Edelbrock Fuel Pump 110 Gph Performer RPM 289/302/351W
Edelbrock:
1725
Highlights
- Polished Aluminum Finish
- Improves Fuel Flow
- Supports Up To 600HP
- Lower Housing Can Be Rotated
$177.95
Earn points.
Product Description
Edelbrock Performer RPM 110 gph Fuel Pump for 289/302/351W Mustangs.
Designed for use with all Edelbrock carburetors used in Performer or Performer RPM applications. These high performance street fuel pumps feature a high quality three stage polished finish. The unique valve design improves flow quantity and quality, and will support engines up to 600 hp. High-volume, 3/8" NPT inlet and outlet surpasses the capacity of conventional models. Produces 6 psi and does not require a regulator. Clockable lower housing can be rotated for best inlet/outlet alignment.
*For gasoline only.
*For gasoline only.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Related Categories: Mustang Parts, Mustang Engine, Mustang Fuel Pumps & Filters, Mustang Carbureted Fuel Pumps, Ford F-100 Parts
Installation & Fitment
Installation Videos
Video Transcript
Bill: The '68 Mustang Coupe that started it all here at CJ Pony Parts is in need of some basic repairs, and we're gonna use that as an opportunity to upgrade.
Our '68 Mustang Coupe was restored a long time ago and has an original style mechanical fuel pump on it. Not only is it stock 302 so that pump is more than adequate. We have plans of possibly upgrade that motor in the future so we're gonna take this advantage now to upgrade our fuel pump. We’re putting on this Edelbrock 110 gallon per hour fuel pump, which produces six PSI and features a clockable housing for the best possible fitment. This will not require regulator. It'll work fine with our stock horsepower, but it'll support up to 600 if we add more power down the road.
Tools needed for this installation: 1/4 inch ratchet, 1/4 inch socket, 9/16 socket, 3 inch extension, flat blade screwdriver, 1/2 inch wrench, and a pair of pliers.
Now on a typical fuel pump installation for your 289, 302, or 351 windsor, this pump's gonna fit. The installation can easily be done from the top of the engine bay. In our case, though, we have a factory air conditioning system. The compressor's in the way. So the only way to do it is from underneath. Unfortunately, I hurt my shoulder so Brendan here is gonna handle then installation and show you how to swap out that fuel pump.
Brendan: Okay, first step is to clamp the hose so fuel doesn't pour all the way out. What I did was I took a pair of needle nose pliers, put some tape on there so it doesn't damage the hose.
Okay, with a 1/4 inch socket we're gonna loosen up the worm clamp to remove the hose. Once you remove this hose, some fuel will be coming out so I have a drain pan handy.
Next we're gonna remove the pressure line of the hose. That's a 1/2 inch wrench. Once again, watch out. There will be some fuel coming out.
Before removing the bolts out of the fuel pump, it's nice to have the fuel line out of the way so it's easier to work around.
With a 9/16 socket, now you can remove the bolt off the fuel pump. Now when removing your fuel pump, be careful. Some oil will leak out. Before installing your new fuel pump, you're gonna have to scrape off the gasket off the timing cover.
As Bill stated in the beginning of the video, this housing is clockable to fit the right orientation of our OEM fuel lines.
As you can see, the orientation is just slightly off from the factory location. All we have to do is remove these screws, watch out for the spring that's under it, and just clock it.
Now hold on tightly to the housing so the spring doesn't shoot out.
Now that we have the right orientation, we can install the housing back on.
Now go back around, make sure all your bolts are tight, and you're ready to install it into the car. Now these fuel pumps are universal so you'll have to get the correct fittings for your fuel lines. It also comes with a new gasket and two new bolts to install the fuel pump.
I like to put a little bit of grease on right here where the metal touches the eccentric. So just nice lubrication. Also, I put a little bit of grease on here to hold onto the gasket.
Now we can install the fuel pump back into the timing cover.
Once your fuel pump is fully installed, now we can install your fittings.
Now the housing is aluminum so don't over tighten.
Now with the bigger fuel pump with our stock line, we have to slightly bend the line to make it fit into our new location.
So for the bottom, the inlet hose, we have to just trim off a little bit of the rubber hose. Then we can install it.
After you tighten up your clamp then your installation's finished.
Bill: Instead of simply replacing the stock pump, the Edelbrock pump's gonna give you a nice performance. Bumping as Brendan showed you, the installation's pretty straight foward. Figure about an hour to an hour and a half. You'll be back on the road in no time.
Our '68 Mustang Coupe was restored a long time ago and has an original style mechanical fuel pump on it. Not only is it stock 302 so that pump is more than adequate. We have plans of possibly upgrade that motor in the future so we're gonna take this advantage now to upgrade our fuel pump. We’re putting on this Edelbrock 110 gallon per hour fuel pump, which produces six PSI and features a clockable housing for the best possible fitment. This will not require regulator. It'll work fine with our stock horsepower, but it'll support up to 600 if we add more power down the road.
Tools needed for this installation: 1/4 inch ratchet, 1/4 inch socket, 9/16 socket, 3 inch extension, flat blade screwdriver, 1/2 inch wrench, and a pair of pliers.
Now on a typical fuel pump installation for your 289, 302, or 351 windsor, this pump's gonna fit. The installation can easily be done from the top of the engine bay. In our case, though, we have a factory air conditioning system. The compressor's in the way. So the only way to do it is from underneath. Unfortunately, I hurt my shoulder so Brendan here is gonna handle then installation and show you how to swap out that fuel pump.
Brendan: Okay, first step is to clamp the hose so fuel doesn't pour all the way out. What I did was I took a pair of needle nose pliers, put some tape on there so it doesn't damage the hose.
Okay, with a 1/4 inch socket we're gonna loosen up the worm clamp to remove the hose. Once you remove this hose, some fuel will be coming out so I have a drain pan handy.
Next we're gonna remove the pressure line of the hose. That's a 1/2 inch wrench. Once again, watch out. There will be some fuel coming out.
Before removing the bolts out of the fuel pump, it's nice to have the fuel line out of the way so it's easier to work around.
With a 9/16 socket, now you can remove the bolt off the fuel pump. Now when removing your fuel pump, be careful. Some oil will leak out. Before installing your new fuel pump, you're gonna have to scrape off the gasket off the timing cover.
As Bill stated in the beginning of the video, this housing is clockable to fit the right orientation of our OEM fuel lines.
As you can see, the orientation is just slightly off from the factory location. All we have to do is remove these screws, watch out for the spring that's under it, and just clock it.
Now hold on tightly to the housing so the spring doesn't shoot out.
Now that we have the right orientation, we can install the housing back on.
Now go back around, make sure all your bolts are tight, and you're ready to install it into the car. Now these fuel pumps are universal so you'll have to get the correct fittings for your fuel lines. It also comes with a new gasket and two new bolts to install the fuel pump.
I like to put a little bit of grease on right here where the metal touches the eccentric. So just nice lubrication. Also, I put a little bit of grease on here to hold onto the gasket.
Now we can install the fuel pump back into the timing cover.
Once your fuel pump is fully installed, now we can install your fittings.
Now the housing is aluminum so don't over tighten.
Now with the bigger fuel pump with our stock line, we have to slightly bend the line to make it fit into our new location.
So for the bottom, the inlet hose, we have to just trim off a little bit of the rubber hose. Then we can install it.
After you tighten up your clamp then your installation's finished.
Bill: Instead of simply replacing the stock pump, the Edelbrock pump's gonna give you a nice performance. Bumping as Brendan showed you, the installation's pretty straight foward. Figure about an hour to an hour and a half. You'll be back on the road in no time.
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