Ford Performance Lowering Spring Street 1" Set Mustang V6 2015-2017/ EcoBoost/GT 2015-2024

For years, lowering springs and exhaust have been the two most popular modifications Mustang owners have made. Owners of the 2015 and up Mustangs are no different. That's why we've done a lot of exhaust videos and a lot of spring videos to give you a lot of different options. The Ford racing street springs in front of me are one of the more popular lowering springs because they drop the car around an inch. It gives you a nice stance. The aggressive rake provides really good ride quality. They're also very easy to align. The last time we installed these, we put them in a GT convertible, which is the heaviest Mustang available. A lot of you have asked how they would fit the V6 and the EcoBoost, so today we're going to install these on this 2015 V6 fastback.

These Ford racing street lowering springs from Ford Performance will be direct replacements for the factory springs on all 2015 through 2017 VG, GT's, and EcoBoost Mustang's. They are progressive rate springs, will add a nice ride quality, but also increase performance and get rid of a lot of the body roll pommel with these cars. The kits can include both front and rear springs as well as new bump stops, and work with stock, or aftermarket shocks and struts. For this installation you'll need a lift and a pole jack or a jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 13-millimeter socket, 14- millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 1/2-inch impact or ratchet, 18- millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, 24-millimeter socket, short extension, torque wrench, 17-millimeter wrench, panel removal tool, hammer, and a spring compressor.

To begin the installation we'll be getting the car off the ground and removing the wheels. We're going to go under the hood using the 3 nuts and bolts here for the strut. We're going to remove 2 of them. Leave the third one attached, but leave it loose. Now you can move on to the wheel well. You'll start down here by separating the strut from the sway bar. Put a wrench on the back here and remove the nut from the front. With the sway bar disconnected, now we'll move the ABS line. It's held on by plastic clips. A small screwdriver or panel removal tool, get up in there and pop those off. To get the strut out we have to remove the 2 strut bolts from the spindle, but to get to the back here we got to remove the brake caliper first to give us more room, possibly even take off the rotor depending how much space we need.

Put the caliper safely out of the way. Okay, now to separate the spindle from the strut we have to remove these nuts. The bolts are spline so they won't turn. What you want to do, just loosen them at the end for now. I'll show you why in a second. Like I mentioned before, the bolts are spline. To get them out, what you'll want to do is get the nut on the end so we can actually hit the nut with a hammer and not mushroom the end of the bolt. Okay now we can remove the nuts and remove the bolts. All right to get the strut off just grab it, lift it up. Get the nut that we left loose up top here, thread that off and remove the assembly.

Once the strut assembly is out of the car we have to remove the spring from the strut. To do that you got to compress the spring to remove the nut up top. Now we can remove the strut mount and the nut. Here's a quick comparison. Here's our Ford performance spring versus our stock spring. Obviously you can see it is much lower, but retains the same shape. Now we're going to compress our Ford performance spring. You want to make sure you line the spring up properly. There's a seat in the bottom here you'll want to make sure it sits in. With the nut installed, now we can back off our compressor. Now it's ready to go back in the car. You'll want to make sure you've got the one stud facing out, and we're going to put our strut back up into place.

Just loosely put the nuts on by hand. We can reconnect the spindle to our strut. Just get those started, we can tighten the nut, it'll pull the spline all the way through. Well once the nuts are tight you'll want to torque them to 184- foot-pound. Now we put our rotor back on and put our caliper back on. Make sure, when you go to put the caliper back on, make sure your sway bar end length here is on top of the hose. If it's underneath the hose, you're going to have to remove the caliper to get it back up into place so it'll go back in the strut. Now we can reinstall the sway bar. Once these are tight, caliper bracket bolts get torqued to 85-foot-pound. I'm going to go 85 on that and then 85 up here as well. The sway bar nut gets the same torque spec.

Now we can reconnect the ABS clips. Last up on this side to tighten these 3 nuts to 46-foot-pound. Okay we're going to repeat the process on the other side. Now we can move on to the rears. To remove the rear spring we have to lower the cradle so before we can do that, you got to unbolt the brake line here and the shock mount so everything can drop down. There's 2 bolts per side that hold the cradle to the body. There's a front one here and there's another one in the back. Before we can release this though, we have to release these 2 small bolts so the whole bracket will come down. We're going to put the pole jack into place here and support the cradle so we can lower it down. Make sure you do this before you touch these 2 bolts, you don't want it falling. We can lower down the jack to lower the cradle.

You’ll see the tension release on the spring as well. With the tension off, you probably want to pull down on the cradle a little bit, cock the spring outward, and remove it. Now put the factory isolator back on top of our new spring and we can put it up into place. There is a pocket in the lower control arm for the spring. You want to make sure it is in the pocket and touching the end like it's supposed to be. There we go. Again, make sure everything is seated, we'll jack it into place. Start with the front bolt. Just get this hand tight for now. The same with the rear. We're going to put the 2 wheel alignment bolts in next. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129- foot-pound. Before you put the shock back into place we've got to swap out the bump stop.

Remove the mount, pull the sleeve off. Simply push the old one out. Take our new, shorter bump stop. Usually a screwdriver works pretty well here. Just line it up and push it up into place. With everything tight, now we can safely remove our pole jack and keep it handy for the other side. Now put the shock back into place. Repeat the process on the other side and your installation is finished. The Ford performance street springs look great on our V6 Mustang. It doesn't lower it quite as much as it did the GT Convertible, but there is a weight difference so it's not going to be quite as low.

Overall though, it gives us a nice drop. Might settle a little bit more once we drive it. The installation's pretty straightforward, will take you around 2 hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.