Ford Performance Control Pack 4V 5.0L Coyote Mustang Manual Transmission 2015-2017
- PCM With Calibration
- Electronic Accelerator Pedal
- Power Distribution Module
- For 2015-2017 5.0L 4V Motors
Ford Performance Control Pack for use with the 2015, 2016 and 2017 4V 5.0L Coyote Crate Engines with a Manual Transmission Engine Harness.
If you’ve picked up a second-generation Coyote Crate Engine from Ford Performance, you’re going to need the Control Pack to complete your installation! That’s where Ford Performance steps in yet again with their Control Pack (M-6017-504V) designed specifically for use with the 2015-2017 5.0L 4V 435 HP Coyote Crate Engine.
Features and Benefits:
- Controls Second Generation Coyote
- OEM Quality Parts
- Includes PCM With Calibration
- For Manual Transmissions
This control pack will work on either an automatic or manual transmission. If your transmission is an automatic it must not have a PCM to control the transmission. This control pack has everything needed to run the 2015-2017 Coyote engine. The accelerator pedal is electric eliminating the throttle cable, preventing it from getting damaged under the engine bay. This wiring harness also includes an OBD-II port allowing you to diagnose the problems that might occur when finished with your project.
This Kit Includes:
- PCM with Ford Racing Calibration
- Electronic Throttle Control Accelerator Pedal
- OBD-II Diagnostic Port to Assist in Vehicle Calibration Upload and Problem Diagnosis
- Power Distribution Module
- Air Box
- Inlet Tube
- MAF Sensor with Bolts
- HEGO Sensors
- This Ford Performance Control Pack will only work on 2015-2017 5.0L 4V Coyote Mustang Crate Engines with a Manual Transmission Engine Harness, this kit is NOT designed to be used with builds that involve a computer controlled automatic transmission.
- PCM with Ford Performance calibration requires return type fuel system, will not work with return less fuel system.
- Installation of this PCM in a 2015-2017 Mustang GT will result in a no-start condition.
California Residents: Proposition 65 Warning
Intermediate skill is required for this installation.
The control pack shown here is for the 2015. What we're going to do is show you this control pack, how it works, and then show you some of the wiring on the car. Even though it's the older pack the process is still the same. In case you're not familiar the point of the control pack from Ford Performance is to give you everything you need to get the Coyote running no matter what your car you're putting in. As long as you have a return style fuel system and a 155 Liter power pump and 55 PSI of pressure, this will get you the parts you need to make the engine run. Includes all the quarter intake parts from the factory setup, all necessary wiring, along with a computer throttle oxygen sensors, switches, and even radio hoses.
This is the factory quarter intake kit off the 2015 through 2017 Mustang GT and it's included in the control pack kit. Depending on your application you may or may not be able to use all of these components but you're definitely going to use some of them and one in particular, that is the mass air sensor. Whether you're running the factory air box or aftermarket intake this is the most important part of these piece because you will need this to make the car run properly.
The kit includes two oxygen sensors which will have to be used to make the car run properly. An original throttle pedal off the 2015 because it is a throttle by wire system so your normal style throttle's not going to work. They also include a PCV hose along with your original style radiator hoses. Now again you may not be able to use all of these components. The sensors absolutely have to be used. Again the same for the throttle. As far as these hoses go this one more likely you will use but you might go with a little separator or different style set up. The radiator hoses for my personal car I find a top hose will fit with a factory style 96 radiator. The bottom hose does fit as well. All you have to do is cut in the middle and extend it to get it to work.
With the Krimpstang having a roll bar and fixed down racing seats getting up under the dash to show you a lot of the connections is simply not going to happen with a camera. What we did instead is we brought a Coyote engine here, this is a 2015 engine, and this is the entire control pack laid out. What we're going to do is show you all the connections step by step and then show you a few of them actually on the car when we're finished.
This is the engine harness that's included on your Coyote crate engine. This is already plugged in ready to go. What we're going to do with a large one here is plug it into the computer, lock it down with the gray receiver and the other plug here plugs to the main inline on the harness. You need to take the main harness from the control pack and that goes into the other side of the PCM here. Get that and lock it down. I should mention the PCM is going to mount under the hood. That's where it mounts on the factory 2015 through 2017. It's perfectly fine to do that with this as well. As far as the wiring that's included in the control pack that'll make it the easiest way to get everything connected.
Now we're going to work our way across the harness and explain what all these fittings are. Depending on your application a lot of these you may not even use. If it's a race car you're going to skip a lot of them. If it's a full street car with all accessories then you'll need to use every plug here. We'll start with this extension harness here. You have your AC clutch and AC pressure plugs. If you're not running air conditioning these get skipped. If you are running an air conditioning system these are what control the AC and allow the computer to know you're using it. The other two things on here, you have your starter lead and you have a wire for your cooling fan.
Next step is going to be the fuse and relay box. Again same setup you're going to find in a brand new Mustang. All your fuses are then going to be right here. Then out of here you go to the power harness and then Ford provides all the power wire you need to connect everything to make it run. Your main power and grounder here and now that they include everything you need everything is pre terminated making for a much easier instillation.
This is going to be your other under hood harness here. This is going to be your mass air sensor which again plugs into that sensor I showed you on a cold air kit in the initial part. This will be your alternator, this will plug right into a factory 11 and up style alternator. If you're running a different alternator you'll have to cut the plug but if you do run that style it's a plug and play installation.
The last one here is for your inner cooler pump. Now the only reason you're going to use this if you installed Rousch Ford Racing Supercharger that has a factory inner cooler pump you would use this to power that pump. If you're not running a supercharger this will be a plug that does not get used.
Now moving onto the dash, this plug here is going to plug into the included throttle pedal assembly. Just lock that on. These are the rest of the connections for underneath the dash. Then you see with a GD number like this is a ground so if it gets grounded to bare metal. These are your clutch switch assemblies. What these are going to do is make sure the clutch is engaged for the car to start. These aren't connected and these don't plunge in properly the car won't start. That's a safety feature to make sure you start the car in gear. Just like you'd find in a modern car.
The last under dash plug is your OBD2 port. This is where you're going to plug in your OBD2 scanner, your tuner, anything like that. Again this is something that would be found in a new car under the dash. You want to mount this under the dash somewhere easily accessible so if you had to scan the car or tune the car it's easy to get to.
Up until this point everything I showed you is going to be plug and play using basically factory Ford Connectors or simple power and ground hook ups using ring terminals. There's nothing really fancy there. This though this is the trickiest part of the installation only because this is where you're getting all the signals that the computer needs to do its job. This looks a little intimidating at first. What you want to do is start by taking out the plugs that we're not using for our application or for most applications.
That's going to be this one here, these are the can bus wires, we're not going to use those right now. This is auxiliary we don't need. There's auxiliary 1, auxiliary 3 we push down the side. There's another auxiliary plug we don't need that right now. These again are for future accessories, they're not needed when you install the system to get the car running.
Okay, what we have left here these are what we're actually going to need to connect. What I'll do is I'll go through each one of these one at a time and explain what they do and what you're going to connect them to. We'll start with the basics which are going to be these 3 here. If you've ever hooked up a car stereo these will be very simple to you. Hot B, this is constant 12 volt power so this has to go a 12 volt direct 12 volt source. Key on is going to be switched power. Again just like a car stereo you have a constant and a switched. The black is going to be our chassis ground. Those three again pretty simple, something you should be able to handle if you've ever done a basic installation of lighting, car stereos, anything like that. These are going to be three simple connections.
We'll push them aside and then we'll go through the rest of the wires here. AC request, again this is a wire you're only going to use this if you have an AC system. This is going to be a 12 volt source basically letting the air conditioning ... Letting the car know the air conditioning is turning on so we can compensate with oil and everything else. These four we'll actually leave these for the end.
This is your MIL light, this is going to go out to the included check engine light on your dash just like on a modern car with a check engine light. This includes a lamp, this goes to that, runs 12 volts to that light in case there's an issue with the computer. All right now the last three these are the ones you need to basically get the car running. These are going to be the important wires. Fuel pump relay amp, this is going to connect to a positive lead on your fuel pump. What this is going to do is this will turn your pump on when the computer receives power.
Now this is going to go again to a positive lead on the pump. When the key is on the pump will run all the time. I know on some cars you turn the key and hear the pump cycle on and off and then it shuts off. Not in this case. When you turn the key on ... Anytime the key is on this is going to make sure the pump turns on. Again we tapped this into Krimpstang, I'll show you where it made the connection to give you an idea where you want to look for that plug if you're working on a say 1994 to 2004 car.
Last two are going to be the ignition triggers. Basically one is an ignition and one is a starter request. Now the difference here, what these are going to do, these are going to tap into two wires at your ignition switch. You need an ignition switch 12 volt source that not only turns on when the key goes forward but also stays 12 volts when the car is cranking or the car won't crank. Again I'll get a little more detailed about these two wires because these are the two that are the most common problem people are installing this system.
We'll go back to the ignition trigger here, the light green wire. This has to be hooked up to 12 volts that get a constant 12 volt source though when the car is cranking in a run position. A lot of times when you crank the car the 12 volt source is shut off, that won't work. You have to find that hot wire in your ignition column that is on when the car is in start mode and when it's actually cranking. If you have any issues with the car shutting off after launches or anything like that this is usually the wire that's causing a problem. It's imperative to get this one on the correct plug.
The light blue is kind of the same idea but not the same. This just needs to get starter mode request so this needs to have connected to a point where you get 12 volts when the engine start is asked. When the car goes to start motor this has to have 12 volts. Not necessarily when the run, just when it goes to start to make sure the starter motor engages.
Again this one you need for start and run, this one start only. Here's how I connect to the green wire. I'm not saying this is the right way to do it, the only way to do it, this is the way I did it because it works fine for what I'm choosing to do with my car. I tapped into the 12 volts going to my inertia switch. By doing that it actually makes the inertia switch still work so if the car would get into an accident it's going to shut the fuel pump off. This basically goes through there and then out to power my fuel pump.
I'm going to say, this is the 2014 older style set up on my car but the basic connections are all going to be the same. You'll see here this is the main harness going to the engine. That's a single plug there then that goes there. Here's our orange wire going over to power our fan. The one thing you want to make sure you're specific with this car when your running this kind of control pack, you're installing it, make sure you have good grounds. In a couple of cases I used factory grounds, other cases I ground down to bare metal and make a good ground. If you're going to have an issue with it grounds can cause problems. There are quite a few grounds on this system so make sure your grounds are done properly. It'll make it go a lot easier.
Once you have all the connections made what you'll want to do then is go in the car, turn the key into the run position. You should hear the fuel pump turn right on just like I said. The fuel pump is going to be constant. Anytime that key is on the fuel pump is going to be on. Now start the car up.
When you have the control pack laid out it might be intimidating but you really look at it it's not that bad to do. I mean all these connections here are plug and play. You got a couple grounds to make, a couple power to connect. The only real wires you're going to work on are these here and there's only six connections you have to make to get the car running. Overall it's not as bad as it looks and takes your time. It's something most people should be able to handle on their own.
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This product will fit the following Mustang years: