J&L Oil Separator Company Oil Separator Kit 3.0 Front Side Clear Anodized Focus ST 2013-2018
Highlights
- Clear Anodized Finish
- Multi Stage Filter System
- Billet Aluminum Construction
- Holds 3Oz Of Fluid
J&L Oil Separator Company Clear Anodized Front Side 3.0 Oil Separator Kit for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 Focus STs.
If you're on the hunt for a new oil separator for your 2013-2018 Focus ST, you're in the right place! J&L Oil Separator Company makes this Clear Anodized Front Side 3.0 Oil Separator Kit and, when paired with their Rear Side 3.0 Oil Separator Kit, it helps protect and extend the life of your other engine performance upgrades!
Features & Benefits:
- Newly Redesigned Tank Holds 3 Oz. of Fluid
- Thick Billet Aluminum Construction with a Clear Anodized Finish
- Simple Installation onto the Front Side of Engine
- Multi-Stage Filter System With Fine Mesh Stainless Steel Screen
- Knurled Tank Base for Easy Disposal of Collected Oil
- O-Ring Included to Keep the Seal Tight and Prevent Leaks
- Protects and Extends Other Engine Performance Upgrades
This J&L Oil Separator Company 3021F-C Clear Anodized Front Side 3.0 Oil Separator Kit is made out of thick billet aluminum with a clear anodized finish, and it comes with a newly redesigned tank that holds up to 3 oz. of fluid! This oil separator also features a multi-stage filter system with a fine mesh stainless steel screen. This screen captures fine oil vapors and, when an adequate amount has been collected and becomes heavy enough, the oil drops into an aluminum honeycomb filter. After the drops collect and become even heavier, they fall to the bottom of the canister. Every 5,000 to 7,000 miles, you should empty this canister and dispose of the collected oil. This oil separator will keep those oil drops from getting into your intake.
A knurled tank base allows for easy disposal of the collected oil, while an O-ring keeps the seal tight to prevent leaks. J&L Oil Separator Co. designs and builds its products in the USA to be a direct-fit upgrade and a plug-and-play install.
JLT Performance has worked to expand plug-and-play applications within the automotive industry. With the same great products, JLT Performance formally introduces the J&L Oil Separator Company, specializing in oil separators.
Tech Tip: This kit is specific for the front side of the intake of a 2013-2018 Focus ST engine and should be used in combination with the rear side for optimal protection. Please see CJ Pony Parts # OILSEP73.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Related Categories: Ford Focus ST Parts, Focus ST Engine, Focus ST Oil Separators
Note: This item is not CARB (California Air Resource Board) exempt and is not legal for sale or use in the state of California.

Installation Difficulty

Novice skill is required for this installation.
Installation Videos
Video Transcript
Now on your Focus ST, there's actually two areas to install a separators. There's a front section and a rear section. Today, we're going to focus on the front and in the future we'll do a rear installation as well. Now this JLT Oil Separator is a 3.0, which holds 3 ounces of oil and is available in a clear anodized, shown here. It's also available in a black finish. This includes [inaudible 00:01:28] hoses and brackets for installation. Today we're going to show you how to do it using our 2014 Focus ST.
For this installation you'll need a 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 torque wrench, 10 millimeter socket, short extension, Phillips head screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, and a flashlight.
Now the front oil separator is a little more involved to install because the PCV fitting is going to be behind the intake manifold, so we have to remove it. Trust me, that sounds worse than it is. We'll get that in a minute, but the first step is to remove the intake cover. Simply pull up and put it aside. With the cover off, then the first step is to unbolt the manifold. What we're going to do, pop these clips off first, get this out of the way. There's 5 bolts, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, to remove the manifold. These bolts are not going to be tight at all. That is perfectly normal.
Okay, this is the factory PCV line and we're going to disconnect. Remove it from the intake. Simply squeeze this and kind of work it off. The other side is the PCV valve itself. This cover can be very difficult to get off but so can the hose. You either remove the PCV, try to carefully work the hose off. We need to reuse this fitting so you have to get this hose off here. Now this is going to be kind of a pain. Don't worry about damaging the hose. You sort of just have to work it off. Just throw those away. Now take the supplied hose and put that over this, then clamp it down. Now you're going to fish the hose down towards the fin shroud in front of the intake. Put that back on. Then the other hose with the smaller end, fish it through the same way, and connect to the PCV valve.
Before we put the manifold back together, mark one of the hoses so you remember which one's which. I'm going to mark the manifold side. This is our manifold connection and that's our block connection. Now we can reinstall the manifold. Just put all the bolts in by hand to start. All right, now starting on the inside center, working our way out, torque them to 14 foot pound. With the intake torqued down now we can mount the bracket. We can remove this bolt here on our hood hinge, hood latch I should say. Put that underneath then thread it back in.
Now what you'll want to do is take the line from the manifold side, which is what we taped up, put a little bit of lubrication at will on the fittings, and that goes to the J side. The line for the block goes to the T side. Now the last step of the installation is to route the oil separator over and screw it onto the bracket. Reinstall the intake cover and your installation is finished.
Once it's installed, the JLT Oil Separator looks like it could be a factory part. Now it suggests is every time you change your oil, that's the time to check the oil separator. I guarantee you're going to find some oil in it that otherwise would have gone through your engine. As far as the installation, make sure the engine is cold. It's a little tough to get in there, figure about an hour to an hour and a half, then you'll be back on the road in no time.