Ford Performance Knuckle To Toe Link Bearing Assembly 2015-2020
Ford Performance Knuckle To Toe Link Bearing Assembly 2015-2019 is rated out of 5 by 4.
- Delrin Lined Spherical Bearing
- Minimal Impact To Ride Quality
- Improves Handling
- Includes 2 Bearings
You save 32%
Intermediate skill is required for this installation.
Rated 3 out of 5 by Mikey likes it from An Upgrade (maybe)... As upgrades go, this is one that most of us can do without. After viewing the installation video and making sure I had the proper Ball Joint Press, I decided to give it a try. Caution: Do not try this at home. No, just kidding but unless you are prepared to remove the hubs you will not get the new bearings back in the hub casting. I spent hours under the car trying to press the bearing in but never succeeded. It would not go in straight. I finally removed the hubs from the car and using my 20 ton shop press succeeded (very easily I might add) in both removing and pressing in the new bearings. These bearings are an improvement and are on par with the others in the hubs. But this is a very difficult installation.
Date published: 2015-07-27
Rated 5 out of 5 by Old Man 68 from Ford Racing Knuckle to toe link bearings I installed a steeda stop the hop pack on my 2016 mustang GT with has the performance package on it and I still had wheel hop. The oem rubber bushing still let the car wheel hop, I installed the new Ford Racing toe link bushing and that did the trick, no more wheel hop. I used a C frame ball joint press and a 36 m.m socket to remove and install the new bearing. Ford tell you to use a 1 and a 1/4 socket which will only press on the inter rubber on the oem bearing and you will get no were. Yes I installed these under the car on jack stands. thanks CJ Pony for the great price and fast delivery . Glenn W. Jones
Date published: 2016-03-07
Rated 4 out of 5 by wildcatgoal from Let's Talk Installation The Ford Performance instructions for installing this bearing kit are actually pretty good, but they don't do a good enough job of telling you which direction to insert the bearing and which side of the bearing to push in first. You'll notice in the photos there is a line around the circumference of the bearing shell closest to a beveled edge. There is also a beveled edge where the bearing goes facing toward the front of the car. I inserted the bearing into the beveled edge side of the race starting with the beveled edge of the bearing itself. So beveled edge to beveled edge. I hope that was the right approach, and it worked for me. It was just too hard to tell what Ford wanted you to do in the instructions. Whoever writes car parts instructions is clearly a seasoned mechanic, not a garage installer that would appreciate more detail. Anyway, using a rented ball joint press and after a lot of swearing at said ball joint press, I pressed out the old bushings and pressed in the new bearings. I had to take out the ball joint press assembly a couple times to make sure I ultimately seated the bearing "centered" in the race. You'll notice, which is kind of funky if you compare these bearings to the OEM bushing, that the bearing is wider than the OEM bushing. Therefore, there will be "bearing" sticking out on both sides of the mounting location. You need to make sure you have the same amount sticking out on both sides, which is why I had to take off the ball joint press to see if I was nice and centered, and then re-assemble it to press in a little more just to get it centered right. In the ideal world, the bearing would be designed to "bottom out" where it needs to be, but... life is unfair. The instructions state this will take 4 hours. It took me 2 and a large portion of that was figuring out how I would situate the stupid universal ball joint press. The instructions also suggest using a 1 1/4" socket to press out the bushing and press in the bearing. The 1 1/4" sock I have was not big enough, so I used my 1 3/8" socket. Use whatever does not exceed the OEM bushing circumference but rests on the metal, not the rubber. It will work also for this replacement bearing to press in. You will drop the stupid ball joint press and all the parts on the floor a zillion times, but eventually you'll get the hang of it and you'll accomplish the second bearing in what will feel like seconds. Just be sure to not put pressure on anything but the outside. The instructions also want you to use red Loctite on the bearing mating surface. I've never heard of using red Loctite on a bearing mating surface, but I figured at least it'd act as a sort of lubricant. I put the red Loctite in that recessed line on the bearing primarily and then let it seep a little around that area. The instructions weren't clear if I should coat the bearing mating surface or not, so I did it the way I did it. That seemed to work great. If anyone wants to take this bearing out one day... well, red Loctite. Getting the toe arm over the bearing in reassembly was a pain. I actually bent VERY LITTLE the toe arm bracket wider just to get it over the bearing, then used the bolt to tighten it all back down and torqued as specified. No issues expected (the arm is steel, not aluminum, so it won't "crack" with just a little "tolerance enhancing". As for performance... I haven't driven the car yet but I wanted to post these install thoughts.
Date published: 2016-10-03
Rated 5 out of 5 by Victor L from Excellent upgrade however very difficult install I bought these to fix with an issue on my wife's Ecoboost. Under acceleration/deceleration the rear end would fishtail rather badly, it also felt like the rear end was on casters while just driving around. This was caused by the rubber bushings on the toe arm to knuckle going bad and had a lot of play in them. Not going to lie this install was very tedious and time consuming. It can be done on jack stands, however you better have a lot of upper body strength otherwise this install will be near impossible without a lift. And get a friend to help you, the press you need to put in place gets very heavy over the course of the install Overall a worthwhile upgrade for any S550 Mustang. These are metal barrings replacing rubber so the difference was very noticeable. It took about 3 hours to get it all done, a Master Ball Joint press from the auto parts store and a very large socked i had to buy because the press did not have the right size to press the bushing out.
Date published: 2019-04-11
Do these bearings increase NVH?
Date published: 2018-05-21
This will fit a Performance Pack car but does the PP already come with this part installed?
No, it is part of Ford Performance's Assembled Handling Package.
Date published: 2017-10-06
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