Mustang Dynacorn Door Skin (1967-1968) Installation Instructions
1967-1968 Mustang Dynacorn Door Skin
The Door Skin from Dynacorn will fit all 1967-1968 Mustangs.
Does the door skin on your 1967-1968 Mustang have plenty of dings, dents and rust that signify its advancing years? If so, fix these surface blemishes with a new Door Skin from Dynacorn. This saves you from having to replace an otherwise solid door panel and only replace the outer shell, where the damage is. Order your new Dynacorn Door Skin for your 1967-1968 Mustang today!
- Mig Welder or Panel Adhesive
- Cutoff Wheel
- Drill & 1/4 inch Bit
- Pneumatic Metal Hole Puncher
- Air Compressor
- Body Hammer & Dolly Set
- Shot Bag
- Weld-Thru Primer
- Small Pry Bar or Flat Head Screw Driver
- Measuring Tape
- Difficult Project
1. The passenger door on this 1967 Mustang coupe had some extensive brows and body filler. It will be a cleaner repair to replace the entire skin with a new Mustang Dynacorn Door Skin.
2. First, take a measurement of the distance between the door shell and the original door skin, starting at the top front of the door where the Mustang vent window frame sits. Record this number, as you will need to make sure the new skin is the same distance.
3. The edge of the door skin is wrapped around the Mustang door shell. The door skin is removed by grinding down the entire edge with a metal grinder. Grind until you can see a thin crack starting to show, which means you've now ground completely through the edge of the door skin.
4. Take a small pry bar or flat head screw driver to pry up the Mustang door skin.
5. There will also be several spot welds on the tabs inside the gap for the vent window where you measured earlier. Grind these away or drill them out with a 1/4 inch drill bit or spot weld cutter bit. Take care to avoid going through the bottom tab; this is part of the door shell. Look for any other spot welds or tack welds that might be holding the door skin on; these usually are near the top of the door. Grind or drill these welds out. The old door skin is then separated from the door shell.
6. The flange of the door skin that is wrapped around the door shell will still be attached to the door shell by spot welds. Grind these out and the last connection points for the door skin will be completely broken away from the door shell.
7. Now would be an ideal time to restore the inside of the door panel. The inside of my door was rusty on the surface. Following a lot of sanding and prep work, the inside of the door received several coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. This would also be a good time to replace the rubber bumper at the bottom of the door.
8. A strip of cork was laid across the door brace and fastened with the original staples that held the original felt-like insulator in place. The cork was then wrapped with duct tape to protect it and further secure it to the brace. The door latch assembly and Mustang window regulator were also installed at this time. The window tracks can also be installed. Clean them well and then re-grease with white lithium grease.
9. Lay the new skin on the door to do a test fit. This Dynacorn skin fit very nicely when test fitting.
10. You now need to decide how to affix the door skin to the door. There are numerous options: a) Use door skin/panel adhesive. This is a weld-free option, however the adhesive is expensive and may require an even more expensive applicator gun. With that being said, adhesive is how door skins are attached to modern cars. b) You can drill 1/4 inch holes or punch holes (with a pneumatic punch) in the flange of the door skin that wraps around the door shell, and plug weld it to the door. This method can be difficult in some parts of the door, as the flange does not tend to be even all the way around; some areas are wider and some areas are more narrow. Thus, when the flange gets folded over the door shell, the entire hole may not fold all the way over, leaving a point on the edge of the door that you'll have to deal with. c) If you are lucky enough to have a spot welder, you could spot weld the skin just like it came from the factory, or d) Or you can tack weld the skin flange to the door shell. This is the route employed for this door. Once the welds are ground down and the door is seam sealed, the welds are concealed. Since I am welding the door, I sprayed Mustang weld thru primer around the edge of the door.
11. The inside of the door skin was sprayed with Mustang Eastwood rubberized undercoating for vibration and sound dampening. A similar procedure was done at the factory as well.
12. After the undercoating is dry, set the Mustang door skin back on the door and turn the door upside down. The flange of the skin now needs to be pounded down against the door shell. Hold a shotbag or a section of 2x4 that is several feet long against the door skin on the outside of the door, directly underneath where you will be pounding the door skin flange. Avoid using small metal dollies or the palm of your hand as a dolly, as these can work ripples, indents, and low spots into the door skin on the outside of the door. Using a door skin hammer, begin pounding the flange of the skin down against the door shell, moving down the edge of the door at a uniform pace. Only hammer the flange a fourth to a third of the way down on the first run, then come back and hammer it some more, working down the edge of the door. After the third or fourth run, you will be hammering the flange of the skin down tight against the door shell. The picture does not show my other hand holding the shotbag, as it was holding the camera. However, if I were really pounding the hammer in that picture, my other hand would be holding a shotbag dolly directly underneath where I was hammering. I devised a homemade shotbag by taking a microphone bag, filling it with sand, and putting duct tape over the zipper to prevent the sand from leaking out.
13. This is the edge of the door skin as it starts to take form. Now would be a good time to hang the door on the car to see how the skin is going to line up with the quarter panel and Mustang fender.
14. The flange is pounded flat and a tack weld is made about every 6-8 inches.
15. The door is now ready to be mounted on the car to see final fit and the Mustang Dynacorn Door Skin installation is complete. Be sure to check the fit of the door handle and lock cylinder in the door skin. It is also a good idea to put seam sealer on the door skin and door shell seam.