NVH. For me, it's probably livable, especially with just the rear mount. Adding all three, which is definitely going to be the best scenario, you do add a little bit more overall but I still don't think it doesn't make the driving experience any worse, doesn't make the car feel any worse, it still feels perfectly fine.

Again, once you're rolling highway speeds, cruising in fifth or sixth gear, yeah, nothing, no problems at all. Now we're at highway speeds, honestly I can't tell a difference, it feels like the car did stock. No additional vibration, nothing through the shifter, nothing through the steering wheel, it's just as smooth as it was before. The tradeoff for getting rid of the wheel hop and making the engine much more secure, much more consistent, not having it moving around so much is going to just a little bit of vibration right off of idle. The car pulls dead straight with these three mounts on, no issues there at all. It's not pulling to the side, if anything it pulls hard and pulls straight.

Now with the passenger side mount installed we have all three cp-e mounts install on our RS and it feels great. Our wheel hop is gone, the engine feels nice and firm and best of all, the NVH is very, very small, definitely worth the tradeoff. As far as the installation goes, this is the easiest by far, should take you less than an hour, be back on the road in no time.