Air Lift Performance Complete Digital Air Suspension Kit for all 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Mustangs.
The Air Lift Performance Complete Digital Air Suspension Kit allows you to drop the ride height over 4 inches from the original stock height for a killer parked stance. With the simple push of a button, you can raise it back up and into your desired ride height for cruising, a road course, or even the drag strip. As a leader in the air suspension market, Air Lift Performance is paving the way with revolutionary air management systems and suspension set-ups that will truly allow you to DRIVE IT, SHOW IT, and TRACK IT!
Normal “Static” suspension can’t compare with the versatility of air. And forget about the punishing ride quality that is associated with many conventional suspension choices. With 30-way adjustable, monotube struts that have been specially tuned to match the air springs, this system is sensitive to small inputs. The 30 clicks of adjustment aren’t just there for fun either, they allow you to dial in your preferred handling feel or desired ride quality. Depending on your goals, the ride can go from super-stiff to very soft when adjusting rebound and compression. Coupled with infinitely adjustable ride height, and a lift capability to stock height, you will no longer need to worry about driveway entrances or speed bumps in order to enjoy a lowered car.
Features and Benefits:
- Capable of lowering front of vehicle 4.75″ (120mm)
- Capable of lowering rear of vehicle 4.9″ (124mm)
- Compatible with ALL 2005-2014 Mustangs
- Easy to follow detailed instructions
- Great looks and exceptional versatility
- Proven durability with an easy installation
- Infinitely adjustable ride height
- Only basic hand tools are required to complete installation
Air Lift Performance Digital Kit Includes:
- Durable double bellows springs
- 30-level damping adjustable monotube struts
- Adjustable front camber plates- Anodized red aluminum accents
- Powdercoated gloss black steel brackets
- Progressive rate, tapered sleeve rear springs
- 30-way damping adjustable rear shocks
- Braided stainless steel leader hoses
- 1/4″ & 3/8″ PTC fittings
- All mounting hardware
- AutoPilot V2 Digital Controller
- 1/4″ Air Lines
- Advanced Air Lift Manifold
- Viair 380 Compressor
- 4 Gallon Light Weight Aluminum Tank
- Full Installation Instructions
*Modifications are required in the rear. You will only need to drill 2 holes near each rear spring location. The holes will then be covered by interior trim.
*The 2013-2014 GT500 is equipped with electronically controlled suspension. This kit will fit but it will render the factory electronic control of the suspension useless.
*An OEM 2011-2014 V6 or GT upper rear shock bushing set must be used to properly complete installation of the new rear shocks on 2013-2014 GT500s.
As the leader in air suspension products for over 60 years, Air Lift Performance is committed to delivering quality parts that last. To ensure longevity for the customer, the key suspension components have been tested on a durability rig for over one million cycles, which equates to 100,000 miles. With a one-year, unlimited-mileage warranty, you can purchase this kit with peace of mind.
With Air Lift Performance's Digital Air Suspension Kit, you can get the look and the performance you want in one easy-to install kit. Order the Air Lift Performance Complete Digital Air Suspension Kit for your 2005-2014 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
Similar Mustang PartsMore Mustang Parts
Product ReviewsWrite a review
The 2014 does have a fixed panhard bar. I would like to talk to anyone that has already installed this on a 2014 GT. Also, I am concerned if I get stupid (usually 5 or 6 times a month) and run the corners hard, would the bags blow? What is the warrenty?
Would you still use both front & rear strut tower braces with this air suspension installed
Do you stock this or is it a special order?
Do you have the oem 2011-14 v6, gt upper rear shock bushing set , because i have a 14 GT500?
Do you have international shipping to Bahrain? And how much?
What about the Panhard bar on the rear axel does it get in th way or what
WHEN DOES IT NEED OF CHANGE PARTS (SUSPENSION PARTS)?
You Might Also Like
From:CJ's Low Price:$450.00
From:CJ's Low Price:$450.00
Jeremy: Thanks, Bill.
Bill: I'm going to admit it wasn't long ago when I thought of air bags, I thought of slam trucks, stuff like that. As soon as you put an air suspension on a fifty thirty though, it changed my opinion of it. Obviously I know it's all about performance. Tell us about the kit you brought with us we’re going to be installing on this GT 500.
Jeremy: This is our performance airlift kit, part number 95723, comes with our digital V2 system. It's really set up to be the best all-around suspension you can have. You can have a lowered stance, good ride quality. You can still take it to the track and beat on it once in a while.
Bill: These are good for drag racing, autocross, road racing. The suspension will do all that stuff on top of giving you that slam look that everybody loves.
Jeremy: Whatever you want to do.
Bill: Okay, what does this kit include? What comes with it?
Jeremy: Everything you see here comes with the kit. We’ve got our front struts, our rear airbags, which take place of the rear coil springs, shocks, our manifold and valve unit along with the controller, air compressor, and then your storage tank.
Bill: Okay, and tell us about that V2 controller. What options come with that versus other ones you had before?
Jeremy: The V2 is a great unit. It's very compact. It's got eight different presets, so you can put in if you've got a steep driveway if you just want the front end to come up, you can push a button, just that happens. It's got a ride height, you can go all the way down, you can really set up however you want to.
Bill: What kind of ride height are we talking here versus all the way down to maxed out height wise?
Jeremy: Normal ride height is inch and a half to two inches below stock. This kit will go all the way down four inches below stock, and about a half inch to an inch of both.
Bill: You have a ton of play then as far as laying it out if you need to but then driveways you can put it up in the air without a problem at all.
Jeremy: Yep, exactly.
Bill: What kind of adjustability do you have in your shocks and struts?
Jeremy: With the shocks and struts they're thirty way damping adjustable so you can really fine tune it if you want a good stiff ride, or if you're going to the track, want it stiff, going drag racing you can stiffen up the rear, lighten up the front to get good weight transfer on it. We've also got the adjustable camber plates, these will go to about negative three degrees.
Bill: This is a bolt in assembly, I don’t think any pieces off the factory one, it’s a complete bolt in strut assembly.
Jeremy: Everything is bolt in, yep.
Bill: Okay and with this kit, on say like our GT 500 here, what kind of timeframe is it going to take? I mean obviously we're going to do the install here and show people how to do it, but what kind of timeframe would an average mechanic, or someone with average mechanical abilities take to put this system in their car?
Jeremy: With everything taking your time about eight to ten hours. No special tools, everything bolts in, you've got to drill a couple holes, and then really that's it.
Bill: Great, let's get started.
Jeremy: Awesome, sounds good.
Bill: All right so what's the best way to get started? Obviously the suspension’s direct replacement for the factory pieces but beyond that, where do we start?
Jeremy: Normally I like to start with the tanking and the compressor. You can put everything in the trunk. We're going to show you a way we're going to do it, kind of hang it from the package tray. Kind of hide the compressor down the spare tire well. Doesn't take up much room at all and everybody thinks with the air suspension you're going to gain 60, 70 pounds. With this the suspension components are lighter, we have an aluminum tank, we have a small compressor.
Bill: That’ll balance out any weight added by the compressor, and you’re not making the car any heavier. I know that’s important to a lot of people watching probably.
Jeremy: Yeah, and as you'll see it's not going to take up much room in the trunk. You’ll still have plenty of room to take the groceries, kid's stroller, whatever you need.
Bill: Okay, let’s grab the components and we’ll start fitting everything.
Jeremy: Sounds good.
Bill: You were saying we’re going to map the tank up under this, keep it out of the way?
Jeremy: Yeah we're going to put it right up here in the package tray.
Bill: See how well that fits there.
Jeremy: Mark some holes, we're actually going to have to drill into the bracket a little bit to move it in right on the edge of the curve out here.
Bill: Okay yeah, we’ll never get a nut on if we put it that way.
Jeremy: Nope, so if we move it in, we’ll mount it up here, keep it right out of the way for everybody.
Bill: Okay, let’s drill the holes and we’ll put it back in and park everything up.
Jeremy: All right. Now we're going to mark the holes. Okay, we should be good. Okay so we did mount this or modify this tank a little bit to mount it the way we wanted to. If you don’t want to hang it from here, we do have different tank options if you want to put it down in the spare tire well or somewhere else in your trunk.
Bill: Okay, perfect.
Jeremy: Okay, so now we're getting to the point where we’re going to mount the compressor, and you have a lot of different options of where you want to put it. The customer of this Shelby kind of wants to keep the compressor hidden so we've gone down into the spare tire well.
We’ve already had vehicle up in the air to make sure that we’re not going to drill through into any lines, or fittings, hoses, or anything like that that could be in the way. We’re going to go ahead and mount this here, then we're going to run the lines up to the tank, we'll show you that in a second.
Bill: All right so we got the holes drilled for the tank, now we’re going to mount the compressor first before tank goes into place?
Bill: Okay and how do we mount the compressor?
Jeremy: The compressor’s got little feet on it. This actually comes with our compressor mounting kit. A little bit of a noise suppression to it. The compressor can be a little bit loud but this really quiets it down quite a bit. We’re just going to mark our holes and drill through the spare tire well and get it mounted up.
Jeremy: Looks like it’s going to fit right there.
Jeremy: While Bill’s drilling the holes for the compressor I'm going to go ahead and put the tank together. Now with the tank you have five different ports on here. You can really configure it however you want to. You can run your compressor in on this side, you can put the appropriate fittings over here. We've got some plugs they're a nice push to connect fitting, really leak proof. We're going to go ahead and get this put together and get it in the car.
Okay now while we're putting the tank together, you want to be really careful when wrapping these with Teflon tape. You don’t want to put the tape where it's over the orifice of the fitting because that’s going to go through your air system and cause a lot of problems.
You can just go back on the threads, leave about a thread or two showing, just kind of put that on nice and tight. I like to wrap it around two or three times, you don’t want to put too much on because then it will be really hard to get it into the tank. You want to keep all the frays and everything from getting in the fitting at all. Once you've got it wrapped you can go ahead and start putting your tank together.
Now we've got the fitting installed for the compressor line that's going to be coming into it. With all the ports you’re not going to use them all, they’re not going to have a dedicated fitting such as this one. This is just going to be kind of a dummy port, we've got a plug that's going to go in it. It’s just going to seal it from any air leaking out of the tank.
Bill: Okay so the pump's mounted and we do the tank next, where do we go from here?
Jeremy: Right now we’re going to put in the air lift control manifold. This is your air distribution block, has all the electronics and everything built into it. This is really the brain and the heart of the system. We're going to mount this right above the tank, it’s a little bit easier right now to mount it without the tank in the way.
Bill: Okay, sounds good.
Jeremy: Should be right there. There we go, good to go. Okay so now we're going to mount the tank here with hardware, get the bolts.
Bill: All right so the tank’s mounted, the pump’s mounted, manifold’s mounted, I guess it's time for the lines.
Jeremy: Yep, we’ve got to connect everything together. We've already installed a line going from the compressor to the tank that we’ve got to hook up yet. This is a line that's going to go to the tank itself that's just a regular tire valve on this end.
Bill: What's that for?
Jeremy: This is going to be for if for some reason the compressor ever goes out, you don't have air, you can hook this up to a regular shop air compressor. This will also drain the tank as well.
Bill: Okay so it's a drain and fill for the tank, almost like an emergency backup.
Jeremy: Right, exactly. You’ve got the compressor on and you’re compressing air, it's going to make moisture, you’re going to get a little bit of moisture in the tank. Periodically, every other month, depending on where you live.
Bill: Just like the air compressor in your house, same idea.
Bill: Okay, easy enough. These lines, where do they have to be run on the car? Is there a specific place? I’m assuming it's plastic and you don't want it near heat.
Jeremy: Right, exactly. Plastic, it's going to melt when it hits heat. With this car we're going to run it inside the vehicle, just along the door sills underneath the carpet. You can run it underneath as well as long as you keep away from heat, anything rotating, driveshaft, anything like that at all.
Bill: Okay and you said the lines are very particular as far as how they're cut. You want to tell us a little more about that and show the people here so they know what they're doing at home?
Jeremy: Exactly. The lines, or the whole kit will come with a line cutter. You want to use this rather than just a regular straight razor blade. When you do that there's a chance you're going to go down and actually cut it on an angle. If you've got an angle it's going to leak, so it's as simple as this. You put the line in here, press down on it, you've got a straight cut.
Bill: Just make sure it's straight. Very, very important.
Jeremy: Yep, exactly, yep.
Bill: Okay seems easy enough. We’re going to start with the drain line you said?
Jeremy: Yep, we’ll run the drain line, get that in place.
Bill: Okay. You're putting that through, that's a factory grommet from the floor of these cars.
Jeremy: Factory grommet I just put a little hole in.
Bill: Whenever possible use factory holes, factory grommets, least holes we’ve got to drill in the GT 500, the happier we're going to be.
Jeremy: Okay so I found this little channel that we can route the line right up through here, kind of keep it out of the way.
Bill: If you do have a Shaker 1000 or Shaker Pro you will have to remove the sub-woofer for this part of the installation.
Jeremy: Cut her here. We'll just cut off our excess. Always good to leave a little bit more than you need. Okay push that in and we've got a drain.
Bill: Jeremy since it was tough to see on the side of the tank, can you show everybody how the fittings actually work with your airline?
Jeremy: Yeah this is a simple push to connect fitting, so what that means is you can just push the line in here and it’s automatically going to lock.
Bill: No tools, nothing to twist.
Jeremy: Nope, not at all. This is a pipe thread. You can thread this into your tank, your air bag, whatever you're going into. When you've got the line you can simply just push it in, and it stays locked. If you wanted to come out everybody thinks have to cut it, all you have to do is pull this collar, push it in, pulls right out.
Bill: Okay, so just simply push in, press and lock.
Jeremy: Yep, you can reuse it, it's not a problem at all.
Bill: Excellent. We tied the hose onto the factory harness, here to run up to our tank. I'm going to connect it to the compressor pump, and Jeremy will connect it to the tank itself.
Jeremy: Okay I've got the opposite end of the line that Bill just put into the compressor, hook it right in here to our tank, that way when the compressor's running the air's coming right into the tank, and that's going to give you your reserves. You’ve got air on demand whenever you need it.
Okay now we’re going to connect the manifold to the tank's supply line. Plug it in there, plug it into our push connect fitting on top. We now have air pressure to the whole system.
Okay now we're starting to run the air lines from the individual air bags up the manifold. We've got a line right here, this is going to the left-front air bag. We’re just going to simply pull in here. Plug it in, pull it back out, make sure it's nice and tight, and now we're going run the rest of the line. Okay, on this particular car we're going to run the lines underneath the rear seat, and then down the door sill panels on each side, just to keep it inside a little bit more protected than being outside all the time.
Bill: Jeremy got the line up under the dash by taking the door sill plate off. We've found on this model here, there's a nice little electrical plug harness located right on the firewall. There's a little nub that sticks off the side closer to the inside of the fender. You cut that off, it's the perfect size to run the hose through.
Jeremy: On this side of the passenger side, it’s the same style of grommet that Bill was talking about on the driver side. What we're going to do is we're going to clip this little nub right here, we’ve already checked there’s nothing running through it at all. That'll make a perfect spot for our air line and our wires to come through. Air line will come through about here, the wires will slip through behind the inner fender well here, and go right up to the battery.
Bill: All right now the hoses are run, let's move on to the wiring. You said it's a three-wire hookup. Where does all this go? He’s got a lot wires there.
Jeremy: It looks like a big bundle but it's really not. I mean we're going to run three wires up through the actual car itself. Right along where we ran the air line yesterday.
Bill: Power, ground then a turn on I’m assuming.
Jeremy: Power, ground, ignition, that's it. Then we've got, back here we've got your power and ground for the compressor, so we'll run this back here. This will be the plug going into the manifold itself. That's where all the power's going to come through. You've got a sealed relay and then we've got the cable we’re going to run underneath the carpet up into the car.
Bill: Okay so no separate harness for the pump. It's all one harness for everything.
Jeremy: Everything is all together.
Bill: Okay, start fishing it through.
Jeremy: All right. Okay we’re getting ready to run our wires through the car. We've got our three electrical hookups here, we’ve got your battery ground, your battery power, and then our ignition source which we're going to take right into this fuse box.
Okay so now we’ve got the wires fished through the car, we've got the battery, the power, the ground, and the ignition circuit. We're going to go ahead and leave these here, we’re going to cut off the excess. Hook it up once we've got all the suspension parts in place.
Bill: While Jeremy’s making connections up front, I extended the wiring harness for the compressor, wrapped around the trunk to the factory harnesses, and then up to the main power harness, which is connecting to the manifold up above the air tank. I also plugged in all the wiring for the manifold, and had the air lines back here as well. All right so the wires and hoses are done, I guess it's time for the actual suspension components.
Jeremy: We’re going to leave one just still attached so the strut doesn't fall out on us when we take it out down here. Right now I'm removing the ABS wire. That way we can go ahead and install it once we get our new strut in.
Bill: Jeremy you said before the front strut installation is just like installing a standard strut, there's nothing special, no extra holes, brackets, nothing it’s just a direct replacement.
Jeremy: Nope, direct bolt in.
Bill: Jeremy's going to pop off the strut now, we've shown you this a bunch of times. Basically you remove the sway bar end links, remove the two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle, then remove the top bolt and the strut’s going to come right out.
Jeremy: Okay so here we have a comparison of the factory GT 500 Shelby strut and the Air Lift Performance strut. Now Bill and I weighed these yesterday. The Shelby strut weighs eight pounds more than what our strut does. If you're worried about weight gain or anything like that with an air suspension system, don't worry about it, not going to be an issue.
Okay now we've got our braided line threaded into our airbag. We're going to go ahead and mount the strut in. This line is going to meet up with the plastic line we ran earlier from the trunk.
Okay now we’re going to replace the factory forward sway bar link with the Air Lift Performance link. Right now I'm reattaching the brake line to the brake line tab that's already on our strut.
Okay now we’re just going to plug the braided hose into our plastic line we ran earlier. We'll zip-tie that out of the way and we are all set with the front.
Bill: Now that the front suspension’s finished, we’re moving on to the back. We’re going to remove the shocks, drop the sway bar for clearance, and install the new rear bags and new rear shocks.
Jeremy: Now save this nut because it is going to be used on the used strut we're putting back here.
Now we're going to drill some holes in the upper coil spring pocket. First hole you’re just going enlarge the factory hole that’s already there. The stud is going to slide up through here, we’re going to take this nut off. When it goes up through the trunk we’re going to put the nut back on that holds it in place. We’re also going to drill another hole for the air line to come in down from the trunk into the air bag.
Okay here we are in the rear of the car, we’re going to take the bump stop, you’re going to take these top two ribs, even cut them right off, you can cut them with a hacksaw or a sharp knife, goes through fairly easy. Okay here we're going to put the nut into the bottom of the coil spring perch. You'll put the nut facing down, and it slides right in there. Then you install the lower bag spacer, and what you'll do is you'll put the bag up into the coil spring pocket. This lower stud will go into the nut we dropped into the perch.
You want spin it down until it starts getting tight, and then you'll give it a good round, make sure it's nice and tight in there. Now here's where it’s important you want to line up that hole that you drilled, the second hole, with the air port on the air bag. That way the line can come down through the car and go right into the fitting.
While Bill's jacking up the rear of the car, I'm guiding the air bag in to make sure the stud fits into that factory hole we drilled earlier. Okay here we're going to get ready to install the rear shock. We transferred the OEM bushing and the metal plate from our original shocks on to ours. Now what we found with the 2013 GT 500 we have now, they have the electronic suspension on it. That will not work, you'll have to get a stock '11 through '14 GT bushings to put it into place.
Okay we’ve got the shock through here, we've got our upper nut reattached to it. If we go ahead and tighten this down. Now the stud that came up through the trunk here. We've got our nut and our washer on there. We're also going to put a grommet around the air line so that this sharp metal doesn't in the line and cause an issue.
Okay now we're butting things up in the back here. We've got all of our air lines ran. On the manifold itself, it will say FL, left front. That's all marked here so you know where to run your air lines. Now with these lines we’re going to leave them a little bit long just in case the owner of the car wants to hide things a little bit more, we kind of leave it up to him.
Okay we just finished wiring up the controller. We ran the wire underneath the carpet up into the center console just to give the owner some options of what he wants to do with the controller. Right now it's just going to sit basically in the cup holder. You can mount it but a lot of people like to be able to put it away too.
Right now we're getting the electronics hooked up. We're running the battery ground, and we’re going to be hooking up the power wire from the compressor directly to the battery positive. We've got a small pink wire here, this is going to be your ignition source wire. We're in the fuse box underneath the hood. We're looking for a circuit that's going to be hot during key on, engine start and then back to on. We've found that in the Shelby here, there's an engine 2 port that we're going to go into. There's this nice little add a fuse circuit that goes right in here.
Bill: All right so everything's installed, everything’s hooked up. What's next?
Jeremy: We're ready to go. We’re going to actually use the emergency fill that we put in just because there's no pressure in the tank right now.
Bill: Instead of running compressor to death to fill it the first time.
Jeremy: Right, exactly. It just kind of gives the compressor a break a little bit. We’re going to fill this to probably about 80, 90 psi.
Bill: What kind of pressure does the tank hold? What’s it going to … Is there a start/stop? How often does it run?
Jeremy: It's going to go to 150 psi, and then any time it dips below 135 the compression’s going to come back on automatically.
Bill: Okay, assuming the car’s on.
Jeremy: Exactly. Okay so we’ve got the whole system installed, now what we need to do is go through what we call a calibration process. Basically what's going to happen is it's going to run the vehicle through a series of air bursts to each individual air bag, basically testing out how much volume it takes to inflate a bag, and how long it's going to take to inflate one. We go into the calibration menu here. Then we'll just hit System Cal. It's going to tell you it can last about ten minutes. We want to say yes to that. Vehicle is on level ground, parking brake is off, proceed. It'll go ahead and put it into its calibration sequence.
Okay so now we've got everything installed, we’ve been through the calibration process. Now is the time to determine at what height you want the vehicle. Once you determine that height, it's going to be your preset one option, and that way when you start the vehicle, here from all the way down in a show stance. As soon as you start it, it will automatically come to your ride height, no need to press a button or anything else.
Then you can set your other eight presets. We've got an all up button, so speed bumps, steep driveways, things like that, also an all down button. You can really customize this however you want to for how many different heights you want to have, and it's all instant. It's kind of like a smartphone where you've got to wake it up. You press the button once and then you press it again to actually get it to function, so if you bump it going down the road with your elbow it's not going to make a difference at all. With the system we don't have time to go through all the functions and everything that it will do. It comes with our very detailed instruction manual, helps you run through everything to really set it up to fit your need with the vehicle.
Okay another great feature of our shocks and struts is the ability to adjust the damping. They're thirty way damping adjustable so you can set it up as stiff or as soft as you want, depending on if you’re going to race track or just driving around town.
Bill: All right Jeremy, we obviously talked about the huge benefit of ride height adjustment, and the fact that it’s also a performance suspension. You’re getting quality shocks, quality struts, everything’s adjustable. What else should someone who’s interested in Air Lift Performance be prepared for? What else do they need to know about these systems?
Jeremy: They're extremely reliable. You can hit the track, you can drive it to a show, you can drive it every day. It's really great as an all-around every day suspension. Now with that it is so different when you pull into a car show and you lay it out. People are going to look at you. You're going to get questions like, “Can you drive it this low?” It's obviously not going to drive this low.
Bill: Just a big no on that one. Yes, don’t even try it. You're not going to make it very far.
Jeremy: Wheels are not going to turn, it’s not going to do that. You also get the question, “Can you make it hop?” That's not what this is designed to do.
Bill: It’s not hydraulics.
Jeremy: It's not hydraulics, yeah. It’s came a long ways from those days. This is a great all-around performance package.
Bill: Okay. A system like this, as we showed you, the installation’s not too bad. I’d say you probably give yourself a weekend, you can do it with basic hand tools in your garage, you’ll be back on the road in no time.