Hurst Short Throw Shifter Indy With Shift Knob Black Mustang V6 2015-2017/ EcoBoost/GT 2015-2023



  • CNC Machined Billet
  • Gloss Black Finish
  • 6 Speed Shift Pattern
  • Reduces Shifter Throw
MSRP $269.00
You save 10%

Hurst Short Throw Indy Shifter with Black Shift Knob for 2015, 2016, and 2017 V6 Mustangs; 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, and 2023 EcoBoost and GT Mustangs with a Manual Transmission.

Are you looking for a smoother shifting experience in your V6, EcoBoost or GT Mustang? CJ Pony Parts has you covered with this new premium Hurst (3916036) Short Throw Indy Shifter with Black Shift Knob, now available to purchase!

Features and Benefits:
- 18% Shift Throw Reduction
- Accommodates Factory Reverse Lockout
- Gloss Black Finish Shift Knob with Hurst Logo and 6-Speed Shift Pattern
- CNC Machined Billet Steel Parts
- Made in the U.S.A.
- Includes Indy Stick, Lockout Sleeve, Rear Bushing and Shift Knob
- Also includes grease packet and tube of thread lock for secure install

If you're looking for smoother shifting in your 2015-2023 Mustang, than this Indy Shifter from Hurst is right up your alley! Hurst's Indy Shifter provides noticeable throw reduction as well as a firmer, smoother feel while shifting.

Hurst designed this assembly to retain the factory reverse lockout collar and original function and includes everything you need to install it. You'll love the feel of the shorter shifter and the upgraded black shift knob included. Upgrade your pony and order this Indy Shifter from CJ's today!

- Fits 2015-2017 V6 Mustangs
- Fits 2015-2023 EcoBoost Mustangs
- Fits 2015-2023 GT Mustangs

Please Note: This short shifter does not fit Shelby GT350 or GT350R models.

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

Related Categories: Mustang Parts, Mustang Interior, Mustang Shift Knobs, Mustang Transmission, Mustang Shifters

Installation Difficulty


Novice skill is required for this installation.

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

Bill: I'm here with Jeremy from Hurst Performance Products. We've talked before about common modifications people make to their Mustangs; exhaust, cold-air kits, stuff like that. In a manual transmission Mustang, one of the first things people change is the shifter. The factory shifter leaves a lot to be desired. Now, Hurst has been making shifters pretty much since the beginning of manual transmissions, and have several offerings for the S-550 Mustang. So we're gonna install one today. Tell us about what you brought here and what we're putting on this 2016 Mustang.

Jeremy: Thanks, This is our Indie shifter for the 2015 and up Mustang. It fits the EcoBoost, the V6, as well as the GT. Kind of covers the whole family. 18 percent reduction in throw, so you got a little bit of a shorter shift. More positive, made out of billet aluminum, uses the factory OEM reverse lock-out, got a nice knob.

Bill: To give you that factory look when it's installed, but the classic Hurst shift ball as well.

Jeremy: Exactly. Three parts, easy install.

Bill: Cool, let's get started.

Jeremy: Sounds good.

Bill: For this installation, a lift or a jack and jack stands, 1/4 inch ratchet, 7-millimeter socket and extension, 3/8 ratchet, 10-millimeter socket, 2-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, at least a 10 inch extension, 10- millimeter wrench, panel removal tool, C-clamp, small set of vice grips, hammer, punch, 5/64" Allen key, and a T-20 Torx bit.

The first part of the installation will take place in the car. Jeremy's gonna walk you through how to take the factory console part and the factory shift removal and then we'll move underneath.

Jeremy: Okay, so here we are in the driver's compartment of our 2016 Mustang. First thing we're gonna do is remove the OEM shift knob. It comes off pretty easy. Just go counter- clockwise.

Okay, now we're gonna get into the center console removal. You've got a panel here on the passenger's side. Just put your fingers underneath here. It pops right off pretty easy. Repeat the same step on the driver's side. Okay, after you get the panel off the driver's side and the passenger's side, you'll find two 7 millimeter bolts underneath. Go ahead and take those off.

Okay, we're gonna start by taking the rear of the console apart. You want a plastic interior pry bar. Just go ahead and slide it underneath the back here, and we're gonna work our way forward.

Now we got the console off, we've got a little electrical plug down here for the lights. Just start by removing that. After that, you'll have to pull up on the emergency brake. Maybe put the car in second gear and make it a little bit easier to move. While you got the console up, you need to take the shift boot off. There's three little clips in here that you're gonna have to remove. Small screwdriver will be enough to get those off. Once you got the clips off the shifter boot, you can go ahead and remove the console.

Now that we're this far, we've got a little rubber O-ring here in the threads. Take that off, but make sure you put it some place safe, 'cause you're gonna need that later. Now right down here's a pin. You can use a 4-millimeter punch and hammer to get it out. Since I'm here at CJ's, Bill gave me a really cool tip to get it out a little bit easier. We're gonna push this spring down, lock a set of vice grips on it. Take a socket and a C-clamp, get it pretty straight on that pin. What you're gonna do is just slowly push that pin out through the OEM shifter shaft.

Okay, so since we've got it most of the way out with our little C-clamp trick, you'll take the punch, tap it out just the rest of the way. Okay, be careful releasing that spring, because it can shoot up on you. Take that off. Just slide down the rubber shift boot. And on this side of the shifter, there's a T-20 Torx bit. Go ahead and remove that. Slide off this coupler, and now we're gonna go underneath the vehicle.

Bill: Now we're underneath the car. We removed the exhaust already. It is optional, you don't have to, just gives us more room to work and more room for you to see what we're actually doing. The next thing we're gonna do now is support the transmission. So you're gonna move this and actually lower it down for more access.

Jeremy: We've got four 18-millimeter bolts, two here, two here that we're gonna go ahead and remove. And now, we're gonna remove the three 15-millimeter bolts up here. Okay, so now we're getting ready to take the drive shaft loose of the transmission. What Bill's gonna do is make a mark between the transmission flange and this damper, to make sure that when we get it back on, it's all gonna go in the right spot.

Once that's done, we're gonna start by removing the three 18-millimeter bolts around the drive shaft. Okay, while you're doing this, you want to make sure the car is in neutral so you can spin and get to the different bolts. You will have to have somebody hold the drive shaft.

Okay. Move back here to the Carrier Bearing, go ahead and remove the 13-millimeter bolts. Now, you want to have somebody here to help you because the drive shaft is gonna come down. You can support with a stand, however you want to do it. Okay. Now we've got all that out of the way. We've got two 10-millimeter nuts up here. You'll need a long extension.

Okay, now that we've got the nuts off, reach up here and grab the back of the shifter. There'll be a little clip up there. Just go ahead and pull it off. Okay, now we got to the point where we've got to take off the shift arm bolt. You want a 10-millimeter, probably a gear wrench. Slide up in there. There's not a whole lot of room. Go ahead and take that out.

Okay, now that we've got the arm bolt off, we can leave the shifter hanging here. There's a shift linkage bolt up on top, right here. It takes a 13-millimeter. Go ahead and take that out. Now, it's a long bolt, but it's only got a couple threads on it. Now that that bolt is out, go ahead and remove the shifter.

Okay, now that we've got the shift linkage bolt out, like I was saying, it's a long bolt with only a few threads, so you just have to turn it a few times, pull it the rest of the way out. Now that we've got this out, we're gonna go to the table, start the shifter disassembly.

Okay, now that we've got the shifter out of the car, we're gonna remove this bracket, set that aside. We're gonna go ahead and pop this off, this little collar right here. Then, we're going to tackle the underneath, remove these four bolts with a 10- millimeter socket.

Okay, now you remove the bottom cover. You've got this rubber gasket here. Just be careful of that. We're gonna reuse it. Make sure it doesn't tear. It's kind of a small gasket. We're gonna then take the shift arm off of the shifter itself, and now we're gonna take off these two 10-millimeter bolts.

Okay, once you've got the bolts out, you can remove this cover, and the shifter pops right out. Now that we've got the old shifter out, we're gonna pop off the end black small pivot cup. Pop that right off, and then followed by the larger white one. Before putting these items on the new shifter, we're gonna go ahead and put a liberal amount of grease in there. And reinstall in reverse order. And then back onto the small pivot cup.

Okay, now that we've got the Hurst shifter all put together, we're gonna slide it into the housing. Make sure that on the shifter itself, you've got a threaded hole, make sure that's gonna be on the driver's side of the vehicle. Keep in mind, if you're doing this, it's gonna be upside down. So you want that threaded hole facing towards you. And then reinstall the retainer plate. And reinstall your 10-millimeter bolts.

Now we're going to put our linkage back in. Put a little bit of grease on here. Also put it in here as well. Line this up. It should snap onto there. You want to make sure you got your bushings in the correct order. Okay, that is all together. Get your rubber gasket back in place, and reinstall the cover. Reinstall the boot over this little ledge right here.

Now we're gonna move onto the rear support bracket. We're gonna get rid of this rubber piece. He's a little bit spongy feeling from the factory. We're gonna replace it with a polyurethane bushing. It is easier to put the polyurethane bushing on first, and then put the bracket on around it. And there we go. Now let's reinstall.

Okay, now we're gonna reinstall the shifter. Go up through here. This might take you a couple people, just to help balance everything. Now we're gonna reinstall the shift arm bolt. Now we're gonna put the shifter back up into place. It is gonna be a little more difficult because we got the polyurethane bushing there. It's a little bit wider, but we're gonna try to get it up there and work on it. Get these together and get it bolted right in. Once you've got the shifter back in place, go ahead and reinstall the 10-millimeter nuts. Okay, get that one nice and snug. Go ahead and reinstall your carrier bearing bolts. Go ahead and reinstall the drive shaft bolts. Now we're at the point where we're gonna reinstall our tranny brace with our 13-millimeter bolts. Okay, and reinstall the transmission crossmember bolts. With that installed, you can remove your tranny brace, and we'll lower the car back down.

Now we're back in the vehicle, ready for reassembly. We're gonna take out the hex screw that we took out of the original lock-out collar. Go ahead, replace it with the Hurst lock-out collar and thread in the bolt. Reinstall the factory spring. Again, we can use a set of vice grips to keep the spring down. Okay, reinstall the set screws and let your spring back up. Reinstall your O-ring. Go ahead and reinstall your boot. We need to wiggle the bottom around a little just to get it around the shifter housing. And you're good to go.

Okay, before we put the center console in, we're actually gonna take off the housing for the shift boot, just to make it a little bit easier on install. It's five clips here, you just press them together. It should pop right off. We're gonna reinstall the center console. Be sure to remember to hook up your lights, your little electrical outlet. And snap everything back into place. Okay, go ahead and reinstall the 7-millimeter bolts for the passenger's side, and then on the driver's side. Go ahead and reinstall the plastic trim shields. Okay, now we're gonna reinstall our shifter boot. There's gonna be three little indentations here. We want to match it up with the three set screws down on the shifter. Okay, now that's in place, we're gonna install our set screws. Now we're gonna reinstall the shift boot back into the center console.

Okay, now we're gonna get ready to put on the shift knob. We're gonna run a couple rows of Teflon tape around the bottom of the threads. Go ahead and put Loctite around the top of the threads. We've got the vehicle in reverse now, so we know where the collar is in conjunction to the ball. You want to screw the ball down till it just touches the collar, back off about half of a turn. Leave the car set for about 12 hours before the Loctite is permanently locked, and you're ready to go.

Bill: So Jeremy, the Hurst shifter feels nice, and that classic ball looks right at home in the Mustang as well.

Jeremy: It's hard to beat. In a pony car like this, between that and Hurst, it's synonymous.

Bill: And the installation on this, it is gonna be a little bit time-consuming. You don't necessarily have to remove the drive shaft and exhaust. You can work around it if you want to make it a little bit easier. We did it to make it easier to see and it might go a little faster as well. We figure about three hours, you'll be back on the road in no time.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

Only registered users can ask/answer questions. Please sign in or create an account.
Write Your Own Review
Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account