Roush Supercharger Kit Phase 1 700HP GT 2018-2021



  • Certified To 700HP 610Lb-Ft
  • 2.65L Roots-Type Supercharger
  • 170 Degrees Rotor Twist
  • Made In The USA
MSRP $7,904.00
You save $304.01

Roush 700 Horsepower Phase 1 Supercharger Kit for 2018, 2019, 2020 and 2021 GT Mustangs.

A great partnership between Roush and Ford Performance continues with this new state-of-the-art supercharger kit for the 2018-2021 Mustang GT. The Roush R2650 TVS Phase 1 Supercharger will boost performance to an astounding 700 horsepower and 610 lb-ft of torque at 12psi when paired with 91 octane fuel and the included Roush calibration all while carrying a CARB approval and legal in all 50 States!

Unlike other forms of forced induction, the Roush R2650 TVS Supercharger (P/N: 422090) provides instant throttle response and can generate increased power through the entire RPM range. The Roush 2.65L Phase 1 Supercharger is a roots-type positive displacement supercharger that features Eaton's new twin four-lobe rotors that are twisted 170-degrees. The newly-designed air inlet and outlet ports provides a long list of benefits including enhanced thermal efficiency, higher volumetric capacity, higher operating speeds, a smoother, more efficient flow of air into the engine and overall improved noise and vibration characteristics.

Features and Benefits:
- Fits 2018-2021 5.0L V8 Mustang GT
- Compatible with both Manual and Automatic Transmission Models
- Compatible with the Safe and Smart/Adaptive Cruise Control Package
- Roush/Ford Performance TVS R2650 Phase 1 Supercharger System
- Produces 700 Horsepower and 610 lb-ft of Torque
- Eaton R2650 Rotating Assembly
- High-Flowing Front Inlet and Outlet Ports
- Greatly Enhanced Thermal and Volumetric Efficiency
- Supercharger Rotors Feature 170 Degrees of Twist
- New 2650 Rotor Geometry Provides Better Sealing with Optimized Length-Over-Depth Ratio
- Increased Durability with Bigger Bearings and Thicker Timing Gears
- Pressure Relief Ports in Bearing Plate for Reduced Input Power
- All-Aluminum, High-Efficiency Intercooler and Full-Face Radiator
- High-Capacity Degas Bottle and Separate Reservoir Provides Substantial Cooling Capacity
- Fuel Charging Assembly with Upper and Lower Aluminum Intake Manifolds
- High-Flow Induction System with Larger Throttle Body Provides Increased Air Flow
- Heavy-duty, First Sheave FEAD System Reduces Stress on the Engine
- High performance, Ultra-Reliable Engine Calibration Included (Can be downloaded using Roush RDT software)
- Includes All Necessary Installation Hardware

*This kit is NOT compatible with the Mach 1 or BULLITT edition Mustangs. This Kit and the included Roush Calibration are NOT compatible with any 2018-2021 5.0L Mustang meant for distribution outside of North America.

Tech Tips:
- 5W50 oil is required after installation.
- The use of fuel additives (i.e. octane boosters) is NOT recommended.
- Premium fuel (91 octane or higher) is required to prevent “spark-knock” or detonation under certain operating conditions.
- Operating your engine without the Roush PCM recalibration will result in engine damage or failure and will void your warranty.
- See P/N: 422270 for the Roush Max Cooling Upgrade Kit for 2018-2021 GT Mustangs Equipped with a Roush Supercharger (NOT Included).

*A 3-year/36,000-mile Limited Powertrain Warranty is included but ONLY when properly installed by a Ford dealer or an Automotive Service Excellence-certified technician.

ATTENTION: Updated Operating System Requirements for the Roush Diagnostic Tool (RDT). The Technical Service Bulletin TSB 21-0802-AA has been issued by Roush. As of September 10, 2021, Windows 10 will be the ONLY operating system that will be supported by Roush Performance for the Roush Diagnostic Tool (RDT). Older operating systems, such as Windows 7 or earlier Windows operating systems (XP, Vista, etc.), will not be supported. All instances of RDT will need to be updated to the most current release. All previous versions of RDT will NOT be able to program or configure modules due to a software license time-out.

The updated minimum recommended PC Hardware Configuration will be:
- Processor minimum: 2.4 gigahertz (GHz) or greater Intel I5/I7 Dual Core
- Memory minimum: 4 gigabyte (GB) RAM or greater
- Windows 10
- Microsoft .NET Framework 4.0 or later

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

This item is 50-state legal (CARB E.O. Number D-418-34)

Installation Difficulty


Advanced skill is required for this installation.

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

Today, we're going to take the horsepower and torque of my 2018 Mustang GT to a whole new level with help from Roush Performance. I love my 2018 Mustang, but if there's one thing I miss about my 15, it's the raw power of the Roush supercharger. Well, today we're going to take care of that problem and then some by installing this Roush supercharger kit on my 2018 Mustang GT.

This supercharger kit from Roush Performance is going to fit your 2018 Mustang GT with either an automatic or manual transmission. As always, Roush includes everything necessary for an OEM style installation. It's going to take your Mustang GT from 460 horsepower all the way to 700, and from 420 pound-feet of torque all the way to 610. The heart of the supercharger kit is the new TVS 2650R, which is much larger than the previous supercharger. Makes that 700 easily with a lot of room left and only 12 pounds of boost. As always, Roush provides everything necessary for an installation including the supercharger itself, intake, injectors, cold air kit, and everything necessary for a high end installation.

This installation can be accomplished with a good set of hand tools. The only specialty tools you're going to need are when you modify the timing cover, you'll need something to grind down the metal. You'll also need an m8x1.25 tap and either a 17/64 or 6.9 millimeter drill bit.

The installation of the Roush supercharger is a very labor intensive and time consuming installation. You want to make sure you give yourself, I would say, the better part of a weekend if you've never done one before before you tackle this job. Also, make sure you print out the instructions, read through the entire instructions, and make sure you have all the tools you need, and also watch this video to get an idea of how everything is going to go together.

Now, before we begin the installation, you've got to determine how you're going to tune the car when you're finished. Now, in our case we have the Roush software, so we're going to flash it right here in the studio, but if you don't, the first step's going to be remove this computer and then ship it out to Roush. They can tune it for you. Regardless of how you're going to tune, the installation begins right here at the fusebox. Now, what you're going to do is go in here, and you want to either fuse 48 or 49. That is going to kill power to your fuel pump. You're going to start the car up and then let it run until it dies. What that does is actually drains pressure from the fuel system, since we're do have to take it apart. At which point, like I said in our case, we're flashing ourselves. We can move onto the installation. If not, you're going to pull the fusebox out and then remove your computer and send it out to Roush.

Now, like I said, with the fuse out, you're going to start the engine and then let it run until it shuts off on its own. Only take a couple seconds. Crank it once or twice more just to make sure there's no fuel left in it, and we're ready to go.

There's going to be three phases to the installation of the Roush supercharger. The first step is going to be disassembly, and then modification, and then finally installation. Now, the first step in disassembly is going to be disconnect the battery, and then move in underneath the car. Now, like I said, the next step's going to be underneath the car, but it's going to involve draining the coolant. While we're up here, I'm just going to pop the cap off the degas bottle, and now move under the car.

Now that we're under the car, we have to remove this closeout panel. There's going to be bolts along the back here, a bunch of clips, and bolts all along the front. With the cover off, you want to grab a clean pan, and then we're going to open up the petcock and drain the radiator.

Okay, with the coolant drained, we're back up in the engine bay. Now we'll start the disassembly up here. If you have a strut tower brace, it will not clear the blower, so that has to go away, then the intake cover, and the cold air kit.

We're going to move forward now in removing our factory intake by disconnecting all the brake aspirator, the purge valve, basically all the lines in the throttle body area including the throttle body harness. Okay, now over here on the driver side. Take this and pop this off as well. You're going to pop off this PCV hose, or if you had an oil separator it'd be the piece that would take its place. You will not reuse this.

When you go over to the passenger side, you want to grab a fuel line tool. You're going to disconnect the line to the supply pump. Make sure you put a rag underneath it, because you can get a little fuel to come out of it. Once you have the supply line disconnected from the rail, disconnect from the pump as well.

Back over on the driver side, we have to remove this hose assembly here that goes back to the brake booster, so you're going to remove these two nuts right on top. Then follow back and disconnect from the booster, and remove the line. You want to put a towel underneath this when you pull the line off, because you will get some fuel out of it.

Remove both fuel rail covers. This side, we already have the nuts off. That side, just pull the nuts off the studs and remove. Okay, with the covers off, remove both heater hoses.

On the driver side now, we're going to disconnect the sensor here, fuel pressure sensor on the rail. Then also disconnect all four injectors. Do the same thing on the injectors on the other side. Make sure these are all out of the way. With the injector harnesses out of the way, remove the hose that goes from the engine to your degas bottle.

With everything disconnected, we can remove the fuel rail next. There's going to be two bolts on each side. Now you can carefully remove the rail. Just make sure you kind of hold the injectors up, because a little more fuel will come out.

Now we're ready to move forward with removing the intake itself. Remove the intake bolts. These will stay with the intake.

Okay, now we can remove the manifold. Kind of lift it up. You want to get the harnesses carefully for the CMCVs. Remove the intake. Grab some tape. Put it over the port, just make sure nothing gets down in there.

Now we're going to work on removing our degas bottle. We have an aftermarket one. The stock one's the same way though. Disconnect right here at the bottle. You can leave this hose. Just make sure you have a rag in case it leaks a little bit. Then the same thing right over here at the inlet to the water pump, disconnect. Now, holding this hose upward so it doesn't leak, we're going to remove the bolts and then remove the degas bottle.

Okay, moving forward, you're going to move the upper radiator hose and then follow it up with the fan shroud. The fan shroud, basically disconnect the connector over there on the passenger side. There's two bolts that hold it on. Remove this. Just pop off the clip.

Now we're going to move the front accessory drive belt, but before we do that we're going to loosen these three bolts, as the water pump only has to come off once we remove the belt. Now with a 15 millimeter socket on the tensioner, remove tension from it and remove the belt. Then remove the water pump pulley. Then this secondary belt, the AC belt, you can simply just cut off because you're not going to reuse it.

Over here, again we're on the passenger side. We've going to pop this retainer clip off, get that harness out of the way. Then you want to tape up this port here. Then once you've done that, you going to go back to the firewall and remove both the heater hoses. We're going to cover these up as well. Make sure the opening to the radiator's covered and all the other openings are covered up, and we're finished with phase one, disassembly.

We're ready for phase two of the installation, which is modifications, because there's certain things we have to modify to use them with our kit. One of them here is going to be this brake booster aspirator hose. We're going to start by disassembling this and modifying it for installation. We'll start by removing this rubber hose from the hard line over here. Then remove the check valve from the other side. You may have to clamp, but usually just get a good grip on it and pull it off.

Moving to the other side, carefully remove this foam. We're going to disconnect everything else as part of the aspirator here, so all four of these are going to come off. Since this does not get reused, you can simply cut it to remove it.

Okay, we're ready to do some assembly work her. You want to grab this middle plastic piece with the four ports on it. These two clamps we removed earlier along with this check valve, this hose, and this plug are part of the kit that is supplied by Roush for the installation. Going to grab the plug here. The opposite side of the larger port, simply plug that. Then this will go on that side. Small clamp there, large clamp here, and that goes on the end.

Then we're going to grab this hose that's included in the one hardware kit. The large 1/2 inch fitting here, this is going to go onto that.

Okay, next grab this line again from the same kit. The last port that's left, put it onto that. Then you want to grab the foam from earlier and rewrap this section here.

We're going to grab this line here with the straight PCV fitting and then cut the hose so that we can remove it. We're going to take that fitting and the last line we installed, the one without the right angle, the one that ends more of a straight line, install that fitting in the end. That line is finished.

The next piece we're going to modify is going to be the emissions canister purge line. We're going to remove this line by cutting this fitting and removing it from the purge valve. Then you're going to grab one of the supplied hoses with the supplied clamp. Install the purge valve into that hose.

The last modification we're going to do off the car is going to be the radiator shroud. Now, what you're going to do is take this template. This little stud here, you're going to line it up with that stud. Put it right in the center, and these line up on the bottom. Then we're going to mark holes here right in the center where we're going to drill these out. Then you grab a marker. This whole area here has to be stripped out. Line it up a second time just to make sure everything's right where it belongs. When you're done marking the top, you're going to mark down here as well, as this gets cut out down here. These are for J clips to hold on the degas bottle.

We're ready to drill the holes and then cut this out. Usually a Dremel would work best. Okay, now we're going to drill these holes out.

The next modification is going to be the most intimidating part of the installation, but it really isn't bad if you take your time. You have to modify the timing cover. Now, they do offer timing covers pre-modified, but honestly that's far more work than just doing it this way. What we're going to do, this piece here will have to be ground down smooth so that it's equal with the height of these ribs over here. All this edging will have to come off. This piece here is going to have to be drilled and then tapped. We're going to start by doing the grinding over here.

Now we're ready to start the grinding. Now, before you do this, you want to cover as much of the engine bay, everything you can, because it is going to go everywhere. You're going to make a mess. We'll clean it up later, but cover as much as you can before you start.

This is what you want it to look like when you're finished grinding, nice and smooth and plenty of clearance. Next thing we're going to do now is drill this out and tap it, but again make sure you put a stop on the drill bit. You only go so deep. Now we're going to drill this out. Make sure you put a stop on your drill bit. You have to drill to a specific depth or you can cause damage. 35 millimeters is how far you want to go in. Now with an m8x1.25 tap, we're going to tap the hole to at least 25 millimeters deep.

At this point, we're ready to begin phase three, the actual installation. Now, there's a little bit of subassembly we're going to have to do still and a few more modifications as we go, but we're going to start now on the installation by installing the wiring harness for the intercooler. What you do is basically fish this end here with these two pieces along this wire harness over here to the driver side.

Over on the driver side valve cover, now you want to separate the radio capacitor from the retainer. We're going to cut the retainer off the wiring harness and then plug in the intercooler harness in between.

Okay, now over here on the passenger side tower, we're going to mount the fuse and the breaker right on this 8 millimeter bolt. The next two connections are going to be power and ground. Ground will go right here. Then power goes in here. Then the last piece here gets fished down between the frame rail and the washer bottle down here.

Next we're going to install the MAF adapter harness. Now, there's two sides to this. The one that has the bare end wires with the terminals on it's going to go over here on the passenger side. Then both of these plug into the corresponding colors back here. Now you want to zip tie the harness to this main harness.

Now we have to make some connections at the computer with the wiring harness we ran. To do that, we have to remove this top plug. The easiest thing to do is basically just move these plugs out of the way. Then push down on the tab, and pop that out. I should mention if you sent your computer off, this harness will just be laying there.

Now with the plug off, we have to remove this back cover. There's two tabs in here. You kind of want to pry up on these and pull the tab off. Then flip the harness over and carefully pry off this gray cap.

Now at this point, you need a very small screwdriver. There's three punch outs we have to make on this harness to connect the three wires we just fished over her. The first one is location 12. Now if you look, the upper left hand corner has a one, then over here has a 15. We have 14, 13, 12, and 12 is the one we're going to punch out. You want to take the black pin here and put it in location 12. Make sure when you push a harness in, you'll hear a very light click when it clicks into place. Pin 28 gets the red wire. The green one is in 80. Now with all three plugs tight, you can take it back up again.

With the harness connected, reinstall the cover on this side. Then carefully reinstall the back. Plug it back in the computer.

All right, the next step in wiring in the sent module. Now, this is going to connect to your throttle body, and this module here is just going to mound in the battery box. Then the power wire connection, we're going to go back in the box, same place we connected the intercooler pump. It's going to go there. The other harness is going to fished over here. We're going to cut the tape, then connect to this connector. Then remove this tab as well.

Next thing we have to modify is down here in the valley, and that is the knock sensors. These need to be orientated more downward for proper clearance of the supercharger assembly. What we'll probably have to do is actually cut this harness back a little bit, but first thing we want to do is loosen up these bolts. We actually will remove and replace them with new bolts. We can loosen then up though and determine where the sensors are going to go, and then figure out what modifications have to happen to the wiring harness.

Here's what you want it to look like when it's done. You want the harness to lay in the bottom of the valley. You want all the sensors basically pointing straight down. Then we can torque them to spec.

Because we're running boost, you have to run a colder spark plug, so the next step is remove all the factory plugs and replace them with the supplied Ford plugs. You can do them all at once or one at a time. I prefer to go one at a time. Remove the bolt, give this thing a little twist, remove the coil on plug assembly, and then remove the plug itself. Now, the new plugs do come gapped, but double check that they're between .028 and .031. Put a little anti-seize on the threads as well. Now we can install it. Then repeat the process with the other seven plugs.

Now we're ready to prepare the low temp radiator for installation. You want to grab two of these rubber grommets and two metal inserts. With the brackets facing up, install them in the bottom corners. Install the rubber grommet first. Then put the metal sleeve in the center.

When you're done, flip it over. Then you want to grab the supplied foam, and we're basically going to glue pieces on all the way around the edges.

These are the mounting brackets for the intercooler pump. You want to grab all three brackets and then four pieces of this 1 inch wide foam. These are going to work as insulators on the bracket when mounting the pump.

These are the upper brackets for the low temp radiator. Again, these are going to get grommets and then the metal sleeves. These will orientate basically like this. You see the Roush logo on the outside here. You want it facing outward and then upward, and the grommets go in from the top.

Okay, now we're going to grab the intercooler tank. More of these pieces of foam here. Put one of top of the curve here, then one of the bottom. I'm going to flip this over, install this like that, lay the shrink clamp into place, and grab a heat gun.

All right, now we're back at the table to do some assembly on the supercharger and the lower intake manifold. What we're going to do here is grab this PCV hose from earlier, remove that clamp, and separate this hose from this fitting. Okay, now we're going to grab the hose that we just removed. That's going to go on this fitting here on the bottom of the supercharger. Feed that up, and put it aside.

Moving on to the supercharger itself, we're going to grab the bypass hose, and then grab the supplied SIP sensor. Go right underneath there. Let's knock it down to its supplied torque spec.

We're ready to work on the front of the 2650 blower now. What we're going to do is grab this O ring for the throttle body, get that seated in there. Install the throttle body carefully, the electronics towards the pulley. I'm going to torque these to the supplied spec.

Put the supercharger pulley on. Make sure you line up the holes. We'll put a dab of Loctite on each of the bolts before installing them. Then tighten them down and torque to spec.

We're ready to prepare out new fuel rail. Now, from our stock fuel rail, we're going to remove all these clips. Then remove this sensor. Take the sensor we just removed, install it in the new rail.

Okay, we're going to grab the supplied injectors, put a little dab of petroleum jelly on the O rings. It'll make them seat a lot easier. Install each injector, and then the clip we removed from the originals.

Okay, now you're going to grab the Roush supplied filter. Put it on this adapter here for the airbox. Make sure the arrow is facing down. Then tighten it up. We're going to put it in the airbox and bolt it down with the supplied hardware.

Now you want to grab your factory airbox, remove this rubber fitting here, and press the metal insert through, and remove the grommet. Over here on our Roush box, take the two rubber inserts and install them on the new box.

Next on the instructions here is this intercooler piping. Install the supplied rubber hoses on the end. Install the clamps, and then heat shrink them on.

We're ready to install the lower intake fuel charge assembly. Now at this point in time, if you still have your sound symposer, you want to reach back behind here and remove it and install a delete. Since we already have one installed from a while ago, we're ready to install.

Okay, now we're going to fish the wiring harness down here for the MAP sensor, plug that in. Now back on the firewall, we're going to loosen up this ground. Just rotate it just a little bit. All right, now grab the supplied hardware and we're going to bolt down the intake. Just snug them down. There's a specific sequence you're going to torque them in.

All right, this part's going to be tricky. We're going to connect the hard lines to the fittings on the back of the fuel charge assembly. You want to grab the supplied clamps and make sure you're really careful of the wiring harness while you do this.

Okay, this hose is done. We can now torque down the lower here. You torque for starters to 10 Newton meters. There's a specific pattern. Start with the middle one over here on the passenger side. Then the driver side. Now in the same order we're going to go back to the bolts and tighten them an additional 45 degrees.

Okay, now grab the wire that we fished earlier for the ACT sensor. We're going to plug that in, and we're ready for the fuel rails.

What you do is line up the injectors, push everything down into place, and then reinstall the bolts. You want to grab three of the original fuel rail bolts and then two supplied bolts. The shortest one is going to go right here on top. Both on the passenger side are the originals, and then the longer supplied bolt goes down here. Now we're going to torque all five bolts to 10 Newton meters, followed by 45 degrees.

You're going to plug in this sensor here then and all your fuel injectors.

Okay, you're going to grab the upper pulley bracket, and tighten them down. Now we're going to torque these to spec.w the bracket tight, we can install the pulleys, and torque these to spec.

Okay, now the part we're looking forward to. You can actually install the supercharger assembly on the car. Don't forget to plug this sensor in over here. With the blower in place, now we can install the hardware to hold it down. Now we're going to torque to 25 Newton meters in this specific sequence in the instructions, starting over here on the passenger side.

Now we're going to install our brake booster line that we modified earlier. This is going to connect back here to the booster. These lines are actually going to go up here underneath. This line here is going to go to this rear port on the supercharger.

Now I'm going to grab this EECPV that we removed earlier. This is going to go to this green plug here, this electrical connector, and then right there to the supercharger. Then I'm just going to zip tie this to the engine harness. Now with that finished, we're going to move these fittings and then connect the fuel line on both sides.

Next, we want to grab these brackets. These are for the coil covers and also for the heater hoses. They are side specific. Grab the supplied hardware and install.

With the brackets installed, now we can install the heater hoses. Now, this sleeve here you want to put on. We put some tape on it to give it more of a finished look. This one's going to go underneath this line here, connect up front, and sit in this one, then go back behind the engine and connect to the heater core. While Brian is connecting the other side, we're going to grab the supplied zip ties and zip tie these in place.

Now, making the connections with the heater hoses at the heater core at the firewall, be careful. The one with the right angle feed that goes on the driver side goes on the bottom. The other one goes on top.

Now grab the supplied PCV hose and connect it to this rubber fitting here that's coming off the back of the supercharger. Lock in place there, and lock in place on the supercharger.

Now we're going to work on the front drive accessory. Now, what we've got to do here is remove this bolt at the bottom, this one right here at the end of the timing cover.

Now we're just going to lay our drive belt in place before we put on our front bracket. Not put it over the supercharger just yet. Just like that.

Okay, what we're going to do now is grab this smaller bolt, put it up in this corner. Install the pulley. These are going to go in up here.

The instruction provide a detailed diagram as far as where the belt's going to go, but basically you're going to go underneath your crank, above the little tensioner here, and then down underneath to your AC compressor, up over this. It's actually going to go up over the supercharger when we put the tensioner on, but as long as you have it correct down here, you can now tighten these bolts. Now we'll tighten to supplied torque spec.

Now what you do is put a 17 millimeter socket in here, and you're going to push down to relieve tension, and then pull the belt up over the blower. Make sure to seat it everywhere else, and you're good to go.

With that bracket installed, we can work on the other belt now. We're going to start by reinstalling the original water pump pulley with the factory hardware. Now, don't forget these bolts do need to be torqued to the spec provided, but you do want to install the belt first. It makes it a lot easier than trying to hold the pulley and tighten them down.

Again, the instructions are going to provide detailed diagrams where the belt goes. We're going to go around the crank, around the tensioner, around the water pump pulley, underneath the idler, and then over to the alternator. Now we can torque these down.

We're ready to mount the low temp radiator now in front of our factory radiator, which is going to provide coolant for the supercharger. Now to do that, there's a couple different things. In the case of my car, I already have an aftermarket grill installed, so there's a couple things that are a little bit different. Your car will have a bar that goes here. You're going to remove the hardware that holds it in place and put that bar aside. Now, if your car has an active shutter system, you're going to have to remove your front bumper at this point. My car doesn't, so I do not have to do that. If you do have to remove the bumper, Roush provides detailed instructions on how to do it, or you can also watch our video on the grills as we show you how to take the bumper off there. The first step with us though is remove this plastic trim panel.

With that out of the way, we're going to remove these two nuts. We're going to install the bracket now for the radiator. Now again, if you have an active system, the instructions are a little different. There's a couple spacers and a few things that are different, so make sure you read the instructions before the installation. Then do the same thing on the driver side with the driver side bracket.

Now we're ready to slide the low temp radiator into place. Now, there are nuts on the back of this. That'll allow you to actually tighten it down once the brackets are in place.

Next, we're going to mount the bottle over here on the side next to the washer bottle. We start by removing this bolt up here and the corresponding J clip. Put the bottle up into place. You're going to line it up with the bolt coming through. Now grab the intercooler pump. You're going to put it up into the hose on the bottle we just installed. Then install the supplied clamp.

Now we grab the two top pieces for the mounting bracket for the pump. The triangular side is going to go towards it, and these goes up over the frame rail. Put the bottom part of the bracket up into place. Thread in the supplied hardware. Then the back part here, these are going to thread into your tank.

Now grab the lark clamp and put that over the pump. There's a place right here for it to sit. Then line up the supplied hardware to hold it in place. Now we can tighten everything down. Then don't forget to plug in the pump.

Okay, now we're going to grab the U shaped hose. This is going to connect on the passenger side of the low temp radiator over the frame rail and then connect to the intercooler pump.

Then moving on to the other side of the low temperature radiator, this hose is going to connect to the fitting on the driver side. That'll be fished up to the engine bay to the two heater hoses that we ran down the driver side valve cover. Unlike the other one, this one will require some trimming of the plastic panel once it's installed.

Now we're going to mark the closeout panel where we're going to trim it out. Now, it does fit through there, but the last thing you want to do is actually pinch that hose that goes to your intercooler. To make sure it flows freely, we're going to trim the panel.

With the hoses mounted, now we can install the lower support for our radiator. What this is going to do, it's going to replace your factory piece. It's going to bolt right across here, and these will go up behind and bolt to the radiator. Now, these outer bolts here you're going to reinstall using the factory hardware. Now, in our case, the factory hardware is gone because we do have an aftermarket lower grill support that uses these brackets. Instead, I'll bolt this on here, then tighten these, and then finally these below.

Okay, the hose on the driver side, now we can get to the lower port. Make sure it clicks on. Then grab this radiator hose assembly. The only connection we're going to make at this point is this here. That's going to go on the coolant tank bottle located down below that we installed below the frame rail. Just leave that away from here.

We're going to reinstall the electric fan. You can reinstall with factory hardware. Don't forget to plug it in.

All right, now we can reinstall our degas bottle, the factory one or in our case aftermarket one.

Take the other end of the radiator hose here, connect it to the other side of the intercooler piping. Install this clip on the bottom. Basically you can force it on. Then connect the hoses.

With the bottom mounted, now grab the original radiator hose for the upper. Grab this factory hose from the degas bottle. We're going to remove these clamps. Then transfer them over to the new hose.

Since we removed the mass air sensor, you're going to grab this delete now, plug it in, lock it in place. Pop this off, and I'm going to zip tie it down here out of the way.

Now grab the supplied dirty air duct and slide it over the factory plastic, and install the air box.

Then move onto the inlet tube. Getting close here. Now we'll make our connections at the inlet tube. Grab the supplied PCV. Make sure they click.

Okay, then the last step of the actual assembly process is to install this cover. We're going to reassemble our belly pan, and we're ready to fill the fluids.

Okay, now we're going to reinstall the fuse removed earlier for our fuel pump, then reconnect the battery.

All right, the last step here, there's a few delays Roush provides you want to install. You're going to use a different viscosity oil now, so they provide a little sticker. There's also a new sticker for the vacuum and accessory belt. The last one goes back here on the fuel door just to remind you to use premium fuel.

All right, so once you finish the installation, you're going to want to either reinstall your computer if you sent it out or get it flashed. Make sure you don't try to start the car without the tune in it. Once you're good to go there, cross your fingers, hope you did everything right, and you're ready to start it up.

Now once you have it running, get it up to operating temperature. You want to check the coolant on both the blower and your main coolant. Make sure they're full. Make sure they're proper. You want to make sure the coolant is circulating through here, that your pump is working. Again, double check for everything. Make sure you have no leaks, there's no interferences, nothing like that, and your installation's finished.

There you have it. That's how you install Roush's Phase 1 supercharger on your 2018 Mustang GT. What we've come to expect from Roush, fit and finished once installed, it looked OEM. That looks like it came from the factory that way. As far as installation time goes, on something like this, give yourself the better part of a weekend. It'll definitely take some time. You want to make sure you take your time, get everything right. Plus remember to send that computer out to get it tuned.

Now as as far as the Dyno number, I know you guys are dying to know what kind of power it makes. Well, 700 to the crank. We know it's going to make well into the 600s to the wheel, but in the next week or so we'll get it on the Dyno, we'll give you guys some numbers as well. Take your time with the installation. Be back on the road in no time.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

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