ReadyLIFT Lift Kit 7" With SST3000 Shocks 4WD F-150 2015-2020

ReadyLIFT:
44-2575-K

Highlights

  • Retains OEM Steering Quality
  • Retain OEM Ball Joints
  • Bolt-On Installation
  • Made In The USA
MSRP $1,969.96
$1,969.95
You save $0.01

ReadyLIFT 7" Lift Kit with SST3000 Shocks for all 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020 4WD F-150s.

This ReadyLIFT 44-2575-K 7” Lift Kit with SST3000 Shocks is the perfect lift kit for your 2015-2020 4WD F-150 Pick-up. ReadyLIFT’s comprehensive lift kit features the absolute best design and components available to give you a durable end product that will give you the maximum lift while maintaining the factory ride, suspension and steering geometry that makes your F-150 the perfect truck for you.

Manufactured and designed in the USA, this 7" Lift Kit includes SST3000 Rear Shocks to give you the rugged off-road strength while maintaining the factory ride on the street. The Complete kit features precision designed laser cut and CNC formed subframe assemblies that directly bolt-on. Heavy-duty cast nodular iron steering knuckles, patent pending rack and pinion steering drop correction system and an integrated differential drop bracket system to ensure correct CV axle angles and maximum performance in 4WD mode. First offset steel strut extensions (also patent pending) provide the maximum 7" of front lift while 5” tall OEM-style rear blocks provide a quality rear lift that doesn't sacrifice your ride. When your installation is complete you’ll be looking at a rear lift 4". This kit even includes a Patent Pending steering extension to keep your steering performance exactly the same.

This system also includes a patent-pending Rack Correction System (RCS) steering extension design that works with the relocated steering rack to retain the stock steering geometry. Unlike other kits on the market today, this kit requires no cutting or replacing the tie rod ends to avoid replacement problems down the road. By dropping the steering rack the truck retains full OEM alignment specs, features a stock vehicle turning radius and retains the stock track width as well. This system even utilizes factory style cam plates and can be aligned to within factory specifications.

Features and Benefits:
- CNC formed steel sub-frame assemblies
- OEM style 5.0" tall rear block provides 4.0" of rear lift
- Patent Pending steering extension
- Retains factory steering quality
- Special Black Plascoat performance polymer alloy finish
- Exclusive differential drop bracket system
- Correct CV angles
- Extreme duty cast iron steering knuckles designed
- Retain OEM ball joint
- Retains suspension geometry
- Fabricated heavy duty steel 7.0" lift strut extensions
- Retains your factory front struts
- Patent Pending rack and pinion steering drop system
- Includes SST3000 Rear Shocks
- Does not increase front track width
- Allows for use of OEM wheels
- Made in the USA
- Bolt-on installation (takes roughly 6-10 hours)

Kit Includes:
- 7” lift strut extensions
- 4" rear lift blocks
- Sub-frame assembly
- Heavy-duty one piece cross members for rack and pinion steering drop
- RCS steering extension
- Support assembly,
- Extended length steering knuckles
- Heavy-duty front differential skid plate
- OEM Style Rear Lift Block
- U-bolt kit
- All necessary hardware

Wheel and Tire Specifications:
- Max Tire: Up to 37 x 12.50 with minor trimming and proper wheel offset (+25mm on 9" wide)
- Max Tire with no Rubbing - 35 x 12.50
- Wheel Width: Stock Wheels Ok or 10" wide +12mm, 9.5" wide +6mm to +19mm, 9" wide 0mm to +25mm

Please Note: Tire manufactures have variances that may cause interference. It is up to the end user to verify tire clearance.

*There are many different variations of manufacturer aftermarket tire and wheel combinations in both width, actual diameter, tread pattern, etc. It is up to the installer to determine wheel and tire fitment on the vehicle and guarantee that there is no rubbing of the tire on any components, both inside, and outside surfaces. The above guide is for reference only.

Order this ReadyLIFT 44-2575-K 7" Lift Kit with SST3000 Shocks for your 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 or 2020 4WD F-150 today from CJ Pony Parts.

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

Today we’re installing this ReadyLIFT seven inch lift kit with a custom powder-coat to match our truck.

This ReadyLIFT lift kit comes with everything you need to give your F-150 a seven-inch lift all the way around, and it's gonna lift it with the use of spacers, cross members, heavy-duty steering knuckles and a steering extension to maintain the factory rod quality. It also comes with a set of SST3000 rear shocks, 'cause the factory ones are way too short, so today we're install it on our 2018 F-150.

For this installation, you're gonna need quite a bit of tools. You're gonna need some basic hand tools and some cutting tools, as well.

Before we get started with any work, we're gonna get a measurement at all four corners of our factory ride height, just so we know what we're starting with. Looks like we're at 38-1/4 up front, and 41-1/8 in the rear. After you get your measurements, make sure that your wheels are straight and the steering wheel's locked. Then you can disconnect the battery.

Okay, we have the truck up in the air. We took all four wheels off. Now we're gonna remove both splash guards. Disconnect the ABS and brake line brackets from the knuckle and the frame. Disconnect the vacuum line on the four-wheel drive actuator. Locate the ABS wire connector in the engine compartment and unplug it. Pull on the red security tab to unlock it, and then disconnect it. Remove the ABS wire from all of its clips. Remove the tie rod. Remove both 21 millimeter bolts holding on the brake caliper. Pull off the brake rotor. Remove the three eight millimeter bolts holding on the dust shield. Remove the axle nut cover. Remove the 12 millimeter spindle nut. Grab an 18 millimeter wrench and an eight millimeter socket to loosen the nut on the upper control line.

Our truck is so new that this ball joint isn't really set into the knuckle, but if your truck was older, you would have to hit right here with a sledgehammer to separate the two. Because this truck has practically no mileage, it's just separating.

Pull the steering knuckle towards the outside of the truck and remove the drive shaft. If your truck's a little bit older, you might need to hammer this out. Remove the three eight millimeter bolts holding on the vacuum actuator. Once you remove all three bolts, you can remove the actuator.

With the vacuum actuator out of the way, we're gonna remove the four 18 millimeter bolts holding the hub to the knuckle. Pull the hub off and set it aside. Remove the 21 millimeter nut on the lower ball joint and lower the knuckle. Remove the 18 millimeter nut on the bottom of the sway bar end link. Next, remove both of the nuts on the bottom of the strut. They're a bit difficult to see, but there's three 18 millimeter nuts on top of the strut that you have to remove, and then you can remove the entire strut. We’re going to remove both CV axles now. The strut can now be removed. We're gonna use a pry bar to help us get it out.

Now we're gonna do everything that we just did on the passenger's side. The lower control arm can now be removed. You're gonna need a 27 and 21 millimeter socket. With the lower control arms out of the way, we're gonna remove this rear cross member with a 15 millimeter wrench and 18 socket. We're gonna disconnect the drive shaft from the differential, but before we do it, we're gonna mark it just so we know how to reinstall it later. When we go to install this, we'll just line it up with this line and it'll make it a lot easier. To make it easier to remove the bolts on the front of the drive shaft, I'm gonna lock it in place by putting a wrench on the bolts on the rear part of the drive shaft. Then when I go to loosen the bolt, the drive shaft will lock. I'm gonna hold the drive shaft as well as keeping the wrench back there to lock it, and now I can remove these bolts.

We're about to remove the differential, but before we do it, we're gonna support it with the transmission jack and then use the jack to slide it out. To make removing the differential a little bit easier, we're gonna remove the two bolts holding on the steering rack so we can get some wiggle room out of it. We're gonna start off on this bolt, which is a 24 millimeter. You don't need to completely remove this bolt. Just loosen it and then support the passenger's side of the steering rack with a pole jack. With the differential supported, we're gonna remove the three differential mounts. This top one's pretty difficult to get to. You're gonna wanna go through the engine compartment to get to it. To remove this bolt, you're gonna jack up the passenger's side of the steering rack and that will give you clearance from the steering shaft. Then you can remove the bolt.

Next, we're gonna remove this mount on the differential with a 21 millimeter socket. Just one more bolt now. Remove the third bolt with an 18 millimeter wrench. We have all the mounts disconnected on the differential. Now we're gonna lower it about an inch, disconnect the vent tube and then we'll get the differential out of there. Just simply pull off the vent tube from the differential, and now we can get this differential out of here. You will lose a little bit of fluid when removing this.

Earlier, we loosened up the steering rack, just to give us more clearance to get the hardware out. Now we have to do a little bit of cutting, so I think it's a good idea to remove the steering rack just to keep it safe. There's two electrical connectors on the steering rack that you have to undo. Now we'll take out the second bolt. To completely remove the steering rack, you have to release the steering knuckle. We're gonna put a mark on it so we know how to reinstall it. With the steering shaft mark, you can remove the 10 millimeter bolt.

Okay, we're ready to start cutting. There's two cuts we have to make. The first one is gonna be on the driver's side crossmember bracket, and the other will be on the driver's side differential bracket. We're gonna make two lines on this crossmember bracket. We're gonna measure 2-5/8 of an inch inside. Put a line there. We're gonna do this on the other side of this cross member bracket.

Our second cut is gonna be on this driver's side differential bracket. We're pretty much gonna cut this straight in half and grind this section flush with the frame. All that's gonna be left is this side of the bracket.

We have all of our cuts made and everything's grinding down nicely. Now we're gonna hit it with some black spray paint so it doesn't rust. While your paint's drying, you're gonna locate the driver's side differential drop bracket and thread in the rod end. Then you're gonna make sure it's an inch and a quarter away from the bung. Install it just like we have here on our drop bracket, and make sure the center of the rod end is an inch and three-quarter away from the bung. Once you thread it in, you can install the set screw on the back, but don't tighten this just yet. Just get it in place. Install the differential drop bracket with the provided 14 millimeter Allen bolt and washer. You're gonna thread this bolt in, but do not tighten it just yet.

The passenger's side differential drop bracket is installed next with the factory hardware. The kit comes with this vent tube extension that needs to be installed before we can install the differential. The differential can now be raised into the drop brackets. We're gonna secure it with just a bolt and washer for right now. We're not gonna use any nuts. With the differential in place, we can now connect the vent tube to the top of the differential. Just press it onto the barb.

Next, we're gonna install this bracket onto the differential mount and cross member mount, just like that. Install a nut and washer onto the differential mount bolt. Then install the crush tube and factory bolt.

We're on the passenger's side now, and we're gonna install the differential mount bracket with the provided nut and washer. The sway bar drop brackets are gonna be installed next with the provided hardware. Do the same thing on the driver's side.

Things are starting to get a little heavy now. It's time to install the rear cross member. You're gonna install this bolt through the sway bar bracket and then through the cross member. We have our bolt in on the passenger's side. Now it's time to line up the driver's side. We're hitting ... there we go. And she's through. Install a washer and nut on the bolts that you just put through the cross member.

We're gonna take the factory hardware for the cross member and install it through the frame pocket, through the ReadyLIFT cross member and into the differential bracket. Install the provided bolt and the differential mount, then the nut and washer.

We have the rear cross member installed, and now it's time for the showpiece of this kit, and that's the front cross member. The factory hardware is gonna be used to hold this crossmember in place. For the factory steering rack to work with this seven inch lift, ReadyLIFT supplies the steering extension that installs onto the factory rack. Place the extension onto the rack, and then install the locking bolt. You're gonna torque this bolt to 165 inch pounds. For proper steering alignment when you install this extension assembly, make sure that this pinch bolt right here lines up perfectly with the notch on the extension shaft.

We're gonna lift the steering rack up and bolt it to our new cross member. We're gonna raise up the driver's side of the steering rack and line up the steering extension with the rod end that we installed, and then get the driver's side bolt installed, too. With the steering rack installed, we're gonna line up the steering extension with the factory steering shaft. We're gonna install the factory pinch bolt into the intermediate shaft. Install the cam bracket and nut on the front of the cross member. Do the same thing on the rear. Make sure when you install these cam nuts, do not tighten these just yet. Just get them hand-loose. It's important to note when installing these cam nuts and brackets, don't fully tighten these just yet. Just get them hand-tight. Do the same thing for the passenger control arm.

We're gonna go back and tighten everything that we just installed to the proper torque spec. We have all the hardware torqued. Now we're gonna install this skid plate underneath the differential. Once you get the bolts tightened, you can torque them to 35 foot-pounds. Find the marks that you put on your drive shaft and differential earlier and line them up. Then you're gonna install the drive shaft spacer. I installed the six provided Allen bolts with thread locker. Once you get all the bolts threaded in, they all get torqued at 50 foot pounds.

The truck is starting to come together now, and the struts can be reinstalled, along with the strut spacer. These only go on one way, and they are marked D for driver's side and P for passenger's side. You're gonna secure the spacer to the strut with the provided nuts, and then use the factory nuts on top of the spacer. Each nut's gonna get torqued to 35 foot-pounds. Place the strut into the upper strut mount and loosely install the top nuts to hold it in place. We have the strut secured up top. Now it needs to be secured on the bottom by lifting up the lower control arm. Install the factory nuts on the bottom.

The CV axles can now be installed, as well. To fully seat these axles, you're gonna put a piece of wood right here on the axle and hit it with a hammer. We have the steering knuckle in place. Now we're gonna install the vacuum actuator on the axle.

Things are starting to get a little heavy now. It's time to install the steering knuckles. Get it onto the lower ball joint on the lower control arm. Install the lower nut. Now you can install the hub. With the knuckle in place, we're gonna install the hub and make sure the ABS sensor is at the top. You're gonna secure it with the factory hardware.

The next part's gonna be a little tricky. We have to line up the axle with the hub now and also get the upper knuckle attached to the upper ball joint. The axle nut can now be reinstalled. The axle nut then get torqued at 18 foot pounds. Reinstall the factory dust cap and use a 28 millimeter socket to go around it and get it seated. Reinstall the three bolts for the vacuum actuator. Torque all three vacuum actuator bolts to five foot-pounds. Install the factory dust shield back onto the hub.

The brakes can now be installed, as well. Install the outer tie rod into the knuckle. With this installed, we're gonna go back and tighten everything on this suspension. Install the brake line bracket onto the knuckle with the provided bolt. While you're doing the brake line, you can install the ABS wire on the knuckle, as well. Connect the vacuum lines on the vacuum actuator. Install the brake line extension bracket onto the frame. The bracket on the brake hose then gets attached to the extension bracket. Run the ABS wire back up into the engine compartment and reattach it.

There's one more major component still missing, and that's the sway bar, so we're gonna reinstall it with the factory bracket onto the drop brackets and the lower control arm.

The final step on the front part of the lift is put the wheels on and put the truck on the ground so you can adjust the cam bolts on the front cross member. You're gonna set them to full inboard to get the most amount of camber out of them, and then torque them to 150 foot-pounds. Once you get all four torques, your installation for the front is finished and you can move to the rear.

Okay, we're finished with the front. Now we're on to the rear. We have the truck up in the air with the wheels off. The first thing we're gonna do is disconnect the brake hose bracket on the frame. Grab a 10 millimeter socket and remove this bolt right here on the frame. This clip right here should also be removed. It's gonna give your brake line a lot more play.

We have the rear end supported with two pole jacks. Now we're gonna disconnect both shocks. The bottom shock nut is an 18 millimeter and the nut is a 15. Now we'll remove the top shock bolt. Once you have everything loose, you can remove the shock. We have the shocks removed and now we can loosen but not remove the nuts on the driver's side U-bolt.

We're gonna continue to lower the rear so we can fit our new block in. Install our new block and raise the rear back up. Make sure you line it up with the bosses on the leaf spring. We have the ReadyLIFT block installed. The factory U-bolts are way too short, so we have longer U-bolts to go along with the block. With the U-bolts, you can install the U-bolt retainer and then the nuts. You don't need to make these tight just yet. Just get them on by hand.

We had the blocks installed on the driver's side, so we'll install the U-bolts on this side as well, then the retainer and nuts. Just like on the passenger's side, we're gonna snug these up but do not fully tighten them just yet.

At this point, the shocks can be installed. We're gonna be installing Ready Lift’s SST3000 shocks. These are much longer than the factory shocks, so they don't blow out and they'll offer better off-road performance. Install the shock into the frame, using the factory hardware. Extend the shock down, line it up with the axle and put the factory hardware through it. Make sure you have the body of the shock on the axle, not on the frame. Once you get the shock in place, you can tighten all the hardware. Do the same thing to the passenger's side shock. Install the brake hose drop bracket to the frame, using the factory bolt. Then attach the brake hose bracket to the drop bracket with the provided bolts.

We have everything in place. We're gonna lower these pole jacks and then put the wheels on the truck, and then we're gonna put the truck on the ground and fully torque the U-bolts and shocks. Okay, we have the truck on the ground. Now we're gonna go underneath it and torque the U-bolt nuts to 120 foot pounds and the shock hardware to 60 foot pounds.

Okay, our ReadyLIFT suspension lift is installed. Our truck is definitely a lot higher and it's looking pretty good, but it looks like it skipped leg day, so a nice set of wheels and tires is on the way. To do this lift, you'll really want to set aside an entire weekend, and you'll need a good amount of tools. Before you know it, you'll be heading off-road.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following F-150 years:

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