Pair of BMR Double Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms with QA1 Rod Ends and Spherical Bearings for all 2005-2014 Mustangs.Stock control arms are marginal at best. Bushing deflection combined with control arm flex creates erratic handling and inconsistent rear end stability when subjected to the added loads of performance driving. All of BMR's control arms are TIG welded and utilize either greaseable spiral fluted polyurethane bushings or Teflon lined HD spherical bearings by QA1. Their CNC machined adjusters are made from 4130 chrom-moly and have rolled threads. All rod end spacers are 304 stainless. You won't find better quality components. Additionally, our control arms retain the factory designed rear offset, a necessity others overlook resulting in split, binding bushings.
Available in a durable black hammertone or red powdercoated finish.
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BMR offers several control arms for both street and race use with polyurethane or spherical bearings for high horsepower applications. In our case, we're going to go with their street lower control arm with the polyurethane bushings, which are fully greasable. The polyurethane will have a lot less flex than the factory rubber bushings, which will help increase traction.
For this installation you will need a jack and jack stands or a lift and pole jack, 1/2" ratchet, torque wrench, 18-mm socket, grease gun, zip ties, and safety glasses.
You want to make sure your emergency brake is off when you put your car up in the air. The factory brake cable's going to go through the control arm, so we'll have to disconnect the cable to remove our factory control arms. The cable can be easily disconnected right at the brake caliper. We'll start by removing the cable retainer. Usually you can saw this out by hand. You may need a small screwdriver. We'll pop that out first. Now we can pull the cable off the bracket, and slide it up, and pull it off the caliper, and pull it down out of the way.
You want to install one control arm at a time. That way the rear doesn't shift. It'll make it easier for the new control arms to go into place. If you're doing this job on the ground using jack stands, you use the jack stands on the axle to support it while you're doing the installation. If, like us, you're using a lift, you want to grab a pole jack and just support the side you're working on.
We're going to start with the rear bolt. You only need to put a wrench or socket on this bolt here. The inside has its own stop, so it'll hold in place. And remove the control arm.
Here we can see how much beefier the BMR control arm is versus our stock control arm. The arm itself is much more heavy duty, and the bushings are a lot larger. The arms are side specific. You want the grease fittings facing down. The skinnier part goes towards the front, and then the offsets go towards the inside. We're going to put some grease on the edge of the bushing before we install.
We'll start with the front by putting the nut and retainer into place in the bracket. Push the control arm up into place, and install our bolt. You want to get it snug at this point, but not all the way tight. Now, we'll install the rear. We'll tighten this one up and then go back and tighten the front bolt. Now we'll grab our torque wrench. Now we're going to torque to 130-foot pounds. We're going to grease the fittings.
Since our new control arm is solid, we're going to bring the e-brake cable underneath it and back up into the bracket. Now we're going to install the retainer. You don't want the cable hanging this low, especially on a lower car like ours, so we're going to tie it up to our control arm. Once your brake line is tied up, now you want to repeat the process on the other side.
Our BMR lower control arms will do a great job in helping with our wheel hop, and will only take around an hour to install. Between those and Eibach springs, we have a nice little foundation for the suspension on our 2011 GT. For more updates on this project and our other project cars, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel.