Set of Four Eibach Sportline Springs for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 Mustangs.
Are you looking for that fierce, lowered look on your 2015-2017 Mustang? Grab a set of these Eibach Sportline Springs from CJ Pony Parts. This stellar spring system will drastically change your Mustang into an all-out handling machine while also giving it that aggressive stance.
These high-quality springs will reduce squat during acceleration, limit nose-dive while braking and reduce body roll on those hard corners. You will also see reduction in fender-well clearance, making your Mustang look just as impressive as it performs when you install these versatile new Eibach Sportline Springs.
Eibach Sportline Springs Features and Benefits:
- Aggressive, Progressive Spring Design
- Drastically Lower Center of Gravity
- Virtually Eliminates Nose-Dive When Braking
- Reduces Squat During Acceleration
- Reduces Body Roll While Cornering
- Ultra-High Performance and Fierce Appearance
- Excellent Ride Quality
- Corner Faster, Stop Quicker and Handle More Precisely
- Improved Aerodynamic Efficiency
- 1.5" Front and 1.3" Rear Drop for GT Fastback Mustang
- 1.0" Front and 1.25" Rear Drop for Ecoboost Fastback Mustang
By using an advanced progressive spring design, these performance springs provide the ultimate balance to take your passion for driving to a whole new level. The lowered ride height helps to distribute road stresses evenly and provide an improved ride quality. When combined with Plus-1 or Plus-2 wheels and tires, the Eibach Sportline Springs become that extra special touch for all out performance and appearance results in your 2015-2017 Mustang!
As everyone has learned from racing and independent testing, lowering your vehicle’s ride height improves the aerodynamic efficiency by forcing more air over the car and less underneath, where most of the drag is found, resulting in higher top speeds on the track and better MPG on the highway
Tech Tip: CJ Pony Parts recommends getting an alignment after installation to ensure your Mustang's specs are in check. Otherwise, your tires may wear improperly. If you check the manufacturer’s instructions below, alignment specifications are provided for your convenience.
Front End Alignment Specifications:
- OE Camber: -0.8 deg (+/- 0.8 deg)
- OE Caster: 7.2 deg (+/- 0.8 deg)
- OE Toe: 0.0 deg (+/- 0.2 deg)
- Sportline Camber: -1.2 deg
- Sportline Caster: 7.5 deg
- Sportline Toe: 0.2 deg
Rear End Alignment Specifications:
- OE Camber: -1.2 deg (+/- 0.8 deg)
- OE Caster: N/A
- OE Toe: 0.1 deg (+/- 0.2 deg)
- Sportline Camber: -1.6 deg
- Sportline Caster: N/A
- Sportline Toe: 0.2 deg
This Set of Four Eibach Sportline Springs is the best answer for street-driven cars that want to step up the handling and control levels for outstanding performance results combined with a stanced new appearance. Each set of Eibach Sportline Springs are designed and tested by masterful suspension engineers and performance driving professionals to deliver intimidating good looks and high performance handling, without ever compromising the safety or ride quality of your 2015-2017 Mustang.
If you’re looking to enjoy the benefits of extreme control, improved ride quality and a striking and fierce stance, then don’t hesitate to order a set of Four Eibach Sportline Springs for your 2015, 2016 or 2017 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Product ReviewsWrite a review
Will the springs fit a 2015 mustang v6
I am buying new wheels and am thinking about getting the Nitto Invos with the 295 in the rear with 20" x 10.5" Svelgen vmb9s.. Will the sportlines cause rubbing with such a large tire size? should i go down to 275??
I see in the instructions it has a oe camber and a different one that says sportline camber. The one that says sportline camber etc. Is this how the car should be set up when you get your alignment after installing the springs?
I just ordered these for my 15 V6. 255/35/20 front 395/35/20 rear. Will there be a need for any extra modifications? Is a panhard needed ?
Do you use the same springs as ecoboost and the GT?
I have a 2016 Ecoboost and I was planning to lower it and also put spacers on it. If I install the 25mm spacers and this lowering kit, would there be a problem with clearance?
How will these springs work with a set of 25mm wheel spacers? Will their be any rubbiing?
How much will installation cost if I decide on not doing it my self?
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CJ's Low Price:$3,825.00
The Sportline is going to give us a little more of an aggressive drop in the pro kit that we recently installed on a GT. The reason we want the Sportline for the EcoBoost is we feel those cars actually sit a little bit higher than the GT factory. We wanted to make sure we brought it down where we wanted it. The kit is going to include two fronts, two rears, four new bump stops and new dust boots for the front struts as well. Here, you’ll see a comparison between stock springs and the EcoBoost. The height difference is enormous. Obviously, it’s not going to drop the car that much, but you can see it’s a much heavier-duty spring in the rear as well. These are going to do a great job not only lowering the car. It’s going to handle better and be much tighter.
For this installation, you’ll need a lift and a pull jack or jack and jack stands, panel removal tool, 17-millimeter wrench, half-inch impact gun, 13-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, 15/16-inch socket, 6-inch extension, hammer and a spring compressor.
We recently showed you how to install the pro kit on a 2015 GT. Whether you have a GT EcoBoost or V-6, the installation process is going to be the exact same. In case you missed that video, we’ll run you through how to install the Sportlines on our EcoBoost. Once the wheel is off, you can remove the nuts that hold the strut to the strut tower. One of them is hidden underneath the cover here. You want to take two of these all the way off. The outside one, just leave it loose. We’ll start by removing the pieces off the strut itself. We need to remove the first one being the sway bar. We’re going to hold the in-link from the back and take the nut off from the front.
The ABS line is held under the strut as well as the spindle. It’s easiest to remove both of them so the line is out of the way. There’s little clips, put a little tool in there and pop the clip off. To be able to remove the nut and bolt that hold the spindle to the strut, you have to remove the brake caliper to get to these nuts back here, one bolt at the bottom, one bolt at the top. Let’s place it back here out of the way on the cam. We’re going to take the rotor off as well just because it’s in the way. We’ll start separating the spindle from the strut by removing these two nuts here. You don’t want to take them all the way off. These bolts are splined and have to be hammered out. We’re going to loosen them all over the ends, and we’ll hammer the splines out.
Leaving the nuts on actually serves two purposes: One, it will stop you from rounding off the end of the bolt making it hard to get the nut back on, the other, once you hammer it off the bolt is not going to fly out the front. Now we can separate the strut from the spindle. Then you want to reach up top, grab the strut nut that you left hand-tight. Remove that, and then remove your strut assembly. To remove the spring from the strut assembly, we have to remove the nut up here and then the strut mount itself. To do that, you want to compress the spring first. Don’t try to remove this because it will launch off at you.
Now we’re going to remove the nut from the top of the strut mount and take the strut mount off, and then decompress the spring. Eibach includes a new bump stop as well as new dust boots to work with your factory struts. Even though the new spring is much shorter than the factory spring, we still have to compress a little bit to install it. Before you install it, you want to make sure the Eibach is upward when you install the spring onto the strut. We’re going to put the new bump stop and dust boot into place on the strut. Then we can install our new spring. Make sure the strut is seated in the factory insulator. Our assembly is ready to go back in the car.
Now to put the strut assembly back in place, we want to slide it up and grab the last nut you removed. That will hold it on once it’s in place. Make sure the ABS line is in the front of the strut and hasn’t been tucked behind it. Once it’s up in place, grab the other two nuts. Again, put them on just hand-tight, enough to hold it in place for you. The strut hanging can line the spindle back up. Grab the spindle bolts and push them through. Now that’s tight, we can reinstall the rotor and the caliper. Reinstall the ABS line clips. Then reinstall your inline. The last step: Don’t forget to tighten up the nuts on the strut tower. You want to repeat the process on the other side, and you can move onto the rear.
To install the rear springs, we’re going to lower the sub-frame of the car one side at a time. Before you do that, you want to pull the ABS line off the bracket here and remove this bolt. That will give us more play with the brake line. This just pops right off. The bump stop is inside the rear shot, so we have to replace that as part of the installation. We also want to remove these two bolts to remove the shock from the body to allow it to go lower. To get the bump stop off, we’ve got to remove the bracket from the top of the shock. This plastic cover, just twist it and pop it. It will come off. Then remove that nut. This will just slide off the top.
We’re going to reuse the stock dust boots, so you want to push the bump stop down inside and remove it. The new bump stops are included. We found the opening in these is quite a bit smaller than the one in the factory. You’ll want to use something, a drill bit whatever. Bring this opening out a little bit more to make it easier to get this over the shock. Put it down in the stock boot. I found an extension works well to push it up on [inaudible 00:09:21]. Even if you’re reaming out, it’s still a tight fit which is good. You don’t want it to slide up and down too easily. You want to put it onto the shock, and then pull it down into place.
Now you put the mount back on top of the shock, and reinstall the nut. We’re going to reinstall the cap. We’re going to leave this disconnected and go underneath the car. Move the sub-frame bolt so you can lower it down to install the spring. We’ll start by supporting the sub-frame. Use a pole jack or a jack. You don’t want to just pull off the sub-frame bolts without support, and let it drop down because it is rather heavy. Before you work on the large sub-frame bolts, you want to take these two bolts up here and just loosen them up. Now we can take out the sub-frame bolt. Now you can slowly remove the rear making sure the sub-frame is supported.
Now we’ll go back to our pole jack and lower down the sub-frame. Get it down to the point where it gets loose. You want to pull down on it a little bit. Now you want to pull down on the control arm and pull the spring out of the part. The rear spring, again same as the front. With the Eibach upward, install the factory insulator, and put it up into place. You want to put it in from the top, the same way you took it out. The controller has a preset stop for the bottom of your coil spring. To make sure the factory insulator is up against it when you put the spring in place, you want to turn it until it’s tucked in there. Once you do that, you can lift the sub-frame back into place.
We’re going to put the bolts up into place for the sub-frame. Get them started by hand and make sure they go in straight. The same thing for the front bolt. Now you can tighten them up. Once they’re tight, we’re going to remove our jack. Reinstall the ABS line and the clip. Reconnect the brake line. Last step: Push the shock down into place. There’s actually two little studs that goes underneath to hold it. Line it up and reinstall the bolts. Repeat the process on the other side and your installation is finished.
The Eibach Sportline springs combined with our new Niche wheels gives our EcoBoost the perfect stance. The installation of these will probably take you between two and three hours. You should be back on the road in no time. For more installation videos for your 2015 Mustang, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel.