Reproduction Tinted Windshield for 1965, 1966, 1967 and 1968 Mustangs.
Replace your 1965-1968 Mustang's old, chipped or cracked windshield with this OEM-style reproduction tinted windshield, now available from CJ Pony Parts!
This direct-fit replacement windshield features year-correct tint and Mustang-specific curve. It's constructed from high-quality tempered glass for added safety for you and your passengers. When you replace your pony's windshield, you'll need to replace the weatherstrip to help protect and secure the glass, and it's also recommended to restore or replace your chrome molding as well. CJ's offers all of those parts and more--browse our site for everything you'll need to complete your classic beauty's restoration today!
*Weatherstrip and moldings are sold separately.
*This tinted windshield will fit all 1965, 1966, 1967 and 1968 Convertible, Coupe and Fastback Mustangs.
Watch our video to learn how to properly install and sealyour new reproduction windshield!
Whether you’re looking for an exterior mirror, wheels and tires, headlights and taillights or a set of interior upholstery, CJ’s has the parts you need to complete your classic Mustang restoration with ease! CJ’s has the parts you need to bring your early model Mustang build back to life--browse our huge selection of restoration parts for your pony today!
Order this Reproduction Tinted Windshield for your classic 1965, 1966, 1967 or 1968 Mustang today from CJ Pony Parts!
Product ReviewsWrite a review
Going to Hershey, will visit your store. Require new Carpet Light Saddle, mass back, Windshield for 67 Mustang please advise if you carry in stock or order from manufacturer and direct deliver to purchaser, also advise name of manufacturer.
My 68 coupe is a factory A/C car with tinted glass from the factory. To my knowledge, factory tint is a green tint on the entire glass on every window in the car. Is this windshield tinted green? What color is the tint across the top?
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Today we're going to show you the correct way to install a new windshield in your '65 through '68 Mustang. The process is going to be pretty much the same whether you have a coup, convertible or fastback, with just the moldings being slightly different. We had to remove the windshield on our '68 because we installed a new headliner.
If you haven't removed a windshield, it's actually pretty straightforward. Use your molding tool to remove the moldings. Start on the inside corner, pull the weather stripping back and you can press out the old windshield. You'll never get the channel perfect, but you want to get it as clean and smooth as possible. If the windshield's been out recently, most of the black caulking will probably be soft, which won't be a problem for the new piece. If it's older, this stuff will get hard and you want to make sure you clean it off before you try to install your windshield.
If you're installing new glass, this step isn't going to be an issue, but if you're reinstalling a window that's already been installed, you want to make sure you get all the old caulk off the edges before you reinstall it. Once you have your glass clean, the first step of the installation is actually to install the weather strip. Let me get it out and spread it out on the windshield roughly where it's going to go and then we can begin the installation.
You just place this, starting with the edge. I'm going to pull it up and slide it over the glass. Just take your time and work your way around. This is one of the those installs that's probably going to look a lot easier on camera that it actually is. The weather strip is a tight fit and getting it on the glass will take some time.
Once you get the weather strip stretched around the windshield and get feeling back in your fingers, you can move on to the strip caulk. What you want to do is pick up some strip caulk and this inner weather strip right here. Once again you're going to pull back the edge and lay strip caulk in the bottom all the way around. Go back through and make sure you get it all the way in the bottom of the channel. Grab another piece and keep on going.
In the next step you'll need about 14 feet of string. The string is actually what you're going to use to make this inner weather strip, where you just installed the strip caulk, go around the inside of your windshield frame. We want to start at the top, then work your way around, putting this in the exact same channel you just installed your strip caulk. Make sure you overlap here at the top. Tape that side down and we're ready to install our windshield.
Before you're ready to put the windshield in the car, check all of your clips for your moldings. You want to make sure they're in the right position, because once you get the glass in, you're not going to be able to adjust these anymore.
When you put the windshield in, you want to get some help. The glass itself is on the heavier side, plus it's large and kind of hard to handle. Getting an extra set of hands will make it a lot easier to put it on the car. Rest on the bottom and then kind of push it down into place. Make sure it's sitting flat and you'll want to kind of have an even gap all the way around. Make sure your clips are visible on the bottom as well as on the sides and top, and you're ready to move inside the car.
This part, you'll also want to have two people. You'll want someone on the outside pushing against the windshield while we remove the string from the inside. As you pull the string, again, make sure the weather strip is going over the inside. The corner is the most critical part and we'll make special care to make sure that the corner gets over. Once you make it to the bottom corner, now you want to do the other side first before you go across the bottom.
Now that the windshield's in the car, we're ready to seal it. The sealant is messy. There's just no way around it, so before we start installing it, get some good body shop tape and put tape on all the body panels around the area to protect your paint.
Now we're ready to start with the sealant. You'll need three tubes of sealant and make sure you have a caulk gun, something to cut the tip of the sealant with and, again, some paper towels. Like I said, this is going to be a messy job. Maybe you're wondering about this tube here. What we did is grab some scrap metal and made little brackets to hold the top of it. The reason being, you've got to kind of force this under the weather strip and this moves really easily. By strengthening it, it makes it a lot easier to get under the weather strip and get as deep as we need to, to get a good seal.
Get the tip up underneath the seal. At this point you probably understand why a lot of glass shops don't want to touch this job. Once you've sealed the inside, now you do the exact same thing, except you're going to go on the outside, so between the seal and the actual body and again, all the way around the outside to get a good seal coat. Make sure you get it down in there, and then come to the clips, you sort of want to try to get it up under the clip and then you'll go over the top of it and on the other side. Then go back across the top and especially the corners. Make sure you've got a nice, thick coat up there, almost like you're caulking a bathroom. As long as you're down in the channel, you can't really use too much. Better to use too much than not enough or it won't seal.
Once you have a nice, thick coating of sealant installed, you want to repeat the exact process on the rear window. The gasket installs the same way as well as the sealant.
Once you have the glass done, now we're going to clean it up. You want to grab some sort of a solvent, Goo Be Gone, Goof Off, something like that, that's not going to damage the paint but that'll get this off.
Now we're outside and ready to water-test our windshield. Just like a few other jobs in this installation, this is definitely a two-man job. You might think you want to get the hose and just pressure-wash and spray it as hard as possible. You really don't want to do that. You want to start in the middle, just use low pressure and move slowly. That way you can get an idea, if it does leak, where the leak's at and you can work on it. Ready, Jeff? How are we looking? Good? All right, no leaks here. Repeat the process for the rear window and we're ready to reinstall our moldings.
Now that our windshield's been installed, sealed and we leak-tested it, the last step is going to be to put our moldings back on the car. The first thing you want to do is go around the taped part of the windshield and everywhere there's a clip, you want to make a mark. Then when you're putting the moldings on, you know where the clips are and that's where you're going to put your pressure down and make them lock into place.
You're going to want to start with the lower piece. The three things you're going to need for this part of the installation is going to be a mallet, a piece of wood and some patience. You want to take your time. These can bend very easily, they're very simple to damage. You want to start by putting the lower one in place and then make sure it's centered. Check that the edges are in the exact same spot on both sides, because once you get this in place, you're not going to have any side-to-side adjustment.
Once you have it in place, you're going to start with the corner and simply start pressing it into the clips. It can be a challenge to get it in the clips. Sometimes you get lucky and be able to do it with your hands, other times you'll have to break out the wood and the mallet. You definitely feel it when you get it right. You want to make sure the angle of the piece inside is angled under the clip. You put it on top, you'll bend the clip and it's not going to go into place. Make sure you're almost kind of pulling out and then pushing down and you'll actually feel it slide into the clip. If you can't push it up, use a hammer to bump it into place.
Now we can move on to the sides. You want to make sure once your bottom's in place, the side is going to slide on the bottom and this edge here is going to get pushed in behind your clips. Now repeat the process with the other side.
Now, basically we have the same process for the top. I'm going to start with the driver's side. Honestly, you can start with either side, just make sure the very center's not pushed all the way in so both pieces are together and then you push them in as one. Now we'll slide this into the other piece. Make sure the top and bottom are both in.
Once you have the moldings on, we can grab our solvent and clean everything up, then we can remove the tape.
As you can see, properly installing a windshield in your '65 through '68 Mustang, it's a very time-consuming, it's also a very messy job. If you've never done it before, you want to give yourself the better part of a day for the installation and be back on the road in no time.