Roush Supercharger Kit Phase 1 670HP 5.0L 2015-2017

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  • Twin 60mm Throttle Body
  • 85mm Supercharger Pulley
  • 670 Horsepower Rated
  • Direct Fit
MSRP $7,621.99
You save $43.00

Roush 670 Horsepower Phase 1 Supercharger Kit for all 2015, 2016 and 2017 5.0L Mustangs.

Take your 2015-2017 5.0L Mustang from mild to wild with a Phase 1 Supercharger Kit from Roush! This supercharger system provides 670 horsepower courtesy of the all-new R2300 2.3L TVS supercharger which features revised inlet and outlet porting for increased volume and better efficiency allowing for more power.

The 2015-2017 Mustang supercharger kit from Roush (421823) is designed specifically for the 2015-2017 Mustang. The whole kit is made to make it easy for you to install your supercharger, and you’ll notice the boost in horsepower the moment you get back behind the driver’s seat. This kit also includes other odds and ends that’ll help you get the best possible performance out of your pony car.

The Roush supercharger kit includes a wide array of bolt-on parts that fit right on your stock engine without the need for any modifications. This includes the R2300 2.3L TVS supercharger and black intercooler, which is colored to match the rest of the components and your engine.

Roush also provides a high-pressure fuel rail, high-flow injectors, and bigger throttle bodies configured to work perfectly with your new supercharger.

Phase 1 Kit Includes:
- Roush/Ford Racing R2300 2.3L TVS Supercharger
- Black 85mm Supercharger Pulley
- Large Air-to-Water Intercooler System
- Oversized, Full-Face Low Temperature Heat Exchanger
- Degas Bottle
- High-Flow Rate Fuel Injectors
- Custom Aluminum Fuel Rail
- Formed Molded Hoses
- Twin 60mm Throttle Body with Matching Spacer
- Custom Cold Air Induction System
- Washable, High-Flow Dry Air Filter
- Heavy-Duty, First Sheave FEAD System
- Roush/Ford Racing Calibrated Powertrain Control Module
- All Necessary Mounting Hardware

This ROUSHcharger system is based off of the all-new R2300 2.3L supercharger which comes from the Twin Vortices line of superchargers. The Roush R2300 supercharger with a wrinkle black finish features Eaton's new Twin Vortices Series technology (TVS) rotating assembly that delivers more power and better fuel economy in a smaller package for outstanding performance and reliability. This unit is designed with four-lobe rotors that are twisted at 160 degrees along with high-flow inlet and outlet ports that greatly enhance thermal efficiency for enabling greater volumetric capacity at higher revolutions per minute.

Tech Tip: Not recommended for use with vehicles equipped with the adaptive cruise control option.

Please Note: This kit will physically fit any 2015-2017 5.0L Mustang, but RHD (Right-Hand Drive) vehicles will require the use of P/N: 422011 to properly complete installation. The included Roush Calibration will NOT work on any 2015-2017 5.0L Mustang outside of the US and Canada, so those vehicles will require custom tuning which is NOT Included). Custom tuning can be purchased through our program with Lund Racing and the nGauge Tuner, see P/N: NG4-V

*This supercharger kit (421823) is CARB approved for 2015-2017 GTs with manual and automatic transmissions. CARB number E.O.#D-418-27.

ATTENTION: Updated Operating System Requirements for the Roush Diagnostic Tool (RDT). The Technical Service Bulletin TSB 21-0802-AA has been issued by Roush. As of September 10, 2021, Windows 10 will be the ONLY operating system that will be supported by Roush Performance for the Roush Diagnostic Tool (RDT). Older operating systems, such as Windows 7 or earlier Windows operating systems (XP, Vista, etc.), will not be supported. All instances of RDT will need to be updated to the most current release. All previous versions of RDT will NOT be able to program or configure modules due to a software license time-out.

The updated minimum recommended PC Hardware Configuration will be:
- Processor minimum: 2.4 gigahertz (GHz) or greater Intel I5/I7 Dual Core
- Memory minimum: 4 gigabyte (GB) RAM or greater
- Windows 10
- Microsoft .NET Framework 4.0 or later

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

This item is 50-state legal (CARB E.O. Number D-418-27)

Installation Difficulty


Advanced skill is required for this installation.

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

Hi, I'm Bill from CJ Pony Parts. A lot of you have been asking for an update on my 2015 Mustang GT project car. Like a lot of you here in Pennsylvania, we're currently covered with ice and snow, which means I haven't been driven the car very much, which has given me plenty of time to stare at it in the garage and envision what I want to do next.

Ever since I got the car, my main goal has been something along the lines of an ultimate street car. I want a car that looks great, handles great, has excellent street manners, and best of all, I want horsepower. So far, as far as horsepower goes, I've added a Ford Racing exhaust system and a custom tune. While these basic bolt-ons definitely made a difference, they're not going to get me my horsepower, which is 600 to 700 horsepower. To do that, it's going to require a power adder. I've been doing a lot of research on what I wanted to do, decided to go with a Ford Racing Roush Phase 1 Supercharger Kit. It wouldn't be a CJ Pony Parts video if we didn't show you how to install it, so today we're going to show you how to do that using my 2015 Mustang GT.

Ford Racing teamed up with Roush to offer the supercharger kit for your 2015 Mustang GT with manual transmission that will take you from 435 horsepower all the way up to 627. The heart of the kit is the R2300 TVS Blower. The TVS is a twin-screw design, which will offer excellent low-end torque and horsepower, also gives expandability to put a smaller pulley on and add more horsepower down the road.

The supercharger kit replaces the intake manifold. Obviously, the supercharger, this lower section here, which is an intercooler. The intercooler, again, makes it a great for a street car because it’s going to keep your inlet temperatures down. It goes with a great relations between Roush and Ford Racing. The install in this kit is almost OEM quality. Everything looks and feels like genuine Ford parts and everything necessary is included for the installation, including the cold air kit, new coolant bottle, heat exchanger, new fuel injectors, new spark plugs, a new throttle body, and every piece of hardware necessary for installation on your 2015 Mustang GT.

The installation for the Roush supercharger is going to be quite involved. Roush suggests about 10 hours for installation. I would expect to take every bit about that because, like I said, there is a lot to do for this installation. The first step I would do is print out the instructions. Roush does not include instructions but has them on their website as a PDF file that you can download and print it out. Obviously, you can go off your laptop if you want. For me, this is a lot easier.

The first step of the installation is going to be disassembly. The first thing you're going to want to do before anything else, though, is remove your computer. The computer has to be re-flashed with a Roush tune to work properly with the supercharger. If you have a local dealer you work with or somebody with a proper flash tuner, you can do this yourself. If not, you'll have to send it out to Roush and they do charge you $100 to put the tune in your car, which is definitely very reasonable. The next step is going to be basic assembly and then modifications and then finally installation of the supercharger kit.

We're not going to do our standard tool list for this installation because of how many tools are actually involved with it. We suggest watching the video in its entirety to get an idea of what you're going to need to complete this installation at home.

The install begins, oddly enough, in the back seat of the car, and the very first thing you're going to do is disconnect the fuel pump module so we can get fuel pressure out of the system. The module is located behind the driver's side underneath the backseat cushion. The drive module is located right here. Push down on the top plug and disconnect. Once you have the module disconnected to get the fuel pressure out of the system, simply start the car and let it run until it stalls out and shuts off. Crank it a few more times to make sure the pressure is released and we can move on to the hood. It should stall out pretty quickly. Okay, and we should be good to go.

Now we can begin disassembly under the hood. Before we get too, there's a couple of things you want to keep in mind. One, it's not a bad idea to ask for some help. The supercharger assembly is quite heavy, lifting down the engine, help would definitely make it easier. The second is also a good-quality fender cover. We have a huge selection here at CJ’s, these gripper covers, do a great job of sticking to the fender so they don't slide around. They also protect your paint. Now we can disconnect our battery.

The computer is located here on the passenger side underneath your fuse box. To get to it, these little plastic connectors in the fuse box, simply push these in and I'll lift this up out of the way. Disconnect the main harnesses but push these gray connectors back. Better move the two bolts holding it to the bracket.

Once you have the computer out, you want to fill out the Roush warranty card, grab the voucher, put your name and the VIN on the computer itself, and ship it out to Roush. If you mail it to them overnight, they'll actually overnight it back to you so the whole process should only take two to three days.

We'll remove the eight push pins, then remove our radiator cover. Now you want to get the car off the ground or remove the wheels. First thing we'll do with the car off the ground is remove the splash shields. There's between 10 to 12 roughly plastic clips, remove all the clips from the inside here, then you can pull off the splash shield. Now we can remove the splash shield and push the edge in and fold it in half. Once the splash shields are off, the lower close-out is going to come off next. It's held in by two of the push pins here and a whole bunch of 7-millimeter bolts.

Once the cover's off, we can work on draining the cooling system. Start with the degas bottle. The petcock is located on the passenger side right here. If you notice there's a little drain below it. Grab some 3/8 hose put that up over the drain, and you want to put that down into a clean bucket of some sort. In most cases, the coolant in these cars are still going to be pretty new, there's no reason you can't reuse it as long as you put it into a clean container.

While the coolant is draining, we're going to remove the strut brace next. The strut brace actually will not be reused with the supercharger. You can pop the engine cover off. Another part, obviously, that will not be reused. Even though we're still in the disassembly phase, later we do have to cut the K-brace. Right now you do want to mark it. What you want to do is use the wiper cowl to draw your line. Go from that corner, follow this over, and that's where we'll cut later. To get the K-brace out, we have to remove the hardware underneath the wiper cowl. Remove these push pins located here to lift that up and disconnect.

Now we can remove the hardware to remove the K-brace. Now we can remove the actual factory cold air kit. We're not going to obviously use it with our supercharger. We'll start with these three fittings here then remove this clamp for the factory air tube. These you simply push in and disconnect.

Now pull the red slot out underneath to disconnect the mass air meter plug. Don't forget the little plastic clip on the air box itself. The air box is held to the inner fender by this bolt right here. Last step for the air box, we're going to disconnect at the throttle body. Now the whole air box comes out as one assembly.

To remove the rest of the sound symposer tube is actually a little bit tricky. There's a 10-millimeter nut on the firewall. You have to reach in from the front of the engine from underneath and get a small wrench in there and you can remove it. Once the nut's off, we can remove the symposer, this little plastic clip here. Just pop that off. There's another one back here. Going to remove our JLT oil separator from the passenger side, we pull the break tabs and pop that up. The driver's side PCV, again, just turn it until you see the gray clip. Pull that off, as well.

Now we're going to start making some disconnections over towards the throttle body area. You start with the brake aspirator, just push in here, going to separate those two parts there. Now the throttle body, pull that red tab out. Like that, push it aside. Then the harness from the canister purge up here, pop that plug aside. Try to keep the harness up on top. You obviously will need it later. Then the connector here, this green connector, pop this little green connector back with the screwdriver. Like that, then remove the whole tube, so remove this here. Going to pop it off the cam cover. Disconnect here and then finally disconnect to the booster. It's the same kind of green connector to the throttle body.

Now we'll disconnect the fuel hose from the factory fuel rails. Let me grab a rag of some sort because even though we did purge the fuel system earlier, you still will probably get a little splash of fuel left in here. Push up on the blue tabs, squeeze together, then disconnect. Once the fuel line is disconnected, remove one of the brake booster hose. Connects here to your throttle body to release this clamp here, these two hold the intake manifold, and finally this clamp back here at the booster.

Once the hose is off, you also want to remove the check valve. Next, the heater hoses and the fuel rail covers themselves are going to come off. Once the covers are off, we'll remove the heater hoses. We'll simply squeeze these two white clips together and move straight up. Now disconnect from the firewall to remove both hoses. Now remove the hoses from the degas bottle to the engine. Now back to the engine side, we'll start removing the injectors by removing the four bolts that hold the fuel rails down. Disconnect each injector, push it in a little plug, we'll pop the harness off.

Before we can work on the manifold, want to make sure you just pull this line off this retainer here or it'll get stuck when you pull the manifold off. Intake manifold is held to the engine by three bolts per side. Remember, they actually will not come off, just get them all the way out.

The intake manifold is now ready to come out. This is one of those parts where having an extra set of hands will make your life a lot easier. Once you get the intake out, the ‘15 has a charge motion plate, you have to actually get all four plugs for the plate, the two push pins, and the harness all disconnected behind the intake manifold as you're lifting it out. Like I said, an extra set of hands will definitely make this part easier. There we go. Lift her up.

With the intake off, I can give you a better idea of where your connections are going to be. There's two plugs here, both have a slide-down red retainers that you squeeze to pop them off, the two plugs up here. These you're just going to squeeze to remove. This harness here, you can either cut it like we did to make it easier or if you have a tool you can get in there and just pop that plastic piece off to remove it.

I want to put some tape over the intake portions to protect to make sure nothing goes down in there while we're working on the engine. Now we're going to remove our degas bottle. Start by removing the clamp for the vent, then the clamp at the engine. Once the degas bottle is out of the way, remove the upper radiator hose. There will still be some coolant in here so you want to grab a rag, remove the clamp here, and push down on the spring or move it on this side.

I'm going to release pressure on the tension now to remove our bell. Electric fan is going to come out next. Start by disconnecting the harness over here. There's one bolt on each side holding it on. Going to remove the water pump bolts and remove the pulley. Since we're not going to be reusing it, we can simply cut and remove the belt for the A/C compressor. We're going to unclip the passenger side wiring harness from the engine here and just push it aside. Now we're going to disconnect the coolant here that goes down to our thermostat, unbolt the thermostat from the engine and push it aside.

Now we're going to remove the water pump itself. There's going to be some coolant coming out of that part. Now let's take some clean towels into the cavity for the water pump. What you want to do now is pretty much cap off anything that's open. The thermostat, heater hose open in here, thermostat, the radiator, the heater hoses at the heater core, the firewall, just cap off everywhere you don't want something to get that doesn't belong there.

Once everything is capped off that actually finishes our disassembly stage. We're done taking it apart and we're going to modify some of the factory components before we begin the installation. The first thing we're going to modify is the brake booster aspirator hose assembly. What we want to do is grab that assembly as well as the check valve we removed. First thing we're going to do is separate this end hose here from the metal by releasing this clamp. Now we're going to grab the hardware kit for fitting that, we need the instruction is going to say hardware kit ADGH, the letter is actually right there. It's 1315-TVS hardware kit D is what that stands for.

We're going to use the half H, the three reducer here, put that into the end of the hose that we just removed that has the double clamp on it. Clamp back to the end, reconnect. Now we're going to go to the other end of this hose. We're going to cut one inch off the end. Now we'll go back to the other assembly here, carefully remove this foam sleeve, roll it back with your fingers. Once that's solved, we're going to remove the split loom here, as well. Put that aside, and we're going to release this clamp.

You're going to remove the split loom from this curved tube here next. Then we're going to cut that off. Then we're going to go back to hardware D, grab this rubber plug and put it over where we just cut. Now we'll go to this larger curved hose here. Start by removing the split loom. What we're going to do is loosen this clamp and take the hose and basically flip it over 180 degrees. On the hose we just flipped over here, you're going to follow the bend until it gets straight, then we're going to go up two inches, and then we're going to cut this off. Once we cut this hose off, you'll want to remove the clamp. We're going to modify this and use it again. Going to cut the clamp down. If you're left with a sharp edge, you want to file it down and make sure it doesn't cut the hose.

Once cut, you want to reinstall it. Let's leave it right on the end. There we're going to move on to this hose. Again, we're going to take two inches off of it. Then you grab the check valve remover earlier, put it in the hose that we just cut, and then slide the clamp up and over. Now on the other side of the hose with the plastic fitting right where the bend is here, 3/4 of an inch down, then we're going to cut that. We're finished modifying this line, just going to reinstall the sleeve we removed earlier. This means it will still be plenty sticky. There you go. There's our finished line ready to be installed.

Now you're going to grab the canister purge line that has the green fittings on both ends. We actually don't need anything from the line but the fittings. What you want to do is slide down the split loom on both pieces and then carefully remove these. Then you grab the 36-inch 3/8 rubber hose included with the kit and the sleeve from hardware kit D, wrap the sleeve around the hose. Then we'll pull out the sleeve, grab some of the supplied clamps, again, from hardware kit D, put that over. Install the fittings we just removed from the factory hose. Do the same on the other side.

The next modification is going to be for the K brace. Remember earlier when we marked it on the wiper cowl, now we're going to cut that off. This metal is pretty thick. Cutting wheel is probably going to be your best bet. You want to put it in a vice and hold on to it and make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Like I said, a cutting wheel and a sawzall will work if you have access to a plasma cutter like we do, it's definitely the easiest way to do it. Put a little bit of paint over the edge where we just cut to protect it.

We have to make sure modifications to the factory shroud to mount the new degas bottle for the cooler kit. What you want to do is take the supplied template, this lines up with the back edge here, and this part over here fits into the curve. Get it where it goes. One hole here. One here, and we're going to mark the corner of these rectangles. Going to grab my marker, just mark the holes to make them a little easier to see when cutting. What we're going to do is drill these two holes out there, then we're going to drill a center hole for each of the squares, and use a Dremel to open them up. What I'll do now is grab the new coolant bottle, it's a little tab that goes into the opening there, make sure it fits flush, all the holes line up, and we can put it aside for now.

Now we're at the part of the installation that's honestly going to be a little bit scary. What you have to do is you have to grind down the timing cover and also grind down the intake valley to make sure everything clears properly. We're going to get closer in to show you exactly where you need to cut and how much material to take off.

What you're going to do is start with this one here, you're going to grind this off and grind it down so it's even on the hood of these ribs right here. You're going to move up to this one here, do the exact same thing, grind it flat, equal with these ribs. This one here is a little trickier. What you're going to do, pretty much draw a line following the shape of the timing cover. You're going to cut this in half and then cut a chunk of it out, roughly 20 millimeters is a piece you're going to cut out there. The last modification is going to be inside of the intake valley. The last one is this boss here in the intake valley. What we're going to do here basically cut it in half at an angle downward and smooth it out until the intercooler clears.

Before we get started, what you want to do is cover as much as possible. When you're grinding aluminum like this, it's going to make a mess, it's going to get everywhere. Make sure the engine is covered, any holes that lead into the engine is covered before you start grinding. Once we got it done, we're going to measure it. 19.98 millimeters is perfect. Now we're going to the boss and the intake valley. We're going to put the intercooler on to test fit just to make sure we're grinding that boss down, we had enough clearance. We're a little bit tight so we're going to take a little bit extra off. Now that the grinding is all finished, we're going to start working on the wiring to install our supercharger. The first harness we got to modify, this is one here, which attaches to the throttle body, which is your TPS.

We start by removing this insert here to get to the pins themselves. We get at this corner here, just flip it outward. Now we have to remove actually each of the individual pins, we're going to move them over to a new plug and harness for the supercharger. To do this, they do make a deep pinning tool, which will make your life easy. If not, a tiny screwdriver like a glass for your glasses, a jeweler's screwdriver, or something like a paperclip. Basically you get on top of the wire in the very back there's a little plastic clip. You want to get underneath that clip and lift it up, and you can pull the wire out from the back.

Here you can see the original TPS plug in the new one. The center section is pretty much the same and the wire's going to transfer over. The reason we're changing this is because we're moving the throttle body so we need to extend it by switching to this plug, it makes it a plug-and-play extension. Same as before, use a small pick at the edge here, pop the center clip out.

If you look at the back of the new plug, you'll see the pin positions are marked one through six. The instructions are very clear on which color goes into which pin position.

The wire only fits in one way so if it goes in if it's tight, just flip it over until you get it in the right direction. It'll pop into place.

Make sure all the wires are snug and we'll reinstall the cap. Now we're going to plug the extension harness into the harness we just made. Make sure it clicks into place. I'm just going to fish it back with this main harness and you're going to zip tie it in place.

Next we're going to modify the purge valve wiring harness. Same process, pop off the center piece and de-pin. Now we'll grab the new empty plug that's included with the wiring, carefully pop up this white insert, now we'll get the wires we just removed and install them in this plug. Again, you've got pin position 1 and pin position 2. The instructions tell you which wire goes where.

Now we'll connect to the new extension. Once it connect, double check your colors are the same, white and white and green with green. If you have them reversed, you put the pins in the wrong place on this plug here. Just like the other one, we're going to fish it towards the back and we're going to zip tie it on. Now you'll grab these two sensors from your wiring harness kit. The one with the wire attached to it, you can attach to your IMRC sensor wire that's plugged into your passenger side. This one is going to go on the driver's side.

Plug that in, just leave the wire laying over the cylinder head on this side. This gets plugged in to the other side, the driver's side. While we have the harness here, we're going to remove this ground strap. Later in the installation, we do have to open this up for the new bracket but for now we're just going to remove it and get it out of the way.

Now we're going to start wiring for the intercooler pump for our supercharger kit. The relay and the fuse here we're going to mount underneath your fuse box. This connector here is going to fished down by a water bottle for the actual intercooler pump itself. These two connectors go to the back of the engine on top of the transmission back where our CMCV wiring is, power can go to our fuse box, and the grounds go to a factory ground on the strut tower.

Release the tabs here, put our fuse box up. This hole here is where the relay and the fuse are going to mount. The kit includes hardware for the bolt group for the front but not on the back.

We'll just lay the power and ground over roughly where they're going to go, and this is going to follow the engine harness back. Now we're going to take the harness that we fished back behind the engine and disconnect the radio capacitor found on the back of the driver's side cylinder. Disconnect this plug, this is going to plug inline with it. Now we’ll open up the fuse box and work on the power and ground connections. The power, we're going to connect right here. The ground we're going to use this outboard factory ground right here. The actual intercooler wire itself, make sure it's fished in front of our washer bottle. We're going to tuck it down out of the way for now.

Now we'll go down to the valley of the engine. We're going to modify the wiring harness here for our knock sensors. Easy thing to do is to first disconnect them. Basically these have to be able to be spread out wider. We're going to start by removing the tape, get these little L-brackets out of the way. Now we're going to cut the split loom carefully with the wire, cut them this area so we can pull them a little further apart. What you want to do is either reuse the split loom or put tape over these once you have them wide enough.

What we'll do is we'll plug them back in. Loosen them, push them all the way to the outside, pretty much as far as they'll go so they're touching. Now we're going to start the spark plug installation by popping off the coil covers. Pop these red tabs up, disconnect each of the coils. Now use an 8-millimeter socket to remove the coil looms themselves. Do these all at once, one at a time, it really doesn't matter. Grab our spark plug socket. You will need an extension for this because it's pretty far down in there. Once you get it loose, you can actually just slide the coil back in, now let it grip the plug and remove it. The plugs come pre-gapped to 0.9 millimeters. Still want to check them, though, before you put them in. Now we're going to reinstall our coil. I'm going to repeat the process with the other seven plugs.

Now we're finally at the best part, the actual installation. Before we get into it too far, we can do some sub-assemblies. There's a few parts we have to add to the existing pieces before they can be installed. I'm going to start with the heat exchanger by installing the grommets that are including for mounting. Put the grommet down into the mounting bracket hole. I have to work it in, is it going to be a tight fit. You have it seated, grab on the metal sleeves and slide it down.

Now you want to grab the included PCV hose and the supercharger kit. What we're going to do is remove the rubber hose from the plastic by removing this fitting right here. Going to release the clamp on the other side of the hose here, put it on the back of our intercooler assembly. You want to grab your stock intake and take the purge valve off and we're going to move that over to our supercharger.

Then we're going to install the valve on the back of our supercharger, work into place, grab the hardware provided in the kit, cannot reuse the factory. I'm going to take the hose of the boost actuator over here. I'm going to grab the booster aspirator hose. This is actually one of the ones we modified earlier. This is going to right on this fitting here and then we'll tighten the clamp install arm. Now we'll fit the supplied vacuum line to the bypass. Actually, the reference line will be connected later when it's all in the car. Push that on there, and then if you haven't already, install the emblem on the supercharger.

Now we're going to start prepping our fuel rail by installing our Ford Racing fuel injectors. I'm going to grab these clips here. If you look at the injector, you'll see there's two thin slots right there. You're going to take the clip, push in the slot until it locks in place, make sure the plug is facing out, lock it into place. Now the injectors are done, we're going to move on to getting our airbox ready. I'm going to grab the front duct here that goes out past your radiator and install that into the new air box. Pop it like that.

The mass air meter is going to mount right here. You're going to grab the provided J-clips, basically slide them over these openings. Now the meter goes through from the inside. Line it up with the holes and install the bolts.

Now we're going to install the air filter to the mass air meter. Remove the mass air sensor from the factory housing, we're going to transfer it over to our new Roush air box. Sensors going to install using the original screws. No reason to over-tighten. You just get them snug. Make sure the meter's tight now you can move on the to the lid.

We're going to steal a few more parts off our factory air box. We need this grommet with the sleeve, this grommet here, and this rubber insert on the bottom. Now we'll install these parts on our new air box. That just sits there. We'll finish the subassemblies in time for actually installation of supercharger kit. Fortunately, step is probably the most boring part of the install, it's the sound leak tube plug off. It's hard to see, you have to sneak your hand down in there where the sound tube came off the firewall, you put this in place.

We're going to move the tape from our cylinder heads and prepare to install the intercooler. Make sure all the plugs and everything is out of the way and that the surface is nice and clean. I'll place the intercooler, make sure there's not any wires trapped underneath it. There we go. Make sure it sits properly. If it's not sitting flush, you may not have ground everything down. You may have to pull it back out and check it. Everything is in place and now we're good to go.

This is the ground wire removed earlier that has to actually be fished back to the front point. The intake is going to be grounded there. What we want to do first, cut this tab off then we're going to trim this harness, trim the cover back on this harness, we can move it further back.

We don’t got to tighten this down just yet, but just get it started.

I'll put the rest of these bolts in, get them started by hand. Now we're going to torque these down to 8 to 12 Newton matters. We need a quarter-inch torque wrench to do this. A specific sequence. We're going to start with the middle ones then move to the front, and then the back. Now we're going to plug in the ACT sensor. I'm going to zip tie that over here. Now we'll install the injectors, put a little assembly lube on each of the injector O-rings to make them go on a little bit easier. Fuel rails are in place, we'll install the original hardware, and we're going to tighten back the front starting with the driver's side.

Now we'll plug in the injectors. Now the best part. Let's put the supercharger in place. Line it up on the two dowels and it will sit nice and tight. We'll install the bolts. There will be 10 total. We're going to tighten these to 25 Newton meters, and again, there's a specific pattern starting in the middle going back and forth and working your way outward.

Now the supercharger is tightened down, you can install the pulley. Put a dab of blue Loctite on each bolt. Now we're going to hold the pulley and torque then to between 8 and 12 Newton meters. Now we'll create the brake aspirator hose that we modified earlier. This here is obviously going to go to the booster itself. This line here is connected to this one, it's coming from the back of the supercharger and then this one will go into our cold air intake.

Now we're going to get the plenum ready to go on to the car. There's two gaskets that have been installed. The black gasket goes between the plenum and the supercharger and the orange gasket goes between the plenum and the throttle body. Put the plenum on the supercharger. Now we'll make sure all the cables for our throttle body clear and we'll move over the fuel rail and connect that. Now we can bolt on our throttle body. We'll plug in the connectors. Now I'll bring the purge line back over behind the supercharger, plug that in over here.

Now we're going to fish the evaporative purge line down to the factory plug and then fish it behind the supercharger and connect it over on the passenger side. Going to pull the rag now and reinstall our water pump. We're going to install three of the bolts. This one here, we're going to leave out for now. We're going to start running the heater hoses now. We're going to start that by removing this top bolt right here. One of the brackets that holds the heater house, it's going to go behind it. We're going to bring this under the supercharger.

We'll fish this back, connect to the lower port. Now we'll install the factory hose over on the passenger side. Now we'll connect the passenger side PCB hose. Now we're going to move on to the front dress section. Before we do that, there are four bolts and one stud that has to be removed for our new bracket. One, two, three, then down here next to the crank, four, five over there.

Now we're going to reconnect our thermostat housing. Now we're going to install one of the Roush drive brackets. The rest of the brackets we're going to install using the Roush-supplied hardware. We're going to get everything snug first and then we'll torque them down. These all torqued to 25 Newton meters. This will install the idlers on the bracket. We'll torque these at 25, as well. We're going to grab the supplied belt, just going to loosely put it roughly where it's going to go. Now we're going to put the tensioner bracket down into place. I'll torque these down again, 25 Newton meters.

Now we're going to put the belt on the supercharger. What you want to do first is put all the slack towards the supercharger itself them make sure the belt is seated on the crank, compressor, and everywhere else it's got to go properly. Once we let off the tensioner again, double check, make sure we're seated there, seated properly here, seated there, there, and there. Okay. We're good. The belt's seated and now we're going to reinstall the water pump pulley. Just get them snug. We'll actually torque them down once the belt's reinstalled. Now we can reinstall the stock belt. Again, make sure your belt is seated everywhere it's supposed to be.

The belt on, now we can torque the water pump bolts. Now we're going to start the heat exchanger installation by removing both outboard bolts for the factory radiator. Now we'll put the heat exchanger up into place. And it’s going to install using the bolts we've just removed.

I'll install the provided J-clips on both ends of the front frame rails, a little bit of a tight fit, push them towards the center, we can mount the lower part of our heat exchanger. The top one's going to install with the nut and bolt that's provided. The bottom screws in the J-clip we just installed. Now we're going to connect the outlet line from our heat exchanger up to our intercooler. We can move this rubber flap aside, feed it through, and we're going to have to come back and trim it.

Now we're going to trim the rubber flap so it closes properly. Once the hose is routed, secure the clamp on the intercooler side, as well as the on the heat exchanger. The bracket for the intercooler pump is going to mount right here on the bottom of the frame rail. What you want to do is put the bracket up and we're going to mark the holes and drill them out. Now we're going to assemble the intercooler pump bracket, pump on there. Put the bracket up in place and adjust if necessary to clear everything. It's a tight fit. Now we're going to install the hose from the pump over to the inlet on this side of the heat exchanger. I'm going to plug in the intercooler pump and we'll tie up the harness out of the way. Now we'll continue work on the cooling system by reinstalling our electric fan.

Install the J-clips on the fan shroud, now we can get the degas bottle. Going to mount the intercooler to the degas bottle before we install it. Now we'd connect the line from the degas bottle to the intercooler pump itself. I have a final step, the degas bottle to the intercooler. I'll reconnect the upper hose to the thermostat housing. We're going to reinstall the original degas bottle.

I'm going to put the air box in. I'll reinstall the factory bolt fender. We'll disconnect the clips for the mass air sensor wire so it reaches over to the new sensor. Put that in. Now we're going to install the intake tube, connect the PCV line, and the line for the brake booster, and then the vacuum index line.

That concludes the actual installation of our Roush supercharger kit. Now we're going to reinstall the computer, the K-brace, the splash shield, the underbelly pan, and then we're going to fill it with fluid.

Before we put the computer in and start it up, don't forget to plug back in the fuel pump module. The computer goes in the same way it came out, just pull the fuse box aside. Come from the front, get that into place. Push the harnesses in and grab the gray tabs, lock them down. We'll turn on the key before we fire it up to make sure the intercooler pump system is working properly. You can hear the pump, you can actually see the fluid working through here, we're going to make sure the level is good then we're going to fire it up.

You know the system is working properly when you can see coolant coming back into the tank. Finally the moment of truth. Let's fire it up.

Without a doubt, the Ford Racing Roush supercharger is our largest installation to date. While the install is not terribly difficult, it's going to be very time-consuming so definitely give yourself the better part of a weekend for the installation, plus give Roush a few days to get your computer back to you. Like I said before, unfortunately there's a lot of snow and ice out here so no test drives yet, but I guarantee in a future video we'll give you some drives with this, some in-car video, as well as, some dyno numbers which is what we know is what you're really looking to see. For the best selection of 2015 Mustang install videos, like this, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel and check out for the best selection of 2015 Mustang parts.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

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