ACCELATEC Lowering Spring Set Mustang 2015-2024

Today we're going to improve the handling, and the stance on our 2018 Mustang with a set of CJ Pony Parts lowering springs.

These CJ Pony Parts springs are going to provide excellent performance, and a much better stance without sacrificing ride equality. They're going to fit all 2018 Mustangs with the exception of the magnaride cars, and will also fit 2015-2017 V6 GT and EcoBoost. On the GT car you get about 1-1/2 inch in the front and an inch in the back, and slightly less with the EcoBoost.

The kits going to include all four springs, along with new bump stops, and new boots. For this installation, a lift and a pull jack, or a jack and jack stands, 3/8th ratchet, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 18mm socket, 1/2" ratchet, 24mm socket, 6" extension, torque wrench, 17mm wrench, clip removal tool, hammer and a spring compressor.

We're going to begin the installation by removing the wheels and tires. We're then going to go to the engine bay here and start with these three nuts. You're going to remove two of them and then loosen up the third.

Now we're down to the wheel well area, the first thing we're going to do is remove these little plastic clips for the ABS line. And we're going to go over here, put a wrench on the back, remove that nut, to remove our sway bar and link. With the sway bar off, the next step is to separate the strut from the spindle. Before we do that, though, we have to remove the brake caliper by removing this bolt down here and this bolt up here.

Once we remove the caliper, we're going to want to place it safely out of the way on the K member. With the caliper out of the way, now we can remove the strut from the spindle. What you're going to do is loosen these two nuts, take them out to the end of the bolts. The bolts are splined. What we're going to do is put those on the end, so we can hammer the bolt through without mushrooming the ends of them.

Then you can remove the nuts, and the bolts should be able to slide them through to remove them by hand. Now our strut is free, we just have to remove the nut we loosened up in the engine bay. You may want to hold to the strut and then loosen this nut, and you can remove it.

Now we have our strut assembly out of the car. We have to compress the springs so that we can remove it from our strut. To do that requires a spring compressor. Now you probably don't have one of these, they're actually not that expensive if you do want to pick one up and add it to your tool list, but if not you can rent one from most local auto parts stores. What we're going to do is compress this, remove the nut and then remove the spring.

With the spring off we're going to remove the original sleeve, and the original bump stop, and replace it with the new parts. To install the new bump stop with the new sleeve, just push the bump stop through and get it seated. Slide that down, now we're ready to install the spring. Now you shouldn't have to compress the spring as much as the other one to get the new one on, 'cause it is going to be a little bit lower.

All right, with the strut assembly put together with or CJ spring we can put it back up into place on the car. Put the nuts on just to hold it in place. We can connect it to the spindle. Now we can reconnect it down here. Since they're splined we gave them a small tap with a hammer just to get them seated. With the bolts seated, reinstall the nuts, and we'll tighten them down. Once the bolts are tight, we're going to torque them to 184 foot pounds.

With the strut and spindle now torqued together, we can reinstall the rotor and the brake caliper. Not a bad idea to put a little bit of Loctite on the brake caliper bolts. All right, so with the caliper back on as the last step, we're going to reinstall the sway bar and then push in the plastic clips for the ABS line. Now, we'll move up to the engine bay.

We're going to tighten down the strut nuts and then torque them to 46 foot pounds. Repeat the process on the other side, and we can move on to the rears.

Moving onto the rear springs. What we're going to do here is unbolt the shock from the body. Remove this bolt here to give us more play with the brake lines, then go underneath and lower the subframe.

Now that we're underneath we need to remove the shocks, so we can swap out our bump stops. We remove these two bolts down here. Now to remove the spring, we're going to have to unbolt the subframe and lower it down one side at a time. To do that there's two large subframe bolts. Before we get to those, we'll remove these two small bolts here attached to this bracket.

Making sure you have the subframe supported ahead of time with a jack or a pull jack, now we can remove the subframe bolts. I'm going to lower down the subframe, and remove our spring. All right, with the old spring out we're ready to install our new spring. You want to transfer over the upper isolator and then make sure it's seated properly in the lower control arm.

Once you have it turned and seated properly, use your pull jack or jack to lift the subframe back into place. When you put the subframe bolts in you want to definitely start them off by hand. The subframe shouldn't move, because you left the passenger side bolted down, but just make sure it lines up right before you try to tighten them down. We're going to tighten these up for now, and then go back and torque everything to 129 foot pound.

Before we install the shock, we have to swap out the bump stops. To do that you're going to pop the cap off the top, and then remove the nut that holds the bracket to the shock. Then you can pull the sleeve and the bump stop off. Now we can install the new bump stop. With the bump stop in place we're going to reinstall the original dust shield, put the bracket back on and we can install it back on our Mustang.

All right, you'll want to repeat the process on the other side. Reinstall your wheels and tires and your installation is finished.

The CJ Pony springs look killer on the 2015-2017, look awesome, as you can see, on the 2018 as well. The installation is going to be exactly same as the previous models. It's probably a two hour installation. Make sure you get an alignment when you're done. You'll be back on the road in no time.