UPR Rear Upper Camber Arm Adjustable Billet Aluminum Pair Mustang 2015-2023

I think we can all agree this S550 Mustang has a killer stance thanks to its coil over suspension. Now when you lower a car this far in the back with a factory suspension, there is an issue. Because of the IRS, when you lower the car, you're gonna get some negative camber. The wheel's gonna turn inward. This can cause additional wear on the hubs and also additional tire wear. Now the factory suspension does not have enough adjustment to fix this. But thanks to UPR Products, today, we're gonna shoe you how.

These Billet adjustable rear camber arms will be a direct replacement for the factory Camber arms on all 2015 through 2022 Mustangs. You're gonna bolt in the factory location. But thanks to this turnbuckle design, they're gonna be adjustable. It's gonna [inaudible 00:00:42] so if your car is excessively low and you have too much negative camber, you can adjust it. You can also zero it out for drag racing or set up for road racing as well. These arms feature Billet and chrome [inaudible 00:00:51] Billet adjusters in the center and energy bushings. You're gonna use your factory inner hardware and new outer hardware is included.

For this installation, you'll need a lift or a jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 15 millimeter socket, 19 millimeter socket, torque wrench, 18 millimeter wrench, 19 millimeter wrench and a 1" and 1 1/8" wrench or two adjustable wrenches.

You wanna get your car off the ground and remove the rear wheel. The first thing you're gonna remove is gonna be this bolt out here. This is the camber arm, the factory piece. So [inaudible 00:01:31] removing the outside hardware and then I'm gonna remove the inside hardware so we can move our factory part.


We can push the bolt through.

Remove our factory arm. What we want to do now is take your old arm and put it on the table with the new one. What we want to do is basically set it up where the old arm was because the actual adjustment to get your camber set up properly is gonna have to be done on a lift with an alignment rack. So what we're gonna do here is by using the stock hardware, we'll just put it through here and we're just gonna line it up and get it close.

We'll just get these snug for now. We'll make adjustments later. Now we can put it on the car. Okay, I'm gonna start with the outside first, put the arm up into place. You wanna make sure when you put it on, that side there's actually a beveled edge inside there. Make sure that goes to the inside and the bearings will sit like that in the end.

Okay, now we're gonna reinstall the factory bolt in here with our new control arm.

All right, you can put the nut on.

All right, now we're gonna tighten that nut down. Now, when you go to do that, that area inside is slotted. So you do have even more adjustment in there. If you're looking for more negative camber for whatever reason, push the arm all the way in. If you're looking for more positive, you can kind of pull the arm out. You'll see you have a little bit of a slide here. What I suggest, get it roughly in the middle because again, the car's gonna have to go on an alignment rack and they can bow it on how you want it when you get it on the rack.

All right, now we can tighten down the outside bolt.

Now we're gonna torque these down. The outside is gonna be 76 foot pounds.

Then 85 foot pound for the inside.

All right, so everything's tight there. Now you want to tighten down the adjusters.

All right, repeat the process on the other side. Reinstall your wheels and tires and your installation's finished.

Now when your installation's finished, the car's back on the ground. Honestly, it shouldn't look that much different because like I mentioned, let me stress this again, you will need an alignment to get this dialed in properly. You don't want to put a lot of miles on it before you do so. Now as far as the alignment goes, there's a couple different ways you can set this up. For a normal driver, getting within stock specs will be fine. Now if you're a drag racer, you want to have it at zero camber and if you're gonna be a road racer and autocross, stuff like that, a little negative camber's gonna make a big difference. Now as far as the installation goes, it is pretty straight forward. I'd say about an hour and a half or so and you'll be back on the road in no time.