Baer Front Brake Rotor Eradispeed-Plus 2-Piece 14" Pair GT/GT500 2007-2012/Boss 302 2012-2013

Baer Brakes:
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  • 2-Piece Rotors
  • Directionally Curved Vanes
  • Aluminum Hat For Lower Weight
  • Nas Stainless Hardware

Pair of 14" Baer Eradispeed-Plus 2-Piece Front Brake Rotors for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 GT500, 2012-2013 Boss 302 Mustangs and 2011-2014 GT Mustangs with the Optional Brembo Brakes.

EradiSpeed-PLUS rotors - The "plus" indicates rotors that are of a 2-Piece design. An EradiSpeed-PLUS hat is CNC machined from billet and anodized black. The hats and rotors are joined with NAS (National Aerospace Standard) hardware. The same hardware used in Indy cars. With a 2-Piece design, EradiSpeed-PLUS units provide a welcome reduction in total rotor weight of approximately 3 to 6 lbs. per rotor, depending on application.

Key Features and Benefits:
- 2-Piece rotors provide LITE* direct replacement for OE applications
- Increased mass in the "firepath" (where the pad contacts the rotor friction surface)
- Directionally, curved vane design
- Employs an aluminum hat to provide a lower total weight
- NAS stainless hardware
- Cross-drilled, slotted and zinc coated surfaces
*LITE is Baer's Trademark - Denotes "Low Inertia-Thermally Efficient".

Rotor Specs:
- Diameter: 14"
- Thickness: 1.250"
- Design: 2-piece
- Vented, Y/N: Y, Directionally curved vane
- Standard Finish: Slotted, Drilled and Zinc Plated

Order this Pair of 14" Baer Eradispeed-Plus 2-Piece Front Brake Rotors for your 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 or 2012 GT500, 2012 or 2013 Boss 302 Mustang or your 2011, 2012, 2013 or 2014 GT Mustang with the Optional Brembo Brakes from CJ Pony Parts today!

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

Hi, Bill from CJ's here for Customer Appreciation Day 2013. Today, we are going to do a live install on our 2011 Mustang GT. We are upgrading to a pair of these Baer EradiSpeed rotors for the rear and a matching two piece set for the front, along with this beautiful JLT cold air intake. I have the day off today, and RK, our tech, is going to handle the install.

We are going to start with the front rotors that are moving the caliper so we are going to access the back of the rotor to remove it. Since this is the same size as the factory rotor it is going to be a direct swap. Once you get the caliper off, there is a small retaining clip that you have to remove to be able to remove the factory rotor.

This is our new, two piece Eradispeed rotor. You usually put one of the lug nuts on, just to hold the rotor flat because it makes it easier to line up the caliper. That's really all there is to it. A simple swap out and the rotor is going to stop the car a lot better, and cosmetically, it is a lot better to look at as well.

Now we are going to move on to the rears. The rear is a little more involved because you have to remove the caliper first, and then remove the caliper bracket, so we can install the extension to put our larger rotors on. You will also need to compress the caliper which does require a special tool.

We will pull the caliper off and put it aside. We will put a little lubricant on the piston so that the seal doesn't get drug when you turn it in so it doesn't damage it. All it takes is a few turns to get it compressed properly. Now you are going to move the caliper bracket. Now that we have the caliper bracket off we are going to install the adapter from Baer. They are going to move our calipers outward allowing us to use the fourteen inch rotors.

Once you get the bracket in place, you'll want to torque it down before you install your new rotor. The rotors are side specific, so make sure you grab the correct one. The lug nut again helps hold the rotor until you can put the bracket back on with the caliper. Now I will put the pads back on the caliper bracket first and then we will reinstall our factory caliper, and our rear installation is finished. Now we are able to get the same size breaks all the way around without having to change the caliper. Installation as we showed you is pretty straight forward and now we are going to move on to our JLT intake.

Now that we have improved the breaking our next step is to improve the horsepower. We will pull up our factory intake and add this JLT cold air intake. If the car has strut powered brake you do have to remove it so you can remove the cover to get the tube off of the throttle body. We removed the factory sound tube and it is optional to keep it, but with the JLT you are not really going to need it. What it does with the factory air intake it funnels the noise inside the interior so you can hear it. The JLT pulls a lot more air, so you will not need that.

Once you remove the factory tube and the factory box you will want to remove the factory snorkel, as well. That will allow more air to get through the radiator and get up into your JLT. You want to transfer your sensor from your original air box over to your JLT before you install it.

Now we are going to install the heat shield that comes with the JLT intake. One end is going to mount to the stud where the air duct was, and the other one is going to mount to the fender where the factory air box bolts in.

Once you get the heat shield installed you are going to want to fit your JLT cold air kit. Now we are going to plug back in our mass air harness and make sure the harness stays underneath your radiator cover and now we can plug the line back in and installation is finished. Before you can drive your Mustang you do have to reflash it with the tuner due to the fact that we changed the size of the mass air housing. The JLTs are available in a black finish painted to match your car or carbon fiber for all 2011 through 2014 Mustangs.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

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