Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs Mustang GT 2015-2025

If you've ever bought a brand new Mustang like our 2015 here, or even picked up a used stock Mustang, the following scenario is probably pretty familiar. When you first get the car, everything's great. Looks great, sounds great, plenty of power, no reason to change a thing. Then you kind of get used to it and think, "You know, I wish it was maybe a little bit louder," and on goes an after-market exhaust system. Then you start thinking, "You know what? Maybe a little more power would be nice." Cold air kit and a tune usually takes care of that problem as well. Then you start thinking, "You know what? It looks great. I wish it was just a little bit lower." Lowering your Mustang has a lot of performance benefits, but one of the main benefits, it simply looks good lower. So today we're going to show you how to lower our 2015 Mustang using Eibach's Pro Kit Springs.

With 19" and 20" wheels being available, the wheel gap in the new Mustang is nowhere near as bad as the older models, but it still sits pretty high. The Eibach spring kit's going to come with coil springs, new bump stops, and new dust boots, and it's going to lower our 2015 GT approximately 1" in the front and 1.1" in the back. For this installation, you need a lift or a jack and jack stands, 1/2" impact gun or 1/2" ratchet, 13-mm socket, 15-mm socket, 18-mm socket, 21-mm socket, 22-mm socket, 24-mm socket, a few different extensions, 15-mm wrench, 17-mm wrench, panel removal tool, hammer, and a spring compressor.

While the control arm geometry has changed, if you've ever done an S197 spring it's going to look pretty familiar, and the process is basically the same. Disconnect from the spindle, disconnect up here, and remove your factory strut and spring assembly. Unlike the previous generation, your strut mount is held into the strut tower with only 3 bolts instead of the usual 4. We're going to remove 2 of them. Leave 1 of them just a little bit loose so the strut hangs, making it easier to remove.

First thing we'll do is get the ABS line out of the way. There's 1 clip that's held on here, and another one in the middle of the strut body. Once we move the ABS line, put a wrench on the back of your sway bar and remove the nut. To remove the spindle from the strut, you've got to remove these nuts here. Unfortunately, the bottom one you're not going to be able to get to with your stock brake calipers in the way. So we're going to remove these two bolts here to remove the brake caliper. You want to move the caliper safely out of the way. You can lay it back here. We'll pull the rotor off as well to give us some more room.

Now we can remove the nuts that hold the spindle to the strut. Actually, you want to take them off and then put them on just a little bit again. I'll show you why in a minute. Bolts going into the spindle have splines on the other end, so you can't put anything on there to turn them off. They're not going to turn. What you have to do is tap on both sides to push them out. Now I'll finish removing the last nut on the top, and remove the stock assembly.

To remove the factory springs, you'll need a spring, and remove the nut from the top of the strut to remove our strut mount. Now remove the nut from the strut. Then release tension on the spring compressor. Here you can see a comparison between our Eibach progressive rate spring and our factory spring. Obviously, there's a massive height difference. For a spring that only lowers it an inch, the spring is much, much shorter, giving you an idea how soft the factory springs really are.

We'll start with the new spring assembly by installing the new bump stop and new supplied dust boot. This will actually pop right into the channel at the top, and slide it over. Now we're going to compress the Eibach spring so we can install it on the car. Reinstall the strut and mount. We'll tighten down the strut nut. Then now you can remove the spring compressor. Now we'll put our new strut assembly back in the car. You line up the top studs and make sure this is facing the proper way. You can turn it, but it's easier if it's lined up to start with.

Once the strut's back in place, now we can reinstall the bolts that hold the spindle to the strut. As we tighten these down, it'll pull the splines in from the other side. Put the sway bar back in. Reinstall our rotor and caliper. A little trick to do is put the rotor back on, put 1 lug nut on at the bottom in place. It makes it a lot easier to line up the caliper. Once you're done there, snap the AVS line back into place. Finally we'll tighten down the strut mount nuts. We're going to repeat the process on the other side, and we can move on to the rear spring.

Due to the IRS change for the '15, the rear suspension's going to be completely different, so it's not going to be like any other install you've ever done on an S197 car. If you want to get the springs out, we've found the best thing to do is actually lower the sub-frame by disconnecting the shock and the sub-frame bolts, and slowly lower it down to remove the spring. You want to remove both rear wheels. It makes the job a lot easier.

Since we're going to be lowering the sub-frame down to get the spring out, the first thing you want to do is support it, so when we remove the bolts it's held up, and then we can slowly lower it down. We'll start by loosening up the 2 bolts here that connect the sub-frame to the body. You don't need to take them all the way out. Just loosen them up so we have some play. As you can see, the factory rear brake hose makes a rather sharp turn. Since we're pulling the sub-frame down, this is actually going to get tighter. So to be safe, we're going to remove the bracket so there's more play with the brake hose.

Once that's loosened up before we lower the sub-frame, disconnect the 2 bolts that hold the shock body to the body itself. We'll start with the rear sub-frame to body bolt, and now the front. Now we'll lower it down. Now you can pull down on the sub-frame, and pull out the spring. The bump stop is located inside the shocks, so we're going to remove the shock cover, then remove the factory cover and bump stop. Remove the mount and the factory dust boot. We're going to retain the factory dust boot. Remove the original bump stop simply by pushing down. Put the new one into place. Ready to install. Slide the new bump stop over, press it down on the body, and we'll reinstall the mount and the nut.

We'll reinstall the stock isolator, and put it back in the car. You want to make sure it's seated properly in the lower isolator as well, and lift it back into place. Once it's up in place, reinstall the shock bolts. There's actually 2 stops on top here, so you know the mount's in the right place when it touches them. We'll tighten these back down. Now reinstall the brake line. Now put the bolts back into place for the sub-frame. Get them started by hand just to make sure they're lined up. Finally, tighten down the 2 front bolts to the body. Now remove the jack. You want to repeat the process on the other side, and your installation's finished.

The Eibach Pro Kit springs are going to make your 2015 Mustang handle better, have less body roll and less brake dive. The think you're really going to notice though is how much better it looks. Dropping the car an inch made a huge difference in the stance and the overall attitude of our 2015 Mustang. The installation should take you between 2 and 3 hours, so you'll be back on the road in no time.