UPR Anti-Roll Bar Pro Series Chrome Moly Kit Mustang 1979-2004



  • Chrome Moly Construction
  • Eliminates Body Roll
  • 1-1/4" Solid Bar
  • Unplated Finish

UPR Chrome Moly Pro Series Anti-Roll Bar Kit for 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Mustangs.

Are you looking to improve the drag racing experience in your 1979-2004 Mustang? If so, CJ Pony Parts has something to give you peace of mind and improve every pass you take down the track. This Anti-Roll Bar (2000-03) is the Pro Series and comes in a Chrome Moly finish. UPR is the manufacturer of this product so you can be sure that quality and fitment will be on point.

Features and Benefits:
- Chrome Moly Finish
- Eliminates Body Roll And Stabilizes The Car
- Can Be Installed With Any Type Of Tail Pipe
- 1-1/4" Solid Bar
- Roller Bearing Ends
- Bar Comes Un-Plated
- TIG Welded In Billet Steel Fixtures
- Includes Mounting Hardware

If you do any drag racing at all, you probably know that body roll and stabilization are important. Safety is one of the biggest concerns in this activity, which is why the team at UPR developed this anti-roll bar kit. This Anti Roll Bar features roller bearings and solid 1-1/4" bar to ensure the smoothest reacting kit on the market. Another bonus of this kit is that it comes partially finished so that it can be installed around the tailpipes. Un-welded anti-roll bar arms mean that you can set the perfect location for your exhaust. The anit-roll bar ends are fully adjustable from left to right inside the 25" area.  

Additional Notes:
- Welding is required to complete the installation of this kit.
- This anti-roll bar is designed for drag racing only. The links must be disconnected while driving on the street to prevent damage.
- Does not work on cars with IRS.

California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning

Installation Difficulty


Advanced skill is required for this installation.

Installation Videos

Video Transcript

If we're going to rounds in the NMRA's ultra-competitive factory stock class with our project Krimpstang, we're going to have to spend a lot of time on the suspension. Since we're running a Coyote engine, there's very limited modification allowed to the engine, so a lot of the race is going to be won/loss by the suspension on the car. When it came to suspension, my first choice was UPR. If you go to any NMRA event, you'll see a lot of UPR stickers on the fastest cars, and the class winners as well. So far, I've had their tubular K-member in the front, along with their A-arms, their adjustable lowers, adjustable uppers, and spherical bearings. Today, I'm going to finish it off with their chrome molly pro series anti roll bar.

The anti-roll bar is basically going to control the rear suspension, and keep the car launching straight and true. You ever see pictures of cars launching, you'll always notice that the left front wheel, the driver’s side, tends to come up a lot higher than the passenger’s side. What's happening, is the car is actually twisting on launch, which is very common. What the anti-roll bar's going to do, is going to keep that from happening, and make both wheels come up evenly, and make the car go nice and straight off the line.

For this installation, we're going to need a lift, or a jack and jack stands, 3/8 ratchet, 9/16 socket, 9/16 wrench, a pair of panel holding vice grips, grinder, welder, and safety glasses.

The anti-roll bar is going to mount above the rear axle, on the frame, pretty much as far forward as we can get it. What I'm going to is take these brackets, and we're going to mark up, roughly, where they're going to go, so we can grind the paint away, because this will require welding for installation. Over on the driver’s side, we have plenty of room, but on the passenger’s side, this vapor line's going to be in the way, so we're going to move it, give us more room to work.

When you grab the brackets, make sure you grab the correct one, they are labeled as P for passenger, and then D for driver. What we're going to do here, pull this out, put it up on the frame, all the way as high as we can, and right against the pinch weld. That's the area we're going to grind. If you can, get some help, we're just going to hold it up into place here. We're actually not done grinding just yet. The bar's going to hang down like that, and the other link is going to connect to the axle tubes, as well, so we're going to line that up, and also grind that off while we have the grinder out.

What you'll want to do, is once you have everything ground clean, you want to put the bar up into place, and start actually fitting it. You want it as high as possible on the frame rail, and as far forward as possible. What you want to do, put it right up against that pinch weld. That's the best place to get it flat. Once you have it clamped in place, what you also have to do is make sure it is straight, and also even with the floor. You want to measure here and here, and also measure from this edge to the bolt head, make sure everything is even before you start welding. 3 inches on the nose, on that side, exact same on this side.

With the bar clamped in place, and everything clean, we're ready to start welding. What you want to do, is just tack one side to begin with. Make sure the bar still moves freely, before we move on to the other side. With both sides tacked in, you want to make sure the bar moves freely. You don't want any binding, or anything like that. The bar is nice and loose, so we can finish our welding. The only thing I want to mention, when you are welding this, you want to do a small section at a time. There's some high quality, sealed bearings inside here, you don't want to overheat the metal, and damage the bearing.

Be careful with the welding, you don't have to go crazy and go all the way around it, because if you do, you have no chance of ever taking this out of the car. What we're going to do, is do the bottom here, and up the side, then just do a couple additional little tacks, which will be plenty strong.

Now, we can grab the end links. You want to put some anti seize on here, make sure you have 4 threads visible top and bottom, and we're going to bolt it to the bar. Now, what we're going to do, is put our mounting tabs on the bottom. Make sure the link is straight, also make sure the bar is centered. These are going to get tacked, right there on the rear. Hopefully, we have the tabs tacked in. Again, double check, make sure you have play, everything moves like it should, this isn't going to bind up. Then, you can finish welding the tabs. Now, we're just going to pop this off, so we have room to weld.

Since we ground everything down to bare metal, we are going to hit some prime and some paint on it, before we put everything back together. Now, we're going to reinstall our hardware, and tighten everything down. You're installation's finished.

Now that the bar is welded, and everything is bolted in, you're probably wondering about the setup of the bar. The setup is going to be very important. There's 2 different thought processes with setting up a roll bar, either with or without some kind of pre-load on it. UPR prefers to pre-load to be in the control arm, and not the bars. What we're going to do to set this up, we're going to put the car on the ground. It's got to be on a flat surface. You want it with the wheels and tires you're going to be racing with, and you want the driver in the driver’s seat, so that the car's 100% at race weight. What you're going to do, is remove the passenger’s side link, and then you're going to adjust ii so that it has tons of play, and basically like it is now. You want it to have 0 pre-load, so it moves freely. Once you have that done, the bar's set up, and you're ready to go.

If you're serious about drag racing your 1979-2004 Mustang, an anti-roll bar, this UPR one, is a must have to keep the car straight, and keep your times consistent. The installation is not terribly hard, but you will be very careful with the measurements, and it does require welding, so it's not for an amateur, but figure about 2-3 hours, and you're back on the road in no time.

Vehicle Fitment

This product will fit the following Mustang years:

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