Ridetech Coilover Suspension Kit HQ Series Level 2 1967-1970
- Improves Ride Quality
- Improves Handling
- Minor Welding Required
Ridetech Level 2 HQ Series Coilover Suspension Kit for all 1967, 1968, 1969 and 1970 Mustangs.
The most common aftermarket project you can perform on your 1967-1970 Mustang is lowering it for performance driving. This Ridetech 12100201 Level 2 HQ Series Coilover Suspension Kit comes with everything you’ll need to complete your lowering protocol. Once applied this suspension upgrade will improve your overall handling and ride quality giving you the performance you’re looking for on the road or at the track.
- HQ Series Front Coil-Overs
- Lower StrongArms
- Upper StrongArms
- Front MuscleBar
- Spanner Wrench
- HQ Series Rear Coil-Overs
- Bolt-on 4 Link
Features and Benefits (Front Coil-Over):
- 2.60” Stroke HQ Series Shocks
- .500” ID Bearings
- 8” Long Coil Spring
- 700lbs Coil Spring Rate
- Delrin Bushings
- Aluminum Upper Mounting Plate
Features and Benefits (Lower Strong Arm):
- Adjustable Driver Side Lower Control Arm
- Adjustable Passenger Side Lower Control Arm
- Standard Lower Ball Joints
- Ball Joint Castle Nut Spacer
- Eccentric Eliminator
- Inner Bushing Sleeve
- Control Arm Pivot Bearing
- Bearing Housing
- Bearing Retaining Plate
- Aluminum Bearing Spacer
Features and Benefits (Upper Strong Arm):
- Adjustable Driver Side StrongArm
- Adjustable Passenger Side StrongArm
- Standard Upper Ball Joints
- Billet Aluminum Drop Cross Shafts
- Heim Ends: 3/4”-16 Thread x 5/8” ID
- Alignment Shims
Features and Benefits (Front MuscleBar):
- Front Sway Bar
- Pair of Frame Bushings
- Pair of Frame Brackets
- 3” PosiLink Spacers
- PosiLink T-Bushing
- 10mm 90 Degree PosiLink
- 10mm Straight PosiLink
- Tube of Lithium Grease
Features and Benefits (Rear Coil-Over):
- 5” Stroke HQ Series Shocks
- 1.70” Single Adjustable Eyelet
- .625” ID Bearings
- 12” Long Coil Spring
- 175lbs Coil Spring Rate
- Aluminum Spacer for Bearings
Features and Benefits (Bolt-on 4 Link):
- Upper Cradle
- Upper Control Arms
- Lower Control Arms
- Axle Plates
- Rear Coil-Over Mounts
- Weld-in Mounting Tabs
- All Necessary Mounting Hardware
Lowering a Mustang and upgrading the suspension to handle performance driving are two of the most common desires of Mustang owners looking at new suspension components. Check out the Mustang suspension kits and components from Ridetech, which feature air ride suspension kits that allow you to lower the suspension while initiating a much firmer ride, especially in performance situations.
Order this Ridetech 12100201 Level 2 HQ Series Coilover Suspension Kit for your 1967, 1968, 1969 or 1970 Mustang today from CJ Pony Parts.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Advanced skill is required for this installation.
So when we hit up Ride Tech for a suspension for 1967, not only did they send us a whole bunch of boxes, they sent us John here to tell us about these parts and help us install them. Now what did you bring today for our 1967 convertible?
John: When we first talked and you told me about the upgrade you made to the car, I felt that the best system for you guys was going to be the Bolt-In 4 Link Coil-Over kit. You're going to get upper and lower control arms, with improved geometry. The coil-over system. The 4-link cradle, with the upper and lower bars. I also upgraded you to the new R-joint rod ends.
All the bolt-in brackets, the hardware, the ball joints, everything you're going to need to swap this over.
Bill: And everything is bolt-in.
John: Complete bolt-in.
Bill: Nothing crazy. No cutting, no changing out anything?
John: No cutting. No cutting, only some minor welding on the rear end housing for the upper bars, but other than that it's all going to be bolt-in.
Bill: And what kind of adjustability does this suspension have, as far as spring [inaudible 00:01:00], shock struts, and obviously everything's included but what kind of adjustability do we have?
John: That's correct. In your coil-overs if you needed to change the spring rate based on your engine size, that's easy to do. We can actually swap those out before we send you the kit. In the rear you're going to have pinion angle adjustability.
The caster's going to be improved with the upper and lower control arms, ball joint angles optimize for a lower ride heighth. Ball joints are going to be included, and then we've also sent in the lower brackets for your 4-link, to keep the system bolt-in.
Bill: Now this is going to be '67 through '70?
John: That's correct.
Bill: Now is this kit, are there any limitations on the car. Does it have to have this brakes? Does it have to be a V8, or anything like that?
John: No. On this particular car where you have the factory spindles and factory drum brakes, you're not ready to make that upgrade yet. On this car with the 1967-1970 kit, it all bolts on.
Bill: Great. Let's get started with the installation.
For this installation either a lift or a jack in jack stance, any well stocked toolbox, with a good selection of wrenches, ratchets, and sockets.
So we've got the car off the ground, got the wheels and tires off. Now it's disassembly time. Now John here's going to handle the installation, me and Brendan are going to help him, but the first thing to do is remove our sway bar.
Now we're up in the engine bay, we're going to unbolt the shocks and we can start removing the suspension. And the next thing I'm going to do, is loosen up the export brace. Now we do have an after market one on this car, it will work with a new suspension. I'll have to drill some new holes in it but it is going to be usable. But for now, we're going to unbolt it to get it out of the way, making installation easier.
Now with the shock unbolted, what we're going to do here is lift up the whole suspension. So we take the weight off it and remove the shock mount.
John: To remove the bump stop bracket, we're going to remove to bolts on the inside of the engine cradle. This will allow that to come out and allow us to put the spring compressor on.
To compress the spring, we're going to drop the spring compressor in through the shock mount. Attach it to the spring, we'll use an impact to compress it. Okay now that we have the spring compressed, we're going to work on removing the control arm. Now there's two studs for the upper mount that go through the shock tower. We're going to remove the nut so we can remove the control arm.
Bill: With the control arm off, what we're going to do now is disconnect the ball joint from the tie rod end so we can disconnect our steering, then we'll remove the lower control arm and the strut rod, and that way we can remove the entire assembly as one.
Alright now we're going to decompress the spring just to get it out of the way.
What we're going to do now is take the spindle off the lower control arm, and we'll disconnect the brake line. So we're going to remove the whole assembly to put it out of the way. You actually could hang the spindle if you wanted to out of the way, but definitely for video purposes it will be easier for us to remove it so you can see what we're doing.
John: Right now we're going to go ahead and take the whole assembly off, lower control arm, upper control arm, having everything on a workbench where we can actually disassemble the spindle from the control arms themselves.
To remove the lower control arm, we're going to first remove the lower strut rod.
Bill: Alright now we're going to remove the bolt from the lower control arm and get the whole assembly out of the car.
John: Once you have your factory suspension removed, remove the inner sleeve from your lower strut rod assembly. Then use the bushing retainer as a template to drill your holes. Use a center punch to mark your three holes, and then drill out to three-eighths.
With the bearing retainer installed on both sides, we can tighten up the three-eighths cap screws.
With the lower bearing retainer installed, you can now install the lower control arm.
On the end of the strut rod, install your bearing spacer, the large washer, and the nylock nut.
With the lower control arm installed, install the lower extender plate so that the holes at the top on both sides. Make sure that both plates are facing the same direction. Run the bolt through, putting the nylock nut on the other side.
With the lower arm bolted on, we can now reinstall the factory spindle and brakes. Install your ball joint boot first, then put on the spacer, the washer, your castle nut and then follow that up with your cotter pin.
At this point we're going to go ahead and reconnect the outer tie rod end to the spindle, just to keep it in place while we put the upper control arm on.
With the spindle installed, and your steering linkage hooked back up it's time to install the upper arm. Slide the cross shaft into place, push your bolts through, and then with the vehicle up in the air like it is now it's easier to reach in from the bottom, put the washers and the nuts on from the back side.
Before we tighten up the upper control arm, make sure you have the shim in there. Then you can tighten everything down with an impact.
After all the suspension components are installed, make sure to reattach your brakes.
To install the upper shock mount, go underneath the fender and up through the upper shock mount. Spin the upper mount so that the holes align, hold your plate, make sure that the RideTech logo is facing out towards you. Drop it on the top and then install the three bolts.
Before installing the coil over in place, make sure that your lower spacers are intact, your spanner nut, your delrin washer, your spring, your upper washer, your retaining cap, and the cone are in place before installing them on the car. When you're installing the coil over into the upper mount, make sure that your lower delrin ball is in place. Once it has gone through the upper mount, the upper delrin ball will go on. Then your aluminum cap, and then your nut.
Before installing the bar, install the delrin sleeve. Install the rubber over top of the sleeve. Do that on both sides before placing it on the car.
With the sway bar in place, it's time to install the posi-link. Before putting the posi-link on the sway bar, sandwich the two bushings in between the hole on the lower bar. Drop in your posi-link, and slide it in the back hole on the upper control arm.
Bill: With the front suspension done we've moved onto the rear. Now, for the rear suspension you shouldn't have to pull the pump kit or anything out of the car. You have to remove obviously the leaf springs. If you have tail pipes they have to go as well, at least for now. You may have to get custom ones later. So the first thing we're going to do is unbolt the shocks and move on to the leaf springs.
We're going to remove the rear shocks, the bolt for the shock is up underneath your back seat. You'll definitely want to hold it from underneath while you remove it.
John: Before we get around to installing the cradle itself, there are a few things we need to get out of the way. One being the fuel line, the other being the pinion snubber. Since this car has an aftermarket exhaust, we want to mock up the cradle to make sure things like exhaust hangers aren't going to be in the way before we get around finally installing it.
Now that we've got all the brackets and everything out of the way, we want to test fit the cradle to make sure we don't have interference anywhere else.
So now with the cradle securely installed in place, what we want to do is we want to go through and mark all of our holes where our U-bolts and our thread forming bolts are going to go. This will allow us to take the cradle out, drill the holes and install the U-bolts and then secure the cradle to the bottom of the car.
For a little added corrosion protection, we're going to touch up all of our drill holes and our marks with some paint. With the paint touched up we can install the U-bolts and then begin installing the cradle.
With the cradle mounted securely in place, we're going to go ahead and drill up the six front mounting holes with a five-sixteenth drill bit to mount the thread-forming bolts.
Once your cradle's securely in place, you can attach the lower bar bracket to the axle housing. Use the supplied hardware to do this.
With the lower bar bracket secured to the rear end housing, you can install your lower shock mount.
Put a little blue Loctite on the shock stud itself before threading it into the bracket.
Your lower four-link bar will mount in your factory leaf spring location using the bushing supplied in the kit. The hardware threads through the frame rail in through both bushings and out the other side.
With the lower bar installed in the rear axle mount, you can install the bolt through the two spaces. Mount the lower bar.
Once your holes have been drilled in the front of the four-link cradle, you can install the self-threading screws.
When you receive the kit from us direct, the upper bars will already be pre-measured out for you. To keep from welding these in and melting the delrin cage in the R-joint, we supply this tool to make the measurements correct. Set the tool length to the length of the upper bar. Tighten the bolts. You'll use this tool to weld in the upper bar.
Now that the length has been determined using the upper bar we sent you, mock this into place using the hardware provided. Take your axle tabs, set those up so that you have three and a half inches from the center of the bolt to the axle center line, then recheck your fitment. As you can tell on this particular bracket, we're going to need to trim a little bit to get a nice fit. We'll make sure that that's clearanced out to fit the axle too before we weld it on.
With the tabs welded on both sides, it's now okay to install both upper four-link bars. On all of your coil overs, make sure that your rebound setting is in the middle. This usually requires turning the knob all the way to the right and then backing it counter-clockwise 12 clicks.
With the vehicle on the ground, set your preload. To do this, tighten your spinner nut to the right until your desired ride height is achieved.
Bill: So John, thanks for coming out here and walking us through that installation. Obviously it's a time-consuming installation but from what you tell me it's going to be worth it. What can we expect this car to drive like, handle like now that we have that suspension on?
John: It's going to drive and perform like a modern mustang would. Between the drive train that you've got, the suspension, the wheels and tires, you can expect performance that would be equivalent to a 2017, 2018 Mustang.
Bill: And what would you think time-wise for your amateur backyard mechanic to do this installation? We talked about it's bolt on-
Bill: Little bit of welding obviously involved, but overall what would you think time-wise?
John: A good solid three-day weekend would do you-
John: Make sure you get it aligned afterwards, obviously. Unless you have that equipment at your house, that's going to be something you're going to seek out professional help to do.
Bill: Basically like he said, it's going to be a long weekend, take your time, follow this video for the basics. You'll be back on the road in no time.