Scott Drake Rally Pac 6000Rpm V8 1966

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Scott Drake 6000rpm Rally Pac for 1966 Mustangs with a V8 Engine.

This is the ultimate accessory for your 1966 V8 Mustang! Scott Drake's Rally Pac features a modern air-core movement tachometer and a quartz movement clock. Both the clock and tachometer faces feature the original-style fonts, but are back-lit for improved visibility when you drive your classic pony at night. The OEM-style housing and bezels are pressure zinc die-cast from Scott Drake's own tooling and coated with a tough DuPont crinkle texture. Scott Drake ensured that these reproduction rally pacs look and feel just like the originals. They can be installed on any V8 Mustang and will help bring some upgraded pony style to your interior. Pick up yours today from CJ Pony Parts!

*This premium rally pac will work with most modern electronic ignitions including Pertronix and MSD.
*Available in may factory-correct color choices. Please indicate your desired color choice in the drop-down menu.

Scott Drake Rally Pacs Include:
- All necessary brackets
- Color-coded wire harnesses
- Easy-to-follow installation instructions

Please Note: When using an MSD ignition system you must use the MSD adapter for the tachometer to function properly. See P/N: MSD8920.

Scott Drake has become an iconic brand that redefines quality for reproduction and aftermarket Mustang parts for 1965 to present Mustangs, and has become the standard for OEM quality Mustang parts that offer the best fit, durability and quality. Every part is designed to look and function exactly like the original, right down to the tiny details that the manufacturers of standard reproductions tend to ignore.

Order a premium Scott Drake 6000rpm Rally Pac for your classic 1966 Mustang with a V8 Engine today from CJ Pony Parts!

Installation Difficulty


Intermediate skill is required for this installation.

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

A few months back we introduced we introduced the Lucy here a 1965 Mustang convertible project car. Now unfortunately a few other things have come up, this kind of car kinda got pushed aside for a while, but now we're finally ready to get started. And what better way to get started with a video a lot of you have asked about and that's how to install a Rally Pac.

Unlike the Mustangs of today, back in the early 1960s, Mustangs did not come with a tachometer. The only way to get one from 1965-1966 was to add one to the car and the Rally Pac was the way to do that. This was a very popular dealer installed option back in the 1960s and looks great on the Mustangs toddy as well. This is the Scott Drake 6000 RPM Rally Pac and this is gonna fit your 1965 Mustang. We have several different versions available for 1965 through 1966.

For this installation you'll need a Philips head screwdriver, 3/8" ratchet, 1/2" socket and a 5/16" wrench.

Now since we're messing with the electrical system the first thing you want to do is disconnect your battery. Then you want to grab this harness here. We're gonna focus on this connection first. What we're gonna do is remove the door sill plate and the kick panel to access the wiring going toward to our door leg switch. This actually is going to plug in to here and here and it's gonna allow us to power the clock.

Okay, now we can remove the kick panel screws. And obviously this is an excellent time to replace any of the stuff if it's damaged like ours is.

Now you know that with the dash obviously, depending on the age of the car, what's been done, you'll find a lot of extra wires. But here is what you really want to find, this is kind of the best connection for this. You'll find this in here, these black and blue wires, what I'll do with this, take this bullet connector and connect it directly to that. Now, if there is a wire going to that, you put this in between the two of them, but if not, just plug it in.

Now we're gonna need illumination power, to do that, there's a little pigtail. It's a blue wire that comes somewhat near the ignition switch, but it's gonna be behind the cluster. Let's gonna pull the cluster off and just rest it on the column here, so we can behind it. What I did here is I removed the entire cluster to do this, so you can see what we're doing, you don't have to take the cluster out, it will give you more room to work, makes it a little bit easier. But what we gotta do here, is make two connections up here now. This wire here is gonna go to power and that's gonna go to ground. And both of those are located in the dash, right above the ignition switch area. The blue wire is gonna go to this plug here, right above the switch. There'll be nothing plugged in, that is more than likely there'll be nothing plugged into this. Now this could be blue, black, red, I've actually seen different colors. Typically it's gonna be black or it's gonna be blue.

This plugs into this, just push the pin in. Now for ground, we're gonna use the factory ground, which is located right here.

Now we can move on to the ignition harness, this will be the second wire harness we're gonna connect. Now what's gonna happen with this, this ring terminal, it's gonna go in the stud on the back of your ignition switch. Now what I suggest, there is a nut on the back of the ignition switch, you can take that off if you want but a lot of times you might damage it. What I recommend, get a 10/32" nut, you can get them in any hardware store, now we can put this on the stud and just double nut it and that'll hold it in place.

Now we take our ignition wire and put it on the stud in the back of the ignition and install the nut. Then grab a wrench, just snug it up, don't crank it too hard. Now the last wire harness is gonna be to our coil wire. Now I have already our air cleaner to make it easier for you to see. But what we're gonna do, basically just fish this over here...

And this is gonna connect to the negative terminal on our coil. Basically we're gonna route this wire right here along this factory harness and fish it through the interior. You may have to drill a hole, but usually there is an existing hole you can use here. Make sure it doesn't interrupt with anything. And we'll come back and zip tie that later. Now at this point, what I would suggest doing, before you worry about mounting the Rally Pac or anything like that, plug it all in. Make sure it works, make sure all your connections are where they're supposed to be and then we can go back and put it all back together. Red wire here goes to the coil, there is an extension wire if you do need it to get it out there. Then the black one here goes toward ignition. Plug that in. Okay, then take the first harness we installed. The two wires that are blue with red stripe go to this plug here, again blue with red stripe. You have to put them into two outside holes. Black goes to ground and the blue to the blue.

Now before we're starting the car or anything like that, as soon as this thing gets powered and you plug it in, your clock should start working. Now what you wanna check here also ... Well the door switch, make sure with the door switch closed it still works. By using that black wire, you shouldn't have any problems, but if you do connect at the door switch, close the door and it's not working, you gotta switch the wire. Now we'll start it up.

Well everything works like it should, now we can go back to mounting and hiding wires. All right now we know it works, I'll carefully disconnect everything, unplug the battery again, before you do this. And now we're gonna start mounting the Rally Pac. I'm gonna start by fishing the wires up, I'm gonna go on the left of the column here, kind of have to go one terminal through at a time, before you bring the whole harness up.

Okay, now that the wires are fished off to the side, we're gonna reconnect everything. Now the wire is safely tucked out of the way, we're actually gonna take our Rally Pac, just want to lay it down here out of the way for now. We're gonna reinstall our cluster, before we'll go on to the next step. Then to get it tight through the steering column, before you put the bracket on with the Rally Pac, we're gonna put some sort of a rubber spacer or something on here and the Rally Pac itself, so you get a good grip on the column.

But before you tighten it all the way down, you should get it right where you want it. Get it nice and even and tighten it down. Then you want to hide the wires under the hood, reinstall the kick panel and the door sill plate and your installation is finished. Now I should mention, as I reinstall these, if you had to go out to the wires to your door switch, you have to remove these. You can find that plug I showed you under the dash of the black and blue wires. You actually get to that without taking the kick panel and the door sill plate off.

And yes I know, these are pretty beat up, but we have every intention of replacing them in the near future, we'll just bring them back on for now.

Now once you're done, the last part of the installation is to set the clock. Real simple. To do that, simply grab this piece of chrome, pull out on it and then just turn it to set the clock on the correct time.

If you're looking at a tachometer of your 1965 through 1966 Mustang, this is the only way to do it. I mean the Rally Pac, it fits the car, it fits the air, it looks right at home in our 1965 convertible. As far as the installation goes, it is a little time consuming, there is some wiring involved, but overall it's about a two hour installation, it's gonna be back on the road in no time.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

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