Fuel Filler Neck Tube Seal Mustang 1981-1997
- OEM-Style Reproduction
- High Quality Rubber
- Seals Against Dirt And Debris
- Direct-Fit Replacement
Fuel Filler Neck Tube Seal for 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996 and 1997 Mustangs.
This is a direct replacement part for the stock fuel filler neck tube seal in your 1981-1997 Mustang. This is the black rubber seal that seals where the filler neck goes into the fuel tank.
Features and Benefits:
- Fits 1981-1997 Ford Mustangs
- Factory Style Replacement
- Stock Style Rubber
This is a factory style replacement Fuel Filler Neck Tube Seal for 1981-1997 Mustangs. This installs in the factory location, using stock style rubber that is designed to prevent fuel from leaking where the filler neck enters the fuel tank.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
So today, we're going to show you how to replace this seal using our 2001 Mustang Bullitt. The filler pipe seal gets installed in the side of your gas tank and the filler pipe is installed through it to create a tight seal where fuel can't escape.
For this installation, you'll need a jack and jack stands or a lift and pull jack, a 3/8th ratchet or a 3/8th impact gun, 8mm socket, 13mm socket, 6 inch extension and safety glasses.
You'll need to get your Mustang up in the air so you can access the fuel tank. It does have to be removed to install a new filler pipe seal. It's also a good idea to make sure you have as little fuel as possible in the tank. It will make a it lot easier if it's not spilling, and on the same token, gas is around 6 pounds per gallon. If you have a full tank, it's going to be a lot heavier to pull your tank out of the car.
Here, you can see a typical original seal. Ours is actually torn all the way around the top edge. You'll see the fuels wet all around the bottom here as well, so it's obviously been leaking. Our first step is to remove the bolt for the retainer for the filler pipe.
Now, I'm going to support the tank while we remove the bolts that hold the straps to the body. The tank is held in place by two straps. On this car, we have a bolt in the back here and a second one on the front on the passenger side strap. The driver-side strap has a hinge in the back, so it's a single bolt up front and then it will just swing down.
Before we pull the tank down, I want to disconnect the fuel pump harness. Then, I can start lowering our tank down. Now, we have it down a little bit. We'll slide the fuel line off the metal tab. Now, the same thing on the driver side. Okay now, the fuel line is clear. We can continue lowering our tank. In order to shimmy the fuel tank off of fuel filler hose itself. If you're working on the ground, it's not that big of a deal since you're close to the ground. If you're up in the air, it's better to get somebody to help you to hold the tank as you pull it off.
We're going to carefully removed what's left of our original seal. See, ours is broken in half which is why we're getting our fuel leak. I'm just going to clean up the area around the hole where the new seal is going to go. We're going to spray some non-silicone lubricant on the new seal to make it go and place a little bit easier.
Then, I'll carefully work it in to place, making sure not to press too hard. You don't want to damage the seal. Make sure the opening is nice and round once it's installed so you know it's a fitting flush like it's supposed to, both the inside and the outside. And we're ready to put the tank back up into the car.
Now get the tank back up, start by lowering down the driver side. Got it. Now, we'll re-install the clips to hold the fuel lines to the tank. We'll reinstall the bolts for the straps. We can reconnect the harness. And then the last step is the retainer for the filler pipe and installation is finished.
For less than a half of what you would spend for a tank of gas, you can fix that annoying fuel tank leak by fixing your fuel pipe seal. Installation should only take you around an hour, so you'll be back on the road in no time.