Pair of Maximum Motorsports Heavy Duty Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms for 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 and 1998 Mustangs.
Significantly enhance the style and performance of your 1979-1998 Mustang by purchasing this Pair of Heavy Duty Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms from Maximum Motorsports. With a strong & stiff steel tube construction, these lower control arms will improve your handling & traction so you can hit those corners hard, while also conveniently adjusting your Mustang's ride height for your specific drive.
Features & Benefits:
- 2" Rounded Steel Tube Construction
- Easy-to-Adjust Spring Perch Design
- Raises Ride Height up to 2" and Lower up to 1"
- Improved Traction & Handling Performance
- Black Powder Coated Finish
- Supplied Heavy-Duty Weight-Jack Bolt Makes for Easy Height Adjustment
- 3-Piece Urethane Bushing Located at Chassis End
- Large Spherical Bearing at the Axle End
- Produces Aggressive Appearance
- Reduces Unwanted Deflection
- Provides a Firmer Launch
- Significantly Reduces Wheel Hop
- Less Stress on the Chassis Torque Box
- Increases Anti-Squat Percentage
- Includes Rear Sway Bar Mounts
- Made in the USA
Maximum Motorsports has constructed this pair of heavy duty rear lower control arms to have a spring perch design, which will allow you to easily adjust the height of your Mustang while it is still on the ground. With the help of a heavy-duty weight-jack bolt, you'll be able to raise your ride height up to two inches and lower it as much as an inch. This will help your appearance and performance by compensating for added weight as well as allowing you to fine-tune your height to adjust your instant center, which in turn will increase your anti-squat percentage. You'll also be able to corner your weight to get the optimum handling performance.
Completely made in the USA, these rear lower control arms have a 2" rounded steel tube construction for significantly increased strength and stiffness. Maximum Motorsports then finishes them off with a durable, black powder coating. This pair also comes with the proper mounts that you'll need for the factory-style rear sway bar.
Maximum Motorsports puts a 3-piece urethane bushing at the chassis end that will allow for proper articulation while reducing any deflection. The bushing has a harder center which will prevent fore & aft deflection and a softer outer section which will allow for proper angular motion. They place the urethane bushing on the chassis end instead of the axle end to reduce noise, vibration, harshness and stress to the torque box in the chassis. The axle end has a large spherical bearing that provides similar articulation and freedom of motion, while eliminating deflection.
Not only can these adjustable lower control arms create a more aggressive appearance, but they'll also significantly improve your Mustang's handling and traction performance. By controlling the movement of your rear axle more precisely, you'll be able to hit those hard turns with ease. The reduction of excessive deflection will help the stability of your Pony. These lower control arms will also help you get a firmer launch off the starting blocks. The ability to adjust the instant center will let your optimize your launch and raising the right back corner will increase the weight on that tire which will reduce the amount of tire spin.
*The spring perch on these rear lower control arms will only fit aftermarket springs with the help of an isolator.
Hurry up and order yourself a Pair of Maximum Motorsport Heavy Duty Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms for your 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 or 1998 Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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These Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty Lower Control Arms are going to fit your 1979 through 1998 Mustang. They feature adjustable spring perches, which will allow you to adjust the height of your rear suspension. You have spherical bearings on both ends. These are designed to hold up to 600 horsepower and are excellent for a drag style car. These are made in the USA and feature 2" diameter tubing front to back. It'll do a great job at keeping the rear centered and putting the power to the ground.
The chassis side is what separates the extreme duty from the heavy duty, which is currently on the car that I installed years ago. The extreme duty ones are going to have a spherical bearing on the chassis side and have these polyurethane thrust washers. The thrust washer's going to install on here, basically, just to keep it from rolling side to side while the bearing's going to do a large majority of the work.
For this installation you will need a lift and a pole jack or a jack and jack stands, a 3/8" ratchet, 9/16" socket, 15mm socket, 18mm socket, a couple short extensions, 9/16" wrench, 17mm wrench, 18mm wrench, and a small pry bar.
Like I said, this car has a set of the Heavy Duty Arms that I installed years ago back when I used to own it. It actually held up really well. The Heavy Duty's are designed for up to about 400 horsepower. Truly this car is about 200 horsepower passed that, so we're definitely passed what these front bushings can take. In all the years they've been on here, the bushings only had to be replaced once, which is pretty impressive. It tells you how good the design of the Maximum Motorsports Arms really is.
I've had Maximum Arms on this car pretty much since the beginning. I had the straight ones back in the day, went to the perches a few years back, and today we're going to put the Extreme Duty Arms on it. If you look at the torque boxes of this car, they're actually still in really good shape. I contribute it a lot to the design of the Maximum Arms that doesn't put a ton of stress on the box like a lot of lift style bars actually would. While we're parked today, we are going to weld them up a little bit just to add a little more reinforcement since we're going to the Extreme Duty Arms.
We'll be removing the stock arms or aftermarket ones like we have here. The process is going to be the same. We're going to start by removing the rear sway bar. Once both sides are off, we're going to remove our sway bar. This car actually has no ABS for quite a few years, but if you do have ABS, usually the '94 through '98 still has it, this bracket here has to be modified. What you're going to do is remove the bolt from the center and flip it around 180 degrees up top, and then screw it back together. To remove the control arm from the car, there's going to be a nut and bolt in the back here on the axle side and the other one up on the chassis side. To get to the bolt though, it's on the inside here. As you can see, our muffler's in the way, so what we're going to do is disconnect it at the X-pipe that way we can move our muffler over a little bit to give us enough room to get to that hardware.
Now, we're going to support the control arm, so I can remove the bolt and lower it down. In our case, actually, we could have just gone underneath here and lowered the tension on our springs since ours are adjustable. More than likely, you're going to have a stock arm in your car or a stock straight arm without the adjustability, so this is the way you're going to do it. We're going to start with the rear bolts here. Now, we're going to slowly lower the arm, release tension from the spring. Now we're going to move on to the rear bolt and pull that down.
You see here, this is where the front of the control arm mounts on the chassis side. What we're going to do, since the factory mounts are just spot welded in, we're going to reinforce everything. We're going to weld along the edges here, down in here, up through here, and then across the bottom here into the torque box area just to stiffen up that area. If yours are excessively damaged, ripped, or torn already, there are repair kits out there on the market that can fix this problem. In the case of ours, I've had these Maximum Arms for years. The torque box is in amazingly good shape. Just going to reinforce it while we're here.
Now, we're going to prep the control arms for installation. They are side specific, so you want to make sure before you put them on the car, you want to make sure you have the correct side. The curved section here is going to be on the axle. Then, the flat section goes towards the front. This is going to be our passenger side arm. Before they can go on, you want to grease up the thrust washers and put them on the control arms themselves. You want to put grease on the inside, on the outside, and then also on the chassis before you put them on. I already put grease on the chassis itself. The same supply grease will work fine. Now we're ready to install our control arm. Reinstall the nut on the outside here, and just going to hand tighten for now.
While we have the suspension apart, we're going to replace our coil spring insulators as well for the rear springs. As you can see the original rubber ones, this is torn and this one here is just complete junk, so we're going to replace them with a good set from Prothane. We're going to lower insulator on our control arm an put the spring back up into place. Bring the control arm up. You want to make sure the rear coil of the spring is facing the back of the car. Now, you use your jack or your pole jack, put tension on the spring and put the control arm back up into place. Just going to close the rear wheel shift just a little bit. Get it somewhat wound up, then we're going to use a pry bar to pull it over. Now, we can reinstall the nut back here and relieve tension from the control arm.
We're going to tighten the hardware up. If you have a control arm with a polyurethane bushing front and back, you want to make sure you put some pressure on the suspension first, and then tighten them do so they don't bind. In the case of spherical bearings though, it doesn't matter. We can tighten them up as it is. Now, we're going to repeat the process on the other side. Both arms installed, now we can install the sway bar. You're going to use the factory bolts and the nuts provided by Maximum Motorsports. You're going to make sure you don't forget about the bracket for the E-Break cable, and then tighten everything down. We're going to put a little bit of grease in the adjusters here.
One of the really nice things about these Maximum Motorsports Arms is the adjustable height. In the case of this car, sometimes it's raced on drag radials, sometimes it's raced on a 28" slick, so it’s nice to actually raise and lower the back of the car for whichever tire happens to be on it. Adjusting it is very simple, you take a 1/2" ratchet, just put it in the bottom, turn it either clockwise or counter-clockwise to lower or raise the car. You can simply go counter-clockwise, like this, which will lower it. You can go clockwise, like this, will raise it up. You want to make sure since you're going to use these on a regular basis, do keep them greased all the time.
The Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty Lower Control Arm should be the perfect choice for our '96 Cobra. The adjustability and height will allow us to use different size tires. The spherical bearings front and back should really allow us to put the power to the ground with this car. The installation is pretty straight forward. Take you around an hour and a half to two hours, you'll be back on the road in no time.