Product Description
Set of Eibach Sportline Coil Springs for 2013 Focus STs Built Before July 8th, 2013.
Eibach made the Sportlines as the next step up from the Pro-Kit. This is where extreme performance meets extreme styling. Sportlines will equip your Focus with race car like handling. Eibach offers this extreme performance coil spring kit for the Focus enthusiast that craves a race car feel and attitude. Achieve the lowest possible drop with the exceptional ride quality you expect from Eibach.
These springs radically lower your Focus' center of gravity, dramatically reducing squat during acceleration, body roll in corners and excessive nose-dive under braking. Stop quicker, corner faster and gain better MPG for maximum street performance. Lowering a car improves aerodynamic efficiency by forcing more air over the car and less underneath which is where most of the drag is found on any vehicle.
Measurements:
- Lowers Front 1.4"
- Lowers Rear 1.4"
Please Note: This spring kit fits 2013 Focus STs built before July 8th, 2013.
When combined with some of today's extravagant 18", 19" or 20" wheels and tires, the result is a Focus that has amazing handling and supremely impressive appearance. The progressive spring design provides the ultimate balance to take your passion for driving to a whole new level. Eibach's legendary sport spring system dramatically improves your Focus' performance and appearance. Every Sportline kit is designed and tested by Eibach suspension engineers and performance driving professionals to deliver aggressive looks and high performance handling, without ever compromising safety or ride quality.
Order this Set of Eibach (4.14035) Sportline Coil Springs for your 2013 Focus ST Built Before July 8th, 2013 from CJ Pony Parts today!
Installation Instructions
Product Reviews
Write a review
Eibach Coil Spring Sportline Set Focus ST Early 2013 is rated
out of
5 by
2.
Rated 5 out of
5
by
Joshua1715 from
Amazing drop
I originally bought 2014 Prokit springs thinking they would fit my 2013. NOPE! So I decided to go with the 2013 Sportlines and am in absolute love. They lower the car to the perfect height. On stock wheels and tires, there's no rubbing and I don't bottom out. I would purchase these again if I had a stock another 2013 Focus ST.
Date published: 2015-09-11
Rated 5 out of
5
by
Zixxer636 from
Perfect lowering height for springs only
The eibach sportline lowering springs offer the biggest drop in height from all the springs that I was looking at. I chose springs over coil overs because they're more affordable. I have had sportline springs on two of my previous cars so I was already leaning towards them for my focus ST. During installation the front can be a little agrivating but it is expected. Be careful spreading the spendal, if you tighten the bolt too tight you'll mess up the threads. I had to re thread both sides. Also be careful taking apart the top strut mounts from the strut, if the bearing comes apart you could loose all the ball bearings. Lowering springs make a stiffer ride on anything so don't expect a luxury ride. But body roll and nose dive are significantly reduced with these springs. Plus million mile warranty.
Date published: 2017-07-20
Product Questions
How much was the car out of alignment after installation of the sportline springs? Are any other parts needed such as camber bolts or adjustable arms? Im hoping I can just do simple toe n go alignment and be done.
You should always have an alignment performed after installing lowering springs, than you will find out if any camber bolts or adjustable arms are needed, or you could just replace them when doing the lowering springs than have it aligned.
Date published: 2017-07-06
would this fit on a 2017 focus st
No, this spring kit fits 2013 Focus STs built before July 8th, 2013.
Date published: 2017-06-14
Do you need wheel spacers or rim off set if you install these? I was thinking of installing 18x9.5 wheels
No, these can be installed with factory wheels.
Date published: 2016-12-27
Do you guys carry these for later 2013 st? (June 2013) is my build date. Also would I be able to get an alignment with all the stock parts after installation on the springs and have it be back to normal? Thank you!
We offer the pro kit part #35144.140 for your application. I wouldn't be able to tell you if you would need any additional parts after the springs are installed to correct the alignment.
Date published: 2016-01-05
Will any of these springs fit a regular ford focus not the st model?
No, they won't. STs have a unique suspension, so non-ST and ST parts don't cross over.
Date published: 2015-08-28
Will this fit a 2014 st?
No, it won't. There's a few differences in the suspensions between the 2013 and 2014 Focus STs that prevent many 2013 specific products from working in 2014s. Eibach doesn't offer a Sportline kit for 2014, but we offer the Pro Kit: http://www.cjponyparts.com/eibach-coil-spring-set-pro-kit-focus-st-2014/p/35144140/
Date published: 2015-01-07
You Might Also Like
-
CJ's Low Price:$3,700.00 -
-
From:CJ's Low Price:$209.00 -
-
Product Video
By Bill Tumas:
The Focus ST is a great little performance car out of box. Like most enthusiasts we feel there are a couple areas that could be improved. One in particular is the suspension, the excessive body rolls, as well as nose diving under heavy braking. The easiest way to fix these problems is to lower the center of gravity by using a set of lowering springs. Today, we're going to install these Eibach Sportlines on our Focus ST.
The Eibach kit includes the four springs, a pair of new dust boots, as well as four new bump stops. The kit we're installing is the Sportline which will lower our Focus ST approximately an inch and a half all the way around. If you want something a little less aggressive, Eibach offers the Pro Kit, which will give you a one inch drop in the front and a little over one inch in the back.
For this installation you need a jack end jack stands, or a lift and pull jack, 1/2 inch impact gun, 19 mm socket, 1 inch socket, spring compressor, small pick, 3/8 ratchet, T30 torx bit, 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket, 13 mm socket, 15 mm socket, 15 mm deep socket, range extension, 6 inch extension, 17 mm wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, flashlight, hammer, torque wrench, and safety glasses.
On our Focus ST, our strut tower is actually under this plastic cover. There are three bolts that hold this strut to the tower. We've got to remove part of this cover to be able to access the tower. The first part is to remove the four clips across the center. Now, we'll remove the two torx bits located on either end. Now, we'll remove our seal. The next step is to remove the plastic covers located on each side. Simply reach from the back and pull straight up. The last step is these two bolts inside the cowl area.
Now, what you're actually removing is the lower plastic cover. The upper is held in place by the wipers. I'm going to lift it up and slide the other cover out. Now, you want to remove this rubber hose from the center and place it aside. The strut bolts are located here, here, and the other one is back behind here. We're just going to loosen them up for now; we don't want to remove them just yet.
Now, we're ready to remove the wheel and disconnect the strut. Start by removing the wheel. You can start by disconnecting this sway bar bracket first which also holds the mount for our ABS sensor. We're going to put a wrench on the back to hold the end link for the sway bar. Remove the nut and then we can remove the ABS bracket. Then slide the sway bar off the back. Now remove the ABS sensor. Lift down the plug like that, set it aside. Remove the bolt for your brake hose, the other side, as well.
This bolt back here is what holds the spindle assembly to the strut itself. It's a press fit so once you remove the bolt nothing will drop down. To get the spindle to separate from the strut, you have to actually basically open this gap up here between the two pieces in the back. I found the easiest thing to do is to actually take the bolt out you just removed, put in the other side and put a piece of metal in this slot.
The bolt will push against the metal and will spread it out enough to remove it. Put a piece of scrap metal in there, you can also you a small pry bar or a screwdriver. I'll thread this in. This you want to do by hand. I wouldn't suggest using the impact because you can spread it too much. Once it makes contact give it a couple pulls. Now you can see our strut is loose in our spindle. I'm going to pull down on the whole assembly, get it to pop free. You don't actually want to put a lug nut on them. Push down sometimes and it makes it a little bit easier to separate it.
Now you can remove the bolts from the tower to remove the strut. Once we get the strut out of the car, we're going to take it over to a table so we can disassemble it. You need a spring compressor for this job to remove the spring from the strut assembly. If you don't have a spring compressor, most local auto parts stores will rent you one. Once you have the spring compressed you can remove the strut nut from the top. I'm going to remove the mount. Now you want to separate it from the factory boot.
The springs include new dust boots. You want to remove these as well. So we go to the bottom, turn and pull, it should come right off. Keep the blue cap; we can put that back on. We can grab our new springs. Remove our compressor from our factory spring. Now we'll compress the new spring for installation. We'll install the new strut now. You want to make sure this bottom edge here goes in the proper corner on the factory isolator. We'll put the new dust boot down over the bottom. Eibach includes these new bump stops to install in the mouth before installing them back on the strut.
Press down and reinstall the nut. Our last step is to remove the spring compressor. We're ready to reinstall it on our car. Now we're ready to reinstall our strut assembly. You want to make sure the strut top, these two notches are facing towards the engine or these holes will not line up when you get it in place. Putting a single bolt in just to guide it into place to install it; you don't want to get it tight, get it snug enough that you can still move it around. You want to make sure the label is facing out and everything is where it belongs before you put it back into the spindle.
Now, we're going to remove the bolt that we used to open up the spindle. Now, we'll reach up and just make sure the top plate is aligned and then we'll install the top screws. Now we'll slide our spindle up on the strut and we'll reinstall the bolt. We'll reinstall the bolt for the brake line. Now we'll reconnect the sway bar. Hang the bracket for the ABS. Tighten that down. Reconnect your ABS sensor. Now you want to repeat the process on the other side. Once you're finished installing the springs in the front we'll reinstall our wheels.
We'll put it on the ground and torque to 100 foot pound. Now, we'll reassemble our cowl. Make sure you reconnect the hose before installing this plastic panel. Reinstall the two outer bolts underneath the covers. The outer torque screws go on next. Then reinstall the plastic clips. Slide the covers back on. And the last step under the hood is to reinstall the cowl weather strip. Now we can move on to the rear springs.
The rear springs are a lot less involved to install. It's a single bolt that holds this perch in place. You remove this bolt, the perch will come down and the spring will be removed. You want to make sure you support the parts with the jack before removing the bolts. Now we'll lower it down. You can pull down on the arm and remove our spring. Eibach includes new rear bump stops as well. You want to remove it from the perch before you reinstall the spring. There's no real easy way to do it. You kind of just want to wrestle it off. I'm going to spray a little lubricant into the new bump stop and also on the bracket.
Install the new one. We're going to move the factory isolator over to our new spring. Again, make sure it's seated properly. The trick with Eibach springs, make sure the words are always facing up when installing. That way you know you're installing the spring in the right direction. This bottom of perch has this little cutout here. You want to make sure the end of spring is in that cutout. That way you'll know you have it seated properly. It's easier with these score lines; you can see the red through the perch. We know we have it aligned properly. We're ready to jack it back into place.
It's going to be difficult sometimes to get the sleeve to line up again with the bracket. Easily you may have to just slightly grind the corner of the sleeve down so it'll pop easier into place. There we go. You've got to make sure it's lined up perfectly or it won't go in. Using a screwdriver is a little bit easier than trying to get the bolt in there. Make sure you get it close before you try and install the bolt. If you have to you can use a small hammer to get it started. Now we let down our jack and our installation's finished.
Eibach's have always worked great on our Mustangs and I'm happy to report they work on our Focus as well. Eye roll is almost gone and diving while braking is much improved. The installation should take you around three hours. You'll be back on the road in no time. For more ST videos make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel.
The Eibach kit includes the four springs, a pair of new dust boots, as well as four new bump stops. The kit we're installing is the Sportline which will lower our Focus ST approximately an inch and a half all the way around. If you want something a little less aggressive, Eibach offers the Pro Kit, which will give you a one inch drop in the front and a little over one inch in the back.
For this installation you need a jack end jack stands, or a lift and pull jack, 1/2 inch impact gun, 19 mm socket, 1 inch socket, spring compressor, small pick, 3/8 ratchet, T30 torx bit, 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket, 13 mm socket, 15 mm socket, 15 mm deep socket, range extension, 6 inch extension, 17 mm wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, flashlight, hammer, torque wrench, and safety glasses.
On our Focus ST, our strut tower is actually under this plastic cover. There are three bolts that hold this strut to the tower. We've got to remove part of this cover to be able to access the tower. The first part is to remove the four clips across the center. Now, we'll remove the two torx bits located on either end. Now, we'll remove our seal. The next step is to remove the plastic covers located on each side. Simply reach from the back and pull straight up. The last step is these two bolts inside the cowl area.
Now, what you're actually removing is the lower plastic cover. The upper is held in place by the wipers. I'm going to lift it up and slide the other cover out. Now, you want to remove this rubber hose from the center and place it aside. The strut bolts are located here, here, and the other one is back behind here. We're just going to loosen them up for now; we don't want to remove them just yet.
Now, we're ready to remove the wheel and disconnect the strut. Start by removing the wheel. You can start by disconnecting this sway bar bracket first which also holds the mount for our ABS sensor. We're going to put a wrench on the back to hold the end link for the sway bar. Remove the nut and then we can remove the ABS bracket. Then slide the sway bar off the back. Now remove the ABS sensor. Lift down the plug like that, set it aside. Remove the bolt for your brake hose, the other side, as well.
This bolt back here is what holds the spindle assembly to the strut itself. It's a press fit so once you remove the bolt nothing will drop down. To get the spindle to separate from the strut, you have to actually basically open this gap up here between the two pieces in the back. I found the easiest thing to do is to actually take the bolt out you just removed, put in the other side and put a piece of metal in this slot.
The bolt will push against the metal and will spread it out enough to remove it. Put a piece of scrap metal in there, you can also you a small pry bar or a screwdriver. I'll thread this in. This you want to do by hand. I wouldn't suggest using the impact because you can spread it too much. Once it makes contact give it a couple pulls. Now you can see our strut is loose in our spindle. I'm going to pull down on the whole assembly, get it to pop free. You don't actually want to put a lug nut on them. Push down sometimes and it makes it a little bit easier to separate it.
Now you can remove the bolts from the tower to remove the strut. Once we get the strut out of the car, we're going to take it over to a table so we can disassemble it. You need a spring compressor for this job to remove the spring from the strut assembly. If you don't have a spring compressor, most local auto parts stores will rent you one. Once you have the spring compressed you can remove the strut nut from the top. I'm going to remove the mount. Now you want to separate it from the factory boot.
The springs include new dust boots. You want to remove these as well. So we go to the bottom, turn and pull, it should come right off. Keep the blue cap; we can put that back on. We can grab our new springs. Remove our compressor from our factory spring. Now we'll compress the new spring for installation. We'll install the new strut now. You want to make sure this bottom edge here goes in the proper corner on the factory isolator. We'll put the new dust boot down over the bottom. Eibach includes these new bump stops to install in the mouth before installing them back on the strut.
Press down and reinstall the nut. Our last step is to remove the spring compressor. We're ready to reinstall it on our car. Now we're ready to reinstall our strut assembly. You want to make sure the strut top, these two notches are facing towards the engine or these holes will not line up when you get it in place. Putting a single bolt in just to guide it into place to install it; you don't want to get it tight, get it snug enough that you can still move it around. You want to make sure the label is facing out and everything is where it belongs before you put it back into the spindle.
Now, we're going to remove the bolt that we used to open up the spindle. Now, we'll reach up and just make sure the top plate is aligned and then we'll install the top screws. Now we'll slide our spindle up on the strut and we'll reinstall the bolt. We'll reinstall the bolt for the brake line. Now we'll reconnect the sway bar. Hang the bracket for the ABS. Tighten that down. Reconnect your ABS sensor. Now you want to repeat the process on the other side. Once you're finished installing the springs in the front we'll reinstall our wheels.
We'll put it on the ground and torque to 100 foot pound. Now, we'll reassemble our cowl. Make sure you reconnect the hose before installing this plastic panel. Reinstall the two outer bolts underneath the covers. The outer torque screws go on next. Then reinstall the plastic clips. Slide the covers back on. And the last step under the hood is to reinstall the cowl weather strip. Now we can move on to the rear springs.
The rear springs are a lot less involved to install. It's a single bolt that holds this perch in place. You remove this bolt, the perch will come down and the spring will be removed. You want to make sure you support the parts with the jack before removing the bolts. Now we'll lower it down. You can pull down on the arm and remove our spring. Eibach includes new rear bump stops as well. You want to remove it from the perch before you reinstall the spring. There's no real easy way to do it. You kind of just want to wrestle it off. I'm going to spray a little lubricant into the new bump stop and also on the bracket.
Install the new one. We're going to move the factory isolator over to our new spring. Again, make sure it's seated properly. The trick with Eibach springs, make sure the words are always facing up when installing. That way you know you're installing the spring in the right direction. This bottom of perch has this little cutout here. You want to make sure the end of spring is in that cutout. That way you'll know you have it seated properly. It's easier with these score lines; you can see the red through the perch. We know we have it aligned properly. We're ready to jack it back into place.
It's going to be difficult sometimes to get the sleeve to line up again with the bracket. Easily you may have to just slightly grind the corner of the sleeve down so it'll pop easier into place. There we go. You've got to make sure it's lined up perfectly or it won't go in. Using a screwdriver is a little bit easier than trying to get the bolt in there. Make sure you get it close before you try and install the bolt. If you have to you can use a small hammer to get it started. Now we let down our jack and our installation's finished.
Eibach's have always worked great on our Mustangs and I'm happy to report they work on our Focus as well. Eye roll is almost gone and diving while braking is much improved. The installation should take you around three hours. You'll be back on the road in no time. For more ST videos make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel.
