Fog Light Body Chrome 1965-1967
- Improves Lighting At Night
- Die Cast Metal Assembly
- Chrome Retaining Ring
- Direct-Fit Replacement
Chrome Fog Light Body for all 1965, 1966 and 1967 Mustangs.
Converting your Mustangs front end with a set of fog lights or maybe just replacing the originals? This Chrome Fog Light Body is exactly what you'll need for your 1965-1967 Mustang! Order yours today from CJ Pony Parts!
Fog Light Body Features and Benefits:
- Improved illumination during nighttime
- Individually sold for driver or passenger side
- Directly replaces factory original
- Die cast silver painted metal assembly
- Chrome retaining ring
- Correct pigtail wiring
- Easy installation
This beautiful direct-fit reproduction features a die cast silver painted metal assembly with a chrome retaining ring and correct pigtail wiring. The OEM-style body easily installs and will help provide more illumination during your night drives. Don't forget to pick up some great bulbs for your fog lights while you're at it!
Please Note: These are sold individually and your classic Mustang coupe, convertible or fastback will require two of them in order to complete both driver and passenger side. Also, bulbs are not included.
When distinguishing your classic pony with an iconic and faithful showroom presentation, every part matters. This Fog Light Body will add that extra flare of inspiration to your convertible, coupe or fastback’s interior presence.
Whether you’re looking for an exterior mirror, wheels and tires, headlights and taillights or a set of interior upholstery, CJ’s has what you need to complete your classic Mustang restoration with ease! CJ Pony Parts has all the parts you need to bring your early model Mustang build back to life--browse our huge selection of restoration parts for your pony today!
Order a Chrome Fog Light Body for your 1965, 1966 or 1967 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Intermediate skill is required for this installation.
In the case of the '65, you're going to reuse your original moldings, as well as your original horse and corral. For this installation, you'll need a 3/8 ratchet, 1/2 inch shallow, 14 millimeter shallow socket, 1/2 inch deep socket, 14 millimeter deep socket, 1/4 inch ratchet, 8 millimeter socket, 3/8 deep socket, at least a 6 inch extension, 14 millimeter wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, pick, bezel tool or a flat blade screwdriver, a small flat blade screwdriver, wire crimpers, wire cutters, wire strippers, razor blade, angle drill, standard drill, 1/2 inch drill bit, 5/16 drill bit, 1/8 inch drill bit, tape measure, marker, flashlight and safety glasses.
First step in the installation is to remove the original horse and corral, the original bars and, finally, the original grill. We're going to start with the two screws underneath the bars to get the bars off and finally the two screws in the center to remove the horse and corral. I'll start with the lower screws for the grill itself. Now we get the two upper screws, then the two on the ends. Now we're going to move the non-GT grill bars from our horse and corral since the horse and corral is the same. Ours is in decent shape, so we're going to reuse it. If you need a new horse and corral, it's the perfect time to replace it.
Now we're ready to start the assembly of the fog light kit. First thing we're going to do is install the bulbs and the fog light housings. To install the bulb, you've got to remove the screws that hold the front of the housing on. I'm going to pull the wires through a little bit so I can connect them to our bulb. Once you have them connected, you want to make sure this groove in the side of the light bulb goes into the slot here on the side so it sits flushed. I'll reinstall the front, then interlock the holes and reinstall the screws. Repeat the process with the other bulb. Now we're going to install our new fog log bar to our original horse and corral.
As with any electrical install, disconnect the battery. Now we're going to drill the radiator support for the holes for our fog light wiring. I'm going to come 7-1/4 inches over from the edge of the fender and then go 1-1/4 down. In our case, we already have a hole there, so we're just going to open in up a little bit more for our fog lights. Over on the passenger side the horn wire is actually going through the hole where the fog light wiring would go. If you look down here there's a little dimple. That's normally where the horn wiring would go. We're going to leave the horn harness where it is. We'll drill this hole out to run our fog light wire. I'm going to start with a small pilot hole. Now we open it up. Now we're going to install our new grill. It goes in the same way the old one came out, just slide it into place. You may have to bend it a little bit to get it to line up.
Start with the two outside screws. Don't tighten these down, just put them in hand tight to hold it in place. We'll have a little bit of adjustability on it but it'll get lined up. Once you get them all lined up then you can tighten them down. Now I'm going to take these two little unuts off your original grill, slide them on the new one. If you didn't notice when we took it apart, when we went to put it back together, support for our horse and corral sits far above our hood catch support here. As it turns out, this support's off a '66 Mustang. Here you can see the '65, how much higher the ends are. We're going to swap for the correct one before we continue the installation.
Now that we've installed the correct hood latch retainer, we can install our grill horse support. Now we'll install the grill to the horse support. You may have to tweak the grill a little bit to get these holes to line up properly. Now we're ready to reinstall our original horse and corral with our new bars. We're going to start by installing the bolt on the bottom, which holds the lower corral to our lower grill. Just want to give it a couple turns and now we're ready to install. Start by putting a bolt through this lower opening here. Slide that into place and tighten both screws up top here and then we can tighten the bolt.
We're going to finish mounting the fog light bars by attaching them to the grill. You may have to mess with this a little bit to get it to align up properly. Sometimes the holes may not line up just right with the grill itself. If you need to, you can use a drill and just clearance it a little bit. Now we're ready to install our fog light to our fog light bars. First thing we're going to do is fish our harness through. I'm going to put the stud through the bar. I'm going to put the washer and the nut on. We're going to fish the wires through the hole that we drilled earlier in the firewall and pull our will our ground element through. Move on to the other side.
This is the switch and the wiring for the fog lights, it's included in our kit. Since it's a little hard to see when it's installed in the car, before we install it, I'm going to go over the basis of where all the wiring goes to make it a little bit easier for you. This is your fog light feed harness. The grey wires will connect to the fog lights and provide power. The black wires connect to the fog lights and then go to ground. This grey harness will then go across your radiator support, down the fender apron and connect here at the firewall and this is going to be your under dash harness. You have a ground element here where it's going to go through the firewall, go into this connector here.
This one will go to your taillights. This connect here will go to your headlights. That way when your fog lights are on, your taillights turn on like their supposed to. Following it up and forward, connect to your fog light switch and this blue wire is going to go out to the circuit breaker, which is going to mount to your wiper mode or bracket. Then this blue wire will attach to a pre-existing wire under dash, which will power to the fog lights. Now we're going to install the grounds for the fog lights. This is the ground harness here, just going to plug it into the fog light here and then where you can find a decent metal ground you can use, we're going to us the bolt to hold the radiator to the radiator support.
I'm going to cut the edge of ring off since it's a little bit smaller than the bolt we're using. It's converted into a spade connector. Shooting little piece at the cameraman. I'll plug in the ground and start running our power wires. Now we're going to run the wire feeds to each individual fog light. The two wires leaving the female ends are going to go to the driver side. The single wire with the female end, it's going to go over to the passenger side. We're going to follow the factory headlight harness wiring between the radiator and the support to get it over to the passenger side. I'll plug it into the grey lead. Let's leave the wire there for now. We'll hide everything when we're finished.
Do the same thing on the driver side, this time with the two-wire lead. Now I'm going to fish the remaining wire back through our firewall. Again, we're going to follow the headlight harness back here. Start by moving the washer bay. Just run it right with the harness. Now we'll move on to the under dash harness. The under dash wiring harness is going to go through the firewall right below the headlight harness here. We're going to trim away a little bit of the firewall insulation and then drill a hole from the inside out. Now we'll plug in the male feed from our lights. We unplugged the headlight harness to make it easier to see, so we're going to plug that back in.
I'll plug the washer feed back in as well. To connect the plug so the taillights turn on when our fog lights are on, you have to pull the instrument cluster to make it easier to get to the wiring for our headlight switch. Once you have the cluster out, you've got to follow the wires coming off the headlight switch down towards the fuse box. It's going to be a black wire, it's going to have a quick male and female disconnect on it, the exact same style as the connector on our harness. You can see this one is going to look kind of like that but it's going to be black wire, not orange. If you find it, you can probably push it down below the dash.
That's the connector right there that we're looking for. We're going to separate these two leads and then we're going to install our harness between them. Plug it in line, and now we can move on to the breaker. Once you find it's wired and make sure you have the correct wire, disconnect the two from each other, reconnect your battery and turn your headlights on. If you have the wire, your taillights will be off. Now we're going to get power for the circuit breaker from the headlight switch. We want to find the black with the orange stripe wires, one of the thickest wires coming out of your headlight switch. We're going to use the supplied tap to get our power there.
Now we're ready to hook up our circuit breaker. The thinner blue with black stripe wire is the one we just hooked up to our headlight switch for 12-volt power. The thicker one is the one for our under dash harness which is going to power our fog lights. The thinner lead is going to go to the connection that says battery on the breaker. The thicker one going to the under dash harness will go to the auxiliary. Now we're ready to mount it under our dash. There are a couple different options on where to mount your circuit breaker. Most of the factory installations mount it to this screw located on the wiper motor bracket, so we're going to go with that choice. Anywhere else you can ground it to metal will work fine.
Now that our breaker's installed, we're ready to move on to the switch. Before we actually mount the switch to the car, we're going to hook everything up and test to make sure it works. Plug this switch into our under dash wiring and we'll reconnect the battery and go hit the switch. Once you check to make sure the fogs are working you also want to check your taillights to make sure they turned on as well. Now that we checked all our lights are working properly, we're ready to hide the wires and mount our switch.
There are two spots that mount the switch that are considered correct. Many early 65s had it mounted in this hole underneath the dash. Ours has an aftermarket switch or some sort there, but that is an acceptable place to mount if you don't want to drill. The other locations found on these cars are going to be right here on the curve. That's where we're going to mount our switch. We're obviously not worried about concord correctly on our weekend wrench project car. If you're trying to get in the exact spot, it's going to be 3-3/4 inches from the bottom curve of the dash up and 1-5/16 over. We're just going to get it in the general neighborhood. I'm going to start with a little pilot hole and I'll open it up. Fish the under dash harness up here.
We'll plug our switch in and put it down into place. Make sure you install it with on facing up. Install the bezel. Use a bezel tool to tighten it or a flat blade screwdriver will also work. Now I'll install the edge of the switch. If you have a switch that's sticking out a little bit too far you can actually put a few washers behind it and that'll bring you in a little but like we did here. That completes the actual installation of our fog light kit. Last step now is to put our cluster back on dash and then hide all of our wiring. Our fog light conversion looks great on the grill of our weekend wrench project car. Plus, the added light is going to be a safety benefit as well. Installation should take you around three hours total. You should be back on the road in no time. For more videos on our Weekend Wrench project car and other installation videos, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel.