Fuel Tank With Drain Plug Kit 1965-1968

CJ's Part Number: FTK5
MSRP: $156.91

Regular Price: $144.99

Special Price: $130.49

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FTK5 Play Fuel Tank With Drain Plug Kit 1965-1968 Video 1 Play Fuel Tank With Drain Plug Kit 1965-1968 Video 3

Product Description

Fuel Tank Kit with Drain Plug for 1965-1968 Mustangs.

With the price of gas there is no better time to replace your rusted out stock tank. This kit is a direct replacement for the stock fuel tank with the correct 16 gallon capacity. Coated to prevent rust and corrosion. Save time and money with this kit!

Kit Includes:
- Fuel Tank with Drain
- Fuel Sending Unit with Gasket
- Locking Ring
- Filler Pipe Hose
- Filler Pipe Gasket
- Fuel Tank Mounting Hardware

*Filer pipe is sold separately.

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Installation Instructions


Difficulty: Easy

Mustang Applications

This product will fit the following Ford Mustang years:

Product Reviews

Write a Review
Great deal and fit
Bought this on sale to replace one in a 66 coupe project. This wax a great fit and an easy install ! The resurrection had begun. Thank you CJ Pony Parts.
Caycepony December 16, 2014
Perfect fit
I am resurrecting a '67 race car. It had been sitting for over 30 years. The original tank had been modified by prior owner and I felt it was unsafe. I ordered this kit and it fit perfectly! I was happy that it came with 3/8 fittings for my thirsty 427 FE.
Really like the drain plug! Now I can drain 110 octane race fuel when driving car on street, and completely drain 97 octane fuel when I go racing. Almost as good as having two tanks! Great product and very easily installed!
Jeff November 23, 2014
Almost a five
Great price . Would have like to have the hose clamps that match the original included. the holes in the tank seemed to be a little off. Well packaged and fast delivery. Thanks cj. I won't be shopi anywhere else.
Rick November 15, 2014
Perfect fit
My '67 fastback is a former race car. Previous owner has butchered the fuel tank, trying to install a bigger fuel line, and it was rusty inside after sitting for 30 years. Ordering this tank kit saved me a lot of time and effort! The only thing I added was a strip of weather seal between the tank and the body of the car. Possibly the easiest part I replaced!
Jeff West September 30, 2014
1966 Mustang
CJ pony parts has the best reproduction parts on the market this fuel tank is awesome and fits perfect I won't buy parts any where else
Brad Mort August 2, 2014
65 Fastback
Fit perfect, everything worked flawlessly.
Barry July 23, 2014
Fuel Tank
Arrived in perfect shape. Everything lined up and install was smooth. Great product.
Gary July 3, 2014
Gas tank
Nice to install a new gas tank fit just like the old one. All the parts I bought fit just right
Frank June 23, 2014
great tank
I had never done a tank before...I used the video and it was really easy took me about 2 1/2 hours...but I had to run for fuel line and hose clamps and then gas...
mark fritz August 8, 2013
Great Tank Kit
This is a great tank kit and an outstanding price. Had almost everything you need for a complete tank replacement. The fuel sender unit even has a brass float instead of the cheap plastic ones that are some sender units have. The ONLY thing I wish it would have had as part of this kit is new set of hose clamps (HW208) to go with the new filler hose that also comes with the tank kit. Other than that it fits great, excellent quality, and the sender unit is very accurate as one of the other reviewers also mentioned.
Geno C. August 6, 2012
14 Results
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Product Video

By Bill Tumas: There's nothing worse than spending 60 bucks to fill up your tank, only to find gas dripping out from underneath your car. With the cost of fuel these days, there is no better time to replace that rusted, leaking tank. Today we're going to show you how to install a new tank using this '66 Mustang Convertible.

This is our standard fuel tank kit for the '65 through '68 Mustang. It includes the tank, sending unit with the correct brass float, mounting hardware, filler hose and the filler pipe gasket.

For this installation you will need a flat blade screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, hammer, 3/8-inch ratchet, 1/2-inch socket, 3/8-inch socket, 1/4-inch ratchet, 7/16-inch socket, 5/16-inch socket, short extension, wire cutters, pry bar, 3/8-inch open-end wrench, scraper, safety glasses and a lift or jack and jack stands.

As you can see, the tank in our '66 has a nice big dent in it. It's due for replacement. The first step is going to be to drain the fuel. There is a couple ways you can do this. Drain it either from your sending unit, or if the tank has a drain, you'll want to use that. The best way to drain it? Take your car for a drive. If it's not drivable, either one of these ways will work.

The last step before removing the fuel tank from above is to disconnect the sending unit. You're going to pull the sending unit wire off the stud and then you'll want to disconnect the hose. We have the original stock crimp-clamps, which are one-time only and so you'll want to cut that off. Keep your pan handy as you may still have a little fuel come out of it. Now, we are ready to move inside the trunk. After you drain the tank, you'll want to clear your trunk out and remove the bolts that are holding the tank in place. Now, we're going to loosen the two screws the hold the filler pipe seal to the tank and to the filler pipe.

Now, we're going to disconnect our filler pipe. To remove the filler pipe you have to take the gas cap off. There are four bolts in the front here and there is on the back that we have to get off first. You'll want to pull the filler hose off the tank by twisting the whole assembly. Twist the hose off the pipe and pull out your filler. You'll be reusing the filler tube with your new tank. We include a new hose and also a new gasket so you can throw both of those away. Now, we are ready to remove the tank from the car itself.

Even though the hardware is removed there is still some seal holding it in place. We're going to start with a pry bar and see if we can get it loose. If you have trouble getting it off with a pry bar, a jack underneath the car forcing it up will usually do the trick as well. We are going to be installing new sealant with the new tank and so we want to get the surface as clean as possible and scrape off the old excess sealant. Once you've finished cleaning the original sealant off the trunk you will probably have a couple areas that are bare metal. We recommend a coat of primer before you install the new tank. Once you're finished with the primer, it usually only takes about 5-10 minutes to set up and then we can get in to installing our tank. I will put some strip caulk around the outside edge before we install the new tank. This will replicate the OEM caulking. Make sure not to leave any gaps in the corners; you want to seal all the way around. Before the tank goes back in the car, you want to test your sending unit; whether it's the original or a new one, you will still need to test it before you put it on the car.

You will use your multimeter set on ohms to test your sending unit. You want to ground it anywhere on the chassis, push the positive to the stud. You should see somewhere between 70 and 80 ohms, which is empty. As the flow goes up, that number is going to decrease, getting roughly to 8-10 by the time the tank would be full. As you can see, our sending unit is working properly.

Once you have tested your sending unit and you know it's good, we are ready to install it. The first step is to install this ring. There is a groove that it goes in to. I will put the float in at an angle first and make sure that the stud is at the bottom and put the ring on. I get about _ turn by hand. I will use a hammer to push it on the rest of the way. If you are ever working with a sending unit that has fuel involved, you'll want to use a brass punch. Since everything is new here a flathead screwdriver and hammer will work fine. Now, we're ready to install our tank.

The tank is going to go in the same way the old one came out. Line up the holes and grab our new hardware. Right now, we're going to put the fuel filler hose on. It goes over the tank. Slide it down and put the clamp on, but we're not going to tighten it down just yet. Put another one over here. Now we will install the fuel filler pipe. The new gasket comes with it, so make sure that you put it on before you put the pipe in. Once you install the filler pipe, your hose plants in place and we will tighten them back down. Now, we will reinstall our gas cap. Line the gasket up with the holes. The last step is to connect the sending unit. Make sure that you grab a new hose clamp to replace the one we took off. Now, our installation is finished. Once you're finished with the install you'll want to put some fresh fuel in the tank and check everything for leaks before you take it for a test drive. Installation should only take you for about an hour so you'll be back on the road in no time.