McLeod Clutch Kit RXT Street Twin Disc GT 2011-2017
McLeod:
6932-25
Highlights
- Tap To View 3D Model
- Rated Up To 1,000 Horsepower
- RXT Twin Disc Clutch Kit
- Lighter Than Stock Pedal Feel
MSRP $1,193.75
$955.00 You save 20%
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Product Description
McLeod Twin Disc RXT Street Clutch Kit for all 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 GT Mustangs.
Whether you’ve got a supercharger, turbo or just bolt-ons, it’s important to ensure that your clutch can effectively handle the extra power that your Coyote is putting out. That’s why McLeod introduced their Twin Disc RXT Street Clutch Kit made specifically for your 2011-2017 GT Mustang. With a horsepower rating of up to 1,000 horsepower to the crank, you know that your drivetrain will be able to handle any extra power thrown at it. The best part about this particular clutch kit is that McLeod designed it to be a streetable clutch as well.
Features and Benefits:
- Horsepower Rating Up To 1,000 Horsepower
- Perfect for Street Use and Occasional Track Use
- Low Rotating Mass for Better Power Transfer
- Does Not Require Dedicated Flywheel
- Lighter-Than-Stock Clutch Pedal Feel
- Slightly Aggressive Engagement
- Double Disc Ground Floater Reduces Noise
Application:
- 11” Clutch
- 1” Diameter Input Shaft
- 23 Spline Input Shaft
- Ceramic Disc Material
Kit Includes:
- Pressure Plate
- Two Organic Friction Discs
- Floater Plate
- Adapter Ring
- Pilot Tool
- Detailed Instructions
This ceramic face clutch kit provides a slightly aggressive grab with a smooth engagement complimented with a lighter-than-stock clutch pedal feel. These excellent release qualities make this clutch the perfect choice for a street and occasional strip car.
If you’re the kind of Mustang owner who enjoys pushing your Mustang to the limit both on the street and on the track, then this Clutch Kit is the perfect choice for you. It gives the driver the best of both worlds when it comes to reliability when you need it at high RPMs and an easy clutch pedal feel for driving in traffic.
*A flywheel is not included. You can reuse your existing flywheel, but be sure to have your flywheel resurfaced if needed.
McLeod supplies Mustang owners with everything they could need, from clutch kits, pressure plates, hydraulic clutch conversion kits and much more. If you are a Mustang owner looking for a piece of replacement or upgrade equipment for your Mustang, look no further than the inventory of McLeod Racing products available at CJ Pony Parts.
Order a McLeod Twin Disc RXT Street Clutch Kit for your 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 or 2017 GT Mustang from CJ Pony Parts today!
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Related Categories: Mustang Parts, Mustang Transmission, Mustang Clutch Kits
Installation & Fitment
Installation Videos
Video Transcript
We do a lot of 2015 Mustang videos, but one video we didn't plan on doing anytime soon was going to be a clutch replacement. We figure clutch is a part you're not going to replace immediately on your brand new car, but sometimes plans do change. In our case the customer who owns this 2015 Mustang drove all the way from Houston, Texas for this year's Carlisle show. Found out the 850 horsepower this Hennessy's putting out is a bit too much for a stock clutch. Today we're going to show you how to replace the clutch using this 2015 Hennessy GT.
This Hennessy GT is making 743 at the rear tire so in my opinion there was only one clutch option, that's the McLeod RXT. The beauty of the RXT, it's a twin disk clutch. It uses two clutch disks that have ceramic composite material on them, give you power handling up to 1,000 horsepower, gives you a real factory style pedal. This high quality McLeod clutch is made in the USA and is a work of art just sitting on our table. Remove the pressure plate and kind of show you how it works.
You're going to have two disks and then a floater plate in the middle. This is our single disk here and the other one is going to go underneath here. This will bolt to our flywheel. The twin disk set up, like I said, the benefit is it's going to have a stock feel. When this car is finished and you drive it, it's going to feel like it has a stock clutch. It's not going to feel real heavy like a lot of high performance clutches will. Again, it will handle up to 1,000 horsepower. While we're at it we're going to upgrade to a McLeod aluminum flywheel, a set of ARP flywheel bolts and this stainless steel clutch line from Steeda.
The owner of this Mustang is anxious to get back to Houston so I'm going to have RK jump in and give me a hand with the installation. I'm going to show you the basics of how to swap out the clutch. He's going to start by disconnecting the battery. I'm going to jump inside and remove the shifter. Simply twist the knob off. Now we're moving under the car. We're going to remove the drive shaft. First we're going to remove the exhaust. It's so easy to take of the 15. It will give us more room for the drive shaft.
RK is loosening the rear bracket for the drive shaft. I'm going to disconnect from the transmission.
Now we're going to remove the partial driver's side and the entire passenger side cat pipe to give us more room. The bolts for the right side cat pipe plug are easier to get from under the hood. Now with the pipe out of the way we're going to take the starter off next and start working on the bell housing bolts.
RK's going to pull of the oxygen sensors and I'm going to start with the bell housing bolts. Transmission's supported. We can remove the bolts for the cross member. Make sure before you try and pull the trans down, disconnect any wire harnesses that are attached to it that aren't coming with it. Then we're going to remove the 10mm bolt that holds the front of the shifter onto the transmission. Once you remove the bar then you can actually pull the shifter down and out of the way. It will come out with the transmission.
Before you can pull the trans down and get the rest of the bell housing bolts off, we're going to remove the clutch fluid line. It's held in place by a little clip. You pop the clip out and remove the line. Now we can carefully pry and separate the transmission from the engine. The trans out, now I'm going to take the clutch bolts out. With the clutch off, now we can pull off the flywheel so we can replace that with the McLeod aluminum.
While we're in here we're going to remove our factory rubber clutch line, replace it with a stainless steel line from Steeda. This is an excellent upgrade even for a stock Mustang. With a high performance clutch and high performance car like this, this is an excellent upgrade overall. We already disconnected the clutch line on the transmission side and we removed it. The lineup here on the engine bay, this little metal clip right here. What you just want to do is get a small pick underneath it, pop that clip off and remove the line.
Put the clip back in, just pop it in place. Now we can move under the car. We already hammered the supply valves into place on the McLeod flywheels, so we're ready to put it up on the car. Make sure you get all the bolt holes lined up. There are a couple of spots that will look like it's right, but it isn't. Bolt one just to hold it in place now and prep all the bolts for installation. On each bolt you install you want to grab some 242 thread locker, put some on the threads, then take some of this supplied assembly lubricant from ARP and put this on the base, basically the head of the bolt.
Give that a little thread locker on each bolt before you install it. We'll get all the bolts tight and then we're going to snug this 70 foot pounds of torque. Before we can torque them down you have to actually hold the engine from spinning. There's a couple ways to do it. You can install some clutch bolts and kind of do it with a pry bar. Since I have help RK's actually going to hold the crank pulley. That way I can tighten them back here.
When you torque these down you want to go in a star pattern. Go up and keep going across like this. Don't just work your way around the outside. Now grab the floater plate. Make sure you grab the disk labeled bottom. Grab your alignment tool, make sure that is facing the flywheel side and we'll put this up into place. Use the supplied hardware to connect the floater plate to our flywheel.
For now just get them snug before we torque this back. Now we're going to torque these bolts down. The factory torque spec for the flywheel is going to be 35 foot pound plus a 60 degree turn. A lot of people aren't going to be able to do. Look at the specs on this actual ARP bolt and it's 54 foot pound which we checked, is just about the exact same. At this point you want to spin this to make sure the disk moves freely and doesn't bind up anywhere. If it doesn't move, there's an issue. Want to take it back apart, make sure you're doing everything right. If you did, contact McLeod. They can help you out with that.
Now we can install the pressure plate and top disk. In addition to the floater straps make sure this line painted here also lines up. Make sure the alignment tool goes all the way through both disks into your pilot bushing or it's not going to line up when the transmission goes back in. Once everything is lined up we install the washers, lock nuts and nuts.
We're going to start by tightening them again in a star pattern to 25 foot pound. You may want to check at this point to see if the fingers of the diaphragm are below this outside edge here. They're right on it so now we're going to torque same pattern to 35 foot pound. Make sure you've got proper clearance. Okay, we're good. It's almost a shame to cover up something so pretty, but now it's time to remove the alignment tool, put the transmission back up into place.
Once you have the trans seated properly and reinstall the transmission bolts, push it up into place, install the cross member, the starter and everything else we removed. One thing about getting the transmission back into place, don't force it. Whatever you do, you don't want to try to use the bolts to draw it in. If it doesn't line up properly, pull the trans back out, put the alignment tool back in, loosen the clutch, make sure it's aligned properly. Once you have it right it will go in pretty easily.
Make sure you don't have any major kinks in your clutch line. You can tie it up out of the way with one of the supplied zip ties. We're going to bleed the clutch next and before I do it we're going to top off the fluid because we did lose some when we removed our factory clutch line. Once you get everything back together, bleeding the clutch is as simple as just pressing it a whole bunch of times til you start getting a clutch pedal. The first couple of times you have to actually pull it back up with your foot, but eventually it will spring back up.
When I say a whole bunch of times, it could literally take you about 100 pumps till you start getting your pedal back. In our case since we changed the line we did lose some fluid. Once everything's good, now we can reinstall our shifter. Don't forget to lock in the reverse mechanism. We'll check everything. We'll reinstall the front panel and finally, last step, reinstall the shift knob.
Installation is finished. You're ready to take it for a test drive. The first thing you'll notice when driving a car with the McLeod RXT installed is the pedal feel. It is every bit as light as the stock clutch. In the case of this car, the clutch was pretty jacked up when it came in, so the clutch real, real heavy. This is light. It feels just like driving my car with e stock clutch in. You couldn't tell it's a non-stock clutch. There is a possibility you might get a little bit of chatter during break in. That's perfectly normal. It will go away after probably about 100 miles.
Speaking of which, I'd love to sample what this car can actually do, but with any new clutch like this you definitely want to give it at least 100 miles if not a little bit more of break in, specifically stop and go traffic before you really get on it. The pedal feels beautiful. Like I said, it's hard to describe. It's amazing, if you come from a cable clutch kind of thing where you're used to okay, you want something that takes a lot of power, it's going to be a heavy, heavy leg. Not with the twin disk. Knowing I have clutch in this car that will hold 1,000 horsepower, it feels soft enough. It's like a freaking focus clutch. It's unbelievable. As you're driving during break in, go through the gears, shift more than you probably normally would because the more shifts you get and quicker you get the miles on it, the more you can actually let it rip.
The installation overall isn't too bad. If you've ever done a clutch in an older style Mustang, there's no reason you can't help doing one on a brand new car like our 2015 here. You'll need basic hand tools, a lift would definitely be easier, but you can do it on jack and jack stands as long as you have an extra jack to hold the transmission up. Maybe entire installation, I'd say give yourself at least six to eight hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.
This Hennessy GT is making 743 at the rear tire so in my opinion there was only one clutch option, that's the McLeod RXT. The beauty of the RXT, it's a twin disk clutch. It uses two clutch disks that have ceramic composite material on them, give you power handling up to 1,000 horsepower, gives you a real factory style pedal. This high quality McLeod clutch is made in the USA and is a work of art just sitting on our table. Remove the pressure plate and kind of show you how it works.
You're going to have two disks and then a floater plate in the middle. This is our single disk here and the other one is going to go underneath here. This will bolt to our flywheel. The twin disk set up, like I said, the benefit is it's going to have a stock feel. When this car is finished and you drive it, it's going to feel like it has a stock clutch. It's not going to feel real heavy like a lot of high performance clutches will. Again, it will handle up to 1,000 horsepower. While we're at it we're going to upgrade to a McLeod aluminum flywheel, a set of ARP flywheel bolts and this stainless steel clutch line from Steeda.
The owner of this Mustang is anxious to get back to Houston so I'm going to have RK jump in and give me a hand with the installation. I'm going to show you the basics of how to swap out the clutch. He's going to start by disconnecting the battery. I'm going to jump inside and remove the shifter. Simply twist the knob off. Now we're moving under the car. We're going to remove the drive shaft. First we're going to remove the exhaust. It's so easy to take of the 15. It will give us more room for the drive shaft.
RK is loosening the rear bracket for the drive shaft. I'm going to disconnect from the transmission.
Now we're going to remove the partial driver's side and the entire passenger side cat pipe to give us more room. The bolts for the right side cat pipe plug are easier to get from under the hood. Now with the pipe out of the way we're going to take the starter off next and start working on the bell housing bolts.
RK's going to pull of the oxygen sensors and I'm going to start with the bell housing bolts. Transmission's supported. We can remove the bolts for the cross member. Make sure before you try and pull the trans down, disconnect any wire harnesses that are attached to it that aren't coming with it. Then we're going to remove the 10mm bolt that holds the front of the shifter onto the transmission. Once you remove the bar then you can actually pull the shifter down and out of the way. It will come out with the transmission.
Before you can pull the trans down and get the rest of the bell housing bolts off, we're going to remove the clutch fluid line. It's held in place by a little clip. You pop the clip out and remove the line. Now we can carefully pry and separate the transmission from the engine. The trans out, now I'm going to take the clutch bolts out. With the clutch off, now we can pull off the flywheel so we can replace that with the McLeod aluminum.
While we're in here we're going to remove our factory rubber clutch line, replace it with a stainless steel line from Steeda. This is an excellent upgrade even for a stock Mustang. With a high performance clutch and high performance car like this, this is an excellent upgrade overall. We already disconnected the clutch line on the transmission side and we removed it. The lineup here on the engine bay, this little metal clip right here. What you just want to do is get a small pick underneath it, pop that clip off and remove the line.
Put the clip back in, just pop it in place. Now we can move under the car. We already hammered the supply valves into place on the McLeod flywheels, so we're ready to put it up on the car. Make sure you get all the bolt holes lined up. There are a couple of spots that will look like it's right, but it isn't. Bolt one just to hold it in place now and prep all the bolts for installation. On each bolt you install you want to grab some 242 thread locker, put some on the threads, then take some of this supplied assembly lubricant from ARP and put this on the base, basically the head of the bolt.
Give that a little thread locker on each bolt before you install it. We'll get all the bolts tight and then we're going to snug this 70 foot pounds of torque. Before we can torque them down you have to actually hold the engine from spinning. There's a couple ways to do it. You can install some clutch bolts and kind of do it with a pry bar. Since I have help RK's actually going to hold the crank pulley. That way I can tighten them back here.
When you torque these down you want to go in a star pattern. Go up and keep going across like this. Don't just work your way around the outside. Now grab the floater plate. Make sure you grab the disk labeled bottom. Grab your alignment tool, make sure that is facing the flywheel side and we'll put this up into place. Use the supplied hardware to connect the floater plate to our flywheel.
For now just get them snug before we torque this back. Now we're going to torque these bolts down. The factory torque spec for the flywheel is going to be 35 foot pound plus a 60 degree turn. A lot of people aren't going to be able to do. Look at the specs on this actual ARP bolt and it's 54 foot pound which we checked, is just about the exact same. At this point you want to spin this to make sure the disk moves freely and doesn't bind up anywhere. If it doesn't move, there's an issue. Want to take it back apart, make sure you're doing everything right. If you did, contact McLeod. They can help you out with that.
Now we can install the pressure plate and top disk. In addition to the floater straps make sure this line painted here also lines up. Make sure the alignment tool goes all the way through both disks into your pilot bushing or it's not going to line up when the transmission goes back in. Once everything is lined up we install the washers, lock nuts and nuts.
We're going to start by tightening them again in a star pattern to 25 foot pound. You may want to check at this point to see if the fingers of the diaphragm are below this outside edge here. They're right on it so now we're going to torque same pattern to 35 foot pound. Make sure you've got proper clearance. Okay, we're good. It's almost a shame to cover up something so pretty, but now it's time to remove the alignment tool, put the transmission back up into place.
Once you have the trans seated properly and reinstall the transmission bolts, push it up into place, install the cross member, the starter and everything else we removed. One thing about getting the transmission back into place, don't force it. Whatever you do, you don't want to try to use the bolts to draw it in. If it doesn't line up properly, pull the trans back out, put the alignment tool back in, loosen the clutch, make sure it's aligned properly. Once you have it right it will go in pretty easily.
Make sure you don't have any major kinks in your clutch line. You can tie it up out of the way with one of the supplied zip ties. We're going to bleed the clutch next and before I do it we're going to top off the fluid because we did lose some when we removed our factory clutch line. Once you get everything back together, bleeding the clutch is as simple as just pressing it a whole bunch of times til you start getting a clutch pedal. The first couple of times you have to actually pull it back up with your foot, but eventually it will spring back up.
When I say a whole bunch of times, it could literally take you about 100 pumps till you start getting your pedal back. In our case since we changed the line we did lose some fluid. Once everything's good, now we can reinstall our shifter. Don't forget to lock in the reverse mechanism. We'll check everything. We'll reinstall the front panel and finally, last step, reinstall the shift knob.
Installation is finished. You're ready to take it for a test drive. The first thing you'll notice when driving a car with the McLeod RXT installed is the pedal feel. It is every bit as light as the stock clutch. In the case of this car, the clutch was pretty jacked up when it came in, so the clutch real, real heavy. This is light. It feels just like driving my car with e stock clutch in. You couldn't tell it's a non-stock clutch. There is a possibility you might get a little bit of chatter during break in. That's perfectly normal. It will go away after probably about 100 miles.
Speaking of which, I'd love to sample what this car can actually do, but with any new clutch like this you definitely want to give it at least 100 miles if not a little bit more of break in, specifically stop and go traffic before you really get on it. The pedal feels beautiful. Like I said, it's hard to describe. It's amazing, if you come from a cable clutch kind of thing where you're used to okay, you want something that takes a lot of power, it's going to be a heavy, heavy leg. Not with the twin disk. Knowing I have clutch in this car that will hold 1,000 horsepower, it feels soft enough. It's like a freaking focus clutch. It's unbelievable. As you're driving during break in, go through the gears, shift more than you probably normally would because the more shifts you get and quicker you get the miles on it, the more you can actually let it rip.
The installation overall isn't too bad. If you've ever done a clutch in an older style Mustang, there's no reason you can't help doing one on a brand new car like our 2015 here. You'll need basic hand tools, a lift would definitely be easier, but you can do it on jack and jack stands as long as you have an extra jack to hold the transmission up. Maybe entire installation, I'd say give yourself at least six to eight hours. You'll be back on the road in no time.
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