Scott Drake Electric Remote Trunk Release 1967-1970

Scott Drake: C7AZ-6243200-EL
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Scott Drake Electric Remote Trunk Release 1967-1970
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Scott Drake

Product Description

Scott Drake Electric Remote Trunk Release Kit for all 1967, 1968, 1969 and 1970 Mustangs.

Scott Drake does it again with this premium electronic remote trunk release, now available here at CJ Pony Parts!

Scott Drake's new remote trunk release features all-new electrical components that combined the classic look of the original remote release with modern electrical technology by utilizing a chrome release lever and a micro switch. No cables to stretch out of shape or rust--Scott Drake's premium zinc-plated trunk latch incorporates a powerful solenoid for reliability and strength. All mounting hardware and connectors are included and the entire kit was designed to be easily installed in less than an hour. Bring some modern convenience to your classic pony and order this Remote Electronic Trunk Release by Scott Drake today from CJ's!

*This remote trunk release can be installed on any 1967-1970 Mustang.

Scott Drake has become an iconic brand that redefines quality for reproduction and aftermarket Mustang parts for 1965 to present Mustangs, and has become the standard for OEM quality Mustang parts that offer the best fit, durability and quality. Every part is designed to look and function exactly like the original, right down to the tiny details that the manufacturers of standard reproductions tend to ignore. CJ Pony Parts is proud to offers thousands of premium-quality Scott Drake products to help you restore your classic Mustang. Browse our huge selection today!

Order a premium Scott Drake C7AZ-6243200-EL Remote Electronic Trunk Release for your classic 1967, 1968, 1969 or 1970 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!

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Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

Product Reviews

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Scott Drake Electric Remote Trunk Release 1967-1970 is rated 3.4 out of 5 by 5.
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Disappointment. After waiting for 33 days for my Scott Drake Electric Remote Trunk Release 1967-1970 to arrive, I removed the mechanism from the box and tried to fit it to my 1969 Sportsroof. Well, the new trunk release does not fit.To make the mechanism fit properly the trunk release mounting bracket needs a bit of metal relieving on the right lower side and a slot will need to be cut in the right side of the bracket to allow the release lever to clear the structure when the trunk release is operated. The new trunk release mechanism will need to be spaced rearwards about 3/16" to clear the ridges on the inside of the bracket as well. I thought Scott Drake products were well researched and of high quality but, I'm sorry I can't endorse this one.
Date published: 2016-11-27
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Works like a charm I bought this part knowing it was for a mustang. I was able to easily adapt it to my 1968 cougar.
Date published: 2015-01-07
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Quality part This is a quality part and works well. I installed in a 69 mustang and had to create some clearance for the release mechanism to work properly. Be careful not to overtighten the mounting screws. The threaded inserts are easy to strip.
Date published: 2015-01-13
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Functions well It functions like it should and looks good. Great instructions come with it. Works well with the keyless remote as well.
Date published: 2017-03-15
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Deceptive I purchased this quite a while ago, knowing that I wanted to put in an electronic trunk release and use the trunk key for my backup camera. I installed the latch some time ago and, apart from the usual fiddling that comes anytime you replace the trunk latch, it fit great on my 67 coupe. I finally got around to starting to put the wiring in today and my 5-star immediately dropped to 1. Here's why. The trunk release product sold consists of an electronic latch (with internal solenoid), relay, and decorative lever. The relay is incased in heat-shrink, both so that it is protected from bare-metal contact and also what for saying "it has a relay". For those at Scott Drake unfamiliar with angry pixies (apparently, they are many), solenoids actually draw amperage (who'da thunk). When said amperage flows through a circuit of lesser character then required to carry the amperage (ahem, the cheap microswitch within the lever), a relay should be inserted such that a very small current triggers the relay and the relay carries the amperage for the power circuit. The included relay is unfortunately wired with the pull-in circuit cross linked to the power circuit, meaning the included relay adds nothing but the extra load of energizing a relay (which um... does nothing). Over time, this will cause excessive arcing within the microswitch, resulting in carbon-buildup and failure (whereby you'll buy another). In short, the setup is designed to extract maximum dollars as opposed to maximum longevity. I measured it with an amp-meter and the solenoid draws a little over an amp under no-load, likely more once you've got the trunk closed, and has a 2 amp release spike. Figure on that tiny microswitch having to endure a 2-3 amp hit, or more, on every trunk release. A microswitch is not designed for this. My big problem with this is that there are only 2 ways of explaining the setup, incompetence or deception, neither reflects well on the product. The relay included is extra cost and not only provides no value but actually performs the opposite of its intended goal, it increases the load on the microswitch, by means of adding the relay-coil energization load, instead of decreasing it. So, do yourself a favor and throw out the little gray P.O.S. that Scott Drake includes, and wire it in with an actual trunk relay. 5 minutes on Youtube can give you a better education then the engi-nerding that went into this thing. Pros: It looks nice and is still an electric trunk release that fits in a restomod. Cons: See above, it's an electronic train-wreck. Just assume you have to add your own relay and wire it like you actually like your car and you'll be fine.
Date published: 2017-08-30
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Product Questions

will work in a 1968 cougar?

Asked by: pingmonk
The vendor has not provided any information regarding cross-fitments of this part to any other model then what is listed.
Answered by: CJPP Dave
Date published: 2015-10-20
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Product Video

Scott Drake Electric Remote Trunk Release 1967-1970 Video Transcript
By Bill Tumas: The options available on new Mustangs these days are pretty amazing. Glass roofs, navigation, heated seats, six-speed transmissions, our Pony car has come a long way. Even the standard features available now are things enthusiasts from the '60s could only dream of.

One of those things that many people take for granted is electric trunk release. Pretty much any car these days is going to include one. Back in the '60s, the only way you're opening your trunk is with the key. Scott Drake doesn't feel that enthusiasts should have to suffer without this feature, so they offer this electric conversion kit for a '65 through '70 Mustang.

As usual, Scott Drake provides everything needed for installation including this vintage style release lever, new electric latch, wiring with relay, and full color instructions. For this installation we used a 3/8-inch ratchet, a 3/8-inch socket, 7/16-inch socket, Phillips head screwdriver, drill, flashlight, electrical tape, wire strippers, crimping tool, multi meter, and safety glasses.

Scott Drake offers two versions of the electric trunk release kit, one for '64 through '66 cars and one for '67 through '70. The only difference with the installation is going to be the trunk latch itself. We're going to be installing our kit on this 1967 coupe.

First step, remove the original latch. To remove the latch, first we're going to take the lock cylinder and the rod out. The cylinder is held in place with a small little spring plate. With a good pull on it take it right out. Next step just push against the lock rod and the lock cylinder rod will come right out. Next we can remove the latch itself by removing these three 7/16-inch bolts.

Here you can see a comparison between the original and our Scott Drake trunk latch. Obviously the Drake is much larger due to the electronic solenoid built into it. It's only going to use these two mounting holes. You also want to make sure that it's in the open position. Ours currently is locked. You want to turn it and open it before you install it. Install using the original hardware. We are going to fish the wiring harness down first bringing it out on the driver's side. Inch it in place and put the bolts back in.

I am going to reinstall our factory lock cylinder. Now I'll move forward to the wiring. We're just going to fish the wire up to the back seat area. In this case we're just going to lay it across our trunk since our trunk mat is going to cover it when it's reinstalled.

Now we'll move onto the handle. Next we'll be installing the release lever. We'll be mounting it on the seat platform right here next to the seat. The next step is going to be to remove our door sill plates so we can fish our wires through.

Now we're going to drill pilot holes to mount our bracket. Now we're going to remove our backseat, just the lower cushion, to make it easier to fish the wire from the trunk area over to our lever. Just stick your hand underneath it and just pull upward.

This is the wiring harness that goes between the lever in the interior and our trunk latch. It has a built in relay. The relay end stays in the trunk. You want to fish the other end through to your interior. To make it easier grab an old coat hanger and tape the wire to it. It makes it easier to fish it through your back seat.

See our wire is right where we needed it. Take the tape off it here. I'm going to pull through enough slack so that it reaches the lever and then it'll go back to the trunk. The relay is going to have to be ground. We're going to use this screw right here so we don't have to drill anymore holes. I'm going to scrape it clean so we get a good ground. Now we connect the bullet connector to our trunk latch.

Relay has a double stick, we're just going to remove that and stick it right on there. I'm going to fish the wire through the trim panel. Pull back on the windlace and the panel will stick out a little bit more. Fish the wire underneath the back tucked up underneath the carpet here. Now we're going to terminate it and connect it to our lever. The lever has this black tape over the wires for the first couple of inches to make it easier to hide them. I'm just going to cut a small split in the carpet and we can fish them from the underside and hide them even better.

Now with the solderless connect we can connect to the wire that we fish from the trunk and our additional wire is going to go up to the fuse box to power our trunk release. We're going to line it up with the wire here with just a little bit of extra slack. Cut off the excess. Grab the supplied connector. Plug it in. Then we're going to hide the wire behind the carpet.

Now we're going to fish the other wire forward to connect to our fuse box. Next we're going to remove our kick panel to make it easier to fish the wire up into the dash area. Fish the wire down our carpet. Go up behind the kick panel across the dash. We'll come back when we're done and we'll zip tie all our wires so they'll be out of the way.

Now we're ready to hook up 12 volts to our lever. You have a couple of options here. You can either hook it up to constant power that way it's always hot and will open any time you want to or you hook it up to switched. It will only work then with the key in the ignition. For security sake we're going to hook ours up to the switched power off the back of the radio.

Fish our 12-volt power across our dash. We're use these solderless connects to connect it to 12-volts. Now we're ready to hook up our battery and test our trunk release. First we are going to test with the trunk open just to make sure our latch is working properly. We're going to close it by hand. Now we'll try it with the trunk closed.

In our case it didn't open the first time. If you have the same problem you're going to want to adjust the latch a little bit to make sure it opens properly. Both the catch and the latch itself both have some adjustability to them. Our old latch worked pretty well so we're assuming the catch is in a pretty good spot. Since we replaced the latch I am going to start by making some adjustments there. We'll try it again.

Once you've zip tied all your wires safely out of place put the door sill plate, kick panel, back seat back in, and your installation is finished. The electric trunk release is a nice addition to the '67 coupe. Depending on wiring and adjustments you can figure your installation is going to take at least about an hour. You'll be back on the road in no time.